Story and photos by Elsa Dixon (unless otherwise indicated)
Arrival at Port Louis in Mauritius
As the MSC Sinfonia docked in Port Louis, Mauritius, lively Sega music welcomed us. Mauritian ladies in white underskirts and colorful long, frilly dresses swirled around while a few men beat catchy rhythms on the ravanne, a tambourine-like drum, a big triangle, and a wooden washboard. The weather was perfect. The festive months of November and December are the best times to visit the islands in the Indian ocean.
Moira, representing Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority, was on the dock, swag bag in hand, to greet my companion, Karen, and me. She handed us over to Mr. Khaleel, a guide for Dana Tours, who was to drive us around the tropical island. Volcanic Mauritius is known for its white sand beaches, aqua-blue water, and coral reefs.
Aapravasi Ghat World Heritage Site
Our first stop was the Aapravasi Ghat World Heritage Site in the port capital, an immigration depot from 1849 to 1923. Mauritius was the first British colony to receive indentured or contracted workers from mainly India to work in the sugarcane fields for five years. Nearly half a million laborers passed through this depot, now restored to commemorate their arrival. Today, about 68% of the total population is of Indian descent. The site has reclaimed the actual place where the first ships landed. Visitors can view the excavations and a replica of one of the vessels. The display of the names of 36 indentured Indians who arrived on the Atlas in 1834 is particularly moving. Cylinders containing their information hang on the sides of the exhibit. One follows the path the laborers would have taken by climbing the steps outside leading to vegetable gardens and a few restored outbuildings. These include a kitchen, hospital, and stables. The Aapravasi Ghat World Heritage Site is of historical and educational value. It is also a reminder of the cultural heritage Mauritians share.
Intercontinental Slavery Museum in Mauritius
The Intercontinental Slavery Museum, a converted military hospital next door to Aapravasi Ghat, is still in its infancy and will officially open in the upcoming year. The enthusiastic guide, Gabriella, gave us a detailed exposition of the project, keen to share her vision of commemorating her heritage and how slavery impacted the Mauritian nation.
Arabs, Malays, Europeans, and Portuguese discovered uninhabited Mauritius in the 16th century. The Dutch claimed the island in 1598 and imported slaves to help with the ebony wood export business and later to establish sugar cane fields. During their colonial rule, they ravaged the ebony forests. In a quest for food, they decimated the dodo, a flightless bird endemic to the island, and wreaked havoc on the giant tortoise population. The dodo lives on in many forms on the island today, especially in touristy mementos, carvings, and ornaments in establishments.
The British abandoned the island in 1710 while the French took possession five years later. In 1735 the French Governor, Mahé de La Bourdonnais, established a flourishing spice plantation, the port, and a shipbuilding center. During the Napoleonic wars, the British overpowered the French on the island and ruled the island from 1810. The British abolished slavery on 1 February 1835. By then, there were about 60,000 slaves, brought in from Zanzibar, Mozambique, and Madagascar. It was then that the process of importing indentured Indians started. Mauritius gained independence on 12 March 1968 and has since developed a diversified, high-income economy, relying mainly on tourism, sugar, textiles, and financial services.
Maison Eureka
We looked forward to sampling the Mauritian Creole menu at Maison Eureka, also known as La Maison Creole, in Moka, Port Louis. A residing family member of the owners, Minta, took us on a tour of the house and garden. During colonial times, the owners catered to the white aristocracy. A unique feature of this wooden structure is the 106 doors opening out of the building. The fact that the original owner had 17 children may account for this proliferance! Imported hardwood, beautifully crafted furniture, delicate dinner sets, and paintings grace the rooms. A bright, red-whiskered bulbul delighted us by flying from the porch into the garden. We followed it to the outdoor kitchen where one could still see the original mortars and pestles for grinding spices and crushing herbs.
Maison Eureka Menu
The restaurant features a menu representative of the diversity and different cultures of the Mauritian nation. Most dishes, a combination of Indian, French, Chinese, and Creole, are unique to the island and flavored with locally grown spices. Our starter was what I would consider a delicacy, shaved, smoked marlin salad. Of course, blue marlin is the ultimate trophy in big game fishing around the island. I selected curried beef and my friend fish vindaloo as the main course. We found the spicy lentil sauce poured over the accompanying white rice and the croutons served with the curry, unusual but tasty. Other accompaniments were sauteed pumpkin and a pickled vegetable medley. Our dessert featured vanilla ice cream with, surprisingly, grilled coconut shreds. We savored a mint-flavored Mauritian tea while enjoying the lush garden setting.
Caudan Waterfront
Before returning to port, Mr. Khaleel dropped us off at the Caudan Waterfront in Mauritius with its stunning entrance and very colorful mall, filled with umbrellas hanging from the dome. This shopping mall offers many restaurants, cinemas, shops, banking facilities, and casinos. We explored the craft market where local artisans gathered, some carving wood and others selling assorted products.
Trou aux Biches Public Beach in Mauritius
After the official cultural tour of the previous day, we were ready to enjoy one of the famous Mauritius beaches. With three other passengers, we grabbed a taxi, and at $20 a head, the driver took us to Trou aux Biches public beach, not too far from the port. My friends staked a spot in the sun on the white sand while I opted for one of the many benches dotted around the area under the pine trees.
A few stray dogs lay motionless on the beach, not bothering anyone. To the left of us, there was a hub of activity as people signed up at the Trou aux Biches Diving Center for water activities. One could walk a long distance along the white, sandy coastline. We only had two hours to appreciate the beautiful views over the bay and watch the catamarans and speedboats take off. Of course, for the luxury Mauritian beach experience, one would book into an upscale hotel along the shore for a few days.
Stops on the Way
We had a fun ride back to the ship, passing many parks and beach scenes. We even made a screeching stop at a vendor on the highway to taste and buy a bushel of lychees, a sweet, fleshy white tropical fruit with rough pink skin.
Our driver took us to Go Duty-Free Shop for a local rum sampling. The production of rum in Mauritius goes back to the 19th century. During the last decade, the country became a leading producer, offering quality traditional rum made from molasses and agricultural rum made from sugarcane juice. Twelve kinds of sugarcane grow on the island. Distillers use only the red and yellow stalked ones for making rum. Small distilleries infuse various flavors into the rum. The different savors give the rum a sweet taste with a spicy kick! Quite delicious.
Reunion is known for its small-scale shipbuilding industry, dating back to 1968. Builders use intricate replicas of famous vessels like the Endeavor or Bounty. We stopped at a very nicely laid out shop, Sea Power. Situated in Grand Baie, the store has an impressive display of model ships and a wide variety of high-quality souvenirs.
Madurai Mariamen Temple
The ornate Madurai Mariamen Temple, used by Hindus only on auspicious occasions or during religious festivals, is situated on Caudan Square near the port and open to the public. We followed the walkway around the building admiring the impressive architecture, colorful idols, and images of the deities and other figures. There were several other outdoor structures, all lavishly decorated. Mauritius celebrates three Hindu Festivals, Divali, Ganesh Chathurti, and Holi.
Leaving Mauritius – Back On The Ship
Two days were way too short to explore this beautiful island. There are three destinations I would have liked to visit as well. The first would be the Blue Penny Museum for an overview of the three colonial periods and the history of the postal service of Mauritius. There is also an interesting exhibit of the country’s very first and other rare stamps. The second would be the Natural History of Museum which houses sketches and skeletons of the dodo, extinct since the 17th century. This fascinating bird, weighing up to 45 pounds, stood up to three feet high and inhabited the island for millions of years. And lastly, I would love to see the Chamarel 7 Colored Earth Geopark with its surreal rainbow sand dunes of red, brown, purple, green, blue, purple, and yellow hues.
As I leaned over the deck for a last look at the port of enchanting Mauritius, I knew I would be back someday.
The Tour was sponsored with compliments of Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority
Mauritius Tourism Promotion Authority https://www.mymauritius.travel/
Address: 4th-5th Floors, Victoria House, St Louis Street,11302, Port Louis, Republic of Mauritius
Email: mtpa@intnet.mu
Ph: +230 203 1900/57 or +230 212 5142
Aapravasi Ghat World Heritage Site: https://aapravasi.govmu.org/aapravasi/
Contact person: Miss Darshini
Address: Quay Street Port Louis, Mauritius
Ph: +230 217 7770 or +230 5256 3600
Email: outreach.agtf@intnet.mu
Intercontinental Slavery Museum Project: https://www.instagram.com/ismmauritius/
Contact person: Gabriella Bahrn
Email: g.batourism@gmail.com riniena2018@gmail.com
Maison Eureka Restaurant: http://maison-eureka.restaurant.mu/en
Contact person: Minta
Address: Eureka Lane, Montagne Ory, Moka, Mauritius
Email: eurekamr@intnet.mu
