A Fall Weekend Getaway In Hammondsport, New York
Table of Contents
Stories and photos by Jeanine Consoli (unless otherwise indicated)
Historic Hammondsport, New York, is a tiny village with a big reputation. Not only was it named “The Coolest Small Town In America” by readers of Budget Travel Magazine, but it was also touted as “One of the 25 Best Small Lake Towns in America” by Country Living Magazine in 2017. The Finger Lakes Region is a four-season destination, and late fall is the perfect time to visit. The cooler temperatures and fewer crowds leave plenty of space and time to explore the best the area has to offer.
Hammondsport is located at the southern tip of Keuka Lake, one of the largest of the Finger Lakes in New York State. Vine City is known for the over 100 varieties of grapes grown on the steep slopes leading down to the only Y shaped lake. The area is also known as The Cradle of Aviation, for motorcycle and aviation pioneer Glenn H Curtiss.
What makes this a fantastic destination? It is the home of world-class wineries and a playground for outdoor activities on and off the lake. All around the area, you can enjoy fantastic food and craft beer or spirits. There are monthly events, antiquing, museums, art, and local charm packed into just under a half-mile. No matter when you plan to go, there is something for everyone on the crooked lake.
How Do You Get There?
Hammondsport is a four to five-hour drive from major cities like New York, Philadelphia, or Washington DC. It is a leisurely road trip on significant highways. You can fly into Greater Rochester International Airport and drive about an hour and thirty minutes south to Hammondsport from other destinations.
A Quick History of the Keuka Lake
When you look at a Finger Lake Region map, you will notice 11 long skinny parallel lakes. They were formed when the glaciers receded over 10,000 years ago. As the ice sheets melted, they scraped the valleys, piling up dirt and rocks that blocked streams, filling the valleys with water.
The long, narrow waterways look like fingers, except for Keuka. Lake Keuka resembles a “Y” shape, giving it the nickname, the “Crooked Lake.” Keuka is the third largest at 19.6 miles long, 1.9 miles wide, and 183 feet deep. The towns of Hammondsport, Branchport, and Penn Yan surround the lake.
Known As Vine City
The first grapes in Hammondsport were planted by Reverend Bostwick in 1829. He used cuttings from Isabella and Catawba vines from the Hudson Valley and planted them in the garden behind his rectory at the Episcopal Church. Later, other varieties like Concord, Alexander, and Niagara were brought to the area.
The grape industry grew into both wine and table grape production. By the end of the 19thcentury, native grapevines were well established, and by 1860, Pleasant Valley Wine Company founded the first bonded winery in the region (and the country) in Hammondsport.
The Cradle of Aviation
On July 4, 1908, Glenn H. Curtiss flew his biplane named “June Bug” in America’s first-ever air show. The plane took off from a field in Pleasant Valley, just down the road from Hammondsport. It flew for one mile in front of hundreds of spectators and established Curtiss as “America’s foremost aviation pioneer.”
Today, the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum is dedicated to his inventions and ingenuity. The building contains a priceless collection of motorcycle and aviation history from its earliest beginnings, which started in Hammondsport. It is a fantastic place filled with fascinating information, much of which is not widely known. You will learn about the fastest man on earth at the museum, see artifacts from his life, inventions, and earliest airplanes, including seaplanes that flew on Keuka Lake. There is also a priceless collection of antique motorcycles, boats, and cars, including the C-46 WWII transport plane that sits right outside the museum. Additionally, dedicated volunteers restore an actual P-40 War Hawk on the premises that you can observe if your schedule permits.
Stay In An Historic Inn
The Park Inn is located in one of the most historic buildings in Hammondsport. The building, dating back to 1828, has a perfect in-town location. It started as Latimore Tailor shop, but by 1830 it became a small inn named the Urbana House. After Jacob Frey bought it in 1861, he added more rooms and a cellar for making wine. He called his new business, “The Park Hotel” and his winery, “Germania Wine Company.”
It sits across the street from the village green and steps away from the shops and restaurants on Shethar Street. The five all-suite rooms are beautifully renovated and appointed. Indulgences include luxury linens, antique furniture, and spa-like bathrooms. Each room has thoughtful extras and comfortable queen or king beds that feel like you are sleeping on a cloud.
Innkeeper Marie DeRosa makes sure her guests have everything they need to have a fantastic experience in the Finger Lakes. A resident in the area for thirty years, Marie’s local knowledge and warmth take hospitality to the next level. The Park Inn also has a fantastic restaurant next door with a casual vibe and an award-winning wine list. It is a must-stop for dining when staying in Hammondsport.
Other Places To Stay in Hammondsport
A few distinctive B and B’s make for a romantic getaway and are close to the wineries. The closest to the village square and Keuka Lake is the Blushing Rose Inn B&B. The Black Sheep Inn & Spa is a historic octagonal house just outside of town. And, the MoonShadow B&B is also outside of town with a fantastic view of the lake. Another option is the Best Western Plus on Route 54 in Hammondsport.
Wineries Around Keuka Lake
Wine tastings in Vine City are the thing to do any time of year, but especially in late fall when the crowds are smaller. Fourteen different wineries around the southern part of Keuka Lake (12 on the lake and two within 30 minutes) are producing bone-dry to sweet varieties of world-class wines. Here are four fantastic vineyards to try.
Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery
Dr. Konstantin Frank, the winemaker who ignited the “Vinifera Revolution,” established a winery in 1962 on Keuka Lake’s southwestern hills at the age of 63. Dr. Frank earned his Ph. D. in Viticulture from Odesa, Ukraine, in 1930. After he immigrated to New York City, he found his way to the Finger Lakes. He knew from experience that he could grow European grape varietals in the cold climate and steep, slate, and clay-filled slopes along Keuka Lake.
Frank was the first to graft cuttings of Vitis vinifera onto the native rootstock, and his “experiment” changed the wine industry in New York and the United States. He believed Americans deserved great European wines. His legacy continues today with the fourth generation of his family’s winemaking tradition. Named a “Top 100 Winery” by Wine and Spirits Magazine, and “10 Best Tasting Room in America” by USA Today, many Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir vines are still producing wine, representing some of the oldest vines in America.
Weis Vineyards on Keuka Lake
Weis Vineyard is the newest addition to the international wine scene that is quickly advancing on Keuka Lake. Hans Peter Weis grew up in Zell Mosel, Germany, in a winemaking family. Peter spent years learning the winemaking business, earning a degree in agriculture and wine. Weis traveled to Sonoma, California, to learn more about winemaking and then spent time in the Finger Lakes, where he discovered the perfect wine region similar to his homeland. He also met and married his wife Ashlee, and together they created Weis Vineyards. Weis handcrafts traditional German-style wines, specifically dry and semi-dry Riesling, sweet and blush wines, dry reds like Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Lemberger, and Cabernet Sauvignon, and specialty items like Riesling Ice Wine. Weis Wines have earned 90 points from Wine Enthusiast for their Dry and Semi-Dry Riesling, and Robert Parker rated 8 of their wines, including their Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, in the 89 – 94-point range.
Domaine LeSuerre Winery, a Touch of France
Domaine LeSeurre Winery is owned and operated by Céline and Sébastien Le Seurre, a winemaking couple who grew up in France living and working on their families’ vineyards. Sébastien studied viticulture and Oenology for six years as well as sales and marketing. Céline looked to be a sommelier and developed a passion for the wine industry. Together they have worked with 16 vintages from around the world after meeting in 2009 in New Zealand.
They continued to travel until they discovered the Finger Lakes, specifically Keuka Lake, in 2011. They knew the terroir (soil and climate) was perfect for winemaking and made their focus dry white and red wines. Their first vintage was in 2011, and in October of 2013, they opened their tasting room. That year their 2013 Dry Riesling scored a 90-point rating from Wine & Spirits Magazine and Wine Enthusiast.
Today they have 19 wines melding new world wine techniques with Finger Lakes grapes like Rieslings, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. Their 2017 unoaked Chardonnay scored 89 points from Robert Parker. Each bottle reflects its careful craft and is a delicious, expressive experience.
Ravines Wine Cellars
Ravines Wine Cellars is a small family winery owned by Morten and Lisa Hallgren. Morten is a European winemaker and Oenologist, and his wife Lisa is a chef. Together they started Ravines in 2001. His extensive training in Europe led him to focus on traditional methods of winemaking. He studied and worked in Europe first and later came to the United States. He arrived in the Finger Lakes in 1998 to work as chief winemaker for Dr. Konstantin Frank Cellars. During his time at Dr. Frank Cellars, he tasted and experienced grapes from around the lake from many different vineyards and realized the potential for dry wines from many sources. He decided to start his own vineyard and create wine in his unique style. His bone-dry Riesling has won numerous awards, high scores, and international success. Ravines wines recently received Wine & Spirits, “Top 100 Wineries” Wine Spectator “Top 100 Wines” and The New York Times, “Top 20 Wines, Best U.S. Riesling.”
Craft Breweries around Hammondsport
Throughout the year is the popular Craft Your Own Adventure experience. You can combine outdoor adventures with a stop in some craft breweries after an exciting hike or a day on the lake. There are several craft breweries around Hammondsport; here are two unique visits.
Steuben Brewing Company, LLC
Steuben Brewing Company opened in 2014 on a farm on the west side of Keuka Lake. It’s family operated and owned, sourcing local ingredients such as hops and malts from the area’s farmers. The beer is fresh and expressive. Steuben brews include ales, pilsner, Saaz, and a variety of IPA’s. Its tasting room has a patio with a terrific lake view. Check the website for events such as Tyler’s Pizza Joint, fresh pizza-making on the premises.
The Brewery of Broken Dreams operates out of a historic building that is over 120 years old. In the late 1800’s, it was Monarch Wine Company, but it burned to the ground in 1905. It became a basket shop, a few different wine businesses, and then fire struck again. When Douglass Schuckers and Shelly Fisher purchased the building in 2011, they gutted and rebuilt it. Many of the original stone features and some of the beams remain.
The Ceramic Engineer that made home brews turned Brewery Operations Manager, and his partner in life and Co-owner Shelly did not quit their day jobs, but their passion has earned them a following.
The beer is traditionally inspired using 100 percent New York State Hops and New York State Base Malts. The Brewery of Broken Dreams also uses 70 percent of the other ingredients from the local area. They craft traditional and unique ales and create a special brew each Friday the 13th called Triskaidekaphobia, utilizing a blend of malts, hops, yeasts, and water. The number of ingredients always equals 13. It is released the following Friday, the 13th, at 13 minutes past the 13th hour. It is a fan favorite.
You should not miss this brewery.
Finger Lakes Boating Museum
The Finger Lakes Boating Museum resides within three floors of the historic Taylor Wine Company’s main buildings. Still, it has so many exhibits (including a restoration facility) that it has recently expanded into an entire campus on the property. The campus consists of 14 acres and 20 buildings donated for use by Mercury Corporation, supporting the museum’s mission. In 1996, a group of antique boating enthusiasts wanted to establish a place to “Preserve the boating heritage of the Finger Lakes Region of New York State.” Visitors will be amazed at the incredible history of wooden boat building and boating unique to the Finger Lakes, from canoes and rowboats to gorgeous motor and sailboats. The museum collection has 200 plus boats built by over 40 commercial craftsmen identified as boat builders in the Finger Lakes Region in the last 100 years. Not only are the boats beautiful, but the building that houses them is a time capsule in itself.
Important Preservation Work At The Museum
The preservation volunteers were working on restoring the Pat II, a 39’ boat built-in 1924, that served as a tour boat first in the Thousand Islands, then to Skaneateles Lake as a tour boat and a US Postal Service delivery boat. She languished in a boatyard until she was rescued and brought back to life by skilled volunteers at the Finger Lakes Boating Museum. She will return to service to tour passengers again on Keuka Lake soon.
Where to Eat Around Hammondsport
Park Inn Restaurant
Next door to the Park Inn is The Park Inn Restaurant. With Chef Dan Eaton in the kitchen, this fine dining establishment has a relaxed, casual vibe with a top-notch bar and wine selection. Chef Eaton has a long career in Rochester’s top restaurants. He staged at Bouley in New York and Auberge du Soleil & The French Laundry in Napa, California, and created over 3,000 recipe segments for his television program, “Cooking at Home” on Time Warner Cable. Chef Eaton’s philosophy highlights the organic produce and products of the Finger Lakes in his dishes. And to bring more attention to the incredible wine and craft beverages produced in the Finger Lakes. Wine Spectator awarded the Park Inn’s wine list the 2020 Award of Excellence.
Timber Stone Grill
Timber Stone Grill serves casual American food featuring locally sourced ingredients and meats. The menu has everything from salads and sandwiches to steaks and seafood, all served in a relaxed setting. The portions are generous and can easily be shared if you want to split a few entrees and a starter. The craft beer and beverage list are extensive, and the bar creates crafted cocktails. The service is warm and friendly, making this a wonderful place to enjoy a great lunch or dinner.
Crooked Lake Ice Cream Company
Crooked Lake Ice Cream Company is a two-minute walk from Keuka Lake and serves up breakfast, lunch, and ice cream for 30 years. It’s a local favorite fusing a 50’s diner feel with a modern menu.
In 2018, new owners gave the building a facelift and updated the menu while keeping its historic charm. House specialties like avocado toast, Eggs Benedict, or a simple stack of pancakes are served up all day, starting at 7:00 am. Lunch begins at 11:00, and ice cream is served anytime. It is a great place to start your day or grab a milkshake for the road.
For additional recommendations, click here.
The Great Outdoors in Finger Lakes
The weather in the Finger Lakes in the fall can change dramatically throughout the weekend. In fact, there is a saying, “If you don’t like the weather in the Finger Lakes, wait a few minutes.” When we arrived, it was warm, sunny, and 65 degrees, so we decided to take a hike on the Mitchellsville Gorge Trail, an easy 2.2-mile hike up and back that starts and ends in the same vineyard. It is easy to moderate and suitable for a range of ability levels. You will cross a wooden footbridge over a creek and walk uphill to spy a gorge with a beautiful vista. Just park for free at Urbana Town Hall & Justice Court on Pleasant Valley Road in Bath, NY, and walk across the street to see the trail marker to begin your hike. For other outdoor suggestions, click here.
Our last day started with snow and turned to rain. We took that time to explore the two museums mentioned in this article. There are lovely shops and antique stores too. There are plenty of things to do inside, it just depends on how you like to spend your time. Remember to make reservations so that you can be sure to enjoy the tasting rooms and restaurants of your choosing.
Hammondsport, The Coolest Small Town in America
Set aside a few days to come visit Hammondsport in the Finger Lakes Region of New York. Find out for yourself why Hammondsport has been called “the Coolest Small Town” and “one of the 25 Best Small Lake Towns” in America.
Jeanine Consoli is a freelance travel writer, photographer, and foodie based in Washington Crossing, Pennsylvania. A retired elementary school teacher, she used her summers to feed her passion for travel and kept journals of all the destinations she explored. Today, Jeanine is working as a writer full-time. She loves uncovering the history and understanding the culture of each location, including the local flavors of each unique place. She has traveled extensively in the United States and Europe and is excited to keep adding to the list, finding unique sites that are off the beaten path both at home and abroad.