Wild and Free-Spirited Assateague – Maryland's and Virginia’s Barrier Island
Table of Contents
Story and photos by Roxie LaFever (unless otherwise indicated)
Assateague Island National Seashore
Is it time to get away from the rest of the World…to unplug, reboot? Somewhere quiet and pristine where you can walk for hours on empty beaches alongside wild horses….and yet oceanside to see where the whales and other sea life migrate?
Then this is the place – a barrier island, also known as the National Seashore at Assateague. Since it is a national park, check out this website for the latest information regarding fees and COVID requirements: Fees & Passes – Assateague Island National Seashore (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov). Then bring your relaxed attitude and commune with nature in this little bit of heaven.
Also, check the weather forecasts before coming as temperatures can range in a cold month like January to an average low of 44 degrees Fahrenheit to a high of 79 degrees. But then, in a warm month like July or August, it will range from a low of 50 degrees to a high of 100 degrees. Make sure to layer up to accommodate temperature swings of 40 to 50 degrees in a single day.
Map of Assateague in Eastern Maryland and Virginia
A barrier island is a stretch of land or beach that stands between the Atlantic Ocean and, in this case, the States of Maryland and Virginia. The top two-thirds (northern part) are technically in Maryland, and the lower third in Virginia. While primarily uninhabited, the National Parks Service manages these lands, including a national seashore, state park, wildlife refuge, and the home to a large group of feral horses. The sands have shifted due to the tides, and this 37-mile stretch is now on its own.
Chincoteague
Chincoteague is a neighboring island to the South, which used to be a barrier until Assateague descended and shielded it from the Atlantic Ocean in the mid-1800s. In 1650, the first land grant was issued for Chincoteague, and settlement began in 1671. By 1838, there were 36 houses and several farms on the island. A settlement had also slowly begun on Assateague until a 1962 nor’easter storm changed their plans. All structures on Assateague were destroyed, and the town on Chincoteague was completely underwater and without electricity for several days. While Chincoteague was rebuilt and, as of the 2010 census, was home to about 3,000 people, the Assateague Island is preserved as government land.
Things To Do Around Assateague
So many things to do – all of it tied to nature:
- Swimming with the pristine ocean waters
- Snorkeling to get a better view of marine life
- Surfing is also possible in these waters
- Setting up Camp for a Night or Weekend
- Testing your Outdoor Cooking Skills
- Hiking the beach – all 37 miles
- Seeing how many wild horses you can find
- Just relaxing on the beach and feeling daily stresses unwind
Camping on Assateague Island
While camping is available on the barrier island, it is not for the faint of heart! I love this notice from the National Park Service on their site. In other words, experienced campers only like to be “off the grid.”
Camping at Assateague will be a pleasant experience if you plan ahead! The barrier island habitat can be harsh if you are not prepared. Camping is available only in the Maryland district of Assateague Island. Campers are reminded to bring firewood (locally purchased), sunscreen, insect repellent, screen tents for shade and insect protection, and long tent stakes to anchor tents in the sand and wind.
There is a gift shop on the island and a small restaurant for food. It is quite a distance from the campground, so drive and park in the lot before heading out.
And you can also spend the night at a nice hotel – say in Ocean City, Maryland, which isn’t far away!
Mind the Signs / Rules
When approaching the beaches, note all the signs for the latest information. Essential information to be aware of includes:
- Weather Updates – Do not risk being caught in a thunderstorm
- Rip Current Warnings – Ocean swimming is not the same as Pools, and There is No Lifeguard
- How to Report a Whale Sighting – Migration is tracked
- How to Cohabitate and Share the Beach with Wild Horses – They always have the Right of Way
- What Items are Prohibited Beach Side – No Glass, No Littering, etc.
- No Pets on the Beach – Other Species Live There in Peace
One of the reasons this beach is so beautiful is because the rules are followed – and the beach is monitored.
Do not let all the signs and warnings scare you away; it is only because few people are around to “watch over you,” so signs are the best way to create awareness.
The Assateague Wild Horses, aka Chincoteague Ponies
While the island is beautiful for many activities in its natural landscape, it is known primarily for the feral ponies that have lived here for decades. Legend is that the original horses descend from horses aboard a Spanish Galleon that sank off the east coast in 1750, but then again, they may just be descended from domestic stock allowed to roam since the 17th century. Either way, they still roam free, protected by the government.
The herd’s integrity and size are managed annually with an event called the “Pony Penning.” On the last Wednesday of July each year, the herd is rounded up and escorted across the shallow waters from Assateague to Chincoteague. Pregnant mares, little ones, or weak ones are ferried over by barge. This event draws thousands of spectators watching as the ponies cross the waters and are herded down Main Street to large pens. The Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department auctions yearlings or new foals on Thursday, and the rest of the herd return to Assateague the next day.
It is estimated that there are 150 ponies on the Virginia side and 80 on the Maryland side. Those returned after the roundup may also be treated with contraceptives to prevent overpopulation further. New blood has been introduced through the years to minimize inbreeding. Blood types introduced included Wild Mustangs, Arabian, and Shetland ponies.
There is a book entitled “Misty of Chincoteague” by Marguerite Henry that is recommended for children. Misty was later purchased by Ms. Henry and hopefully lived happily ever after.
The Loss of Pivot
On a sad note, our visit coincided with the passing of Pivot, as noted by the warning sign while walking on the beach. Breaking News Alerts also encouraged all to stay away as the 30-ton whale’s remains were being removed.
Pivot was a 15-year-old female humpback known to researchers and trackers all along the East Coast. How did she get that great name? Evidently – by those who got close enough to see – she was recognizable by a geometric compass shape on her right fluke. Compasses “pivot” while drawing an arc.
First identified in 2008, she has often been seen in the Gulf of Maine and is believed to follow the typical migratory paths along the coast from Maine to the Caribbean, where they breed. No one knows why she became stranded this time, leading to her death at Assateague, but samples have been taken so that researchers can determine any causes other than natural death. Let us hope this is an isolated event.
It took two days, heavy equipment, and many members of the park staff to move Pivot to a place where she could naturally revert to nature’s elements over time. May she rest in peace.
May All Run Wild and Free
Assateague is a beautiful place – standing still in time – where all can run wild and free. Perhaps your family needs to take an off-grid break and get away from day-to-day stresses. A barrier island like this is about as far as you can roam without crossing a closed border. Enjoy the pristine beauty!!
Based in the Washington, DC metropolitan area, Roxie LaFever likes her town but knows she needs to explore the world and search out her own truth. Without creating even an “unofficial bucket list,” she’s been to all 7 continents, seen all 7 Wonders of the World and over 40 countries. With each trip – she tries to identify a way to step out of her comfort zone – and grow. Whether she’s jumping off a mountain in Rio to hang-glide down to the beach, exploring the world’s largest waterfalls by ultra-lite or zodiac, hiking at high altitudes in Bhutan and Peru, or doing the “Walk of Faith” on the world’s longest glass bridge in China, you’ll want to travel along. In addition to freelance travel writing and photography, Roxie manages a lifestyle and travel blog at www.RoamingwithRoxie.com.