Stories by Kerrie-Anne Riles and photos by Kerrie-Anne and Alan Riles (unless otherwise indicated)
Lima to Huancayo on the Ferrocarril Central Andino
Ferrocarril Central Andino
–The second highest rail journey in the world
So why would you travel fourteen hours on a train from Lima to Huancayo in the Andean Highlands when you can drive there in seven hours or fly in an hour?
For the journey…absolutely!
The View Leaving Lima
The entertainment commenced while we were waiting to board. A local police band played on the station. However we heard, but could not see this, as we were corralled in a queue in a brightly painted mural corridor. So if you want to actually see the band and dancers I recommend you arrive super early.
Our journey started rather ignominiously travelling for the first two and a half hours through some of the poorer areas of Lima… backwards! Not my favorite way to travel. However this ended at the first stop when the engine was uncoupled and was manually turned on a turntable by two men.
Once we were facing the right way the train traveled faster out into the countryside.
Clasico clase and Turistico clase
There are two classes of carriages. The Clasico clase carriages have a capacity of 68 passengers. They were constructed in England in 1950 and remain relatively the same today. Four non-reclining seats are grouped around small tables.
Turistico clase carriages have a capacity of 48 passengers. Built in 2006 in Callao, Peru, the seating is in a traditional Pullman, forward facing, configuration with plenty of room for reclining and with detachable individual tables. Panoramic views can be seen from the wide windows with ceiling skylights making viewing the looming mountains easy. The main advantage of paying the additional charge for the Turistico clase carriage is access to the rear carriage that is divided between a bar and the open-air observation deck.
Traversing the Andes of Peru
As our train snaked around the mountains we passed lead-zinc-silver mining operations both abandoned and still working. This, we were reminded, was the reason the train tracks were laid in the first place– to transport ore concentrate to the coast. The line from Callao to Huancayo was opened in 1908.
It was very calming as we traversed the Andes with only the clackity clack of the lines and the rhythmic jolt of the connections between the carriages. Periodically, the peace was punctuated by the sudden loud bangs of the festive balloons, given to us when we left Lima, as they succumbed to the lower pressure of the higher altitude. It is important to be aware of possible effects of altitude on you. This may include dizziness, shortness of breath, headaches or sleepiness. Not everyone will be affected but for passengers suffering the effects of altitude sickness, oxygen and a nurse are available.
Two uninspiring meals were served during the journey. Desayuno–breakfast and almuerzo– lunch, a small box containing small pieces of dry, barely warm chicken and pork, camote (a type of sweet potato) and yuca and broad beans. Postre-desert, was a jelly. In a land that prides itself on its diversity of world-class food I expected more. However, we were not there for the food.
Maté de Coca-Coca tea was offered as this is the recognized drink to help cope with altitude sickness. The national drink of pisco sours are great but it is important to drink plenty of water to stay hydrated so bottled water was supplied. Tour tickets included a shot glass size “free” Pisco Sour. Of course there was plenty of opportunity to purchase full size drinks at the bar in the Observation Car.
The open-air observation platform at the rear of the train was the venue for the entertainment, an energetic presentation of Peruvian folk dancing. The dance duo presented intricate dances, with several costume changes of brightly colored traditional dress, as the train wove around the steep hillsides. They then invited some of the audience to join them. Dancing at 3500m on a moving train is definitely not easy!
Puente Infiernillo – the little devil bridge
Going to the bathroom presented another challenge. Firstly the unpredictable lurching of the train was unbalancing, but with no lighting in the tiny room you may be plunged into total darkness as the train races through a tunnel!
There are 69 tunnels including the Galera Tunnel. At 4782 meters above sea level it is the highest railway tunnel in the world. The most spectacular of the 58 bridges is the Puente Infiernillo– the little devil bridge. The track runs across a bridge constructed in a narrow canyon thus connecting two tunnels in the steep cliffs on either side of the canyon.
Switchback after Switchback to Conquer the Steep Ascents
The steepest ascents were achieved with the implementation of switchbacks.
Clinging to the cliff side, the train reverses slowly to the end of a sidetrack, and then runs back onto the main track to achieve an elevation not possible by direct vertical travel. These switchbacks limit the number of carriages possible. So apart from the wonders of dramatic views of the Andes to delight any tourist, this is a “must” train journey for any railway enthusiast.
Colorful Street Parade in the Streets of Huancayo
We left Lima before breakfast at 7.00 am and, fourteen hours later, we arrived after dark into Huancayo to a tumultuous welcome by another band, more dancers and any number of people all vying for the opportunity to transport us to our accommodation.
On Saturday, more by good luck than good management, we encountered an extravagant, colorful street parade showcasing more mature participants. However none of the spectators asked, nor the hotel reception, could explain what they were celebrating.
On Sunday a three-hour private tour took us to Cerro de la Libertad viewpoint, church and market stalls and the Gaudí-esque Parque de la Identidad Huanca . Our tour culminated in the spectacular Torre Torre, the Chimineas de Hadas- the fairy chimneys. These columns, eroded by wind and rain, are similar to the “hoodoos” of Bryce Canyon in SW Utah.
Returning to Lima
The scheduled return to Lima by train is usually two or three days later. However you can take the opportunity to hike in Cerro Jallacate to extend your stay. As there is no regular passenger schedule, and tourist trains only run about one weekend a month, this means your return journey may be seven hours by hire car or bus. This then gives you a different view of the Andes as the train mostly does not follow the road. Alternatively, you can travel about an hour north-west up the valley by taxi to Jauja airport–approximately S/50. Returning to Lima by air rather than train allowed us to enjoy a full day on the Sunday, saving us another early morning start.
Bookings: https://www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe
