Stories and photos by Elsa Dixon (unless otherwise indicated)
Welcome to Far Far Kréol
“Bonjou, my friends!” Jacky greeted us warmly in Reunionese French at the entrance of his Far Far restaurant. The Reunion Tourism Board had arranged a cooking demonstration of traditional Creole food for Karen and me. It resulted in one of the most fun-filled days during our 30-day cruise on the MSC Sinfonia. Sebastian, our tour guide, led us into the spacious reception area. An amazing sight greeted us. Bottles of rum with different infusions, such as lemons, mangoes, and mixed spices, occupied every available space on every possible surface, including the staircase!
Coastal Route du Littoral
You will find Far Far Kréol in the charming village of Saint-Suzanne on the north coast of the island of Reunion, a French overseas territory. Formerly known as Ile Bourbon, Reunion lies off the eastern coast of Madagascar and is the largest of the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean.
Early that morning, Sebastian picked us up at a local bus stop. We followed the coastal Route du Littoral (RN1), passing built-up areas in and around Saint-Denis, the capital of Reunion. We admired completed sections of the new coastal road, Nouvelle Route du Littoral (NRL) being built to replace the existing coastal highway.
Appetizers, Rum, and Beer
The genial event started with welcoming appetizers: French bread, pickled vegetables, and an unusual spread of peanut butter and mashed sweet potato. We mixed happily with the other visitors who hailed from France and Belgium and toasted each other with local rum, beer, and a sugarcane drink. Sugar cane crops total nearly half of the agricultural produce of the island.
Our host, Jacky, proudly introduced his collection of different rums, including one infused with an orchid endemic to Reunion. The island has three rum distilleries. Numerous small distilleries buy from them and age or infuse the rum with flavors extracted from local crops. We chuckled as one guest raised a beer bottle displaying an image of a smiling dodo on the label. Jacky explained that Brasseries de Bourbon (Breweries of Bourbon) is the major producer of beer on the island, in particular, the blonde lager Bourbon named after the extinct bird. Stores selling this beer even paint the slogan la dodo lé la (the dodo is here) on their walls.
Creole Cuisine Experience
Jacky belongs to the Far Far Kréol association that promotes authentic Creole experiences. Guests join him early morning on a visit to local markets to chat with storeowners and select fresh ingredients for the meal that day. He then guides them in the preparation of traditional Creole food. I immediately felt at home in his big shed-like building with the open-fire cooking place since it reminded me of the big porch and barbecue in the house I grew up in.
Reunionese cuisine incorporates influences of ethnic food from different countries. During the 17th century, the French settled there, using slave labor to manage their farms. The British ruled for a short period, from 1810 to 1814, when the French ruled again. They abolished slavery in the French colonies on the 20th of December, 1848. Indentured Indians, Africans, and Chinese then came into the country to work the fields. Through the years, the multi-ethnic cuisine developed its own Creole character.
Karen and I were in time for the demonstration of spring rolls, originally created in China many years ago. Spring rolls were made to celebrate different events, such as the first day of spring. Jacky divided the dough into long rectangular blocks and set out small bowls with the prepared savory mixtures of spicy vegetables and onions. He then showed us how to wet the edges, spoon out the filling and carefully roll up the pastry.
Samosas and Spring Rolls
The general belief is that samosas originated in India. However, in fact, people in the Middle East packed them as snacks for journeys as early as the 10th century.
Once again, Jacky distributed lengths of pastry and bowls with spicy fillings. This time we had to make neat triangular parcels. After a few fumbling attempts and much teasing and laughter, we managed to judge the amount of filling and measure the folds. The smell of the samosas and spring rolls frying in the hot oil wafted through the air, and, at last, we circulated the crunchy, golden-brown appetizers around the tables.
Main Meal
We were ready for the main courses. The tuna, beef, and chicken in red wine with cornbread and sweet potato cakes as accompaniments were fabulous. To round off the meal, Jacky served a local coffee flavored with vanilla, uniquely produced on Cirque de Salazie, one of three volcanic calderas on the island. The fertile volcanic soil is ideal for growing sugarcane, coffee, and vanilla as well as spices like turmeric and all sorts of fruits.
Conclusion
Since we only had one day in Reunion, we missed quite a few exciting adventures. Reunion National Park houses an amazing five Unesco Heritage sites. Piton de la Fournais is presently the most active volcano in the world. Fascinating places of interest are Piton des Neiges, Commerson Crater, Enclos Fouqué, a caldera with an impressive embankment, and Mafate, a cirque with steep walls.
Réunion’s tropical and unique beaches are inviting, often with barbecues, comfortable amenities, and parking spaces. The different colored beaches are fascinating: Hermitage Beach and Grand Anse have white sand, L’Étang-Salé, on the west coast, black sand attributed to lava activity, and Le Vieux Port in Saint Philippe, green sand with tiny olivine crystals resulting from lava flow.
Musée Léon Dierx https://www.musee-leondierx.re/en/ has an impressive art gallery with a great collection of classical and Creole masterpieces. Besides culinary delights and breathtaking scenery, visitors will enjoy the many pleasures and activities Réunion has to offer.
The Cooking Demonstration Tour was sponsored with compliments of Ile De La Reunion Tourisme
Ile De La Reunion Tourisme: www.reunion.fr
Maël THOMASSIN
Far Far Kréol
Contact: Jacky
Website: https://en.reunion.fr/offers/far-far-kreol-sainte-suzanne-en-638996/
48, chemin Camp Créole – Bagatelle
97441 SAINTE-SUZANNE
