My wife and I traveled 12 hours on a direct flight from Houston to Istanbul for an eight-day adventure to the historic city. Istanbul is a sprawling metropolis of 22,000,000 people and about 200,000 cats, with part of the city in Europe and the other part across the Bosphorus in Asia. We spent four days in the Old Town and another four days in the Besiktas area, where we attended the fabulous Society of American Travel Writers (SATW) Annual Convention.
Istanbul’s Old Town (known as Sultanahmet or Fatih District) is a highly walkable area filled with many of the city’s most famous historic and cultural attractions. The compact nature of the Old Town makes it ideal for exploring on foot, and walking around this area allows you to soak in the rich history, architecture, and vibrant atmosphere. We arrived three days before the SATW Conference to explore Old Town. We then headed north about five miles to spend four wondrous nights based at the Conrad Hilton Bosphorus in the Beşiktaş section just north of the Galata Tower.
Old Town Landmarks in the Sultanahmet
Hagia Sophia
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this former church, mosque, museum, and then a mosque again is an architectural masterpiece known for its massive dome and beautiful mosaics. Like many visitors, I had Hagia Sophia at the top of my list of must-see attractions in Istanbul because of its architectural and historical significance. Hagia Sophia was originally built as a Christian cathedral by the Byzantine Emperor Justinian I between 532 and 537 AD. It was the largest cathedral in the world for nearly 1,000 years and served as the seat of the Patriarch of Constantinople. After the Ottoman Empire conquered Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) in 1453, Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque.
From 1935 to 2020 Hagia Sophia served as a museum. Then, in July 2020, the Turkish government converted Hagia Sophia back into a mosque, while still allowing visitors of all faiths to explore its stunning architectural features. Today, visitors can see most of the mosque with some restricted times and places to accommodate Muslim prayers and tradition. We covered Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome, and a carpet merchant on our excellent tour with The Tour Guy.
Topkapi Palace
Topkapi Palace is one of Istanbul’s most significant historical landmarks and a must-see attraction for anyone visiting the city. Once the residence of the Ottoman sultans, it is now a museum filled with treasures, stunning architecture, and a rich history. The Imperial Harem is perhaps the most fascinating part of the palace. It was the private quarters of the sultan and his family, as well as the place where the sultan’s concubines, wives, and children lived.
The Imperial Treasury houses an incredible collection of priceless artifacts, including the famous Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker’s Diamond (one of the largest diamonds in the world). The palace is home to the Sacred Relics of Islam, a collection of items that are said to have belonged to the Prophet Muhammad and other important religious figures. The Palace Kitchens are vast and beautifully restored, showcasing the scale and complexity of the Ottoman imperial court’s food preparation. Other key areas of Topkapi Palace include the Sultan’s Chambers, The Imperial Gardens, The Gate of Salutation (Bab-üs Selam), The Sultan’s Treasury and Arms Collection
The Blue Mosque
Known for its stunning blue tiles and impressive six minarets, the Blue Mosque is one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks. Baris, our guide with The Tour Guy, did an excellent job of describing this impressive building. The stunning architecture is centered on its massive central dome, which is surrounded by smaller domes and semi-domes. The dome’s design, which seems to float above the building, was an amazing architectural feat of its time. The Blue Mosque is one of the few mosques in the world with six minarets, which, along with its domes, adds to its grandeur.
The mosque is famously known as the “Blue Mosque” because of the blue İznik tiles that adorn its interior. These tiles cover the walls of the prayer hall and are decorated with intricate floral and geometric patterns in shades of blue, green, and white. The tiles, numbering over 20,000, create a mesmerizing effect and contribute to the mosque’s serene and tranquil atmosphere. The main prayer hall is vast and can accommodate up to 10,000 worshippers. It is open to the public outside prayer times and allows visitors to experience the space’s quiet reverence.
Basilica Cistern
An underground marvel built by the Romans, this ancient cistern features hundreds of columns and offers a cool respite from the city’s hustle and bustle. The Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan Sarnıcı) is one of Istanbul’s most fascinating and atmospheric landmarks. It is an ancient underground water reservoir built by the Romans and later used by the Byzantines and Ottomans. The cistern, with its dramatic lighting and towering columns, creates a mystical atmosphere that transports visitors back in time.
The Basilica Cistern is located beneath the streets of Sultanahmet, near Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. It was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I to supply water to the Great Palace of Constantinople and other buildings in the area. The cistern’s atmosphere is hauntingly beautiful, with dim lighting, the soft sound of water dripping, and the reflection of its 336 marble columns shimmering in the still water.
One of the most famous features of the cistern is the pair of columns with bases carved from Medusa’s heads. These two Columns – one upside-down and one sideways – have Medusa heads as bases, and are surrounded by mystery and legend. It is believed that the heads were reused from an older Roman structure and placed in the cistern as part of the column bases. The Basilica Cistern has served as a backdrop for several movies and television shows, most notably in Dan Brown’s “Inferno” (2016) and the James Bond film “From Russia with Love” (1963), where the cistern was used for a dramatic chase scene.
Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı) is one of the world’s largest covered markets – a labyrinth of shops that is the perfect place to buy Turkish rugs, jewelry, spices, and souvenirs. The Grand Bazaar is one of the most iconic landmarks in Istanbul and one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. With its intertwining streets, colorful stalls, and rich history, it’s a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Istanbul.
The Grand Bazaar was established in 1455 by Sultan Mehmed II. The Grand Bazaar consists of over 60 streets and more than 4,000 shops spread across an area of around 30,700 square meters (330,000 square feet). It is one of the largest covered markets in the world. The market is divided into sections, each dedicated to a specific type of product. Some areas are known for jewelry, while others focus on textiles, spices, ceramics and pottery, antiques, or leather goods. One of the key aspects of shopping in the Grand Bazaar is bargaining. Haggling is expected, and it’s part of the fun. Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price, as it is a common practice in Turkish markets.
Spice Bazaar
The Spice Bazaar is a colorful market offering spices, sweets, and other Turkish delicacies. It’s a sensory delight with vibrant colors and aromatic smells. We browsed through the vast halls enjoying the sights and smells, and ended up buying a variety of spices at the Develi Baharat booth, known for its smiley faces carved in the mounds of spices as well as on the faces of the owner and staff. Our take-away treasures were vacuum-packed in plastic bags fit for air travel, and included curries, peppercorns, cinnamon, cumin, and a Turkish Ottoman blend.
Spice Bazaar hallway © Scott Kendall
Galata Tower
Galata Tower is a medieval tower offering panoramic views of the city, including the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. The Galata Tower is one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks and offers spectacular panoramic views of the city. Located in the Galata district, it stands out due to its historical significance, architectural beauty, and the stunning vistas it offers. Known as the Tower of Christ, it was later incorporated into the walls of the Galata district, which was under Genoese control at the time. It has a conical roof and a cylindrical body, making it one of the most recognizable structures in Istanbul’s skyline.
Sunset Bosphorus Cruise Between Europe and Asia
My wife and I took a wonderful sunset boat trip along the Bosphorus Strait on our third night in Istanbul. The views from the water offers spectacular views of the city, both on the European and Asian sides. We saw palaces, mansions, and historic sites along the way. As the sun sets, the majestic silhouette of the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque stands out against the orange and pink hues of the sky, making it one of the most photographed spots in Istanbul.
The 15 July Martyrs Bridge and the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge are architectural marvels that span the Bosphorus. They look stunning during sunset, with the warm light casting dramatic shadows across the strait. We also passed very close to the iconic Maiden’s Tower on a small island midway between Europe and Asia. This small, picturesque tower located on a tiny islet in the Bosphorus is one of the most romantic spots in Istanbul.
One of the most luxurious Ottoman palaces, Dolmabahçe Palace, lies along the European shore. The grandeur of the palace, with its neoclassical and Ottoman-style architecture, is especially captivating as the sun sets behind it. The Kempinski Resort in the historic Ciragan Palace is also eye-catching from the water. On the Asian side, the Beylerbeyi Palace is another magnificent site to see during the cruise, along with traditional Ottoman wooden yali houses.
Dolmabahçe Palace
One afternoon we were led by our tour guide, Emma, through the beautiful Dolmabahce Palace. Dolmabahce is a lavish palace on the Bosphorus, blending European and Ottoman architectural styles. It was the residence of Ottoman sultans in the 19th century, and is one of the most iconic landmarks in Turkey. Built between 1843 and 1856 during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecid I, Dolmabahçe replaced Topkapi Palace as the primary administrative center of the Ottoman Empire.
The palace combines Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassical styles with traditional Ottoman elements. As with most Turkish palaces, the Harem Section is a central point at Dolmabahce Palace. Another highlight is the room where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey, spent his last days in this palace. His bedroom has been preserved as it was at the time of his death in 1938.
Suleymaniye Mosque
Suleymaniye Mosque, completed in 1557, is a magnificent complex with airy Byzantine-like domes and four minarets that make it a stunning example of Ottoman architecture. It was designed by Mimar Sinan, the favored imperial architect, who contributed to over 300 structures across the empire. The Süleymaniye Mosque is one of the best-known sights of Istanbul and from its location on the Third Hill it commands an extensive view of the city around the Golden Horn. It is considered a masterpiece of Ottoman architecture and one of Mimar Sinan’s greatest works, and is the largest Ottoman-era mosque in the city.
Tekfur Palace
Tekfur Palace is an important historical site in Istanbul, offering a glimpse into the Byzantine era of the city. Built in the late 13th or early 14th century, Tekfur Palace is one of the few surviving examples of Byzantine secular architecture. The building features a typical Byzantine construction style with alternating layers of bricks and stones. During the Byzantine Era, it likely served as a residence for members of the imperial family or high-ranking officials. After the Ottoman Conquest of Constantinople in 1453, the palace saw varied uses, including as a workshop for ceramics and later as a zoo. In recent years, the palace underwent extensive restoration to preserve its historical integrity. Today, it houses exhibitions showcasing Byzantine art, ceramics, and other artifacts, offering visitors a chance to explore Istanbul’s rich history.
Kempinski Caragan Palace
The Çırağan Palace Kempinski combines historical splendor with unparalleled luxury, making it a standout destination for travelers seeking a regal experience in Istanbul. This impressive resort on the Bosphorus hosted our closing ceremony for the Society of American Travel Writers. As we entered the historic resort, the exquisite staircases, amazing chandeliers, and artistic architecture welcomed our members on our final evening. What a fitting end to a fabulous week in Istanbul!
Conrad Hilton Bosphorus
The Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus was the ideal location to host our Society of American Travel Writers Annual Convention. The Conrad is a luxury hotel located in the heart of Istanbul, offering modern sophistication, exceptional service, and breathtaking views of the Bosphorus. The Conrad features 553 elegant rooms and suites, blending contemporary design with luxurious comfort. Many rooms and suites offer floor-to-ceiling windows with spectacular views of the Bosphorus or the city.
Our room overlooked the spacious park below and the city beyond. Comfortable beds and plenty of room to spread out and work as needed was a big plus. The reliable and easy to connect Wi-Fi was a plus. The in-house Manzara Restaurant, known for its Mediterranean cuisine and exceptional views of the Bosphorus, was outstanding. For expertly crafted cocktails and one of the best sunset views in Istanbul, the Summit Bar and Terrace is one of the best rooftop bars in the city.
Hotel Miniature in Old Town
Before the SATW Conference, we spent three lovely nights at The Hotel Miniature Istanbul in the heart of Istanbul’s historic district. Known for its intimate charm, personalized service, and unique design, it offers a cozy yet luxurious experience for travelers. The hotel is nestled in Sultanahmet, just a short walk from major landmarks like the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern, and the Grand Bazaar.
Rixos Tersane Istanbul
The SATW Awards Dinner was hosted by the beautiful Rixos Tersane Istanbul. Located in the heart of Istanbul, this impressive property is part of a redevelopment project transforming Ottoman-era naval shipyards into a cultural and lifestyle hub. With its central location, guests can explore nearby landmarks such as the Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the Grand Bazaar. The hotel’s prime location along the Golden Horn offers stunning waterfront views and a tranquil atmosphere amidst the bustling city. The hotel features 432 elegantly designed rooms and suites, including 57 suites with views of the Golden Horn.
Food in Istanbul
Istanbul is blessed with a wide range of culinary offerings. Most prevalent are the Ottoman-inspired cuisines. Some of the iconic dishes include Kebabs, Mezes, and Seafood. You will find Hummus, Haydari, Ezme, and Dolma on many local restaurant menus. This bustling city is also well-known for its Street Food. Popular street foods include Simit, a circular sesame-crusted bread, and Kokoreç, grilled lamb intestines seasoned with spices and served in bread. Baklava, made with layers of flaky pastry filled with nuts and sweetened with syrup or honey, is one of the best-known and beloved foods of Istanbul.
And don’t forget the Turkish Tea and Coffee, cultural staples.
We enjoyed wonderful meals at the Conrad Hilton Bosphorus Hotel, the Rixos Tersane Hotel, and the Kempinski Ciragan Palace Hotel. We also had a memorable meal at Michelin-starred Deraliye Restaurant and the lovely Suad Restaurant deep in the heart of Old Town. One afternoon we partook in a traditional lunch of rice and beans at Ali Baba, which touts itself as “The Best Bean Restaurant of Turkey,” in the shadows of the Majestic Suleymaniye Mosque.
Istanbul, An Enchanted City in Turkiye
During our eight days in Istanbul we only scratched the surface of this bustling metropolis of some 22,000,000 people. I hope some of my stories, photos, and videos provide some insight into this amazing historic city.
