Stories by Kerrie-Anne Riles and photos by Kerrie-Anne and Alan Riles (unless otherwise indicated)
There are so many daytrips and weekend trips you can plan from Lima. Of course combining travel times to more than one destination in close proximity allows you to make the most of each trip. Pachacamac Citadel and Dpaso Dancing Horses make a great daytrip.
Pachacamac Citadel
An easy 30km drive south from Lima on the Pan-American highway takes you to the archaeological ruins of Pachacamac . There are many tourist groups you can hire in Lima to take you there. However as there was four of us, we hired a car for the weekend.
An area of approximately 600 hectares in the valley of the Lurin River, it was settled about AD 200. The site was inhabited by four successive Pre-Columbian civilizations: Lima for whom Pachacamac was a ceremonial city, expanded by the Wari, before being taken over by the Ychma. Lastly, and perhaps best known, were the Inca who added numerous other structures upon their arrival to the area in 1450. Although the civilizations changed, each devoted the citadel to Pachacamac-the earth maker– Pacha Kamaq in Quechua.
Here are some interesting facts about Pachacamac:
The area flourished for about 1300 years until it was invaded by the Spanish in 1532.
Pachacamac was believed to be a god of fire and a son of the sun god.
Although gold was of no monetary value, it was greatly prized as it was believed to be the blood of god.
Archaeologists first began exploring Pachacamac in the 1890’s when Max Uhle, known as the Father of Peruvian Archaeology, began excavations. He recovered approximately 9,000 artifacts spanning over 3,000 years of Andean pre-history. These include Nazca pottery, shells, textiles, metals, objects made of wood and other plant material, and objects constructed of animal materials such as feathers, bone, and leather. In particular he developed a process whereby he could determine the age of the many ancient textiles recovered. Uhle’s work is still recognized as a basic text for studying Peruvian archaeology.
Overview of the Site of Pachacamac
There is a 3 km circuit to see the main ruins. However, as with many of the over-visited sites of archaeological significance in Peru, you must now be accompanied by a guide. We were given the opportunity to walk through the ruins, but on a breathtakingly hot day we decided it was best to drive. This turned out to be a very sensible choice as the ruins are very spread out. There are designated parking areas and then you can walk to vantage points.
Main Buildings in the Complex
The Old Temple, also called the Temple of Pachacamac, is the oldest building in Pachacamac, built by the Ychma civilization. It is also know as the Templo de rampa.
Palacio de las Mamacuna (House of the Chosen Women), commonly referred to as the Acllahuasi is the first major building you see. The chosen women wove textiles for the priests and brewed chicha, the corn beer used in ceremonies. They were then sacrificed in rituals to the gods, killed with the cotton garrotes some of which were still found around their necks when the graves were uncovered. Damaged in an earthquake in 2007, the building became unstable. Although it has had extensive renovations visitors are restricted from entering.
Painted Temple– is enshrouded by protective awnings during the extensive restoration needed to restore the painted surfaces lost to the elements. The paintings represent the power of Pachacamac and depict fish, plants, people and birds made with red, yellow and green pigments outlined in black. At the viewing point for the Painted Temple there is an example of the painting style that you would see.
From the Painted Temple it is an uphill walk to the Temple of the Sun.
Temple of the Sun–Templo del Sol, is the most notable of the ruins.
Built of adobe on a natural promontory, over 50 million sun-dried adobitos–mud bricks were used. Evidence of human sacrifices to the sun god has been found. The red color of the plaster was believed to be from blood but it has now been ascertained that it was cinnabar, a mercury mineral found naturally in the Andes 250 miles away. It is believed the cinnabar was used to show economic and political power. You can walk right around the Temple of the Sun on a path which also gives you panoramic views of the coast.
Our guide also accompanied us explaining the displays in the Pachacamac Site Museum, opened in 1965. It has an extensive, well-displayed collection of artifacts including pottery, textiles and gold statues, mostly in glass cases. One fascinating display was the Quipus knots, an intricate system of knotted cords used by the Incas for counting, including accounting and taking census.
Cost: Adults: S/15
Seniors: S/7.50
Children: S/1
Peruvian Paso Dancing Horses
There are several Peruvian Paso Horse shows within driving distance of Pachacamac. Our choice was the Dpaso Hacienda, less than 20 minutes drive away. Arriving too early for almuerzo-lunch, we ordered their signature drink, Blue Pisco Sour Catedral. The unique addition of blue curaçao to this giant drink put us in a festive mood as we waited for the buffet lunch.
As the restaurant began to fill, an elaborate buffet was slowly served with dozens of Peruvian dishes, both hot and cold, from which to choose. Postre-desert was picarones, a sweet Peruvian style donut which is basically puréed sweet potato and pumpkin flavored with cinnamon and liberally drizzled in honey. Delicious!
During the almuerzo, we saw several extraordinary dances. The first was an Incan style dance in a tribute to the history of the area. The many performances transitioned to more modern, each in different elaborate costumes.
At the end of these performances we were encouraged to take yet another pisco sour outside to the horse show. We were happy to oblige.
The arena where the horses and dancers performed was not the beautiful grassed gardens offered by some. However the advantage here was the tiered seating around the arena, which afforded every guest an uninterrupted view of the show. And what a spectacular show it was!
Mounted cabelleros led their horses in intricate dances; flirting with coquettish, barefoot ladies in elaborate traditional dresses. After the performance, patrons were invited to go into the arena to have their photos taken with the performers.
Performances daily including holidays.
Adults: S/95
Children: S/60
Dpaso Hacienda, Jr Gral. Belisario Suarez 198, Santiago de Surco 15063, Peru
