Story and photos by Elsa Dixon
Giethoorn is Just Over an Hour’s Drive from Amsterdam
Giethoorn has a few names: Venice of the Netherlands, a Dutch Green Venice, or The City with no Roads. As the labels imply, there are no cars and one can only get around by boat, walking, or cycling. This unique, small town in the Northeastern part of the country is about 85 minutes’ drive from the capital, Amsterdam, and one of the top ten attractions in the Netherlands.
Kollen Verhuur Boat Rentals
Recently, Lionel, a Dutch resident, and friend of mine, introduced me to this fairytale village. We parked the car in the backyard of Kollen Verhuur, a private Boat Rental Company, scattering two fat, brightly colored roosters that took refuge under a bush. We walked around the corner of the old farmhouse into a different world. The lawn stretched from the building to the edge of the canal. Boats bobbed lightly in the quiet water, ready to take visitors back in time.
The owner settled us in a sloep kragge, a small, battery-driven boat, and we gently put-putted into Giethoorn village.
Hand-Dug Canals and 176 Bridges Form Giethoorn
Giethoorn consists of small islands surrounded by hand-dug canals and inter-connected by 176 bridges to the mainland. One can follow a walking or cycling path called Binnenpad through this area.
Our boat took us past old Dutch farmhouses with thatched roofs, some dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. Owners took pride in keeping neat, green gardens with cheerful flowerbeds, shrubs, and hydrangeas.
Lots of Boats – But No Cars
Tall trees cast shadows over the water, and rows of weeping willows lined the banks of the canals. Ducks and other waterbirds darted around us. Along the way in between the homes, we saw small restaurants and even a museum. It was strange not to see any cars, only the odd boat.
Boat rental companies offer a variety of options. One can select a ‘whisper’ boat, running quietly on an electrical engine, or choose a vessel according to the size of your group. There are also tour boats available or private boats with knowledgeable skippers.
It was a beautifully calm, sunny day. We reached the open lake and were thrilled to see groups of swans fishing for food! It was a strange sight: big, white blobs of feathers bobbing on the water, suddenly changing into graceful swans. I never realized they kept their long necks underwater for such long periods. Swans live on aquatic vegetation, eating mollusks, small fish, frogs, and worms.
National Park Weerribben-Wieden, Largest Freshwater Marsh in Northwest Europe
We entered the Nationaal Park Weerribben-Wieden, the largest freshwater marsh in Northwest Europe. I smiled at the trademark little Dutch windmill in the reeds. The National Park is known for its bird species, otters, swans, and seabirds. Bird lovers can observe rare species from birdwatching huts or hides.
This man-made wetland, situated between the higher plateau of the province Drenthe in the east and the dune edge in the west, has a fascinating history. After the ice ages, swamps arose, and inhabitants partly reclaimed them during the Middle Ages. Today, like in the past, peat cutters and reed land managers continue to shape the marsh with their hands. The saying goes, ‘With your feet in the peat and your hands in the reeds.’
We enjoyed the solitude of the Park, the reeds whistling softly in the gentle breeze, and the odd splashes of colorful water lilies. The waterways in the Park circled back to join the Binnenpad again.
Giethoorn by Foot
After dropping off our boat, we walked along the canal, crossing the little footbridge. It was fun to experience the village without cars coming at you! A red, white, and blue Dutch flag in a backyard reminded me that I was in the Netherlands. So too, the sculpture of the cow in the meadow!
Restaurant 141 in a historic farmhouse, is conveniently situated opposite Boten Verhuur. We opted for a light lunch in the beautiful setting outside. Restaurant 141 uses local produce and makes virtually everything from scratch. I ordered the freshly baked roll with smoked salmon, lettuce, and herb mayonnaise. Tiny French gherkins, called cornichons added a pleasing tart taste. Lionel opted for the traditional Dutch Uitsmijter, three fried eggs, ham, cheese, bacon, and curry mayonnaise.
Join the Million People That Visit Giethoorn Each Year
About one million people visit Giethoorn annually. Visitors park at designated car parks outside the village. There are also various campsites and a few hotels available for visitors to spend their holidays. It would be best to avoid coming during the Dutch school holidays (the last two weeks of July until the end of August), and the Dutch public and national holidays. Since it was not high season for visitors, we were fortunate to have very little traffic on the canals.
Giethoorn is indeed the ‘Venice of the Netherlands,’ with a distinct Dutch flavor, a place well worth visiting.