Story and photos by June Russell-Chamberlin (unless otherwise indicated)
Bellingham is the Jewell of Northwest Washington State
Only 90 miles from Seattle’s skyscrapers and traffic jams lies Bellingham in Washington state, enviably situated between Mt. Baker and the Salish Sea. It’s a place that thrives on outdoor adventure and the arts, fueled by meals that routinely incorporate fresh, local ingredients.
Feel like a kayak excursion in the morning and skiing after lunch? In Bellingham, you can do both and top it off with a trip to the spa. Throw in unique museums, live theater, and local craft beer, wine, and spirits, and you have the ingredients for an unforgettable weekend getaway.
Some parts of my visit were hosted by Visit Bellingham, but all opinions are my own.
Getting There and Getting Around
Located only 25 miles south of the Canadian border and 90 miles north of Seattle, Bellingham is easy to reach by car, train, or plane. Interstate Highway 5 (I-5) runs through it. Amtrak stops in the Fairhaven neighborhood, and flights from Seattle and elsewhere can bring you to the Bellingham International Airport. Shuttle buses also run from Seattle to Bellingham.
A car is helpful for getting around, especially if you plan on outdoor adventures. Bike paths crisscross the town. In the downtown and Fairhaven neighborhoods, I found it easy to leave the car parked and walk to everything. Do note, though, that the town is built on a slope. It’s all uphill from the water! Uber and Lyft both operate in Bellingham if you want a car-free weekend.
History
Long before Captain George Vancouver of the British Navy sailed into the bay and named it Bellingham in 1775, the Coastal Salishan people lived in the area. The tribes, including the Lummi and Nooksack, shared the fishing, hunting, and other resources surrounding the bay.
The first permanent white settlers arrived in 1852. Lumber, coal, fishing, and a small gold rush all contributed to growth along the bay. Speculators eager to make Bellingham the terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad added to the prosperity of the 1880s and early 1890s. Those hopes were dashed with the depression of 1893. The four towns in the area — Sehome, Fairhaven, Whatcom, and Bellingham — merged in 1903.
Play in Bellingham: Things to Do
Bellinghistory with the Good Time Girls
Wild frontier town antics, Prohibition, and ghosts get their moment in the history spotlight with walking tours by the Bellinghistory with the Good Time Girls. Various tours offer a lively and laughter-filled glimpse into the past with tales about the men and women who once called Bellingham and the Fairhaven neighborhood home.
SPARK Museum of Electrical Invention
One of the largest Tesla coils in the country is the star of the MegaZapper show at the SPARK Museum of Electrical Invention. The fun and engaging show is what science class should have been. Don’t miss your chance to step into the Cage of Doom, an adult-sized Faraday cage for an electrifying selfie.
Even if you can’t catch one of the weekend shows, you can still get hands-on in the museum. Try your hand at Morse code, eavesdrop on the telephone party line, and listen to vintage gramophones while you learn about the history of electricity. Visitors can discover nearly 1,000 artifacts, including one of the two remaining Edison light bulbs, an early toaster, and a portable X-ray machine. Reservations for the MegaZapper show are recommended.
Harris Street History Markers
Reminders of Fairhaven’s wilder days are underfoot along Harris Street, between the Amtrak station and Twelfth Street. There’s not a lot of text on these markers and no explanations for such statements as “Unknown Dead Men Displayed Here 1901.” Some are simple: “Diamond Palace – Owner Shot Dead in 1907.” Look for them set into the sidewalk and flowerbeds.
Fairhaven’s Art Galleries
Got a rainy afternoon? Spend it discovering the treasures in Fairhaven’s art galleries. Nearly a dozen are within easy walking distance of each other. Don’t skip Whatcom Art Market, a local artist cooperative that displays the artistic creations of its 45 members.
Paintings, photographs, wood carvings and much more fill the 2,100-square-foot gallery. Another must-see gallery is the Peter James Photography Gallery. Stunning, luminous metal prints showcase the natural beauty of Washington’s mountains and beaches.
Mount Baker TheatreMount Baker Theatre
The best way to see this glamorous 1927 theater is as it was intended — by going to a show. But if that doesn’t work with your schedule, do the next best thing and take a free tour. The docent-led tours explore from the the projection room to the basement. The theater is filled with original details, from the 600-pound ornate chandelier and dome to the Spanish-inspired furnishings. To arrange a tour, call the theater at (360) 733-5793.
More Things to Do in Bellingham
Whatcom Falls. This 10-foot cascade is about a one-minute walk from the parking lot at Whatcom Falls Park.
Boulevard Park-Taylor Dock Boardwalk. The boardwalk stretches for a quarter mile over the water between Boulevard Park and Taylor Dock.
Farmers Market. Some 100 booths display the region’s rich agricultural bounty and local artisans’ creative talents every Saturday at the Market Depot.
Stay in Bellingham: Hotel Leo
One of the historic buildings in downtown Bellingham is Hotel Leo, built in 1929. Its original details still grace the lobby and meeting rooms, including the tilework, chandeliers, fountains, and elevator doors. Just off the hotel lobby, Amendment 21 offers a full bar and small bites perfect for drinks before dinner or late-night snacks. Upstairs, guests can read in front of the fire or play a game of pool in the library.
Rooms at Hotel Leo combine modern, uncluttered design and plush comfort. The historic rooms, in the oldest part of the building, feature original tile and radiators. The studios and grand suites include a kitchenette or full kitchen and a built-in desk, perfect for working while traveling. I especially appreciated the charging cube beside the bed.
The hotel has on-site parking, but its central location means you can leave the car parked and walk to coffee, breakfast, shops, museums, and the Farmers Market. Even better than the location is the Hotel Leo staff. They were always eager to help and incredibly knowledgeable about the hotel’s history.
Where to Eat in Bellingham
From homestyle meals to swoon-worthy foodie fare, the restaurant scene in Bellingham dishes up a variety of flavors. Many restaurants source as many ingredients as possible from local farmers, ranchers, fishermen, bakers, and cheese makers.
Old Town Cafe
Start your day with one of the best breakfasts in town at Old Town Cafe, a local favorite since the 1960s. Try one of the fresh-baked pastries, seasonal mimosas, or hearty breakfast plates.
Camber
Grab a coffee at Camber to take along on your explorations. They also offer pastries, breakfast sandwiches and other quick bites.
Old World Deli
For lunch, grab an overstuffed sandwich (the Reuben is a local legend) and ingredients for a decadent picnic at Old World Deli. The shop cures its own meats and imports meats, cheeses, wine, and fancy grocery items from around the region and as far away as Europe. Eat at the deli or take your meal to go.
La Fiamma
The Pye Hole (the to-go window) at La Fiamma sells wood-fired pizza by the slice, or head inside for one of their pizzas. Try the vegetarian Greek Havoc or, if you’re a meat lovers, the Brooklyn Bridge with pepperoni, Italian sausage, mushrooms, and olives. La Fiamma is also a tasty choice for dinner.
Boundary Bay Brewing Company
For dinner, you’ll find beer and elevated pub grub at Boundary Bay Brewing Company. The extensive menu includes the usual burgers, salads, and nachos, but also includes gumbo, fish tacos, yam enchiladas, and other eclectic fare.
Carnal
Foodies will want to head for Carnal. The chef-driven menu takes advantage of whatever produce is in season, but Carnal’s famous slow-cooked short ribs with bone marrow, black truffle, and garlic sauce is a staple. Reservations are recommended.
The Black Cat
The Black Cat cafe is a lively spot for cocktails and lunch or dinner. The expansive windows of the third-floor restaurant (yes, there’s an elevator) offer views of the neighborhood. The menu features comfort food and bistro classics, such as salmon, burgers, mac and cheese (with or without Dungeness crab), and pot roast. Reservations are recommended.
Daytrip or Weekend Getaway Beautiful Bellingham
Bellingham is only 90 miles from Seattle, making playing on the Salish Sea or the trails around Mt. Baker an easy day trip. But with galleries to see, history to explore, and tempting farm-to-table fare to savor, you may need a weekend — or longer — to soak up all Bellingham offers.
