Story and photos by Julie Diebolt-Price (unless otherwise indicated)
Early Days in Door County
Door County, Wisconsin, is a favorite destination in the upper Midwest in all seasons of the year, and is famous for cherries, cheese, and fish boils. I was there in early fall, just as the leaves started turning their brilliant fall colors. The fall foliage rivals the colorful display in the New England states.
Door County is one of the top cherry producing regions in the country. Harvests typically produce between 8 and 15 million pounds of cherries per year. Imagine spring in Door County with more than 2,000 acres of cherry orchards in bloom! Wisconsin cheesemakers are some of the best in the world. Follow along and find out how I found the best cheese curds in Wisconsin right in Door County.
Native Americans were the earliest nomadic inhabitants of the Door peninsula followed by hunter-gatherers with more permanent homes. The Potawatomi and Menominee Nations were the largest in the region.In the 1600s, French explorers discovered the territory, established trade routes, and it became a hub for white settlers. Founded in 1851, French Canadians from Quebec began settling in Door Countyin the 1870s and 1880s. They were followed by Austrian and German families with lumbering and commercial fishing as its main industries.
Where is Door County?
Door County was named for Death’s Door, the straight between the northernmost point of the Door peninsula and Washington Island. It’s also known as Porte des Morts (French for Death’s Door) the dangerous passage between Lake Michigan and Green Bay. The waters around the peninsula contain over 275 shipwrecksand small, uninhabited islands dot the landscape. The straightfreezes over in winter, andtheykeep it open with an ice-cuttership so the residentscan make their round-tripjourney every day.
While ridesharing has come to Door County, you need a vehicle to get around as there is no public transportation. I found it easy to navigate the peninsula because two main roads run north and south. The peninsula is only 18 miles wide at the base, is 70 miles long, and gets narrower as you head north. It’s hard to get lost in Door County.
Driving
From Minnesota and the Twin Cities, take I-94 to Highway 29 into Green Bay. Then, follow the signs to Sturgeon Bay.
From Chicago, take I-94 to Milwaukee, then I-43 towards Green Bay, then Highway 57 north. Two different routes take you through Door County: I-57 on the Lake Michigan side or I-43 on the peninsula’s west side.
Airplane
Green Bay hosts the nearest commercial airport to Door County, which is Austin Straubel International Airport (GRB). Ridesharing and name-brand car rental agencies serve this airport.
Boat
If you come to Door County on your own vessel, many marinas accommodate travelers around the peninsula’s shores.
Ferry
The historic SS Badger car and passenger ferry transverses Lake Michigan daily on Highway 10 (you can see it on the map) between Manitowoc, Wisconsin, and Ludington, Michigan. I departed from Manitowoc on the 2 pm sailing and was fortunate that the sky was clear and the crossing smooth. The journey can be challenging in rough weather on Lake Michigan.
Ghost Tours and Lighthouses in Door County
Door County Trolley
The Door County Trolley offers the region’s most comprehensive and entertaining tours. I booked four tours, and it was money well spent. The guides were knowledgeable and entertaining. Passenger management was well-planned and executed by the friendly staff. And Door County Trolley is the best place to get souvenirs, snacks, and beverages before and after the tours.
Narrated Scenic Tour
Start your visit to Door County with this 1.5-hour tour. Scenic stops, legends, and lore deliver the best overview of the county. This is especially appealing during the leaf-peeping season in October.
Ghost Tour
Tales of sunken ships, haunted lighthouses, and mysterious happenings entertain guests on this after-dark tour. It was a pleasant evening diversion.
Lighthouses
Stops at Eagle Bluff Lighthouse (on the Lighthouse Tour and the Ghost Tour) and Cana Island Light Station were highlights of my visit. Cana Island Lighthouse was closed most of the summer for restoration. It opened to visitors just two weeks before my visit. The new white siding was striking against the blue sky.
Door County Wildwood Market
The Carlson family has called Carlson’s Island View Orchard home in Sister Bay for five generations. Adolf Carlson came to the United States from Sweden in 1846 and bought the land, which has been in the family since then.
Cherry trees were first planted in 1915 and the trees were a huge success. They are still today. During World War II, there was a shortage of workers to pick the cherries because of tire and fuel rationing. To solve this problem, in 1945, German prisoners of war were brought to Door County to help with the harvest. They were housed in the building where the Wildwood Market is today.
As the cherry harvest changed over the years with automation that allows a whole cherry tree to be shaken and harvested in less than 30 seconds, Door County Wildwood Market works hard to preserve the history of the building and the Carlson family.
Wine, Spirits, & Brew Tour
Because of the light rain, it was a great day to taste our way through Door County on the Trolley. There were four destinations on our Wine, Spirits, & Brew Tour.
One Barrel Brewing Company allowed us to choose one large glass of their specials for the day. I opted for a taster of a hard cider, which was delicious.
Door County Distillery presented a flight of four spirit drinks–Cherry Brandy Old Fashioned, Cherry Blossom, Old Man Car’s Lemonade, and my favorite, the Bloody Mary.
Door Peninsula Winery offered wines from many vintners. We stood at a long counter, elbow to elbow, and enjoyed many small sips.
Harbor Ridge Winery/Wisconsin Masters Cheese presented cheese tasting along with our wine tasting. The pairings were remarkable.
Segway the Door
If you’ve never been on a Segway, don’t miss the opportunity when you’re in Door County. Tours on a Segway give you a different view of a destination you just can’t experience inside a vehicle. Segway the Door have expert guides to get you on and off the ferry and show you all the important sites on Washington Island.
Riding a Segway and getting your “sea” legs after just a few minutes is very easy. We met our guide at the Washington Island Ferry Line terminal in Northport–the tip of Door County. After considerable time orienting the guests to the mechanics, we boarded the ferry for a 30-minute ride through Death’s Door to Washington Island.
Fortunately, the weather was sunny, although it was a chilly breeze riding the Segway. Be sure to wear layers and bring rain gear in case of inclement weather.
Great Places to Stay in Door County
VRBOs
Many vacation rentals throughout Door County offer lodging at all price levels–budget, mid-range, and luxury.
My favorite Door County lodging was the Marina View condo in Sister Bay. It was across the street from the marina and had a stunning second-floor view of Green Bay.
This fully furnished (including washer and dryer) property was a five-minute walk to Al Johnson’s Restaurant and a couple more minutes to other fine and casual dining restaurants in downtown Sister Bay.
The spacious rooms accommodate eight people in three bedrooms. The well-appointed kitchen is open to the dining and living areas with big picture windows overlooking the water. The balcony, also overlooking the marina and water, has a table and chairs suitable for al fresco dining or working on electronic devices. It’s a favorite spot if you are working during your trip or just keeping in touch electronically.
When I was in Sturgeon Bay, I stayed in a mom-and-pop cottage on the Green Bay waterfront nestled amongst pine trees and luxury resorts.
In Egg Harbor, I stayed in a small condo on the Green Bay waterfront, suitable for two people. This property was close to the Door County Trolley and convenient for excursions from there. Egg Harbor is in the middle of Door County on the west coast.
The White Gull Inn, located in Fish Creek, comes highly recommended. This historic inn, established in 1896, is open all year round and offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner, along with fish boils on select nights. Accommodations include suites and cottages, some with whirlpool baths and fireplaces.
Shoulder season Midweek and Three Nights for Two packages are appealing. The package that intrigues me the most is the White Gull Romance Package, which includes a horse-drawn carriage ride and a bottle of bubbly.
While Two Rivers and Manitowoc is not in Door County, I mention them here because Manitowoc is the car ferry port to and from Michigan. If you stay in either of these neighboring towns, you can meet arriving passengers mid-day, be on time for your 2 pm departure, and still get lots of sightseeing done in the morning or afternoon.
My stay in Manitowoc in the Guest Home was a comfortable, older home in a modest but safe neighborhood. It seemed like grandma just stepped out so I could spend a few nights in her house. Fully furnished with four bedrooms and a full bathroom upstairs, the downstairs bedroom was convenient and snug with a toilet and sink.
Toys, books, and plenty of brochures and suggestions for local attractions and eateries filled the shelves in the living room. The owner was very responsive as she lived nearby.
Great Places to Eat in Door County
There are many great choices for dining in Door County. Some are experiences not to be missed, like a traditional fish boil, and goats on the roof. Here are a few of my favorites.
Waterfront Mary’s Bar & Grill, Sturgeon Bay
Waterfront Mary’s in Sturgeon Bay was my destination for the traditional fish boil. Fish boils are a traditional meal that served many people when, in years past, the fishermen came in from the lake with their catch. The tradition has endured and is now a tourist attraction at many restaurants in Door County. Fish boils are served two or three evenings a week, and reservations are usually required. Waterfront Mary’s offered two seatings when I was there in September. I chose the later seating so the flames would be more spectacular after dark.
The reason for making the pot boil over with kerosene thrown on the flames is to boil off the scum formed on the top from the oily fish as it cooks. The meal from the fish boil pot includes white fish, carrots, potatoes, and onions served with rye bread and drawn butter. It is always served with cherry pie and vanilla ice cream for dessert.
Al Johnson’s, Sister Bay
When you come to Sister Bay, you must visit Al Johnson’s Swedish Restaurant and Butik (boutique). This is the world-renowned restaurant with goats on the roof. Roofs in Sweden are made of sod because farmers built their houses into the sides of hills so the animals and goats could graze on the roof. A friend of Al’s, who liked to play jokes, attempted to put a goat on this roof in 1973. The goat didn’t like it and wouldn’t have it. Later, the friend successfully got the goat on the roof and started the tradition of goats on the roof of Al Johnson’s restaurant in Sister Bay. The goats are on the roof during the tourist season of May through October from 9 am until 5 pm.
I requested several traditional Swedish dishes for my breakfast. They included Swedish crispbread crackers, pickled herring, Swedish pancakes (like crepes), and a Swedish meatball. I topped everything with the delicious lingonberry jam. It was a great smorgasbord of flavors and textures.
Chop Steakhouse, Sister Bay
Chop Steakhouse specializes in steak, seafood, and cocktails. It’s upscale but casual, with relaxed seating. They recommend making reservations, but I was fortunate to be seated right away when I arrived at the dinner hour. My meal started with Yorkshire Pudding and a light, savory mushroom soup. I chose the Crispy Duck for my entrée over garlic mashed potatoes. Everything was delicious and the service was great.
The English Inn, Fish Creek
We stopped for lunch at The English Inn in Fish Creek on our Wine, Spirits, & Brew Tour with Door County Trolley. The setting was remarkable, with a knight in shining armor on a steed guarding the front of the restaurant. The gardens surrounding the building were still flowering when I was there in September and made such a nice setting.
Renard’s, Sturgeon Bay
When I was planning my trip to Door County, I learned that cheese curds are a “thing” in Wisconsin. Here’s how I found the best Wisconsin cheese curds at Renard’s Artisan Cheese in Sturgeon Bay.
Final Thoughts on Door County
Many exciting activities throughout the peninsula will keep you entertained, well-fed, and comfortably housed. I spent seven nights in Door County and felt secure at every one of them. The locals are proud to say there is no crime in their towns. Door County is perfect for solo travelers, couples, and families.
While you are in the area, check out these attractions in nearby Green Bay.
