Stories and photos by Roxie LaFever
Stories and photos by Roxie LaFever
Jordan, officially the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, is an Arab country located on the east bank of the Jordan River. Although mostly a landlocked nation, it is bordered on the southwest by 26 miles of the Red Sea. The Dead Sea forms part of its western border. Surrounded by Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Syria, Israel, and Palestine, its history dates to biblical times with the country only achieving its independence from the British Empire in 1946. Before that time, Jordanian land was part of the Ottoman Empire, the Roman Empire, and the Nabatean Kingdom. Join me in visiting old ruins and exploring how life in Jordan today is both modern and yet closely tied to its past.
Many start this journey in Amman, the capital, which is a large and modern city. While I found it interesting, it is like many other cities. This photo journal will focus on the historical parts of the country, including Petra, the incredible “Rose City”.
Books and Movies about Jordan and the Holy Land
To prepare for your trip, there are books and movies I recommend.
Picture yourself roaming the Wadi Rum Desert as you watch the 1962 British historical drama of “Lawrence of Arabia,” starring Omar Sharif and Peter O’Toole. While jeeps are today’s normal transportation, camels are also available as you navigate this amazingly beautiful and intimidating land. Please travel with an experienced driver – this is nowhere to get lost.
Watch “Indiana Jones and the Last Crusades” to get in the mood. Pay special attention to the part where Jones and his father race on horseback through the deep rocky crevices of the Siq towards Petra’s (the “Rose City”) Treasury in search of the Holy Grail. Imagine yourself riding horses (maybe not racing) or camels, taking a horse-drawn carriage, or walking through this ancient city.
Margarite van Geldermalsen wrote a fascinating book titled “Married to a Bedouin.” As a New Zealand-born nurse, Margarite visited Petra, met a Bedouin souvenir salesman…spent the night in a cave, fell in love, and never left. The book gives the reader a glimpse into the life of the Bedouin. She describes what it’s like to live and raise a family in the caves of Petra. During your trip, you can visit their shop – they still live there.
And a must-read is “Leap of Faith: Memoir of an Unexpected Life” by Queen of Jordan Noor. Born in Washington, DC, and a Princeton grad from an Arab-American family, her studies and interest were often tied to the events ongoing in the Middle East. In 1974, her father introduced her to King Hussein of Jordon. This led to a whirlwind relationship and marriage, making her Noor Al Hussein, Queen of Jordan. Now the Dowager Queen, she has lived an amazing life as a humanitarian activist and mother of four children.
Highlights of Petra and other Places to See
The Ancient City of Petra, carved out of the pink rock by the Nabatean, dates to the 4th century before Christ. Known as the “Rose City” because of the pink rock, Petra was once considered an important trading post. It was first invaded by the Greeks, and then by the Romans. In 4th century A.D., much of it was destroyed by an earthquake. Later, Jordan was taken over by the Byzantines and abandoned by the 8th century. Many are surprised by the size of the city, the ornate buildings with carvings still intact, and how many Bedouin still live in the caves like their ancestors.
Wadi Rum is a UNESCO Heritage site in southern Jordan carved out of sandstone and granite rock.
It is vast, breathtaking, and like stepping into another world. The Bedouin live here as nomadic Arabs, and visitors can join them in their camps for meals and overnight accommodations in tents or small cabins. They can even partake in any ceremonial marriages or performances. Dance their customary dances around the evening fire, smoke the hookah, and learn how a Bedouin man can marry up to five wives – but they all must be treated equally. As explained to me, if a husband buys one wife a house then he must buy them all their own house. A young Bedouin gave this reason as to why he would likely only marry one as he smiled.
Madaba is a small town, but home to the oldest surviving cartographic map of the Middle East including the Holy Land and Jerusalem. Protected now inside the Byzantine Church of Saint George, visitors can photograph the mosaic map and be amazed at the level of detail from as early as 500 AD. Madaba is also a good place to explore, shop, and dine.
According to the final chapter of the Book of Deuteronomy, Moses ascended Mount Nebo to view the Land of Canaan, which God had said he would not enter. He died in Moab. Mount Nebo is the final resting place of Moses and offers the history of his journey and life as well as the personal opportunity to look across into the Promised Land.
The Dead Sea should be experienced at least once. Float effortlessly in these salt-laden waters, rub yourself with the healing muds, and look across to the West Bank and the Qumran Caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.
And finally, visit the Bethany Baptismal Site, the historically documented site where John baptized Jesus in the Jordan River. The actual site (picture included) is no longer directly on the river as it has naturally migrated over the past 2,000+ years. It is close by and fenced off to preserve the area, which includes ancient 2,000-year-old steps and parts of the churches that were built there in the early years. While Israel also lays claim to the baptismal site (on their side of the Jordan River), please refer to https://www.baptismsite.com for the Letters of Authentication from three Catholic Popes and many others.
Now enjoy the photos from two of my visits to this historic and awe-inspiring land. I hope that I have made you want to explore this country and all that it has to offer. I would love to return to this amazing land.
Photo Journal for Jordan
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