Stories and photos by Elsa Dixon (unless otherwise indicated)
Few things are more evocative than a steam-train ride through the countryside. At 7:30 am, my friend Karen and I boarded the Ceres Rail steam train and sank back in our comfortable leather chairs, ready for the three-hour ride to Elgin. We would travel along the False Bay coast, up and over Sir Lowry’s Pass, one of the steepest rail lines in South Africa through the Hottentots Holland Mountains in the Western Cape.
As the train departed from the Harbour Bridge Hotel in the Foreshore district of Cape Town, I looked back at the imposing Table Mountain silhouetted against a clear blue sky. The gentle rocking of the train brought back memories of train rides to Pretoria as a child. The train retained some of the historic emblems of the old South African Railways, later renamed Transnet. I pointed out the images of springbok heads engrained on the windows to Karen.
Steam and Diesel Trains of the Ceres Rail Company
Two locomotives, one steam, and one diesel, pull the long train. I met the driver of the steam engine, Jan ‘Taxi’ Fourie, who has been with the Ceres Rail Company since its inception in 2016. He previously worked for Transnet. “This is my life,” he grinned. “There is nothing better than driving the steam trains.”
The train steamed through Milnerton, past Century City and the Northern Suburbs. We gaped at the astounding number of taxis lined up at Bellville station. Soon, we left the city and the blue mountain ranges surrounding the Winelands of the Cape came into view. We headed towards Somerset West, enjoying the farmlands and vineyards along the way. As we passed through the township areas, strange sights like makeshift pigpens and cow enclosures next to the railroad greeted us. Goats roamed freely while colorful washing on makeshift lines flapped in the breeze. It was painful to see the level of poverty. But even so, women with babies on their backs waved at us while children tried to outrun the train, hooping joyfully. They had obviously anticipated the arrival of the passing steam locomotive.
Onboard With the Good People of Ceres Rail
Rina de Waal had worked for Ceres Rail since its inception as well. “I love my job,” she gushed. “I have done more than 200 trips already, and before that, six years for Atlantic Rail.” Rina took me on a quick tour of the train and introduced me to Alain Bissoon, so busy serving customers in the bar that he only nodded in my direction. “He has been working onboard since November 2021.” We passed through the coffee bar and dining car. Besides the compartments and coupes, guests can enjoy the scenery from the observation car with its comfortable sofas and wingback chairs. Karen and I enjoyed the day chatting with a South African couple and their two grownup sons sitting opposite us.
Some notes of importance
– It is worth pointing out that the train has a fully stocked bar in the dining car for snacks and coffee.
– No personal food or drink items are permitted onboard.
– The train is not wheelchair accessible.
– Wear closed shoes for safety.
– Keep windows closed when passing local communities.
Through Mountains, Veld, and Wildflowers to the Coast
As the journey proceeded, the scenery changed. We passed through an area eerily scorched black in a veld fire. Soon, the terrain became misty and mountainous. Indigenous fynbos covered the hills. We opened the windows to enjoy the fragrances of the veld and wildflowers. The train slowly chugged uphill, smoke billowing from the front. We entered a pitch-black tunnel and then passed the Steenbras Dam. As we ascended Sir Lowry’s Pass, the seaside town of Gordon’s Bay became visible. We had a panoramic view of the blue waters of the False Bay coast in the distance.
Sir Lowry’s Pass and the Elgin Valley
It was amazing to see the tarred road of Sir Lowry’s Pass below us. We laughed delightedly at the antics of baboons on the highway below. I carefully poked my head through the open window, feeling the breeze through my hair, and watched the train snake around the curved rail in front and behind me. Then, reaching the peak of the pass, the fertile apple and pear orchards of the lush Elgin Valley greeted us, and we arrived at the Elgin Railway Market. We had three-and-a-half hours to enjoy what it had to offer. The children on the train were happy to see climbing walls and a play area.
Steampunk Marketplace in Elgin
The sprawling building of the Steampunk Marketplace in Elgin featured two levels inside and was buzzing with activity. I wondered why it was called a ‘steampunk’ marketplace. While pointing to the roof, one vendor explained, “Steampunk pays homage to vintage technology in a modern setting. See, those huge airplane propellors serve as fans in the building.” I noticed numerous antiques and old pieces scattered throughout the market.
Live music on a small stage set the tone for an enjoyable time while one could browse a variety of stalls selling unusual crafts, clothing, jewelry, home produce, and much more. Karen and I explored the many food outlets and wine, beer, cider, and other tastings. In particular, the variety of Elgin Gins intrigued me.
Return Journey to Capetown
Too soon, it was time to return to Cape Town. We watched, fascinated, as the locomotives shunted into position. I went to shake Jan “Taxi” Fourie’s hand and thank him for his years of service and for keeping the traditions of the bygone steam train era alive.
We arrived back in Cape Town at the estimated time of 5:30 pm. Management had warned us that there might have been delays with regards to crossing other trains, infrastructure maintenance, and other safety checks. It was the end of a lovely day. Karen and I enjoyed stepping back in time, savoring our nostalgic steam train experience while enjoying a relaxed journey.
Thanks to Ceres Rail Company for hosting me. All opinions are my own.
