Cuba - Havana Happenings - Part 5
Table of Contents
Stories and photos by Jim Thomas (unless otherwise indicated)
Hello Friends,
This is the final segment on my trip to Havana, Cuba. As the title suggests, it will cover our departure from Havana. I will also discuss my final thoughts about our visit to this unique country. Finally, I will give my usual lessons learned and suggestions for those of you who are contemplating a trip to Cuba.
Saying Goodbye to Cuba
We departed our hotel at 09:00. This permitted us to have a leisurely buffet breakfast, check out, and meet in the lobby prior to boarding the bus. As usual, everyone was early or at least on time and we promptly departed for the airport. The trip to the airport was slightly different than when we arrived. Everything was new and strange when we first left the airport. Now, returning, we were used to the traffic, the scenery, and the types of buildings. We no longer gawked at the classic cars. We almost had a blasé attitude toward these beautiful vehicles. We had grown accustomed to them.
Arriving at the airport, we gathered with our luggage at an area near the ticket counters. This was when it became apparent that it was beneficial to have a tour guide who was well-connected. There was a huge crowd, similar to the one we experienced in Miami, that was trying to depart Cuba. The scene was just as chaotic. It appeared that we would be required to stand in long lines while they processed hundreds of people ahead of us. Suddenly, our Insight Cuba Guide, Graham, had contacted one of his friends who was an airline official. Immediately, we were directed to a separate counter and promptly checked-in without enduring the long lines!
Our Last Few Minutes in Havana
After clearing security and immigration, we were directed to go with Graham’s friend to the VIP Lounge on the second floor of the terminal. Graham could no longer be with us. The hostess opened the VIP Lounge just for us. This was a lovely area that was away from the crowd and chaos. There were comfortable lounge chairs and huge windows that overlooked the terminal. Most important, the lounge was air conditioned! The rest of the terminal wasn’t.
Then, something happened that I had never seen in the numerous VIP lounges that I had visited around the world. The lounge hostess brought out several bottles of rum, gin, and other adult beverages and told us that we could pour our own drinks. Water and soft drinks were available, too, on a self-serve basis. Several of our amazed tour partners asked for clarification of that statement. We had heard it right the first time. We actually could mix our own drinks! Since I don’t imbibe, I didn’t partake in this unusual offer. However, other members enjoyed the generous hospitality. Yet, no one abused the privilege. The hostess also provided snack of cheese, meats, and bread. This was a fantastic way to spend our last few minutes in Havana, Cuba. Somehow, I don’t think this was included in the tour package and we owe this final gesture of hospitality to our guide, Graham.
We had little over an hour before we needed to line up for our flight. The passenger waiting area, below the VIP Lounge, had several duty-free shops where one could make the last-minute purchases of souvenirs and gifts. They also had a place that sold cigars and rum. It was a great place to spend the last of our Cuban CUCs. Since it was duty free, the prices were a bit better than outside the airport. I bought a Cuban souvenir baseball to add to my collection and a couple of cigars to give to friends.
It should be noted that there was an elevator to the VIP Lounge. I took it one time. However, while we were there, the terminal experienced several power outages. After the first power outage, I no longer used the elevator. I was concerned that, with my luck, I would still be stuck in the elevator as my airplane was taking off. Besides, after 4 days in Cuba, I was use to climbing stairs.
Unusual Airlines, Havana, Cuba
Soon, it was time to board the plane. We walked single file to the stairs of our Swift Airlines plane. On the tarmac, I notice the plane of the Chinese President who was currently visiting Cuba. Also, on the ramp was a strange looking Boeing 727. It had America Airlines name on the fuselage and TWA on the tail. Another aircraft had the markings of Eastern Airlines, a company that went out of business in 1991! Were these relics the remains of hi-jackings that had occurred decades, ago? More likely, these planes were used by local and non-scheduled airlines that didn’t find it necessary to spend the extra money on new paint jobs. Anyway, it made for an interesting, if not strange, tarmac.
Once on board the aircraft, I realized we had the same flight crew that brought us to Cuba from Miami. That included the same manic, senior flight attendant who, once again, begged and pleaded for us to take our seats as soon as possible. Although I had requested a window seat, I realized that I had been assigned to a middle seat, not an enjoyable place for a man of my height and size. However, the senior flight attendant informed me that he would fix that as soon as the door was closed. Apparently, to sit in the emergency row, the passenger was required to speak fluent English. The Senior Flight Attendant asked the gentleman sitting in the aisle seat of the emergency row if he spoke English? Unfortunately for him and fortunately for me, he didn’t and we exchanged seats. Although I would have survived the 45-minute flight to Miami in the cramped center seat, I was appreciative for the larger leg room of the emergency row seat. The flight was much more enjoyable and very uneventful.
Once in Miami, customs and immigration was a breeze, especially since I had the Global Entry Access. A quick stop at the Global Entry kiosk and I was on my way. After picking up my luggage, the customs station was not an issue either. The whole entry process was rather quick and uneventful, especially since I was returning from Cuba. I was pleasantly surprised. Although I had stayed within my allotted limits of cigars and souvenirs and wasn’t worried, no one challenged me or even seemed to care. Don’t get me wrong. I wasn’t disappointed!
Many of our tour group had flights to catch that afternoon and made their way to their assigned boarding area. However, my flight out of Miami was not until the next day. I will discuss why I made that arrangement later.
Many of us stood in the airport lobby and said our goodbyes. I had been a part of many tour groups over the years and have never had a bad one. However, I had really enjoyed this particular group and developed a friendship with each of the participants during our brief time together. I had a feeling that I would miss them. We were fortunate to have each member of the tour group as well as our tour guides.
Final Thoughts, Tips, and Suggestions
I was happy that I went to Havana when I did. My visit to Cuba was a snapshot of a fluid society that was in almost a constant state of change. For example, when we left Cuba, there was a $100 limit on the value of cigars we could bring to the U. S. In the brief time since our return, that restriction was lifted. Also, I recently read in the newspaper that the issuance of licenses for paladars, the privately-owned restaurants, was suspended. Possibly, the Cuban government was concerned that capitalism was creeping in too quickly. Finally, for the first time since the embargo was imposed on Cuban by the United Nations, The United States of America abstained on the vote to renew that embargo. This was an obvious change in the U. S. attitude toward Cuba and was indicative of the continued thawing of relations between the two countries.
As I mentioned throughout my segments, I was pleasantly surprised with my visit to Havana. It was nothing like I had anticipated. The people were warm, friendly, and fun-loving. Having been to several Latin and South American countries, I had observed that the people of those countries seemingly had an aversion to standing in line. Instead, they shoved and crowded with an “everyone for himself” attitude. I did not see this in Havana. People were polite and courteous regardless of their station in life. Everyone seemed to know the phrases, “Excuse me,” and “I’m sorry.” They naturally stood in lines without being told. It was a refreshing experience.
I felt welcomed and appreciated by the Cubans. It appeared that tourism was growing in Havana and the Cubans realized that it provided a needed injection into their economy. I knew that I had not seen every community, but I imagined that there were certain undesirable neighborhoods just as there were in any other large city. However, we did not see them. There was an obvious effort by the Cubans to put their best foot forward. As I walked the various districts in Havana, I felt safer than I did during my recent visit to New Orleans. I felt that Cubans were looking out for our safety. Yet, I could not point to specific example that created that feeling.
I was so impressed with my visit to Cuba that I hope to return to the island in about 3 years. As I mentioned earlier, the county was changing. It may not be the same country a year from now. In 3 years, the change may be subtle. In 5 years, the change could be so dramatic that the Cuba that I recently saw will no longer exist. Who knows? We will see. These are exciting times for Cuba and will be even more exciting with the passing of Raul Castro and the last of the old guard that created the revolution in the 1950s.
Do I recommend visiting Cuba? Of course, I do and the sooner the better before the invasion of Starbucks and McDonalds. However, if you do go, be aware of the lack of certain conditions and conveniences that Americans take for granted. Cuba does not have any law that is like the American Disabilities Act. Thus, many places are not handicap accessible. Furthermore, many of the streets are made of cobblestones and can be a challenge for those that have difficulty walking. All but one of the restaurants where we dined were located on upper level floors. We had to climb as many as 5 flights of stairs to reach our dining venues.
Americans are used to climate-controlled facilities everywhere they go. Our hotel had comfortable air conditioning and so did our tour bus. However, that was about it. Stores, bars, churches, and restaurants were not air conditioned. Members of our tour group easily adapted to their present environment without complaint. Yet, I’ve been with other groups where the lack of these expected amenities would have caused great consternation among some tour members.
Grocery stores are not like those in the United States. As long as the embargo is in effect, don’t expect to find Coca Cola, Pepsi, or Budweiser in the stores, bars, or restaurants. However, you can purchase a Heineken. The same goes for over the counter medications and cosmetics. If there are items that you just can’t live without, bring them along. Chances are you won’t find them in what Cubans call supermarkets.
If you are planning a trip to Havana, you must go through a travel agent. As of this writing, individual travel to Cuba is still not allowed. You must travel with a specific purpose such as our “Cultural Exchange.” Visas are still required for Cuba and your travel agent / tour company should make those arrangements. The Cuban visa is a separate paper and does not take up a whole passport page as do visas for some countries, such as China and Viet Nam. You will get your passport stamped as you enter and leave the country.
When returning from a tour, I never book my connecting flight on that same day. Too many things, such as delayed flights or being stuck in an elevator due to a power outage in the airport terminal can cause you to miss your connecting flight. I have seen this happen to others when returning from a cruise and the ship was 8 hours late arriving home. The panic and the stress shown on the people who knew they had no way of making their connecting flight left an indelible memory. Since I am retired and have the time to spend an extra day, it is well worth the peace and serenity. You may want to consider this option, too.
As of this writing you have about a 10% surcharge for exchanging U. S. dollars for Cuban CUCs. However, I just learned from someone that had even more recently returned from Cuba, there is a way to avoid the 10% surcharge. Before going to Cuba, exchange U. S. dollars for Canadian dollars. It appears there is no surcharge for exchanging Canadian dollars for Cuban CUCs. I don’t know how long this policy will be in effect but it might be worth a try.
As mentioned earlier, I exchanged only $100 into CUCs at the airport. Check with your tour guide and itinerary to determine if you will be visiting several sites that provide opportunities to purchase cigars or souvenirs before you have another opportunity to change money. That being the case, I would recommend buying at least $200 or $300 at the airport. Besides, the rate of exchange at the airport was better than at the hotel.
We stayed at a first-class hotel. Yet, I found that WIFI, and cell phone service was poor at best. I’d leave the lap top at home. Again, Cuba is in a period of change and the communication services could improve. However, I am reminded that like in China, You Tube is not available due to government restrictions. We will see.
There was another thing that could be left at home. Men did not need a sport coat and women did not need sophisticated evening wear. The dress in Cuba was very casual. Shorts, sport or T shirts, and comfortable walking shoes were worn during the day. For evening dinner, men wore slacks and tropical or polo shirts. Woman wore the equivalent. The days of wearing formal evening attire left Havana with Batista. That could change, too.
Finally, I hope you have enjoyed these segments as much as I have enjoyed sharing them with you. Furthermore, I hope that the travel restrictions for Americans will be lifted in the near future so that you, too, can visit Cuba. I really think you will enjoy it! At the very least, it will give you a true appreciation for what we have in our Untied States.
Safe Travels!
Jim Thomas
Originally from Aurora, IL, I served 26 years in the U. S. military around the world. Thus far, my travels have taken me to all 7 continents and 114 countries. I delight in the opportunity to actually visit places and experience cultures that most people only read about. My undergraduate degrees in history and political science and a master’s degree in public administration have given me an understanding of world history and the various political issues, globally. My master’s degree in special education from The Johns Hopkins University, combined with 24 years teaching experience, have given me an awareness and insight into the human needs of various cultures. Thus, I use all of these tools in planning my travels and writing my stories. I hope these narratives will serve as an interesting read as well as a useful reference for your own future travels. Jim is a member of ITWPA and you can read more about his travels at Jimpatjourneys.com.