Harpers Ferry – A Day Trip from DC
Table of Contents
Stories and photos by Roxie LaFever (unless otherwise indicated)
Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
Ready to get out of the city? Not much time but want to escape the “rat race” or “stay at home” lasted too long and there is a need to head to the great outdoors where social distancing is easier? Harpers Ferry may be the perfect solution, and it is only an hour’s drive from Washington, DC.
Wedged in a corner between the state lines of Virginia, Maryland and West Virginia is Harpers Ferry. Historically significant during the Civil War, this crossroad is known for its national park, great hiking, and small-town feel. So close they seem almost one town, be sure to also visit Bolivar, WV. Bolivar is the larger of the two towns – and it’s less than a single square mile. It is estimated that the next census will reflect slightly more than 1,000 people. Harpers Ferry has just over 300 people.
The drive out will be mostly interstate, but as you get close the area is rolling hills, green grass, and beautiful wooded areas. Harpers Ferry is where the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers meet. The land in this area was originally bought from Lord Fairfax by two settlers – Robert Harper and Gersham Keyes. Seeing a need, Harper, a Philadelphia Architect, ran a ferry service to transport locals across the Shenandoah River. As the map shows, this was the only direct route for travelers and became a stronghold for keeping the “other side” at bay during the Civil War. Gersham Keyes started many of the trading stores in the area among the now historic homes.
Harpers Ferry was a Focal Point of the Civil War
Harpers Ferry was a focal point of the Civil War due to being strategically located between the north and south during the Civil War. It was also at the center of transportation in those days either by Potomac or Shenandoah Rivers, the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Just days after the first Civil War attack at Fort Sumter, the Virginia militia under Stonewall Jackson marched on Harpers Ferry and torched the US Armory and Arsenal, destroying over 15,000 weapons. Those not destroyed and all machinery and tools from the armory were shipped south to the Confederacy in Richmond, VA, and Fayetteville, NC. Just six weeks after taking over Harpers Ferry, the US Armory building and B&O Railroad bridge were burned as the Confederates evacuated.
During the Battle of Harpers Ferry in September of 1862, the South, under the command of Confederate General Robert E. Lee, surrounded the Union Garrison on three sides. After two days of battle, approximately 12,500 Federal troops were forced to surrender in the largest surrender of Federal troops in American history (until Bataan in World War II). About 1,500 Union calvary were able to escape through the Bolivar Lines under cover of darkness.
Over the four years of the war (1861-1865), Harpers Ferry changed hands eight times, but remained under Union control for 80 percent of the war. On April 9, 1865, General Lee surrendered to General Grant at the Appomattox Court House in Appomattox, VA. Five days later President Lincoln was assassinated.
Who was John Brown?
A controversial character best known for his raid on Harpers Ferry, John Brown became the first person executed for treason in the history of the United States. He was hanged for leading a raid on the Harpers Ferry Armory in 1859 (before the start of the Civil War) with the intention of arming slaves in support of his lifelong anti-slavery convictions.
Under the tutelage of his father, he was raised in a household and several Northern communities, all dedicated to anti-slavery. Their homes or businesses served as part of the Underground Railroad, assisting slaves to escape to free states. His level of involvement even brought him face-to-face with well-known abolitionists like Frederick Douglass and Harriet Tubman.
Unfortunately, his conviction, once peaceful, became deadly at the raid on Harpers Ferry and led to his undoing. During the raid, seven people were killed and another ten or so were injured. Within 36 hours after the raid, all of Brown’s men were either killed or captured. He was tried for treason against the Commonwealth of Virginia and hanged.
During just one part of his life (before that fateful night), from the year 1825 to 1835, it is estimated that he saved 2,500 slaves.
John Brown’s Raid and his Trial increased tensions around slavery that eventually led to the start of the Civil War less than two years later. Please visit the John Brown Wax Museum to hear more about why and how lives were impacted by John Brown.
Where to Play
In addition to museums dedicated to the Civil War and John Brown, another favorite activity in Harpers Ferry is hiking the trails. This corner of the world is where three national trails all meet: 1) the Appalachian Trail, which goes from Georgia to Maine, 2) the C&O Canal Trail, which follows along the Potomac back to Washington, DC, and 3) the Potomac Heritage Trail, which overlaps the C&O Trail but then continues to the Chesapeake Bay.
You can also explore other well-maintained trails at Bolivar Heights or inside the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.
Downtown offers a bit of shopping amongst all the historical buildings, including stores from the past like the Dry Goods Store or Fancy Goods. The Sears & Roebuck mail-order business did not start until 1886 – twenty years after the Civil War.
Where to Stay in Harpers Ferry
For a small town, there are many low cost options of where to stay, ranging from the Quality Inn or Clarion Inn, or if you travel by RV – the KOA Campground. For a more historical perspective, there are also eleven Bed and Breakfast establishments in Harpers Ferry like The Ledge House, which is located inside the National Park and offers views of the Harpers Ferry Gap from its balconies and private suites. Another is the Light Horse Inn, which is one of the most historic homes in the area at 225 years, and is also highly rated.
Where to Eat
Check any restaurant rating app, and easily find all the details on any restaurants in the area. Start your day at the Country Café serving American-style breakfast, lunch, and brunch along with neighborly service. Or drop by The Anvil Restaurant, serving fresh seafood or a wide selection of American food. Rest assured that while you are having friendly discussions at the bar over a relaxing beverage, you can feel safe knowing that all steps have been taken to ensure compliance with COVID-19 requirements.
For the Most Up-To-Date Information
Since it’s 2020 and openings and circumstances may change, please check the Bolivar website www.bolivarwv.org for the latest updates. For example, the Footbridge Repairs at Harpers Ferry are scheduled to be completed by the end of July – but that could be impacted by weather delays.
The “Safer at Home Sign” shown was posted based on an April 5th restriction by the State Board of Health but the town is now undergoing a phased reopening. Many improvements have been made since then to ensure social distancing and mask-wearing to keep everyone safe. Do not hesitate to visit now or in the future and check out the site and find even more fun things to do in Harpers Ferry.
Based in the Washington, DC metropolitan area, Roxie LaFever likes her town but knows she needs to explore the world and search out her own truth. Without creating even an “unofficial bucket list,” she’s been to all 7 continents, seen all 7 Wonders of the World and over 40 countries. With each trip – she tries to identify a way to step out of her comfort zone – and grow. Whether she’s jumping off a mountain in Rio to hang-glide down to the beach, exploring the world’s largest waterfalls by ultra-lite or zodiac, hiking at high altitudes in Bhutan and Peru, or doing the “Walk of Faith” on the world’s longest glass bridge in China, you’ll want to travel along. In addition to freelance travel writing and photography, Roxie manages a lifestyle and travel blog at www.RoamingwithRoxie.com.