Play, Stay, Eat in St. Petersburg, Florida

Story and photos by Chris Cutler (unless noted otherwise)

St. Petersburg skyline from Alfred Whitted Park © Chris Cutler
St. Petersburg skyline from Alfred Whitted Park © Chris Cutler
As much as I love warm weather, I swore to my husband that I would never move to Florida. We were living in the desert in Las Vegas, and I loved it there. When our son and daughter-in-law moved to the Tampa area, we drove around the bay area while visiting them and stopped in Downtown St. Petersburg for coffee. Something about the city enchanted me, and four years later, we are living about three blocks from that Starbucks.

St. Petersburg, Florida

Located on the large Pinellas Peninsula that separates Tampa Bay from the Gulf of Mexico, St. Petersburg, Florida, is a vibrant city filled with museums, parks, marinas, activity, and sunshine. Once a retirement haven for northerners in search of sunshine and warmth, St. Pete earned the nickname “God’s Waiting Room.” Today, however, residents of all ages call St. Pete home thanks to its lively art scene, relatively low cost of living, and great weather.

A Little History

The Calusa Indians long inhabited the coastal area and inner waterways of the southwest Florida coast from Tampa south. Known more as fishermen and sailors than framers, the Calusa used fishbones and seashells to make utensils, tools, jewelry, and ornaments.  In addition, they were ferocious warriors (Calusa means “fierce people.”) and regularly targeted explorers in the region.

In 1539, Hernando de Soto was one of the first Spanish explorers to visit the area, but it was not until the mid-1840s that people began settling the area. John C. Williams, a Detroit native, purchased 1600 acres of land in the area in 1875. He and his wife convinced Peter Demens, a Russian immigrant and owner of the Orange Belt Railway, to build the railway’s terminus on land Williams owned. The first train arrived on June 8, 1888 carrying one passenger and no freight.

Sunset over the Bay © Chris Cutler
Sunset over the Bay © Chris Cutler

The city grew, though, and was incorporated as a town in 1892 and a city in 1903. Legend has it that Williams and Demens tossed a coin to see who would name the new town. As winner, Demens named it after St. Petersburg, Russia, his hometown.

After the two men built St. Petersburg’s first hotel, Williams got to name it after his birthplace; the Detroit Hotel still exists today, although it is now condos.

The City Grows

Incorporated as a city in 1903, St. Petersburg continued to grow. On January 1, 1914, Tony Jannus flew an airboat from St. Pete to Tampa across Tampa Bay, the world’s first commercial flight. Like the first train to arrive in St. Petersburg, the plane carried one passenger.  After that, there were two flights per day to and from St. Pete and Tampa. Prior to that, the journey took five hours by train or by slow steamboat across the bay.

Later in 1914, Branch Rickey brought the St. Louis Browns to St. Pete for spring training, thus beginning the city’s—and the state’s—relationship with baseball. The following year, the Carnegie Foundation funded the city’s first library; it still exists by Mirror Lake today. The opening of the Gandy Bridge some nine years later cut road travel time to Tampa in half, and people flocked to the city.

During World War II, St. Petersburg served as a technical services training center for the Army Air Corps and training base for the U.S. Coast Guard. After the war, the servicemen and women returned to the area, air conditioning became the norm, and residential and commercial development increased. The population exploded, and the city grew.

Modern Day St. Petersburg

While tourism is still St. Petersburg’s major industry, the city offers visitors and residents alike with a variety of cultural, artistic, sports, culinary, and outdoorsy activities. The city is home to more than 11 museums (including the world-famous Dali and Chihuly Museums), 137 parks, hiking and biking trails, botanical gardens, an arboretum, the south’s largest city marina, and Tropicana Field, home to the Tampa Bay Rays.

Today St. Pete is consistently ranked as one of the best cities for living, visiting, and retiring. The International Cities of Peace recognized St. Pete as an International City of Peace, an honor given to only one other Florida city.
Gisella Kopsick Arboretum © Chris Cutler
Gisella Kopsick Arboretum © Chris Cutler

Weather in St. Petersburg

Relax in a hammock © Chris Cutler on a St. Pete beach
Relax in a hammock © Chris Cutler

Holding the record for the most consecutive sunny days in a row (768), St. Petersburg averages 361 days of sunshine each year. “The Sunshine City,” as it is known, enjoys an average temperature of 74 degrees. That said, while the weather is warm year-round, you might still experience cooler days and nights during the late fall and winter.

Hurricane season runs from June 1 through November 30, and summer gets the most rain. If you plan to visit during hurricane season, download the American Red Cross’s hurricane app to keep up with storm information.

How to Get to St. Petersburg

St. Petersburg is in the unique position of having three international airports within 30 miles of the city. St. Pete–Clearwater International Airport is the closest to the city and is home to four low-cost airlines that serve about one million passengers per year. Tampa International Airport, the largest airport in the area, is only about 16 miles from Downtown St. Pete. More than 20 airlines service 22 million passengers annually. At a distance of 27 miles, the Sarasota-Bradenton International Airport is the farthest from St. Pete.

Arriving via car is easy, too. If you are driving from the north, once you get to Tampa on I-75, take I-275 S to St. Pete. From the south, take I-275 N from Bradenton (and enjoy the views from the Sunshine Skyway Bridge).

Play in "The Sunshine City"

While most St. Petersburg visitors spend time at the area’s award-winning beaches, there are many more experiences for every age group. The now-defunct American Style Magazine, a magazine for art, collectors, and cultural travelers, declared St. Petersburg’s “vibrant” arts scene” the best among all mid-size cities in the US. Conde Naste Traveler named the city as  being a “perfect” getaway, and maketimetoseetheworld.com recognized its street art scene as among the best in the world. USA Today named the St. Pete Pier as one of 2020’s Best New Attractions, and Smart Asset declared the city one of the most dog-friendly cities in the country.

Play sand volleyball © Chris Cutler
Play sand volleyball © Chris Cutler
Fish in the bay © Chris Cutler
Fish in the bay © Chris Cutler
Take some time to enjoy the view © Chris Cutler
Take some time to enjoy the view © Chris Cutler

Top 20 Things to Do in St. Petersburg

  1. Stroll the Petersburg Pier.
  2. Play a game of shuffleboard at the Petersburg Shuffleboard Club
  3. Watch the Tampa Bay Rays “catch line drives” at Tropicana Stadium.
  4. Admire more than 500 palms and cycads at the Gizella Kopsick Arboretum.
  5. Visit the flamingos at the Sunken Gardens.
  6. Gaze in wonder at the exhibits in one of the city’s museums.
  7. Sunbathe on one of the area’s award-winning beaches.
  8. Rent a canoe and float the waterways of Weedon Island Preserve.
  9. Cheer the Tampa Bay Rowdies at Al Lang Stadium.
  10. Go shopping at the shops, eateries, and galleries along Beach Drive.
  11. Connect with the community at the Petersburg Saturday Morning Market.
  12. Take in a show at the Mahaffey Theater.
  13. Play frisbee with Fido on dog-friendly beaches.
  14. Take a tour of Downtown St. Pete on the Downtown Looper Trolley.
  15. Skip the bridge traffic and take the Cross-Bay Ferry to Tampa.
  16. Take a self-guided tour of the city’s street art.
  17. Pedal your way through St. Pete by renting an electric bike or scooter.
  18. Cast your line in the area’s waters.
  19. Introduce yourself to citrus wine at Florida Orange Groves Winery.
  20. Tour historic Fort De Soto.

Outdoor Activities

As I noted above, most tourists who visit St. Pete head to one of the area’s award-winning beaches at some time. No matter where you are—downtown, on a beach, on the intercostal, or on a bridge, you’re sure to see people enjoying being outside.

With so much water surrounding St. Pete, you can always find somewhere to windsurf or kite board when the wind picks up. Skimboarding and Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP) have gained in popularity, too. For those who prefer being on the water instead of in it, you can rent a kayak or take a boat tour.

Prefer to keep your feet on the ground and out of the sand? You’ll find more than 20 hiking trails that wander through federal, state, regional, county, and city parks, greenways, forests, and natural areas all over the peninsula. As with most activities in the area, these trails offer everything from kid-friendly paths to kayak trails through critter-filled waters.

Since St. Pete’s great weather allows golfers to play almost year-round, you’ll find more than 40 golf courses of all levels in the area. Whether you hit the links at the municipal course at Mangrove Bay or just watch the PGA Valspar Championship at Copperhead Course at Innisbrook Resort and Golf Club, you can swing into the fun at any level.

St. Pete Pier

View of the St. Pete Pier from Vinoy Park © Chris Cutler
View of the St. Pete Pier from Vinoy Park © Chris Cutler

For over 100 years, there has been a pier jutting from 1st Avenue South in Downtown St. Petersburg.  Built by Peter Demens, the original wooden pier had warehouses and loading docks spread over the half-mile length. It soon became popular with swimmers and fishermen. Over the years, other piers popped up and disappeared.

Officially known as the St. Pete Pier, the current structure opened in 2020. More than a pier, the structure offers a variety of activities for the entire family. Families can walk, picnic, swim, sunbathe, learn, and play. Joggers and walkers can get their exercise while enjoying the views. Shoppers can browse the kiosks and shops on the pier.

 

Adventure seekers can rent kayaks and head out to the bay. Seniors can relax in the Adirondack chairs and enjoy their surroundings. Visitors can learn about the marine life in the bay area in the Tampa Bay Watch Discovery Center. Music lovers can attend a concert. Hungry visitors can get a bite to eat while marveling at the city skyline. Anglers can cast a line from the dedicated fishing platform.

As the city says, “Its more than just a PIER. Its an exPIERience!”

Major League Sports

St. Petersburg is lucky to share several major league sports teams with other towns in the Tampa Bay Area. Tropicana Field, which is close to Downtown St. Pete, has been home to the Tampa Bay Rays since the team’s inception (1998). The Rays, who compete in the American League East Division, had the best record in Major League Baseball in 2020 (40-20), won the American League Championship Series, but lost the World Series to the Los Angeles Dodgers.

Also based in St. Pete are the Tampa Bay Rowdies, an American professional soccer team. The Rowdies play home games at Al Lang Stadium on the waterfront in Downtown St. Pete. The team won the USL Division and Conference Championships in 2020.

If that isn’t enough, you can also take the cross-bay ferry to take in a hockey game played by the 2020 Stanley Cup champions, the Tampa Bay Lightning. A short car ride will take you to Raymond James Stadium to watch the Tampa Bay Buccaneers, winners of the 2020 Super Bowl.

Museums in St. Petersburg

As I mentioned above, we now live in Downtown St. Pete. One of the great things about it is that we can walk to parks, restaurants, bars, sports events, galleries, shops, and museums. With museums throughout the city, St. Pete lives up to its reputation as a city that promotes art.

Since it opened in 1982, the world-famous Dali Museum has celebrated the life and work of Spanish artists Salvador Dali. The museum owns more than 2400 of Dali’s paintings, watercolors, drawings, prints, photographs, posters, textiles, and sculptures.

The Morean Arts Center displays the works of local, national, and international artists. My favorite part of the museum, though, is the Chihuly Collection.  A permanent installation of the glass art (and paintings) of Dale Chihuly. The Imagine Museum features the work of glass artists from around the world.

The largest museum in town is the Museum of Fine Arts. In addition to one of Florida’s best photography exhibits, glass gallery, and sculptures, the museum displays the work of Monet, OKeeffe, De Kooning, and Rauschenberg. If western art is more your thing, visit the James Museum, home to art depicting the peoples, landscapes, wildlife and history of the American West.

Historical museums abound in St. Pete. Celebrating and preserving African American history, the Dr. Carter G. Woodson African American hosts a variety of permanent and traveling exhibits and events. The St. Pete Museum of History has been sharing stories of Florida for almost 100 years. Through permanent and special exhibits, The Florida Holocaust Museum honors and preserves the memory of the millions who suffered or died in the Holocaust and promotes the worth and dignity of all human life. St. Petersburg is also home to the only museum in the world dedicated to the American Arts and Crafts Movement. Due to open soon, the Museum of the American Arts and Crafts Movement will showcase the architecture, fine arts, furniture, lighting, pottery, and even jewelry of the period.

And we cannot forget the children! Visit Great Explorations, the bay area’s first children’s museum, for a hands-on learning experience for the young ones in your life.

Fiore by Dale Chihuly, an exhibit at the Chihuly Collection © Chris Cutler
Fiore by Dale Chihuly, an exhibit at the Chihuly Collection © Chris Cutler
Museum of the American Arts and Crafts Movement © Chris Cutler
Museum of the American Arts and Crafts Movement © Chris Cutler

Events in St. Petersburg

Peppers at the market © Chris Cutler
Peppers at the market © Chris Cutler

One of the things I love most about St. Petersburg is that it is always time to celebrate something. As I write this, the city just hosted the Firestone Grand Prix on our downtown streets, and in the next few weeks, we’ll be heading to a French Fry Fest, the annual Taco + Beer Fiesta, and the Johns Hopkins Run for All Children.

The Saturday Morning Market is my weekly go-to for fresh produce, crafts, music and fun. There are a variety of art festivals throughout the year, including the St. Petersburg Fine Art Festival, the Mainsail Art Festival, and the Florida CraftArt Festival, among others.

The best information on upcoming events is available on the Visit St. Pete/Clearwater site.

Carrots at the market © Chris Cutler
Carrots at the market © Chris Cutler
At the market © Chris Cutler
At the market © Chris Cutler
Enjoying the day at the market © Chris Cutler
Enjoying the day at the market © Chris Cutler

Stay in St. Petersburg

No matter your style or budget, St. Pete has a place for you to stay.

If you are into camping, the Fort DeSoto Campgrounds offers camp sites for tents, vans, and pop-ups to sites that accommodate pull-through motor homes. Each campsite has water, electricity, picnic tables, and a grill. The campground offers washers, dryers, restrooms, and showers. And, to enjoy the outdoors, you’ll find beaches and play areas. There’s even a campground store, and you can rent kayaks.

From the old mom-and-pop motels to the mid-range chain hotels, you’ll find all kinds of hotels on the peninsula. Downtown St. Pete has the Hilton, Hyatt, Hampton, and Courtyard as well as some historic hotels—The Cordova Inn,The Ponce de Leon Hotel, The Hollander, and The Avalon.

The Hollander Hotel at Night © Chris Cutler
The Hollander Hotel at Night © Chris Cutler

If luxury is more your style, The Vinoy® Renaissance St. Petersburg Resort & Golf Club or the Don CeSar might be just what you need. Located on the downtown waterfront, the Vinoy has a spa, golf and tennis, fitness classes, and pools. It even has a private marina where you can charter a boat to explore the Tampa Bay Area. The Don CeSar, located on the gulf side of the peninsula on St. Pete Beach, has welcomed visitors since 1928. Lovingly called The Pink Palace because of its bright pink color, the Don offers a full-service spa, complimentary bicycle rental, beach loungers and an umbrella per day,  a fitness center access and classes, and non-motorized water-sport rentals.

Eat in St. Petersburg

Pizza at Oak & Stone © Chris Cutler
Pizza at Oak & Stone © Chris Cutler

You’ll never go hungry in St. Pete. No matter what kind of food you like, you’re bound to find a restaurant the feed you. Because we are a coastal town, you know you’re going to find delicious seafood all around town. 400 Beach Seafood & Tap House, The Oyster Bar, and Sea Salt, among others, offer up fresh-caught fish and seafood. The Crab House is a take-out seafood shack that offers blue crabs, snow crabs, shrimp, and, believe it or not, their specialty garlic chicken wings. 

Because of the Cuban influences in the area, you’ll find some of the best Cuban cuisine outside of Havana at the Habana Cafe (both at the Saturday Market and in Gulfport). Other restaurants with a Latin flavor are Red Mesa Grill, Bodega, WEPA Cocina de Puerto Rico, and Ceviche (my personal favorite).

 

Eggs Benedict at TroPez © Chris Cutler
Eggs Benedict at TroPez © Chris Cutler
Ravioli & Short Ribs at Lure © Chris Cutler
Ravioli & Short Ribs at Lure © Chris Cutler

There is also a large Italian community in the St. Pete area, and you’ll find great Italian fare all over town. Gratzzi, Il Ritorno, and BellaBrava are three great Italian restaurants in the downtown area. (Tip: Be sure to check out Mazzaro’s Italian Market for everything Italian as well as their pre-made foods and sandwiches.)

Truth be told, you can travel the culinary world in St. Petersburg. From Italian to Indian, from Thai to Argentinian, from Japanese to plain, old American—and everywhere else, you’ll enjoy a variety of cuisines in St. Pete.

Salad at Ceviche © Chris Cutler
Salad at Ceviche © Chris Cutler

Come Visit St. Petersburg, Florida's "Sunshine City"

The Sunshine Skyway Bridge at dusk © Chris Cutler
The Sunshine Skyway Bridge at dusk © Chris Cutler

St. Petersburg offers something for everyone no matter your age, lifestyle, budget, and likes. With its perfect year-round weather, vibrant art scene, beautiful beaches, and abundance of activities, St. Pete truly is one of the places that should be on your “Must Visit” list.

Chris Cutler head shot round

Christine Cutler is a writer, photographer, editor, guide, teacher, traveler, Ohio native, Florida resident, and world citizen. She lives in Downtown St. Petersburg with her husband and crazy Welsh Terrier, but she cannot sit still very long. In addition to maintaining her own websites,  coldpastaandredwine.com  and  christinecutler.com, she is president of International Food Wine Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA); executive editor of Food, Wine, Travel Magazine; travel editor of Live in Italy Magazine; and a travel, nonfiction, and memoir writer, photographer, and editor. A dual Italian-American citizen, she spends as much time as she can exploring Italy.