Story and photos by Scott Kendall (unless otherwise indicated)
Play, Stay, and Eat in Amazing Ireland
Map of 10 Day Ireland Road Trip
Visiting Ireland has long been a dream of ours. My wife and I finally made it to this bucket-list paradise, and traveled through the Emerald Isle for ten wondrous days. We flew from Houston into Dublin on Ireland’s east coast, the capital and largest city, to start our adventures.
Renting a car to drive on the wrong (to us) side of the road, we spent two nights at each of our four main destinations. Overnights in Dublin, Killarney, Doolin, and Galway as bases worked out well, limiting driving time and allowing us to spend some fun times at each destination.
As you can see on the map, our path and destinations included: Dublin, Kilkenny Castle, Waterford Crystal, Killarney, Loch Lein Country House, Kate Kearney’s Cottage, Gap of Dunloe, Ring of Kerry, Barrtra Seafood Restaurant in Lahinch, Doolin, Cliffs of Moher, Ballinalacken Castle Hotel, The Burren, Galway, Connemara, Kylemore Abbey, Ashford Castle, and Cong.
Come along as we share our ten day itinerary in southern Ireland.
Dublin, Capital City of Ireland
With over a million people and 1,000 pubs in this capital city, Dublin is the heart and soul of Irish culture and economics. Dublin is a very walkable city, and once we parked our car, we were able to walk to all of our destinations.
We thoroughly enjoyed our tours of the Guinness Brewery and the Jameson Distillery as well as numerous pubs. To be clear, we also enjoyed many non-alcoholic-themed attractions.
We were fascinated by historic Trinity University with the Book of Kells and the famous Long Room of the Library. The Long Room is the largest single chamber library in the world, and holds over 200,000 books. Another fun place to explore was Stephen’s Green, the Central Park of Dublin, with acres of green space to play and relax.
Dublin Castle, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Christchurch, Temple Bar, The Spire, and several excellent museums are among other notable attractions in Dublin.
Kilkenny Castle
Kilkenny Castle, about an hour and a half south of Dublin, was originally constructed in the 13th century by William Marshall, the fourth Earl of Pembroke. The impressive Norman structure is open for tours, where visitors can enjoy the interior rooms as well as the 50 acres of the grounds and gardens.
Rooms include the Chinese Withdrawing Room, The Tapestry Room, The Nursery, and the long, impressive Picture Gallery. The magnificent Kilkenny Castle is another fun thing to do in Ireland.
Waterford Crystal Factory Tour
The House of Waterford Crystal Factory tour was fascinating. Of course, visitors get to admire the many crystal works of art by one of the premier crystal makers in the world. In addition, they get to see a behind the scenes factory tour to see how these works of art are made.
For an hour we were captivated to see the wooden molds, a glass blowing demonstration, marking and cutting demonstrations, and special pieces made for celebrities, sports championships, and other special groups. The skill and meticulous attention to detail by the talented artisans is amazing to view.
Visitors can also partake in a special afternoon tea, served on an exquisite Wedgewood “Butterfly Bloom” tea set. The three courses include scones with cream and jam, savory sandwiches, and a selection of desserts along with tea or coffee.
The House of Waterford Crystal is just 30 minutes south of Kilkenny, and should be on your list as one of the fun things to do in Ireland.
Killarney
After a wonderful time at The House of Waterford Crystal, we headed west on a three hour drive to Killarney. Killarney is the perfect base to see the Killarney National Park, the Gap of Dunloe, the famous Ring of Kerry, and the fabulous Kate Kearney’s Cottage.
On the weekend we were in town, the big soccer game was in town, and the downtown area was packed with spectators for the big soccer game. Many others were visiting the National Park, the golf courses, fishing spots, great restaurants and pubs, and other fun activities in this beautiful part of southwest Ireland.
Ring of Kerry
The Ring of Kerry is definitely a must thing to do in Ireland. A circular route of just over 100 miles in southwest Ireland, this exhilarating road takes you around inland mountains and along the coastal perimeter through the towns of Sneem, Waterville, Cahersiveen, Glenbeigh, and Kenmare.
Although we drove most of the time during our visit, we took a day tour by bus around the Ring of Kerry with Wild Kerry Day Tours. This gave us a chance to relax and admire the views, and also reduced the stress of driving the narrow, winding roads along the Ring of Kerry. We stopped several times for photo ops, lunch with a view of the Skellig Islands, a sheep dog demonstration, and a medieval village.
Loch Lein Country House in Killarney
The beautiful Loch Lein Country House is one of the best places to stay in Killarney. With sweeping views of Loch Lein and the Killarney National Park, Loch Lein Country House is located in a quiet, secluded slice of nature, but just minutes from downtown and area attractions.
Owners Paul and Annette Corridan have been managing the inn for about twenty years, and have created the perfect place for getaways and special events. The friendly, casual but professional service by Paul, Annette, and the rest of the staff creates a very comfortable, relaxed ambience.
Our luxurious room was beautifully decorated, and the floor to ceiling windows offered an expansive view of Loch Lein and the Killarney National Park. We could not have asked for a better place to stay on our visit to Killarney.
A full breakfast buffet along with a hot breakfast menu served in the beautiful dining room was a great way to start our day. They also serve dinner and have a small cozy bar to finish your day.
Kate Kearney’s Irish Nights and Gateway to the Gap of Dunloe
Irish music. Irish food. Irish dancing. Irish craic.
Kate Kearney’s Cottage in Killarney has all of these in droves. Also popular for the beginning of the famous Dunloe Gap Trail, Kate Kearney’s Cottage is the perfect place to get a real taste of Ireland. Julie and I were fortunate to attend Traditional Irish Nights on two separate occasions, and immensely enjoyed both nights.
On the first evening, band leader Barry delivered on the banjo, bagpipes, flute, and vocals. He was joined by Reidun on the harp and Rosie on the flute and vocals. Amon replaced Rosie the second night, playing the button box and joining in on some vocals. Their repertoire of lively as well as solemn Irish tunes entertained us all night, complemented by some top notch Irish dancing from Keira, Maeve, and Miriam.
For dinner, I started with a beer and a delicious salad with fresh greens, tomatoes, and fried brie. For my main I enjoyed the lamb with mashed potatoes and a delicious brown gravy. Julie had the Salmon as her entree, and we both finished with the tasty dessert consisting of a trio of apple pie, chocolate cake, and a flavorful cream pie.
In addition to the fantastic food, drink, music, and service Kate Kearney’s is known for, it is also known as the starting point of the scenic Gap of Dunloe trail. Visitors can walk or ride ponies or pony carts down to the water, where a number of boats are available to continue the adventure through the gorgeous Gap of Dunloe.
The excellent food, smiling service, and the energy and enthusiasm of the music and dance made for a fantastic evening. We felt fortunate to experience authentic Irish food, music, and dance, all with a generous serving of craic, at Kate Kearney’s in Killarney!
(As I learned, craic is an Irish expression meaning “a good time, a fun experience, or a friendly conversation.”)
Barrtra Seafood Restaurant in Lahinch
At the end of our trek through the beautiful countryside in western Ireland, our reward was the fabulous Barrtra Seafood Restaurant in Lahinch. Julie and I enjoyed one of the best meals we had in Ireland at Barrtra Seafood.
Founded in 1988 by Paul and Theresa O’Brien, the tradition continues with son Ruben and several family members among the very capable staff. Geoff was our excellent server, and was extremely polite and professional in explaining the menu and answering our many questions.
Barrtra is proud to have an extensive garden where they grow many of their own herbs and vegetables. Talented Chef Lynn showed off her culinary skills with a delicious pan fried Halibut, beautifully plated with fresh herbs and flowers. The Potatoes Gratin and stir fried veggies were the perfect complement to the fish and an excellent glass of Dom. De Montmarin Sauvignon Blanc.
For dessert, we were in foodie heaven with the fabulous Heartbeet chocolate cake with homemade vanilla ice cream. Next time we will be tempted to try something off the Surprise Menu. Diners choose a fish, meat, or vegetarian entree that includes five courses selected by Ruben and his staff complemented by hand picked wine pairings.
The lovely restaurant recently underwent a new exterior paint job. The grounds overlook Lisconnor Bay to the rear and a large green pasture with frisky horses prancing in the front field. Four resident chickens provide added entertainment as they traipse through the yard. We also found out you can easily reach the restaurant on more major roads – we apparently came in the back way. However you get there, make the extra effort to get to Barrtra Seafood Restaurant in Lahinch, just 20 minutes from The Cliffs of Moher – you’ll be glad you did.
Doolin and The Cliffs of Moher
The Cliffs of Moher is the top tourist attraction in Ireland. These majestic cliffs on the Atlantic Ocean extend for about nine miles on the western coast of The Burren in Clare County.
The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre is an ideal place to start your exploration. This modern, eco-friendly welcome center was built into the hillsides, blending in with the the green landscapes. The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Centre features interactive exhibits, a cafe, and a gift shop on premises. Visitors can hike north or south along the coastal cliffs, and enjoy numerous birds and expansive views of the Atlantic Ocean.
Ballinalacken Castle Hotel near Doolin
Ballinalacken Castle Hotel near Doolin was the perfect place to stay and relax during our time in Doolin. Owners Cecilia and Declan O’Callaghan have created an idyllic getaway. Ruins of the nearby castle, luxurious rooms, fabulous food, and expansive views of Galway Bay make the Ballinalacken Castle Hotel ideal for a delightful stay.
On our first night there, we were treated to a fascinating tour of the castle ruins by Declan. Dating back to the 15th or early 16th century, this two-stage tower house survived the destruction that faced many other castles and homes during war-torn ravages by Cromwell and his forces.
For dinner, Julie and I had the flavorful baked cod. Tender fillets with a wine sauce, asparagus spears, and sides of potatoes were absolutely delicious. Sticky Toffee Pudding completed our fabulous meal. Ballinalacken Castle Hotel also has a wonderful breakfast buffet and hearty items on their hot menu to get your day started right.
Ballinalacken Castle is just seven minutes from Doolin and 20 minutes to The Cliffs of Moher. In addition, many scenic hiking trails in The Burren are within a short drive, and Galway, Ashford Castle, and the beautiful Connemara are less than two hours away. And when you are not gallivanting across the Irish countryside, Ballinalacken Castle Hotel is the perfect place to relax in luxury, enjoy fabulous food, and savor the expansive views of the area.
The Burren
The Burren is an other-worldly section of Ireland known for its unique, rocky karst landscapes. Much of the cracked limestone pavements and rock formations created by glaciers is attractive to the casual walker as well as hard core hikers and climbers.
From Doolin, we drove about 20 minutes to The Burren Visitor Centre, a fascinating resource for information about the geological treasure. We then drove another ten minutes away to the popular Avalla Farm Loop Trail. The entire trail is just over four miles, and consists of both easy and moderate sections.
We were so lucky to run into Harry, a local farmer who takes care of his farm, his garden, his cows, and visitors to his beloved Burren. Originally from The Netherlands, Harry moved to Ireland in 1971 after spending a year in the US on Oklahoma farms. Just over twenty years ago, he and his wife bought the lovely Lough Avalla Farm in the middle of The Burren.
Julie and I were delighted when Harry invited us to tea at his charming stone shack just off the trail. We had a very enjoyable conversation with Harry and Emma, who served us tea, brownies, and tasty apple pie. I highly recommend hiking the beautiful Avalla Farm Loop in The Burren – and join Harry for a cup of tea!
Galway and the Connemara Peninsula
After a fabulous time in Doolin and The Burren, we headed north to Galway. This quintessential Irish town was a worthy last stop for our ten day adventure in Ireland.
We stayed at the comfortable Feeney’s Audubon Hotel in lovely Salthill, just a mile west of the old downtown area. We chose Salthill because of its relatively quiet location and the ease of walking to restaurants, the coastline promenade, and the fabulous Trad on the Prom.
Taking a day off from driving ourselves, we booked a day tour of Connemara with Lally Tours out of Galway. This fun bus tour took us to the lovely town of Killary, the magnificent Kylemore Abbey and Gardens, Connemara ponies, and numerous photo-worthy stops along the way.
Trad on the Prom in Galway, a Celebration of Irish Music and Dance
Trad on the Prom in Galway is the ultimate celebration of Irish music, culture, and dance. This entertaining performance kept the entire audience enthralled during the performance, with a mix of slower harmonies and lively get up and dance tunes. The band and dancers performing with Trad on the Prom in Galway consists of some of the biggest names in traditional Irish dance and music.
This fun-filled show delivers a line-up of world-class Irish musicians and dance stars who have thrilled audiences in Riverdance, The Chieftains, and Lord of the Dance. The star-studded cast features three members of the super-musical family of Fahy’s – Mairin, Gerard, and Yvonne, as well as Mairin’s husband, talented guitarist and vocalist Chris Kelly. Other band members have very impressive resumes, and one thing is for sure – they sure know how to put on a show!
We were mesmerized by the poetic athleticism of the dancers the night we attended. The enormously talented cast included numerous world champions, including Evan O’Brien, World Irish Champion; Claire Greaney, six times World Champion Irish Dancer; and several more champions. The guest vocalist on this night was Marc Roberts, who sang the number one hit Wild Atlantic Way.
The entire cast is phenomenal!
Ashford Castle, Prestigious 5-Star Hotel in Cong
Ashford Castle Hotel is one of the most prestigious hotels in Ireland – in fact, in all of Europe. This 800 year old castle, once owned by the Guinness family, is now a 5-Star Hotel. Fabulous rooms, restaurants, grounds, a variety of fun activities, and impeccable service make Ashford Castle the perfect place for any special occasion.
Among the many accolades Ashford Castle has won include being awarded Ireland’s only Forbes Five-Star hotel and the first Irish winner of Virtuoso ‘Best Hotel in the World’ in 2017. We had a lovely lunch in The Drawing Room, one of several beautiful venues to eat at The Ashford Castle Hotel.
The list of famous guests at The Ashford is long and storied. John Ford chose to house the stars of his movie here, including John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, when he filmed his classic film The Quiet Man, in the area. Other guests have included playwright Oscar Wilde, Ronald Reagan, John Lennon, George Harrison, Brad Pitt, Barbara Streisand, and other well-known celebrities.
Lovely Village of Cong, Filming Location for The Quiet Man
Adjacent to the grounds of Ashford Castle is the quaint village of Cong. Best known as the filming location for the movie classic The Quiet Man, Cong is a delightful place to visit. The movie starred John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara, two of the biggest screen legends of their time.
Before continuing on to Ashford Castle Hotel, we stopped and had tea at the Pat Cohan Bar, where many key scenes of The Quiet Man were filmed. There is a Quiet Man Museum as well as several other fun cafes, gift shops, and scenic views in the village.
Amazing Ireland!
Julie and I thoroughly enjoyed our time in the Emerald Isle. From Dublin to Kilkenny, Waterford, Killarney, the Ring of Kerry, Kate Kearney’s Cottage, Barrtra Seafood, Doolin, The Ballinalacken Castle Hotel, Galway, Trad on the Prom, Cong, the amazing Ashford Castle, and so much more, Ireland has something for everyone.
Thanks to Loch Lein Country House, Kate Kearney’s Cottage, Barrtra Seafood, and The Ballinalacken Castle Hotel for hosting us. All opinions are my own.
