1956 Saint-Tropez — Brigitte Bardot walked barefoot onto a Saint-Tropez beach, wearing nothing but a bikini and oversized cat-eye sunglasses. At that minute, the French Riviera was born.
Within a year, the sleepy fishing village became an escape pod for the super wealthy, Hollywood stars, royalty, the famous, and the infamous. It remains so today and tops many a travel bucket list.
If Saint-Tropez is on your bucket list, but is on hold until you win the lottery, we have an alternative.
The Albanian Riviera
The Albanian Riviera is a spectacular 75-mile stretch of coast from Vlorë to Sarandë. The shoreline is a vivid medley of lush green rolling hills and alpine mountains plunging to the sea. Some end in dramatic cliffs dotted with caves sheltering deep azure pools. Others connect to broad sand or pebble beaches.
The hilly areas close to the shore are often terraced. Small neighborhoods of houses with red roofs occupy the terraces. The terraces are also home to agriculture. Olives, grapes, fruit, and nuts thrive in the Mediterranean climate and have flourished in the region for decades. You’ll see local produce in street markets, roadside stands, and grocery stores. Buy some, it is fabulous and very inexpensive.
Let’s Talk About Vlorë
We suggest Vlorë as your riviera christening in Albania. Vlorë (also known as Vlora) is the 3rd largest city in Albania. It’s the gateway to the Albanian Riviera. Located where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet, it is known for its splendid coastline, waterfront promenades, and its historical importance as the birthplace of Albanian independence.
Take a Walk
Wide promenades along the shore are shared by families on passeggiata, walkers, runners, cyclists, and non-motorized transport of all kinds. On one side, the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet. Sunbathers and swimmers soak up the Mediterranean rays and immerse themselves in the clear turquoise water.
A Refuge From the Sun
Rows of precisely positioned lounges and umbrellas march along the beach. Each vendor’s section has its own colors and personality. Some are for resort and hotel guests only, others are available to the public for a small fee that covers the whole day. You’ll also see beach bars selling libations of all types.
Go Into the Wild
Not all beaches are filled with umbrellas and sun lounges. There are 15—20 wild beaches along the 75-mile Albanian Riviera. Wild beaches are often secret, hidden below cliffs and requiring a bit of hiking to reach. Some are only accessible by boat.
Across From the Beach
On the other side of the promenade are hotels, resorts, shops, galleries, restaurants, and bars. You’ll find the prices surprisingly low once you convert them from Albanian LEK (ALL) to US dollars (USD). That first glance at a glass of house wine on the menu for 330 LEK is heartstopping, but 330 LEK is $4.
By the way, that’s 4 bucks for a glass of wine in the shade at an upscale seafront café on the Albanian Riviera, watching the palms sway and the world passing by. Believe us, it’s a bargain.
Let’s Eat
Eateries are serving all types of food, but seafood is King in the region. It is hook-to-mouth fresh, tasty, and very budget-friendly. You’ll find everything from small food carts to 5★ restaurants featuring seafood most of the year.
Traditional Albanian cuisine is a blend of Mediterranean freshness and Balkan heartiness. Traditional dishes have centuries of history, influenced by Italy, Greece, and Türkiye. The Albanian daily diet revolves around olive oil, high-quality fish and meats, especially lamb. Most dishes include the abundant seasonal vegetables, fruit, and dairy products such as yogurt, ricotta, and feta.
Three Restaurants/Three Areas/Three Vibes
Restaurant Ideal—Located on the Lungomare in Vlorë, you’ll have a beautiful seafront view while enjoying Ideal’s out-of-this-world seafood.
We had black mussels and a mixed seafood grill. It was an outstanding meal of Neptune’s treasures. This family-owned and operated eatery serves only the freshest, seasonal fish and shellfish. Excellent service, we loved it! Simear, our server and member of the family, gave us the most gracious welcome we could have asked for. He explained the menu and wine and took great care of us.
Sorry, no website, but click the restaurant name above to see Ideal’s location on Google Maps. There, you can see photos of the food and location.
Casa Gaia—In the morning, wander through the streets of Old Town and follow your instincts, ducking into historic sites, little galleries, and shops to find local crafts, art, food products, etc.
When you are ready for lunch, head to Casa Gaia, a Mediterranean/Albanian eatery that blends tradition with innovation. The service and atmosphere are genuine. There is indoor and outdoor seating, a full bar, and laid-back music.
Mary ordered the housemade sausage with a salad. Kevin tried the Caesar salad and crab cakes. Everything was excellent—fresh ingredients, beautiful presentation, and lovely service. By the way, the Cesar was enormous.
Eagle’s—Located a couple of blocks off Lungomare, on one of those side streets you always hear have the best food and prices. Well, Eagle’s is one of those. Frequented by locals, this is the place for traditional Albanian cuisine.
Eagles is beautiful inside, but also has outdoor seating. The family-friendly place offers a menu of several traditional Albanian dishes. Kevin had Tave Dheu, a veal casserole in a clay pot. Mary tried Qofte, meatballs with a wonderful tomato sauce. The food was memorable, and the service was very good, even though the place was packed.
Let’s Have a Drink
No visit to the beach would be complete without an umbrella drink, but you’ll easily find any beverage you’d like. Whether it’s a frosty margarita, a bright orange Aperol Spritz, ice-cold beer, or a simple glass of house wine, you will have no problem finding a drink.
►Don’t pass up a refreshing fresh-squeezed juice. Try the mango-orange, it’s addictive. It’s usually around $3 per serving.
PRO TIP: Fruit juice is an excellent way to restore after a day in the sun.
►Wine is made in Albania, but you are more likely to see Italian wine on a menu. An Albania wine we tried and liked is Çobo from Baret, Albania. We plan to take a bus trip to the winery on our next visit to Vlorë. Family-run for decades, they offer winery tours you can book online.
A glass of house wine is $2.50—5.50 at a bar, café, or club in Vlorë’s most upscale beach area, Lungomare. In Saint-Tropez, a glass of house wine will cost $11—22 at a standard café or bar. In a more upscale area, a glass of house wine will run you $25—30.
►Beer is very popular, with local, regional, and imported options on the menu. Local beers may be as little as $1 a pint. We tried a local beer called Tirana. The light body and tiny bubbles reminded us of Tsingtao, a Chinese beer we love.
Where to Stay in Albania
For your first time in the Albanian Riviera, we recommend Vlorë. Vlorë is at the north end of the 75-mile-long Albanian Riviera.
To get the authentic Riviera experience, stay on the Longomare, a pedestrian promenade a little over three miles long. Go for it, get a sea view hotel, resort, or vacation rental with a balcony. They are plentiful and available for all styles and budgets.
The time of year you go is the biggest factor in price. A 4-star room for two that is $125 in the high season might be $32 in November. Shop around and read the reviews before booking. Also, consider booking something refundable in case you need to make changes.
We aren’t recommending a hotel in Vlorë because we stayed in a vacation rental. Sadly, not one we would recommend. Vacation rentals are also a good choice, from penthouses to granny suites. Many offer luxurious accommodations, sea views, balconies, and gourmet kitchens. Others are tucked away in a neighborhood where you’ll rub elbows with the locals.
Where to Play
There is plenty to do in Vlorë besides the beach and Lungomare.
►Museums—National Museum of Independence or Ethnographic Museum (there are several other museums).
►Old Town—Traditional cuisine and shopping for local crafts.
►Muradie Mosque—Built in 1537, it is still in use as a place of worship today.
►Independence Monument—Dedicated to the Albanian Declaration of Independence.
►Paragliding—AeroClub Albania
►Boat Tours – Wine Tasting – Food tours – Walking tours – Day trips via bus.
Where is Albania?
In Southeastern Europe, Albania is located on the western edge of the Balkan Peninsula. Part of the Mediterranean, Albania sits along the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, just east of Italy’s heel. Albania shares land borders with Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Greece. The country is gorgeous, with mountains known as the Albanian Alps and beaches known as the Albanian Riviera.
Getting There
Fly—The international airport in Tiranë is about 2.5 hours from Vlorë. You can rent a car, take an airport shuttle, or hire a private car.
By Water—You can come to Vlorë by ferry from Birindi, Italy, or Corfu, Greece. Birindi is direct. From Corfu, you take a ferry to Sarandë, then a bus from Sarandë to Vlorë.
Drive—Come into Albania overland by car from anywhere in Europe.
Train—Sorry, train service is under rehabilitation. There are no reliable rail lines in operation.
Getting Around
Vlorë is a walk and cycle town. City buses connect you to major areas for a fare of 40 LEK or 48 cents. There are places to rent bikes and cars along the Lungomare and in other parts of the city.
Why The Albanian Riviera?
The Albanian Riviera offers an authentic riviera experience, blending natural beauty with a rich maritime culture. The mesmerizing coastline, with budget-friendly options, offers fresh seafood at every turn, welcoming locals, and sunsets you usually only see on postcards.
The sun, sand, and sea are the same as in Saint-Tropez, but we just bet you’ll feel more at home in Vlorë, the crown of the Albanian Riviera.
