Play, Stay, and Eat in Carmel, California
Table of Contents
Story and photos by Scott Kendall (unless otherwise indicated)
Carmel-by-the-Sea Overview
The hugely popular Carmel-by-the-Sea is a little slice of heaven on the California Coast. Along with nearby Pebble Beach, Monterey, and Point Lobos, Carmel-by-the-Sea (also referred to as Carmel in this article) is a prime destination for those wanting to relax and enjoy this piece of paradise. Point Lobos State Reserve is a rocky peninsula with million dollar views, where deer, sea lions, and birds share the area with human visitors.
Because of its unparalleled beauty, Carmel has long attracted artistic types. Countless painters, writers, poets, musicians, actors, and other creative folks have made Carmel home. Come for a visit, and you will soon know why.
Hofsas House
Hofsas House is the perfect place to stay when visiting Carmel-by-the-Sea. This small boutique hotel is a careful blend of European elegance and local family warmth.
Currently managed and run by Carrie Theis and her mother, Doris, Hofsas House has been run by the same family since its inception in the late 1940’s. The original four cottages have been added to over the years, and now include 37 uniquely decorated rooms. From our third level balcony, we had wonderful views of the treetops and the Pacific Ocean. Our spacious room, with a hand-painted headboard and a corner fireplace, was a beautiful, spacious home for our two days in Carmel.
We loved that we could walk to the shops, dinner, and the beach from Hofsas House. In fact, we were less than five minutes by foot from Bistro Giovanni and 5th Avenue Deli. It was also a pleasant walk to Ocean Avenue, where we turned right and soon found ourselves at the beach.
SUR at the Barnyard Restaurant of Carmel
SUR at the Barnyard is an extremely popular restaurant in Carmel. Operating partners Billy Quon and his wife, Teresa, have continued the great tradition they started over a dozen years ago when they started the popular Bixby Martini Bistro in the same location just off Highway 1.
SUR at the Barnyard was recently named Carmel Small Restaurant of the Year, an honor voted on by local business owners. Walking through the picturesque courtyard of the Barnyard Shopping Center, we were immediately greeted by the friendly staff of SUR.
Billy was out and about, greeting customers with an easy smile. During our evening, it was apparent that there were many regular local diners mixed in with the tourists out to enjoy the evening.
I had a delicious Sea Bass with a flavorful pineapple beurre blanc sauce topped with jumbo shrimp, served with tender mixed vegetables. My wife was equally pleased with the outstanding Signature Beet Salad. This salad consists of marinated organic red beets, mixed greens, Fuji apple, pecans, crumbled Point Reyes blue cheese, and goat cheese in a tasty balsamic dressing.
For dessert we had a double treat. We started with a slice of the uniquely flavored Lilikoi Pie, made with Passion Fruit. Following this irresistible pie, we were treated to a spectacular show, the Arctic Ice-Cream Bon Bons. An eerie cloud of fog enveloped the chocolate coated bon bon. We were mesmerized by the special effects, and then dug into the ice cream paired with fixings of crushed nuts, caramel topping, fudge topping, and sprinkles.
In addition to the excellent Sea Bass and Beet Salad we enjoyed, SUR at the Barnyard’s eclectic menu includes something for everyone. Seafood, steaks, Asian dishes, and more. And don’t miss out on SUR’s famous chicken and waffles, fried chicken, hearty burgers, and an assortment of sandwiches. I saw so many great looking dishes on diners’ tables and on the menu that I could eat at SUR at the Barnyard every day for a month and savor something different every day. Billy and Teresa are definitely doing it right!
Bistro Giovanni in Carmel
Just a few blocks from Hofsas House, Bistro Giovanni is one of the best loved restaurants in downtown Carmel. Firok Shield’s successful Italian/Mediterranean restaurant is a classy but casual place where diners can relax in a beautiful atmosphere while enjoying extraordinary food and drinks at a reasonable price.
The exceptionally talented kitchen creates outstanding dishes like slow-roasted short ribs that fall off the bone, certified Angus steaks, tender lamb, sefood, and mouth watering pasta dishes. My wife had the delicious Halibut in wine and caper sauce. I thoroughly enjoyed the Misto Di Mare, a brilliant combination of prawns, scallops and artichoke hearts in a light garlic cream sauce over linguini.
Another famous dish is Papa’s Cioppino, a classic seafood stew with a bit of everything from the sea. Shrimp, scallops, clams, mussels, and fish seasoned with our Italian spices in a hearty tomato broth.
The friendly but professional staff was outstanding. Attentive without smothering, our waiter, Jack, answered our food and wine questions and frequently checked on us. I would very highly recommend Bistro Giovanni’s as a must visit in Carmel. Firok, Jack, and the rest of the team will take great care of you.
Downtown Carmel
Downtown Carmel is a delightful collection of shops, restaurants, galleries, and cottages. Visitors and locals alike happily stroll through this walkable downtown area bordered by the expansive Carmel beach on the west side.
From the Hofsas House, we took many leisurely walks through downtown and to the beach. We found an endearing statue, The Valentine, of a loving elderly couple at the southeast corner of the park. This touching work of art by George Wayne Lundeen can be found on the corner of Sixth and Lincoln, which is also a bus stop.
As expected, most restaurants have great wine lists, and many tasting rooms dot the downtown area. We stopped into Scheid Tasting Room at San Carlos St. and 7th Ave. We tried several nice wines, and especially enjoyed a crisp Chardonnay.
Carmel is also know for the celebrities who have lived in and frequently visited Carmel. A few of the many recognizable names include Clint Eastwood, Doris Day, Jack London, John Madden, and Joan Fontaine. We visited Hogsbreath Inn (formerly owned by Eastwood) and a small Doris Day display at her former hotel, the Cypress Inn. Many other images and mentions of celebrities are scattered throughout the restaurants, galleries, shops, museums, and other places in Carmel.
5th Avenue Deli & Catering in Downtown Carmel
The 5th Avenue Deli & Catering Co., downtown near the Post Office, is the perfect place for a quick bite. Whether you are looking for breakfast, lunch, or the makings for a great picnic lunch, 5th Avenue Deli is the place. In addition to sandwiches, soups, and a nice variety of other delectable delights, you can grab a bottle of wine or two. 5th Avenue Deli also specializes in catering group events, so call ahead and they’ll have your order ready to pick up.
Carmel Beach
Carmel is a very special destination in so many ways. The icing on the cake is the beautiful beach on the west edge of town, within an easy walk from anywhere downtown. We walked from the Hofsas House several times to the beach and drove once. We had to drive around for a few minutes to find a parking spot, but found one rather quickly.
The wide, sandy beaches on the western edge of town have plenty of room to walk, play, or just relax. You can even join the surfers, parasailers, and swimmers if you are so inclined. Just be aware that in this part of California waters are a bit chilly.
The views are gorgeous. From the beach, you can look north towards Pebble Beach and 17 Mile Drive, or south towards Point Lobos. Fans of Frank Lloyd Wright can even see the famous Clinton Walker House on the south end of the beach.
Point Lobos, California's Crown Jewel
Point Lobos State Natural Reserve is often referred to as “the crown jewel of the State Park System.” The magnificent views of the mighty Pacific Ocean remind us of the grandeur of Mother Nature and the gifts we have been given. This well-maintained treasure is the ideal place to hike, relax, and contemplate its beauty.
In addition to the spectacular scenery, visitors may encounters deer, sea lions, seagulls, pelicans, and other wildlife.
A few details to be aware of:
- Park hours are 8 am till 7 pm
- $10 fee per vehicle
- No dogs
- Bikes allowed on road but not on trails
- No camping
- No alcohol
Come See Carmel-by-the-Sea, California
With its spectacular scenery, charming downtown, great restaurants, art galleries, and scenic beach, Carmel-by-the-Sea is the place to be. Be sure to plan ahead for best choices and prices, as lodgings can be booked well in advance at this popular destination.
Scott Kendall is the Founder, Editor, and frequent contributor to PlayStayEat. He is a former Navy Officer, teacher and tennis coach who is an avid traveler and writer. Scott has traveled extensively throughout the United States and overseas to Italy, France, England, Croatia, Slovenia, and others. In addition to his contributions to PlayStayEat, much of his published work can be seen at scottkendalltravels.com.