Overview of Lima, Peru
Table of Contents
Stories by Kerrie-Anne Riles and photos by Kerrie-Anne and Alan Riles (unless otherwise indicated)
Map of Peru
Machu Picchu is on everyone’s bucket list. In their eagerness to get to Machu Picchu they fly, usually a considerable distance, into Lima and often hop on the next available plane to their ultimate goal. Unfortunately this means they miss taking advantage of the many things Lima has to offer.
When planning your next holiday would you like to visit a top culinary destination, a top cultural destination or the best tourist destination in South America?
No need for a hard decision. Do all three!
World Travel Awards
At the World Travel Awards, known as the Oscars of the Travel Industry, held in Bolivia in July 2019, Peru was awarded the top culinary destination of the world for the eighth year in a row.
Peru was also awarded the leading destination in South America for:
- Leading hotel: Swissôtel Lima
- Leading business hotel: Swissôtel Lima
- Leading Culinary Destination
- Leading Cultural Destination
- Leading Tourist Destination: Machu Picchu
- Leading Tourist Board
Location
Situated on the west coast of Peru, Lima, the capital, is a city of 10,555,000 people.
Most Limeños live in apartments, whether high-rise luxury or far more modest ones with a view of the apartment next door. So we are blessed with an open space view of verdant fairways of the Lima Country Club.
Weather
Lima is located in a subtropical desert with a warm season from December to April and a cooler season from June to October. During the cooler season the sky is almost perpetually cloudy with fog and surprisingly high humidity.
It never rains in Lima. Not real rain. Garúa–the finest mist– is all you ever see. Lima is said to be the driest capital city in the world receiving barely 0.24in per year. However there are many parks and green spaces that rely on regular watering.
In the more affluent areas it is not dry or dusty and large trees thrive. Huge water tankers with a man standing precariously on the top, with only a low safety rail, circle the suburbs and water the many trees as water gushes from a huge pipe like a fire hose.
Money
Currency in Peru is the Peruvian Nuevo Sol.
The exchange rate is approximately 3.2 to 3.3 soles to the US dollar in March 2020.
History
The area surrounding Lima was inhabited for thousands of years by the pre-Incas. Having defeated the Incas, Pizzaro founded the city of Lima on Jan. 18, 1535. He called it the Ciudad de los Reyes (“City of the Kings”) because it was founded on the catholic religious holiday of Three Kings. The original Incan capital, Cusco, was replaced by Limaq because of its proximity to the ocean and therefore easier access to Spain. The original inhabitants had called the area Limaq but the Spanish could not pronounce the “q” so it became Lima and soon developed into the center for wealth and power and became the viceroyalty of Peru.
The first strike or “saya and manto conspiracy” in Peru occurred in Lima. From the early viceregal period to the Republican era, Limeñan woman adopted the custom of wearing the “saya and manto”. The saya was a tight waisted overskirt worn short above the ankles and the manto was a thick veil fastened at the back of the waist which then draped over the head then tightly concealing all the face except for one eye. This allowed women to go out into the street in total anonymity. Numerous failed attempts were made to try to legally ban the wearing of the saya and manto. The attempts failed because the Limeñas simply refused to carry out normal duties expected of women.
Peru was the last country in South America to claim independence from Spain.
Transportation
I do not recommend hiring a car when visiting Lima. The traffic is chaotic! Taxis are cheap, provided you find out the cost first. The best and safest way to get a taxi is to use an app to call, such as Satelite or Cabify. Uber is also available but does not have a reliable reputation. It is not recommended just taking a taxi in the street.
Buses are also cheap. There are two types, the larger, cleaner public buses or the even cheaper privately owned buses, but you may have to learn how to get on or off while the bus is still moving! Not for me!
Another fun transport option is the moto taxi. Only allowed in the outer suburbs of Lima, they are basically a motorbike with a tent or fiberglass shell around them with a seat for two passengers. Electric scooters that you hire casually through an app are also very popular.
Accommodations
The main tourist area in Lima is Miraflores, with magnificent views of the Pacific coastline. There are many high-end hotels in Miraflores such as the Marriot. In the quieter neighboring suburb of San Isidro there are hotels such as the Country Club Lima Hotel. While Miraflores is usually filled with tourists, San Isidro is more for business travelers. There seems to be no end of interesting places to dine within walking distance of the hotels. Both areas have many green parks.
There are also many lower priced Hospedaje–lodgings– and backpackers.
Drinks
Chicha Morada
You cannot visit anywhere in Peru without trying a pisco sour, believed to be invented by America bar tender Victor Morris in the 1920’s when he ran out or whisky to make whisky sours. Pisco, a wine grown in the Pisco area of Ica, south of Lima, is combined with lemon juice, sugar syrup and egg white then shaken vigorously with ice cubes to form a cloudy, frothy cocktail. (for me the espuma–froth– on the top is the best part so ask for a spoon and don’t waste it in the bottom of the glass!)
With its origins in the Andes, chicha morada is a pleasant tasting healthy fruit drink made from purple corn. It is boiled for a very long time with pineapple skins and spices. It is high in antioxidants and is said to lower blood pressure and cholesterol. Not to be confused with Chicha de jora another corn based drink that is alcoholic. Chica de jora also contains chicha morada in small quantities but is usually a pale beer color.
Coca Tea
Imagine planning the trip of a lifetime but not being able to enjoy it fully because of the effects of altitude sickness. Although Lima is at sea level, many people are planning activities in higher altitudes after Lima. It is therefore sensible to prepare yourself for the change. There are several medications that can be purchased, but the Peruvian “natural” way is to drink tea made from coca leaves.
–Mate de coca– or coca leaf tea, is commonly sold in supermarkets here in Peru (but you are unlikely to find it anywhere else in the world outside South America). Not finding the tea particularly palatable, I prefer to suck coca lollies, also readily available. The leaves can also be included in cooking and some of the world’s top chefs here in Lima are including them in their exotic creations.
Water
Lima’s water flows from the Andes in the Rimac River but sadly it is not suitable to drink. Bottled or boiled water is the only safe water and in some areas it is also advisable to clean your teeth in bottled water. We also made our ice cubes from a bottle. Bottled water is very cheap.
Food
Lima is fast becoming known as the gastronomic capital of the world with many of its top chef winning international culinary awards every year. In recent years there has been a renewed interest in using traditional Peruvian ingredients and showcasing their diversity. Peru is blessed with food sources available from the Andes mountains, Amazon Jungle, and the long coastline providing an abundant bounty from the sea.
Cooking schools are popular in Lima whether for professionals or home cooks.
Best known of all Peruvian food is ceviché found in almost every restaurant and traditionally eaten only for lunch when the fish is freshest. Ceviché is basically cubes of raw fish that have been marinated in a mixture of lemon and chili, known as tiger’s milk. Our preference is a variation called Tiradito that is made with fine slices of fish and various less acidic marinades.
There are many unique grains grown in the Andes. Quinoa has been grown in the Andes for over 5 thousand years and is now exported throughout the world as a “super food”.
(Depending on which account you read) Peru claims to have between 3000 and 4000 varieties of potatoes! Many are ancient potatoes that have been grown in the Andes for centuries. These potatoes all have different uses including Chuńo– a flour used for thickening– and harina de camote –sweet potato flour– used in bread and a favorite donut shaped dessert drizzled in honey called Picarones. The most famous potato dish is Causa. This is basically a compressed roll of yellow mashed potato flavored lightly with chili that is filled with a protein, usually fish or chicken, and mayonnaise. You will find a version of this on almost every menu.
In the late 19th century Chinese male immigrants came to Peru to work in cane fields and the guano mines. As the immigrants progressed financially they began to import and grow their traditional Chinese ingredients not available in Peru. At the same time Peruvian chefs began to incorporate Chinese ingredients such as kion–ginger– and Sillao–soy sauce– in their cooking for the aristocracy. The first Chinese Peruvian restaurants were opened in Lima around 1920 and were given the name Chifa, derived from the Cantonese words which mean “to cook rice or a meal” to describe the fusion of elements of Chinese and Peruvian cuisines. Calle Capón, Lima’s chinatown, also known as Barrio Chino de Lima, became the western hemisphere’s earliest Chinatown. Currently, there are over 6,000 chifa restaurants in Lima.
The 19th century also saw Japanese immigrants in Peru. In 1889, nearly 7,000 male Japanese miners and railroad workers, lured by the promise of jobs, traveled to Peru. After their two-year contract, some Japanese decided to stay in Peru and opened small restaurants in their homes. Serving Peruvian food at first, they gradually introduced small changes in ingredients and methods. These small adjustments paved the way for a unique cultural merging on the plate of Nikkei cuisine.
As with Chifa, the Japanese Peruvian fusion food has combined the best of these cuisines. The main reason that Japanese Peruvian food has fused so well is their mutual love of fresh seafood and the readily available source from the ocean.
In 2019 Nikkei restaurant, Maido in Lima, won the No.1 spot for the third consecutive year, retaining its status as The Best Restaurant in Latin America. It is interesting to note that Peru has the second largest ethnic Japanese population in South America.
Shopping
If shopping is your travel pleasure you will not be disappointed. There are many interesting options. Real Plaza Salaverry in Jesus Maria and Jockey Plaza in Santiago de Surco are huge shopping malls with all the international brand shops you would expect.
Hidden from view is Lacomar shopping complex, built into the side of a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean in Miraflores with many al fresco dining options.
Souvenirs
Of course you can buy many mass produced tourist souvenirs, but there are many quality examples of artisan crafts to take home.
Alpacas were domesticated 5000 years ago and raised by pre-Inca civilizations. They were mainly raised for their meat and fiber. The fleece of Alpacas is used widely in weaving. It is extremely warm and may be dyed using natural dyes. Baby alpaca is the softest and most expensive. Shawls and knitted garments are plentiful. At some markets you can buy alpaca yarn for knitting and crocheting. Garments made of vicuña, an animal believed to be the ancestor of alpacas, are also available but they are extremely expensive due to the fineness of the fiber and are usually sold in exclusive shops rather than markets.
Toritos de Pucara – Pucara Bulls– are souvenir examples that represent part of Peru’s cultural heritage. Traditionally, a pair of Pucara Bulls were given to the bride and groom at a wedding. They were then placed on the roof for good luck with an ornamental ladder to assist the spirit of the owner to eventually ascend to heaven. You may see these on the roofs of houses if you travel in Cusco or Puno. The hand made clay bulls are painted with Andean symbols in significant colors to represent a particular good luck wish such as prosperity or longevity.
Superstitions
Some ancient Peruvian superstitions continue today. For a few soles you can have your future read in coca leaves by a coca leaf whisperer.
Activities
- An evening at the Magic Water Park
- Swimming with Sea Lions
- Learn Peruvian Cooking
- Learn Spanish
- Shop at Lacomar
- Browse in the Markets
- Hire a scooter
- Take a bus tour
- Visit Museo Larco
- Visit Pre-Inca archeological sights such as Huaca Pucllana or Huaca Huallamarca
- Take a Gourmet Food Tour
Free activities:
- Stroll along the Malecón
- “Dar un Paseo” in the Olive Park
- Admire the view from El Christo
- Choco Museo
- Walking food tour
- Barranco night tour
Night time in Lima presents a whole new assortment of activities. Limeños eat late so don’t be surprised if you are the first ones at a restaurant. A lot of restaurants and bars have live music but they will probably not start before about 10.00pm. Foodie’s night tours are popular such as the Gourmet Food Tour’s Evening Experience where you will experience Lima’s chic and bohemian sides in Barranco while feasting on gourmet recipes and learning about Lima’s culture through its cuisine.
Experience the bohemian side of Lima at Barranco, where artists and writers choose to live, on Strawberry Tour’s free night-time walking tour. As with the daytime tour you will be guided by qualified tour guides. First visiting the Barranco Beer Company where you can sample their beer straight from the barrel. Then go on to Ayahuasca, a 19th century mansion transformed into a bar.
Hold your breath at The Puente de los Suspiros–the Bridge of Sighs. Built in 1876 to span a small gap over a stream-cut gorge to connect Ayacucho Street with the Church of the Hermitage on the other side of the stream. Destroyed during the War of the Pacific in 1881 and rebuilt two years later. Legend says that those who see the bridge for the first time are entitled to a single wish if they can cross its 30-meter span in one breath.
Visiting three other bars, you will learn how to make Pisco Sours and Pisco Chilcanos the two most popular drinks in Peru. This is a great way to get to know some of the best bars in Barranco and is ideal if you are traveling alone. The tour is free and you are welcome to purchase drinks and snacks along the way.
Be dazzled by an evening at the Magic Circuit Water Park as the spurting water fountains change shape and color. There are some bus tours that will take you to dine first or for an evening drive around the city then to the park.
The Tourist Information Center: 799 Avenida Jose Larco in Miraflores
Kerrie-Anne Riles is an Australian freelance travel writer who lived in Peru for two and a half years. She has lived in seven different countries and travels extensively. Her travel writing includes traveling to unusual places and quirky travel experiences, luxury travel, especially cruising and train trips, and gluten free cooking and restaurants.
Member: International Travel Writers and Photographers Alliance, International Travel Writers Alliance, TravMedia