Uncovering Famous Landmarks and Hidden Gems
Story and photos by Gwyn Goodrow
Play, Stay, and Eat in Tupelo, Mississippi
Where is Tupelo?
In Mississippi’s far northeast corner, Tupelo is a dynamic city capitalizing on the financial industry, manufacturing, and tourism. While Mississippi may be best known for down-home cooking, rolling farmland, and blues music, thriving cities like Tupelo attract increasing numbers of urban adventurers and nature lovers. Many travelers arrive in Tupelo by car, after a short drive from major airports in Memphis, Jackson, Nashville, Birmingham, or Huntsville.
Geography and Terrain Around Tupelo
Tupelo is in the Mississippi Hills region, which stretches east to west through 19 counties along the state’s northern border. This area covers the land from west Alabama to the place where the terrain changes near Memphis, and the terrain eases into the flattened soils of the Delta Region.
When to Visit Tupelo
Summertime in Mississippi can spark unbearably high temperatures, sometimes more than 100° F (37° C). In northeast Mississippi, summer days are hot and often muggy with subtropical humidity. However, spring, fall, and even winter bring great weather to the Magnolia State, making conditions favorable year-round for festivals, hiking, and outdoor tourist activities. Winters are delightfully short; only a few nights usually register below-freezing temperatures. There may be a few cold, windy, and wet days during winter, but generally, year-round temperatures vary comfortably from 34°F to 91°F (1° C to 33° C).
What Makes Tupelo, Mississippi Special?
Tupelo is where I re-discovered my joy in the music of Elvis Presley, connected with nature while hiking along the Natchez Trace Parkway, and found an appreciation for a historic shopping district that embraces the diversity of small businesses and entrepreneurship.
The Elvis Connection
The Graceland Mansion in nearby Memphis, Tennessee tells a story of fame; Tupelo articulates why Elvis Presley had the ambition to pursue that fame. In Tupelo, I saw the places where Elvis lived and played as a child. But what I felt goes beyond sites and memorial markers. I could feel Elvis’ ambitious dream growing as each Elvis-themed experience in Tupelo conveyed the story of a small family ladened trials and struggles and an ordinary boy who lived an extraordinary life through his unprecedented expression of music.
Reconnect with Nature
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a forested trail that runs 440 miles from Nashville, Tennessee, to Natchez, Mississippi, linking the Cumberland, Tennessee, and Mississippi rivers. The headquarters building is at mile marker 266 and these markers are important for visitors. The hiking trails, location history, terrain changes, and even flora are indicated on the mile marker maps. In addition, this Visitor’s Center is a popular location to connect with friends for hiking, biking and other group activities.
The Downtown Tupelo Shopping Experience
Main Street, Tupelo offers a strong presence with department stores, boutique gift shops, an art gallery, and historic buildings. Top that off with artistic wall murals and the famous guitar-theme landmarks, and it’s a day of immersive fun. The city has a modern vibe, grounded by history and flavored with pure southern hospitality.
Tupelo History
How did it all begin?
Centuries ago, Native Americans, mostly Chickasaw, lived in northeast Mississippi and built sacred mounds, some still visible today. Later, American Civil War battles on these same lands destroyed families, communities, and towns. Beyond those dark days, communities re-emerged with admirable resilience. Many legends explain that the Chickasaw tribal leaders settled in “old fields” west of Tupelo.
The area became a prominent location for the Chickasaw tribe, known as fierce warriors. Relics and settlement homesteads have been identified near Tupelo. In the mid-1500s, Hernando de Soto invaded northern Mississippi and battled the native Chickasaw tribes. The memorable 1736 Battle of Ackia occurred near present-day Tupelo when the Chickasaw people aligned with the British and successfully defended their homes against the French and Choctaw forces.
President Andrew Jackson’s mandated the Indian Removal Act of 1830 which required the Chickasaw people to leave their homeland and relocate west. Any who chose to remain were instructed to abandon their heritage and traditions and be assimilated into the culture of the incoming white settlers who used the land for farming.
A few decades later, these American settlers were in battle again on this land during the American Civil War. There were many military skirmishes in this area, in addition to the notable and decisive Civil War battles such as the Battle of Iuka, the Battle of Brice’s Crossroads, and the Battle of Tupelo. A one-acre memorial park managed by the National Park Service recognizes the soldiers’ sacrifices during the Battle of Tupelo.
Post Civil War Tupelo
After the civil war ended, northeast Mississippi returned to homestead agriculture with grain fields, cotton production, and livestock. In 1875, the town’s Main Street included three stores, a bank, a courthouse, and several other essential businesses. The population was slightly less than 100, and the town was barely more than a village, with no sidewalks or paved streets. When the Memphis & Birmingham Railroad built tracks in 1887, Tupelo was a crossroad to expansion, with rail transportation available in four directions.
During Reconstruction (after the civil war), Lee County became known for dairy farms and was a key production center for butter and milk. By 1880 Tupelo had thirty-seven manufacturing establishments, employing sixty-two workers, and the shift towards industrial growth was underway. By 1890, factory employees were essential to creating such finished lumber products as chairs, wooden handles, and even wheel hubs. The lumber was plentiful, and the labor forces were eager to work.
Cotton remained king in much of the deep south even after the war. The production methodology shifted, but the demand for cotton products remained strong. The Tupelo Cotton Mill opened in 1901 as the town’s first large industry. With the growth of the mill, expansion into clothing production was a natural progression and the Tupelo Garment Company added more jobs to the local economy. Other nearby factories handled ginning cotton, yarn, thread, or fabric production, and sewing. Every element of the cotton plant served a purpose in creating commercial goods.
Economic Growth in Tupelo
Tupelo was growing. The community invested in rural agriculture infrastructure and natural resources, which led to industrial expansion. The city discovered multiple paths to economic independence as each industry pushed its financial contributions further.
For example, dairy farms facilitated milk production, leading to canning jobs and creating a reliable employment path for farmers, factory workers, and supply chain employees. The Carnation Milk Plant, constructed in 1927, forged the intersection of railway access, dairy farming, and manufacturing job growth. Such innovative collaboration occurred over and over in the context of Tupelo’s history.
As another example, the forestry industry contributed to an economy that thrived with lumber milling and furniture-making factories. Forestry and lumber businesses were instrumental in Tupelo’s growth, especially in rebuilding the city after the devasting tornado of 1936.
The Tupelo Miracle is the local phrase that describes how a relatively indistinguishable rural area became a vibrant economic champion. Today, Tupelo is known for an energy that honors the past and embraces an innovative and forward-looking future.
Tupelo PLAY
Can’t Help Falling in Love … with Tupelo, Mississippi
The Elvis Presley Birthplace, Museum, and Chapel are international attractions. Plan to spend several hours at the Elvis Presley Center to understand how Tupelo shaped the life of young Elvis. The live tours, movies, interactive kiosks, and statue markers guide visitors through the years when Elvis lived in Tupelo before moving to Memphis.
Then go deeper with an immersion experience.
During the self-guided Elvis Driving Tour, I learned about the boy who became the King of Rock and Roll. I sat in the booth where Elvis ate burgers at Johnnie’s Drive-In. I marveled at the slippery creek bank where Elvis and his friends snuck away for fun after school, and I stood inside the hardware store where Elvis’ first guitar was sold.
But what I felt goes beyond sight. I could feel Elvis’ ambitious dream growing as I learned more about this ordinary boy who ventured to live an extraordinary life through his unprecedented expression of music. Each year in June, The Tupelo Elvis Festival, draws Elvis experts, fans, and impersonators into an intensely energetic descent on the city. Although Elvis died in 1977, his music and his legend live on through the many fan clubs that honor his contributions to entertainment.
Oren Dunn City Museum
The Oren Dunn City Museum, about four miles west of downtown, traces Tupelo’s rich history from its humble birth to recent years. Permanent exhibits in the museum building showcase the town’s early 1900s railroad system with an active model train. The museum explains Tupelo’s terrifying tornado history, the story of the Hospital on the Hill, the Chickasaw cultural history, and many other significant events. Outside the museum, Ballard Park offers playgrounds, picnic areas, and a picturesque walking trail near the scenic lake.
Live Music in Tupelo
Annual festivals in Lee County include the Gumtree Art and Wine Festival and the Tupelo Elvis Festival, but why wait for a festival event when you can enjoy live music at Romie’s Grocery, less than two miles from the downtown shopping district. Take a seat on the covered patio, which is a full-service dining area. The fireplace feature makes the space cozy, while overhead fans create a gentle breeze on those warmer evenings. In addition, the suspended covering protects guests from weather surprises. With only a few parking spaces in front of the building, be aware that ample parking is available on the gravel-covered lot that wraps around the back of the building.
Outdoor Recreation
Scenic rolling hills, deep rivers, and many lakes make this region a winning attraction for outdoor recreation. The Natchez Trace Parkway is one of several spots for outdoor fun.
The Veterans Memorial Park features a replica of the Vietnam Veterans Wall, lakeside walking trails, and other sports activities. Best of all, this park is less than two miles from downtown.
As another outdoor recreation spot, only six miles south of Tupelo, Tombigbee State Park is a nature lover’s delight. With mountain bike trails and ample space for sporting events, a main attraction is Lake Lee’s fishing spots. Families enjoy Tombigbee State Park’s picnic areas, children’s playground, disc golf course, and nature trail. Less adventurous visitors enjoy strolling downtown Tupelo’s many boutiques, shopping in Reed’s Department Store or the Gumtree Bookstore, and discovering markers along the “Off the Wall” mural trail or the Elvis guitar trail.
Tupelo STAY
Hilton Garden Inn – Tupelo
For the best downtown walking tour experience, stay overnight in the downtown district at Hotel Tupelo or the Hilton Garden Inn. Both hotels are within a block of the Fair Park downtown green space and a short walk to the downtown shopping and restaurant areas.
Holiday Inn and Suites – Tupelo
The Mill Village area south of downtown includes several Airbnb and VRBO vacation rentals which are slightly more than a half-mile from downtown. These renovated mill-worker homes are within sight of the historic cotton mill, where Gladys Presley worked as a seamstress while pregnant with Elvis and his twin brother.
In the North Gloster area northwest of the Tupelo Convention and Visitor’s Bureau welcome center, you’ll find more than a dozen hotel options, including Holiday Inn and Suites, Holiday Inn Express, Candlewood Suites, Home2 Suites by Hilton, and Courtyard by Marriott.
Tupelo EAT
Talbot House Bakery and Cafe
When in Tupelo, eat like the locals. Many menus feature fried catfish, mouth-watering burgers, and a selection of po-boy sandwiches. However, that’s where the similarities end. The Tupelo foodie scene is alive with rich culinary experiences for every discerning palate.
Start the day at Talbot House Bakery and Café. Here you’ll discover the famous icing-laden cinnamon roll. It’s an avalanche of bakery goodness. The roll was soft, easy to bite, and smothered in homemade cream cheese icing. There are many appealing options for breakfast, but you’ll remember the hearty Breakfast Sandwich Panini. It’s an egg and bacon panini with your choice of cheese and bread. Dang, it’s hot and luscious! Check the bakery hours, as this location is not open every day.
Strangebrew Coffee and Ethel Mae’s
However, there are many other foodie experiences in Tupelo, like Strangebrew Coffee inside the remodeled blue and white gas station near the corner of Main Street and Gloster. I counted more than 40 beverage selections on the menu, and the highly skilled baristas are ready to accommodate each customer’s order exactly as you want.
For a Sunday brunch experience, Ethel Mae’s is the place for cool vibes of laid-back jazzy rhythms. When I asked Demetra Sherer about the most popular dish on the menu, she steered me to the item she considers the most underrated. The secret is out. It’s the Cabbage Wedge. Despite the unassuming title, this dish reaches the utmost flavor standard. The braised and charred cabbage wedge is cooked and served in a round casserole dish. The container holds an overflow of velvety onion soubise, and the vegetable wedge is thoroughly soaked in a vinaigrette mixture of maple syrup and bacon pieces. Simply delicious.
Johnnie’s Drive-In and Dessert at Crave
For a fun Elvis-themed lunch, go to Johnnie’s Drive-In, two blocks from Elvis Presley Boulevard. While many swear by the classic dough burger, I can’t stop raving about the hamburger steak with brown onion gravy and the crisp tater tots that turned lunch into a steaming hot feast that was primo. This restaurant is popular with locals and tourists alike, and the fast, friendly service and customer attention keep ’em coming back for more.
Crave is the destination for a sugary pick-me-up dessert treat and an old-fashioned glass bottle of soda. It’s directly across the street from the Lee County Courthouse, where WELO broadcasted the weekly jamboree programs, and where Elvis made his radio debut.
For more good places to eat in Tupelo, click here.
COME SEE TUPELO MISSISSIPPI
You may arrive in Tupelo with an expectation of some thrilling Elvis music or the solitude of outdoor recreation, but Tupelo’s laid-back charm will woo you to stay a while and see all this haven offers.
I had only walked two blocks and a young couple noticed my camera. They asked if I was a new visitor to Tupelo. A conversation ensued as they welcomed me to their hometown and told me the best spots to visit along Main Street. It’s Mississippi, a destination always overflowing with southern hospitality.
