Kos, Greece: Sun, Surf, and History in the Dodecanese Islands
Table of Contents
Story and photos by June Russell-Chamberlin
Kos isn’t as famous on Instagram as Santorini or Mykonos, or even as well-known as Rhodes. But that’s an advantage when vacationing on a Greek Island. Kos — both the island and the town share the name — offers sun-drenched beaches, clear cerulean waters, traditional Greek cuisine, and a dash of history, all without the crowds of the more popular islands.
Getting There and Getting Around
Most visitors arrive on the island of Kos one of two ways: by airplane or ferry. Flights from Athens and other European airports are frequent during the tourist season. Taxis and rental cars are readily available, or you can hop on the bus to Kos town (buy a ticket from the driver). It’s about a 20-minute drive or a 40-minute bus ride.
If you prefer a ferry, check the Blue Star Ferries line timetables. It runs from Piraeus (Athens) to Kos town almost daily during the summer. Ferries also sail between Kos, Rhodes, Bodrum (Turkey), and neighboring Dodecanese islands.
Once you’re in Kos town, most sites and tourist attractions are within walking distance of the harbor. Dedicated bike lanes and flat terrain make bicycling a popular way to get around, and rental companies for bikes, cars, and mopeds are plentiful near the harbor. If you’d rather let someone else drive, city and island buses can take you farther afield.
Learn How the Romans Lived at Casa Romana
Kos offers a variety of things to do, from exploring local ruins, visiting nearby islands, and soaking up the sun on sandy beaches.
Casa Romana, an excavated and minimally restored Roman villa in Kos town, showcases the home of a wealthy Roman official. Built in the late 2nd century A.D. and altered in the early 3rd century A.D., the unfurnished villa sprawls over 36 rooms and three atriums. Displays of artifacts and interpretive signs explain domestic life in Roman times, from cooking and washing clothes to entertaining guests. The villa still bears original mosaics and traces of wall frescoes.
Visit an Ancient Center for Healing at the Asklepion of Kos
Massive staircases and temple ruins hint at the lost grandeur of the Asklepion of Kos. Named for the god of healing, the medical center was famous in the ancient world for spiritual and physical healing. Built along three terraces carved from the side of a forested mountain, the Asklepion also served as a medical school based on the teachings of Hippocrates. The site is 2.5 miles beyond Kos town. If you don’t have a car, the mini train has a route that will take you to the Asklepion.
Day trip to the island of Symi
Photographers and shoppers alike won’t want to miss a day trip to Symi, where pastel Venetian mansions with delicate balconies and red tile roofs crowd the slopes above the harbor. Shops fill the waterfront and narrow winding streets, offering everything from clothing and souvenirs to leather goods and local products. The island is just an hour and 20 minutes from Kos town by Dodekanisos Seaways ferry. When you’ve had your fill of shopping, walk up to the Pontikokastro for panoramic views.
Shop for Island Specialties
Sweet pickled carrots, sponges, and other Greek specialties fill the small Market Hall in Old Town Kos. Now fully air-conditioned, the market is a fascinating place to pick up fruits, nuts, and other goodies for snacks or culinary souvenirs. Built by the Italians in 1934, the Market Hall is located near the Ancient Agora and the Archaeological Museum of Kos.
Tour the Ancient Agora
Once the center of Roman public life, the Ancient Agora provides a tantalizing glimpse of the former glory of Roman-era Kos. Chunks of fluted and carved marble columns, blocks, and capitals litter one area, while remnants of walls and mosaic floors hint at other structures. A few signs help interpret what you’re seeing. There’s little shade, so plan your visit for the cooler times of the day.
Hit the Beach
About a mile northwest of the Kos town harbor is a pebbly beach (bring water shoes) with everything you need for a perfectly relaxing beach day: Sunbeds, umbrellas, restrooms, and beach bars that serve icy cold drinks and snacks. Walk or bicycle to Artemis Heaven Beach Bar or Lambi Beach and take a dip in the sparkling Aegean Sea. Sunbeds are included with food and drink purchases.
Explore the castles of the Knights of St. John
More than 500 years after it was built, Neratzia Castle still stands at the harbor entrance to Kos. Also known as the castle of the Knights of St. John (the Knights Hospitallers), the crusaders’ stronghold is a fixture along the waterfront and an exciting place to explore. Be sure to look for the carved stone coat of arms of the Grand Masters of the Knights Hospitallers. If you have a car, visit the wild ruins of the Castle of Antimachia, near the airport and the town of Antimachia. Just watch out for goats on the road!
Catch a summer performance at the Odeon
Romans loved their entertainment, and for Kos that meant a 750-seat enclosed theater less than a mile from the harbor. Known as an odeon, it was designed for musical performances in the 2nd century. Today the Roman Odeon has lost its roof, but not its appeal. The Odeon hosts events and cultural performances throughout the summer. When not in use, the ancient site is open to the public. Don’t miss the tunnels underneath the seats.
Stay in Kos
Hotel Astron in Kos
Harbor views, a large pool, and family-sized rooms make Hotel Astron a favorite choice for travelers to Old Town Kos. Guests can lounge at the pool, watch the kids play in the children’s pool, or walk to shops, Neratzia Castle, and tavernas. Amenities include a restaurant, bar and free parking.
Albergo Gelsomino Hotel
The seaside Albergo Gelsomino Hotel has been a Kos icon since it opened in 1928. The restored hotel blends elegant architecture with chic design in signature black and white. Amenities abound and include a beach, restaurant, bar, room service, bike rentals, and airport shuttle. The location is ideal for exploring Old Town Kos and its many restaurants, shops, and historical sites.
Hotel Afendoulis
Greek hospitality shines at this family-owned hotel on a quiet side street. The cheerful assistance you’ll receive with taxi rides to the ferry or whatever else you need makes Hotel Afendoulis stand out. A 15-minute walk from the harbor, the family- and pet-friendly hotel also offers a 24-hour front desk, free parking, and baggage storage.
Eat in Kos
Kos is full of family-owned restaurants serving traditional Greek cuisine, as well as European and Mediterranean dishes. A few restaurants quickly became our family’s favorites.
Pizza Bar
We arrived in Kos after traveling for what felt like a day and a half, so we dumped the luggage on the floor and went in search of comfort food. We found it at the Pizza Bar on the waterfront, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that serves wood-fired pizza by the slice, along with beer and wine. There’s no indoor seating, but you can grab a table under the big tree and watch the parade of Instagrammers posing with the I Heart Kos sign.
Broadway Restaurant
A local woman recommended Broadway Restaurant for its chef-driven, creative dishes that fuse Greek and world cuisines. It quickly became our first choice for dinner. Fresh, local ingredients fill a menu that ranges from cheeseburgers to prawns beurre blanc with orzo. More than once our group fought over the last meatball with melitzanosalata, port sauce, and berries. You’ll find this remarkable and unpretentious restaurant on a side street near the ancient Roman gymnasium, about a 5-minute walk from the harbor.
Platinum Cafe
We had the good luck to discover the Platinum Cafe at 26 Kolokotroni Street, and it became our go-to spot for morning coffee and a hearty breakfast before exploring the town. The cafe offers an extensive menu of both American and Greek fare. The proprietor always greeted us with the warmth of an old friend and answered our many questions about the town. In the late afternoon, we’d drop by again, hot and tired, for iced coffee and milkshakes. The cafe is in the heart of Old Town Kos, about a 5-minute walk from the harbor.
Final thoughts
Great food is just one part of a relaxing Greek island vacation. Add intriguing ruins, a walkable town, sunny beaches, and that incredible cobalt Aegean Sea, and Kos may become your new favorite escape.
June Russell-Chamberlin is an Oregon-based travel writer and photographer with an unquenchable curiosity and a love of adventure. A journalist for more than 25 years, you’ll find her traveling off-the-beaten path in the Pacific Northwest and around the world. She writes about sailing, hiking, history, culture, food, wine, and whatever captures her interest. She is a member of the International Food, Wine, and Travel Writers Association. Follow her on Facebook and Instagram: [at] junerussellchamberlin.