Stories by Kerrie-Anne Riles and photos by Kerrie-Anne and Alan Riles (unless otherwise indicated)
At the World Travel Awards, known as the Oscars of the Travel Industry, held in Bolivia in July 2019, Peru was awarded the top culinary destination of the world for the eighth year in a row. This was not a surprise to anyone who has eaten in Lima.
La Rosa Nautica
As you walk along to the end of the old jetty and into the restaurant you feel like you are walking back in time. With just the right amount of “shabby chic” Rosa Nautica is a timeless restaurant.
You could describe the décor as sea weathered luxury. The slightly distressed paintwork could be criticized in another setting but here it feels just right. It feels like the restaurant has been here forever and the sea has taken its toll. The sash windows are propped open with pieces of dowel, but judiciously, as even the seagulls know the food is good here!
Arriving here early is a good idea as bookings are taken but tables are not assigned. You are invited to wander around with your waiter and choose your own table and, of course, the tables closest to the water always go first. There are three main areas. Our favorite is in the large bay window, but anywhere near the water is good.
Although the predominantly seafood menu is excellent, Rosa Nautica makes this list as the most exceptional place for fine dining with uninterrupted views of the Pacific Ocean. La Rosa Nautica is the perfect place for a celebration or romantic dining; every lady receives a red rose as they leave.
Lima 27
Chef Carlos Testino describes his cuisine as “Peruvian with modern techniques to create unique textures and flavors. It is a cuisine for all the senses, sight, smell taste and texture”.
Most ingredients used are sourced in Peru. Offering traditional plates transformed into contemporary gourmet cuisine with delicate and imaginative plating, you will find ingredients served such as paiche, the huge Amazonian fish, or percebes– (goose neck barnacles) a rare crustacean from the north of Peru.
Address: Calle Santa Louisa 29, San Isidro
Astrid y Gastón
Gastón Acurio is known as the godfather of modern Peruvian cuisine as he was instrumental in the revival of the world’s interest in Peruvian food by developing a modern presentation of Peruvian traditional food, and his work in mentoring young Peruvian chefs in his school designed to give young Peruvians, who would not normally have the opportunity, to develop their culinary skills. Gastón and pastry chef wife Astrid Gutsche open their first restaurant in1994. In 2014 they moved to the 300 year old, fully restored Casa Moreyra.
At Astrid y Gastón they specialize in Peruvian cuisine served in unusual ways. We enjoyed a wonderful degustación menu.
Madam Tusan
Another of Gastón Arcuro’s many restaurants, this is a chifa restaurant. Chifa is the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian cuisines. For those who like Chinese food, as we do, you will find an exciting new combination of flavors as traditional Chinese ingredients are combined with Peruvian ingredients.
The décor is dominated by an enormous red dragon that seems to be squirming in and out of the wall of the two level restaurant. Arriving after 8.00pm you can request a table in the loft overlooking the whole restaurant giving you a bird’s eye view of all the food.
Av. Santa Cruz 859 Miraflores
Matria
What do you do when you have so many choices that you can’t decide? Order lots of half plates!
At Matria, half plates of many dishes can be ordered, even the starters. Chef Arlette Eulert explained “Some people just want a small portion, but mostly they choose half plates so that they can sample lots more dishes”.
Rustic in décor with exposed rough mortared brickwork and unpainted cement, Matria still has a warm, relaxed and friendly feeling. Chef Arlette describes her style of cooking as “product cuisine”. She is strongly influenced by Peruvian ingredients available at the time.
In Peru it is almost compulsory to start a meal with a Pisco Sour. But at Matria we found a new way to enjoy Pisco…cooking mussels in it! Mejillones salteado en aromas de Pisco was so good that once we had eaten the mussels from the shell we used a half shell to scoop out the rest of the broth.
General Manuel Mendiburu 823 Miraflores
Barra Lima
My favorite place to eat in Lima is perched on a high bar stool in front of the open kitchen of Barra Lima watching the meticulous preparation of the Peruvian delights I am about to enjoy. I have been here many times and never cease to be amazed at the delicate presentation; and the best part is you can sit watching the chefs, tweezers in hand, creating.
Barra Lima is not the sort of noisy place full of tourists. It is an unassuming quiet corner restaurant with a pleasant outdoor area. Barra Lima specializes in using traditional Andean ingredients, in particular seafood. The waiters are happy to explain the ingredients and their uses and origins.
The “tasting menu” evening meal is Peru on a plate so is very popular with tourists. Ingredients are sourced from all over Peru, which is blessed with such a diverse climate and growing conditions. Many of the dishes also include varieties of the seaweeds that grow abundantly in the waters of southern Peru. The tasting menu consists of small portions where every dish is visually exciting, serving the delicate style and quality food you’d expect in a Michelin star restaurant (without the Michelin star price).
D’Tinto de Bife
Considered one of the best meat restaurants in Lima there are two, the original in San Isidro and another in Miraflores, each with a private cellar. For starters you can choose local delicacies such as anticuchos–beef heart– or morcilla–blood sausage. Specializing in beef, you order your steak by type and size. You can order individual plates or huge platters of mixed meats for four people. Two salmon dishes are also available. Servings are very generous but make sure you order some accompaniments otherwise you will just end up with a huge lump of meat!
Address: Conquistadores AV. 605 San Isidro
Isolina Taberna Peruana
An unassuming façade greets you when you arrive at Isolina in Barranco– look for the queue! Here you will not find food aspiring to fancy Michelin stars.
Although many restaurants in Lima are striving to showcase modern presentations of Peruvian fare, Isolina is doing the exact opposite. Their aim is to conserve and revive the traditions of the past. Food here is about recreating authentic traditional family foods. Chef José del Castillo seeks to “rescue the forgotten flavors in old cookbooks and to value the foods of yesteryear”.
Occupying a house built in 1906 Isolina is a popular relaxed meeting place for friends recalling the atmosphere of old taverns with live Peruvian music.
The menu includes hearty stews often containing kidneys, liver or tripe. Meals are designed to share and usually portioned for 3+ people to serve themselves.
Or maybe you’d just prefer some starters to share such as the Juicy Beef Brain Omlete– a traditional recipe from colonial times– or tender pickled pork feet. The food here is always flavorsome and I guarantee you will find something here to eat you have never tried before!
Address: Av San Martin 101, Baranco
Acantilado de Barranco
From the Puente de los Suspiros–Bridge of Sighs– in Baranco there is a path next to the derelict Iglesia Ermita de Baranco that leads to Mirador Catalina Recavarren lookout over the Pacific Ocean. Here you will also find a hidden treasure. There are two small bars; our favorite is Acantilado de Barranco. Extremely “rustic” in décor but with a friendly charm, we love the outside seating for a casual drink with a great view. The menu is not extensive, but the Parmesan Scallops are to die for!
