Big Bend National Park Adventure in West Texas
Table of Contents
Story and photos by Scott Kendall (unless otherwise indicated)
Towns Near Big Bend National Park
Big Bend National Park is a scenic area in west Texas where the Rio Grande River makes a large bend on the border between Texas and Mexico. Over 800,000 acres of mountains, valleys, and a wide variety of plants and wildlife are abundant in this national park in the Chihuahuan Desert.
The main towns near Big Bend National Park include Terlingua, Marfa, Alpine, and Marfa. Terlingua is the closest to the park, a mere 15 minutes from Maverick Junction, one of the main entrances off Highway 118. The other towns are a one-to-two-hour drive, depending on where in the park you are going.
Alpine
We spent the first three nights in the small college town of Alpine. The wonderful Museum of the Big Bend is located on the Sul Ross University campus. It is a one-to-two-hour drive from Alpine to various parts of the park, so we started each morning by hitting the road around 6 am. Since it was Spring Break in Texas and the busiest time of year for Big Bend, some of the more popular spots are closed to incoming traffic when capacity is reached. It is highly recommended to arrive by 8 am for the most popular destinations like Santa Elena Canyon and the Chisos Mountain Basin.
Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway to Santa Elena Canyon
The Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway is a very popular scenic drive that takes you to the always popular Santa Elena Canyon. This 31 mile drive is a wonderful way to view some of the majesty of the park from the comfort of your car.
Mule Ears is a geologic formation that looks like – well, like a mule’s ears. The moderately challenging Mule Ears Trail is about 4 miles in and out and can be completed in about an hour and a half. The rocky trail takes you up, down, and across landscapes covered with cactus, yucca, ocotillo, and other native plants.
Other interesting stops along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Highway include Tuff Canyon, Sam Nail Ranch, Homer Ranch, and the Lower and Upper Burro Falls Trails.
Santa Elena Canyon at the End of Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive
The reward at the end of the drive is the Santa Elena Canyon. A 1.7 mile trail takes you along the banks of the Rio Grande between two towering rock cliffs making up the canyon. In the early morning we were treated to the first light of the day glistening on the water and upon the massive cliff sides of the canyon.
After leaving the parking lot, you can follow the signs and wade across the Rio Grande, or take a right and follow the path across the dry river bed to the canyon. Not wanting to get wet, we took the five minute detour to the right.
Boquillas Canyon and Hot Springs
Boquillas Canyon and Hot Springs are both located along the Rio Grande River in the far eastern part of the park. From the parking lot at Boquillas Canyon there is a moderately difficult climb to a rocky outcrop with a wonderful view of the Rio Grande. The trail then goes down to the river and continues for about a mile and a half. Looking to your right from the trail you can see kayakers and the towering cliffs of the Boquillas Canyon.
The Hot Springs is a fascinating area that once was the location of a secluded resort. Lodging and facilities were available for those wanting to relax along the river and to enjoy the natural hot springs that flow from underground. As you can see in the picture, people are still enjoying the hot springs in the area enclosed by the rock barrier.
Nearby you can also cross the international border into the Mexican village of Boquillas. Just make sure you have a current passport with you to enter.
Terlingua Ghost Town and Cemetery
Terlingua is a small town most famous for its annual World Chili Cookoff Championship held the first week of November since 1967. Terlingua was first established in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s with the discovery of cinnabar, from which mercury was extracted. Mining operations supported a population of about 2,000 at its peak in the early 1900s.
Today, Terlingua’s biggest industry is tourism, providing lodging, restaurants, resources and activities for people visiting the Big Bend National Park. Far Flung Outdoor Center provides guided tours by boat and jeep as well as equipment rentals. Several good restaurants in Terlingua include Long Draw Pizza, DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ, and the legendary La Kiva (to reopen in May 2023).
Long Draw Pizza, Terlingua
Long Draw Pizza, just five minutes west of the main downtown area, was a pleasant surprise. We enjoyed fantastic pizza for dinner, cold beer, and fun, live entertainment. Our pizza, the Pancho Villa, had a light crispy crust topped with just the right amount of cheese, sausage, and rings of jalapenos. Other members of our party ordered the Gringo, tender fajita chicken with Portobellos, spinach, ham, mozzarella, Monterey Jack, and a flavorful Alfredo sauce. They both agreed it was delicious!
Starters at Long Draw Pizza include Cheesy Bread, Mozzarella Sticks, Chicken Wings, Fried Pickles, and salads. On the drink menu are a wide selection of domestic and imported beer, wine, and sodas.
Owners Mallory and Andy Mundy have created a delightful family friendly place for visitors to enjoy a break from exploring the expansive Big Bend National Park. We arrived around 6 pm on a Wednesday for dinner and were lucky to find one of the last available tables outside. While we were waiting for our pizza, we relaxed with cold beer while listening to the delightful DB Rouse, the singing hobo.
DB entertained us with some of his own tunes in addition to covers of Johnny Cash’s Ring of Fire, Janis Joplin’s Me and Bobby McGee, Otis Redding’s Sitting on the Dock of Bay, and other classics. His fun tunes and clever commentary made for a memorable evening.
La Kiva – the Reopening of a Terlingua Legend
Mallory and Andy are excited about their second restaurant in Terlingua – the famous La Kiva. The much anticipated reopening of this Terlingua landmark has locals and tourists looking forward to revitalizing La Kiva, a long standing favorite for decades.
La Kiva is a unique venue dug into the banks of Terlingua Creek, started in 1979 by Gil Felts. This popular bar and restaurant located partly underground in a carved sandstone space has an intriguing history, including the story of murder in a small town when then owner Glenn Felts was killed in 2014. La Kiva has been featured in several movies and television shows, including There Will Be Blood, No Country for Old Men, and the series Badlands.
Like many restaurants and bars, La Kiva was hit hard during Covid, and was closed for a time. Mallory and Andy see reopening La Kiva as a big opportunity and challenge to bring back this legendary restaurant and bar.
DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ in Terlingua
DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ is another popular restaurant in the Big Bend area. After a full day of hiking and exploring the national park, nothing is better than a cold beer or soda with some slow smoked barbecue. We savored a plate of flavorful brisket, ribs, pulled pork, and turkey with sides of beans and potato salad.
While we enjoyed our dinner, we were entertained by the Wayward Gypsies singing lively country tunes. Open since 2016, DB’s (Don Baucham) has grown into one of the more popular restaurants in the Big Bend area. With plenty of indoor and covered outdoor seating, DB’s is located just down the road from the Terlingua Ghost Town Cemetery.
Marfa
Marfa is a small town just north of the park. In addition to being a popular base for those visiting the Big Bend National Park, Marfa is well known for other reasons. Perhaps its biggest claim to fame is being the base for the filming of the classic 1956 movie Giant, starring Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson, and James Dean. Marfa is also known for the Marfa lights, an eclectic collection of artists and art galleries, and its scenic desert landscapes.
Jett’s Grill at the Hotel Paisano in Marfa
Jett’s Grill is an outstanding fine dining restaurant housed in the Hotel Paisano. The outdoor patio, with its central fountain, flowers, and relaxed atmosphere is the perfect place for a cold drink. Dinner can be enjoyed on the patio or inside in the elegant dining room.
I started with the house salad with fresh strawberries and candied pecans. For my main I couldn’t resist the Pistachio Crusted Sirloin Steak with a cream gravy and a roasted jalapeño on top, served with homemade mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus. My wife was also happy with her fresh green salad with a filet of tender grilled Salmon.
For dessert, we had a chocolate craving so our server recommended one of their specialties. The freshly baked chocolate cookie in a cast iron skillet was served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, drizzles of chocolate syrup, and two spoons was fantastic. We ate every last crumb of cookie and every last spoonful of ice cream. So good!
Jett’s Grill is also famous for their lemon pie, made from an old historic recipe going back decades. We will have to try that next time we visit.
Far Flung Outdoor Center in Terlingua
Far Flung Outdoor Center has all your needs to help you enjoy your time in Big Bend National Park. Far Flung offers raft trips, Jeep tours, ATV adventures, and rentals. Whether you are looking for a half-day or a three- or four-day adventure, Far Flung has the right activity for you. They also have some lodging accommodations in their roomy Big Bend Casitas.
McDonald Observatory
Just 30 minutes north of Alpine, the McDonald Observatory near Fort Davis is an immensely popular destination in west Texas. Famous for its Dark Skies designation, the McDonald Observatory is one of the best places in North America to view celestial bodies. In addition to fantastic views with the naked eye, the observatory offers high tech telescopes and professional astronomers to enhance your viewing experience. Evening Star Parties are one great way to view the skies.
Your West Texas Adventure Awaits You in Big Bend National Park
I have lived in Texas for most of my life, and this was my first visit to this spectacular area lying in west Texas. Big Bend National Park is a beautiful area full of mountains, basins, flora, fauna, and the majestic Rio Grande River. Don’t wait as long as I did to enjoy this national treasure – come see Big Bend National Park soon!
Thanks to Long Draw Pizza, Jett’s Grill at the Hotel Paisano, and DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ for hosting us. All opinions are my own.
Scott Kendall is the Founder, Editor, and frequent contributor to PlayStayEat. He is a former Navy Officer, teacher and tennis coach who is an avid traveler and writer. Scott has traveled extensively throughout the United States and overseas to Italy, France, England, Croatia, Slovenia, and others. In addition to his contributions to PlayStayEat, much of his published work can be seen at scottkendalltravels.com.