Cuba - Havana Happenings - Part 3
Table of Contents
Stories and photos by Jim Thomas (unless otherwise indicated)
Hello Friends,
The second day in Havana, Cuba began with a wonderful buffet breakfast at our hotel. We were scheduled to receive a lecture in one of the conference rooms on the hotel’s second floor. Prior to the beginning of the lecture we were directed to meet the group at the escalator on the second floor and go together to the meeting room.
I got to the location about 25 minutes early and placed myself in a perfect location for people watching. The reason for this was that the Prime Minister of Japan was also having meetings on the same floor. Prior to the meeting it was fun to watch his numerous staff members scurrying around making preparations for the meeting. In addition to the Prime Minister’s staff, the Japanese press was also in a frenzy. I saw a woman reporter run down the escalator with her entourage of cameraman, sound man, director, and producer. Ten minutes later, the same reporter was running up the escalator, with the same group in tow, heading for a room down the hall. At the same time, other staff members were running in and out of one room just in front of me. All of them had a serious look of determination that projected both fear and resolve. None of them ever smiled. It would have been wonderful if someone like Bill Murray walked in to the room and yelled, “Hey everybody! You all need to CHILL OUT!!!!!” Anyway, this drama before me provided both entertainment and comic relief as I waited for the rest of the group to arrive. It also reaffirmed how happy I was to be retired and immune to such stress!
Cuba in Transition
The group finally joined and together we went to the room where we would receive a very interesting lecture from Dr. Rafael Hernandez. His topic was “Cuba in Transition: Economic, Social and political Changes, 1990 – Present.” Dr. Hernandez was a political analyst, professor, researcher, and the Editor of Temas Magazine, a Havana-based quarterly in the field of social sciences and humanities. Dr. Hernandez had been on the faculty of Harvard and Cornell Universities and had lectured at other prestigious universities including Johns Hopkins. He was the author of several books including “Shall We Play Ball? Debating U. S. – Cuban Relations.” (2011). It would be worth your while to google this distinguished professor to discover his many accomplishments and to review some of his writings.
Dr. Hernandez’s focus was mainly on the transition Cuba was experiencing. Although some people have tried to make comparisons between the events in Poland that led to the downfall of Communism in that country, he assured us that Cuba was unique. Several things have influenced Cuba in recent years. The retirement of Fidel Castro, lessening of restrictions by Fidel’s brother Raul, the warming of relationships between the United States and Cuba, and the visit by the Pope all have contributed to an evolving Cuban political, economic, and social environment. Furthermore, U. S. Foreign Policy toward Cuba had a direct impact on Cuba. This was influenced by a strong Cuban-American lobby led by Marco Rubio. However, the overall atmosphere was slowly changing.
The future of Cuba was rather uncertain. With the removal of Raul, there would be no one left from the old guard who participated in the struggle that removed Batista. The remaining generations didn’t have a true appreciation for the hard-fought struggles and the prices paid for the revolution. To use Dr. Hernandez’s words, “Raul was the end of the line.” The future after Raul was going to be determined by the Cuban people. Yet, there were so many factors that were going to influence the future of Cuba. The vast majority of businesses were state owned. Yet, the number of privately owned businesses such as restaurants was growing. The fluid situation reminded me a damn that was starting to develop leaks. Eventually, the damn was going to break and capitalism was going to flood the country.
Poverty was increasing. However, a significant rise in tourism was helping the economy. An estimated 170,000 Americans visited Cuba in 2015. Dr. Hernandez even foretold of the potential for a creation of a new Cuban Constitution. To quote the old rebellious song of the 60s, “The Times They Are a Changin’.”
I could have written an entire paper on Dr. Hernandez’s presentation. Although slightly uncertain, he was cautiously optimistic about the future of Cuba. He noted that if we return in 5 years, we may not see the same Cuba that we saw on this visit. I tended to agree with him. I left Dr. Hernandez’s lecture wishing I had more time to hear his other thoughts on Cuba and its future. He was one of those guys that I would like to meet for coffee about once a week to discuss world affairs. If he ever gives a lecture in the states, I’d like to attend it.
Art Studio in Havana
After the lecture, we boarded the tour bus for our next “cultural” experience. This was a visit to a privately owned art studio. The artist’s main focus was on beautiful ceramic tiles and sculptures. The studio was located in a neighborhood house that had galleries on various levels. It also had a lovely garden with a beautiful waterfall made of blue and white ceramic tiles. In this garden, one word came to my mind, “serene.” I could live here!
I found a couple of lovely, reasonably priced pieces of art that could easily be packed in my suitcase. I was grateful that the studio was equipped to properly pack these items to assure their safe passage to my home in Nevada. I noticed that each member of the group made similar selections. I was confident that this studio had a good day with our visit. It affirmed my belief that capitalism was ready to burst into Cuba. Somehow, I began to feel that these good deals wouldn’t be here next year, let alone in five years.
With our newly bought treasures in hand, we boarded the bus for lunch. Our bus drove past the embassies of many countries, including the Canadian and the Chinese Embassies. On one of the streets, I noticed a small park with a bust of Yasser Arafat, the deceased former leader of the PLO. This was a subtle reminder of the former political leanings of Cuba. I said former, because I truly believe these leanings were changing.
Colonial Havana
Once, again, we returned to the Velado neighborhood of Havana. Our destination was the Paladar Starbien. This was a restored 1930’s classic, colonial mansion that was situated in this upper middle – high class residential neighborhood. There were several tables set up for us on the veranda and we had this section of the venue to ourselves. This provided the gentle breeze and a wonderful view of the front garden. It gave us a brief taste of what Colonial Havana may have been. After a lovely lunch of chicken, I took a quick look around the first floor of this paladar. The restaurant had several other dining areas on the first floor and appeared to be doing a great business. Yes, capitalism was here, too!
After lunch we were scheduled to visit a local food co-op. However, our tour guide moved it to the next day in order to have a more efficient use of our time. This permitted us to visit a huge park with the most spectacular banyan trees. I had never seen one of these before. There were two large trees that were estimated to be over 150 years old. The banyan is a fig tree whose roots grow down and around the main stem creating an intricate mesh, web-like formation that kept expanding and expanding. It reminded me of something that one would see in a haunted forest. That being said, it was truly a magnificent tree.
La Zorra & El Cuervo (The Fox and The Crow) Jazz Club
After a visit to the park, we proceeded to our next cultural experience, the last one for the day. This was the La Zorra & El Cuervo (The Fox and The Crow) Jazz Club that was located in the Vedado neighborhood of Havana. It was easily recognized by the British phone box that was used as its entryway. Since the relaxing of Cuban-American relations, the club’s owner has joined with our travel group, Insight Cuba, to provide a cultural experience that focused on Afro-Cuban Jazz.
Entering through the British phone box and proceeding downstairs to a darkened club that was lit only by the lights from the stage, I was unaware of the musical treat that we were about to enjoy. We were the only ones in the club. However, I had a feeling that this place would be jumping later that evening. The smell of stale cigarette smoke and beer was reminiscent of similar clubs around the world. I sensed that this was a happening place.
On stage was a young quintet, in their late teens and early twenties. It consisted of a horn, base, keyboard, and drums. They played a wide range of Cuban jazz, some of which could easily be compared to Chuck Mangione. The entire group was outstanding. However, the drummer was truly exceptional. I could easily compare his effortless, tireless style to a young Gene Krupa. If all went well and Cuba continued on its current path into the world of the twenty-first century, I was confident that more would be heard from this drummer. He had real talent! The group was appreciative of the opportunity to perform for us and seemed to be aware of the significance of the cultural exchange.
After leaving the club, we headed back to our hotel. This was our only free evening in Havana. A mother and her daughter suggested that I join them for dinner. While I felt safer in Havana than I did during my recent stay in New Orleans, the fact that two attractive ladies were by themselves in Havana was not the wisest of situations. Thus, I happily accepted their invitation. We asked Graham, our guide, for a recommendation and the address of the restaurant. He called and made reservations for us at 7:00 PM.
Prior to departing the hotel, we met with the concierge and made arrangements to hire one of the classic cars that we had seen on the streets of Havana, ever since we arrived. We asked that the car pick us up at our restaurant at 8:00 PM. As an afterthought, I returned to the concierge and requested, if possible, a Cadillac El Dorado convertible. The concierge said that she would try.
We took a cab to the Restaurant Mirador, which was located on the 11 floors of an apartment building about 2 miles from our hotel. I was grateful that THIS building had an elevator, although it was not much larger than a phone booth. As usual, the restaurant was not air conditioned. However, the building was high enough to provide an unobstructed view of the Atlantic Ocean. The privately owned restaurant was a converted apartment which created an unusual layout for this venue. Our table was located in a sun room that provided a great view along with the cool breeze. Thus, air conditioning was not necessary. The high floor also provided a spectacular view of the sun setting among the puffy white-gray clouds. We sat spellbound watching the sun set into the Atlantic as it created a sky that could only be described as “sky blue-pink.” It was a perfect way to start a fantastic meal.
We all ordered seafood, I ordered a lobster in garlic sauce that was totally delicious. The meal included rice, salad and vegetables. One of my friends ordered a lobster and the other ordered a fresh fish. Each meal was fantastic, especially when I found out that my lobster dinner only cost about $18! I was almost certain that those prices will change in the years to come.
My Havana Ride
We finished our dinner with enough time to get downstairs to see what kind of car our hotel’s concierge was going to provide for us. Standing high on the steps of the building, I was delighted to see what was heading down the middle of the road. If fact it almost took up the entire road! I yelled, “She did it! She did it!” Arriving in front our restaurant was a gleaming, pristine 1954 Orange Cadillac El Dorado convertible with beautiful white interior! It was the most beautiful car that I had seen since I arrived in Havana. It, along with our driver and an English-speaking guide, was ours for the evening.
A Night in Havana
We immediately headed toward downtown Havana. Prior to getting to the crowded thoroughfares, we found a well-lit section and stopped to have pictures taken of us in the car. As we drove the streets of Havana, the beautiful white government buildings were well lit and made to look like white layer cakes. Havana proved to be even more beautiful at night than I had imagined. As we rode through the streets of the civic center, we could hear Cuban and Latin music being played in the background from the various clubs. I imagined Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner taking the same ride in this same car 50 years, ago. It was fun to watch people’s reactions as we drove by them or stopped at intersections. This car was a real eye catcher. I turned to my two friends and told them that we were living someone else’s fantasy. They both agreed.
About 30 minutes into the ride, I asked our guide how much this ride was costing us? His response totally shocked me! He said, “$35 CUC, total.” That was a little more than $35 (U. S.) total for the car, driver, and guide! I immediately turned to my friends and said, “We are doing 2 hours!” They quickly agreed and so did our guide. We made his night!
With the additional time for touring, our guide, Alberto, suggested that we go to the Old Cabana Fortress to watch the firing of the Curfew Cannon. This was a nightly military ritual that culminated with the firing of an actual cannon. That ritual began centuries, ago, when the cannon was used to announce the closing of the city gates at 9 PM. Residents needed to be inside the city wall before the cannon fired for their own protection. Failure to comply with this could have exposed citizens to the evil perils of the night. Although the gates were no longer closed, the cannon firing ritual continued with all of its military splendor. The whole program took about 30 minutes with much pomp and pageantry. The actual firing of the cannon, an explosion that could be heard all over the city, was almost anti-climactic. Once the cannon was fired, the huge crowd that had gathered to watch this ceremony, dispersed almost immediately. I was glad our driver recommended the program and offer it to you, the reader.
Upon leaving the old fort, our guide suggested that we visit the Statue of Christ of Havana, a gigantic white marble statue of Jesus of Nazareth. Located on top of a hill in the neighborhood known as Casa Blanca, it provided an impressive appearance during the day and at night, when it was lit. The view of Havana at night from this hill top was also magnificent! Unfortunately, the statue was surrounded by scaffolding and made photographs impractical.
The hour was late. The day had been exciting and action filled, but long. It was time to head back in our classic coach to our hotel. We took the scenic route along the Malecon, more properly known as the Muro de Malecon, the drive along the seawall. The six-lane boulevard curved along the Atlantic shoreline and stretched for miles. Our hotel and several prominent properties were located along this classic thoroughfare. While this was a beautiful and peaceful drive, something remarkable happened along this highway every evening. Literally thousands of Cubans convened along the walkways of this road to socialize. The lack of air conditioning in their residences caused the citizens of Havana to converge on the Malecon to enjoy the cool ocean breezes of the evening. It truly was a remarkable sight to see citizens peacefully congregating to socialize and enjoy the cool air.
The End to a Magical Night in Havana
It was after 10:00 PM on a Friday evening and the Malecon was still crowded with people in numerous groups standing or sitting on the sea wall having quiet conversations. There wasn’t a notable presence of law enforcement nor the need for such supervision. It truly was a remarkable sight reminiscent of an America, long ago, before the days of numerous TV channels, video games, and other diversions. This was a time when people sat on their porches, enjoyed the evening air, and conversed with their neighbors. That time was alive and well on the Malecon in Havana, Cuba. I wonder if those people knew how fortunate they were?
All too soon, the tour in our classic chariot ended. Albert allowed us to take more pictures and proudly gave me a tour under the hood of this marvelous machine. As expected, it was as clean as the rest of the automobile. I couldn’t have thought of a better way to spend our free evening in Havana. I was riding in classic style around the streets of Havana in a 1954 Cadillac El Dorado with two lovely blond-haired ladies. I don’t think Frank Sinatra had it any better!
I hope you have enjoyed this segment detailing our second day in Havana. My next edition will cover more touring of the streets of Havana, a food co-op, more great food, jazz dancing, and a wonderful farewell dinner.
Jim Thomas
Originally from Aurora, IL, I served 26 years in the U. S. military around the world. Thus far, my travels have taken me to all 7 continents and 114 countries. I delight in the opportunity to actually visit places and experience cultures that most people only read about. My undergraduate degrees in history and political science and a master’s degree in public administration have given me an understanding of world history and the various political issues, globally. My master’s degree in special education from The Johns Hopkins University, combined with 24 years teaching experience, have given me an awareness and insight into the human needs of various cultures. Thus, I use all of these tools in planning my travels and writing my stories. I hope these narratives will serve as an interesting read as well as a useful reference for your own future travels. Jim is a member of ITWPA and you can read more about his travels at Jimpatjourneys.com.