Exploring Coastal Maine – On Land and Sea
Table of Contents
Stories and photos by Roxie LaFever (unless otherwise indicated)
Coastal Maine is stunning!
The openness, the grassy knolls, and the wildflowers that pop up between rocky edges and heavily populated forests. As you travel down the coast, be prepared to ooh and ahh at each turn, often stopping to take scenic photos and breath in the fresh sea-salt air.
This trip is truly breathtaking for those closed in all year and easily driven by car. With over 2200 islands off the coast with quaint sailing villages and lighthouses dotting the inland and island shores, the possibilities are endless. But we’ll give you a few ideas to get you started.
Our base for exploring the shores of coastal Maine will be Rockland, Maine. As a sister community with Camden, just 11 miles up the coast, this is a perfect town to get your bearings and plan your outings.
The locals are friendly, and the shops offer all you need (from forgotten clothes to take home memories). Discover a superb new boutique hotel that welcomes you each night with a glass of wine or beverage of your choosing amid an inviting atmosphere overlooking the harbor.
Rockland – Home Port Activities
Build time into your schedule to explore Rockland both day and night. During the day, explore Main Street shops, the harbor, and the Farnsworth Museum. The Farnsworth, endowed by one of the town’s early merchants, showcases local and historical artists and exhibits like “Women of Vision.” Check out the museum at https://www.farnsworthmuseum.org/. The Farnsworth includes several buildings, with the main entrance easily accessible just off Main on a side street.
At night, visit the local restaurants and pubs (See Where to Eat). And suppose you want to catch a game. In that case, two blocks off Main Street, find the Historic Railroad Depot, now known as Trackside Station, offering wholesome bar food and drinks, screens for multiple games, and friendly bartenders and others cheering for local favorites – no matter the sport.
Camden – The Port Next Door
Camden offers more Main Street shopping, and one store to check out is the Planet Toy Store, which is like a trip down memory lane. See what I mean by checking out their Facebook page, Planet Toys. Turn left when at the intersection of town to walk down to the harbor to see all the sailboats.
Captain Doug and First Mate Burke from Camden Harbor Cruises will show you the sights from the water while telling lighthouses stories and checking the lobster traps. Do you know how to measure the size of a lobster to see whether it should be thrown back? Or how to reset the trap and the right bait to use to attract lobsters? Or that some are right-handed and others left-handed? Not just anyone can catch lobsters – licenses are required. Fun getting to know these two and hearing their stories! See https://www.camdenharborcruises.com/ for more information.
Take time to drive or hike the trails at Camden Hills Park just north of Camden for the best views of Camden and be sure to climb the World War I Memorial Tower at the top. With more than 25 miles of trails – see map link – it’s a great way to get your exercise in.
Wind Jamming Amongst the Islands
The Maine Windjammer fleet departs from both the Rockland and Camden ports. Stepping on board a Windjammer offers you an all-inclusive adventure on the water. Lodging, food, island excursions, and the opportunity to quickly bond with the crew and fellow travelers alike. Check out Maine Windjammer Sailing Cruises: All-Inclusive Sailing Vacations: MWA (sailmainecoast.com) to view all nine vessels and trips that range from 4 to 7 nights aboard. Choose a theme from many offerings during the season, including culinary delights, historical sailings, wine tastings, festivals, or fall colors.
On the first sailing of its 150th year, we joined the Schooner Stephen Taber for a 4-day sail. The Stephen Taber has been owned and operated by the Barnes Family for the last 42 years. With no motor, this is sailing the way your ancestors did it.
Directed by the winds, Captain Barnes and his crew, assisted by passenger volunteers, hoisted the sails, hand-cranked the anchor, and let the sails billow. With more than 2200 islands off the coast of Maine, we never knew where a shore excursion would lead us. Small villages, semi-private islands, and historical sites all awaited.
Onboard, we all quickly bonded with the crew and each other. Chef Randy and his Sous-chef Erica start each day at 4:30 a.m. by lighting the wood-burning stove housed in a galley smaller than most bathrooms. Every hidden nook and cranny on a ship is for storage, and it was a delight to watch this team pull together four days of gourmet meals, including freshly baked bread, homemade soups and stews, fresh seafood, charcuterie, grilled steaks, and chicken kabobs. And to experience fresh-caught lobsters cooked in saltwater that were the best we’ve ever tasted. The Stephen Taber also provided a wine selection each evening to compliment the palette and meal. We had a passenger dedicated fridge/locker to store our BYO beer, soft drinks, and liqueurs if you want something stronger.
The evenings brought a variety of entertainment. Captain Barnes and his son Oscar both love string instruments – a guitar and ukulele. Guests could make requests and sing along to country, bluegrass, and classic rock. One of the passengers, Michael, is the rehearsal pianist for the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater in New York. Michael classically serenaded all while anchored in a secluded harbor with a keyboard placed across two deck chairs.
Cards and a highly competitive game of 4-way chess was also played. Be forewarned that the Captain’s son Oscar, at age 12, can hold his own against the adult chess players. But all was in fun, and the final two players called it a draw.
Whether you step onboard the Stephen Taber (celebrating 150 years) or its sister ship, the LaDona (a 1922 racing yacht), or one of seven other vessels reservable through the Maine Windjammer Association, this is the ultimate way to sail the coast of Maine.
Take A Road Trip Down the Peninsula to Port Clyde
Exploring the countryside by taking a road trip is a way to find hidden treasures. Heading down the St. George Peninsula to Port Clyde – a small coastal town we heard was lovely – proved to offer many surprises. Whether it’s a covered bridge, an old, abandoned train station including the freight cars, or the lighthouse from the Forrest Gump movie, explore and see what you stumble upon.
Remember that scene in the movie when Forrest Gump starts running and doesn’t stop till he finally reaches the end, which happens to be a lighthouse in Maine. The real name of this historic spot is Marshall Point Lighthouse, and it was built in the 1880s and marked the entrance to St. George Bay and the Port Clyde Harbor. Enjoy the view, explore the Keeper’s House, and walk the grounds. Details are available at Marshall Point Lighthouse & Museum.
Port Clyde is a quaint coastal town that also serves as the port for three daily ferry rides to Monhegan Island; even more remote as a rocky square mile island where hiking, food, small BNBs, and a peaceful vibe are offered three times daily for a 3-hour turnaround.
Do not miss the Port Clyde General Store to grab a meal, browse for road trip necessities, and purchase old-time products that are only available in a store like this. They also have a quaint bar and a wonderful deck area where you can sit and enjoy the waters over a brewski or two. Enjoy the people here – they are salt-of-the-earth types.
Where to Stay in Coastal Maine
Newly opened, and that promised boutique hotel mentioned as “your home away from home,” is the 250 Main Hotel. With just 26 rooms, they cater to meeting your needs, and exhausted travelers are greeting with a complimentary drink (even prosecco) each night when returning from their explorations. While the lobby has that open floorplan appeal for meeting others, the rooftop also offers a fantastic view of the harbor as you await the colorful sunsets.
Our room also offered a private balcony overlooking Main Street and the harbor to enjoy your morning coffee, smelling the aroma from the bakery next door. Breakfast is included and conveniently packaged to go if needed. If you need a book to read, a couple of the floors even offer reading libraries.
Where to Eat in Coastal Maine
While cruising on a Windjammer, the chef will prepare you three gourmet meals a day, so no need to elaborate further other than to say the Lobster Dinner where they boiled 40 lobsters for 20 guests was “over the top” delicious!
But, no worries, the food onshore is excellent too! Looking for fresh seafood, try the Rockland Cafe for “all you can eat seafood!” Or the best lobster roll I have ever tasted, from Claws. And try the truffle fries, too!
Peter Ott’s in Camden offers excellent food with both indoor and outdoor seating with the harbor view. And if on your way down to Port Clyde, take a side trip over to Glidden Point Oysters to shuck the freshest catch around and down them with blueberry wine or another local treat.
And Take Time to Truly Enjoy the Sunsets
Don’t forget to take time and enjoy the sunsets each evening, with a drink of wine, from land or sea. The Maine sunsets last up to 30 minutes, and the colors change and bounce off both the water and clouds. What a great way to take a moment and be thankful for all that life offers.
Based in the Washington, DC metropolitan area, Roxie LaFever likes her town but knows she needs to explore the world and search out her own truth. Without creating even an “unofficial bucket list,” she’s been to all 7 continents, seen all 7 Wonders of the World and over 40 countries. With each trip – she tries to identify a way to step out of her comfort zone – and grow. Whether she’s jumping off a mountain in Rio to hang-glide down to the beach, exploring the world’s largest waterfalls by ultra-lite or zodiac, hiking at high altitudes in Bhutan and Peru, or doing the “Walk of Faith” on the world’s longest glass bridge in China, you’ll want to travel along. In addition to freelance travel writing and photography, Roxie manages a lifestyle and travel blog at www.RoamingwithRoxie.com.