Story and photos by Gwyn Goodrow
As I stepped onto the Royal Mile’s cobbled streets in Edinburgh, Scotland, the first thing that struck me was the palpable sense of timelessness. Edinburgh is a city shrouded in history. The landscape’s rugged beauty, crowned by the imposing Edinburgh Castle, was a majestic sight that pulled at my soul.
The Royal Mile unfolded like a well-worn scroll. Each step revealed a fascinating layered narrative. This one-mile stretch (1.13 miles, to be precise) connects Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It endures as a living testament to Edinburgh’s resilience.
I sensed the profound depth of centuries resonating through narrow alleyways and tucked-away patios. Stone facades, weathered by time, whispered tales of monarchs, commoners, poets, and philosophers. In this captivating open-air museum, each cobblestone has played a role in a historical plot. Every pebble is a character in the scene.
A Brief Introduction to Edinburgh
Edinburgh’s narrative exists in a backdrop laced with triumph and turbulence. The Royal Mile bears many scars. The Battle of Flodden (1513), the National Covenant (1638), and the Enlightenment era that birthed great thinkers, are only a few.
Mary, Queen of Scots, traversed this path from 1561 to 1568 when she lived in Edinburgh. Bonnie Prince Charlie established court at the Palace of Holyroodhouse during the Jacobite uprising in 1745. Beyond the royalty, heart-wrenching tales about The Great Fire of Edinburgh (1824) and the many recurrent plague infections are palpable throughout the Old Town. However, as I absorbed these stories, I was acutely aware of Edinburgh’s remarkable survival. Despite its hardships, the city has emerged with pride and defiance, a living documentary on the strength of the human spirit.
Explore: A Journey Through Time
My day began at this historic fortress, which dominates the city’s skyline. With an extensive library of audio recordings, I toured the many buildings and exhibits, including the National War Museum, the Honours of Scotland in the Crown Room, and swords in The Great Hall. Beyond the curated displays, I strolled the castle grounds at a leisurely pace, witnessed the traditional firing of the One O’clock Gun, and savored the impressive panoramic views of the city and the Firth of Forth.
Gladstone’s Land
History buffs will revel in the atmospheric charm at Gladstone’s Land, a meticulously restored 17th-century tenement building that examines 400 years in the lives of Edinburgh’s elite.
The turnpike stairwell was a fascinating glimpse into the ingenuity of the past. In the tightly packed vertical buildings of that era, space was at a premium, and these stairwells exemplified efficient design. The climb is both physically engaging and historically immersive, as we literally followed in the footsteps of prior residents and merchants.
Like me, several visitors were concerned about the physical accessibility for the tour. There is no elevator and the uneven steps required careful navigation. As we ascended, these steps, each fitting snugly into the next, coiled upwards in a tight spiral.
I soon discovered an intriguing security feature. The stone steps have inconsistent heights, an effective anti-burglar measure in the centuries before modern security cameras and alarm features. The tiny, uneven steps in the stairwell add an extra layer of authenticity to the immersive experience that unravels secrets in Edinburgh’s past.
The Gladstone’s Land tour begins on the upper level of the building. As the docent presented each level, the group exited downstairs. After the tour, enjoy a light lunch or handmade ice cream at the merchant shop on the first level. Ice cream-lovers and those waiting for the next tour mingled in the dining area at the rear of the building.
The Writer’s Museum in Edinburgh, Scotland
Near Gladstone’s Land on the Royal Mile, I slipped through the narrow alleyway marked “Lady Stair’s Close” and found the Makars’ Court and The Writer’s Museum. The Writer’s Museum in Edinburgh celebrates the contributions of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson, three iconic figures who significantly influenced and promoted the city’s character. This museum showcases a unique collection dedicated to Scottish literature, featuring manuscripts, books, portraits, and personal items of these authors, along with their insightful philosophical commentaries.
Explore other Closes in Old Town
The secrets beneath Old Town are protected in the alleyways marked as a “close,” similar to street names. A “close” refers to a narrow and often winding pedestrian passageway or alley that connected the buildings on either side of the Royal Mile. These paths are a distinctive feature of Edinburgh’s medieval urban layout. Towering tenement buildings add to the mysticism of these dark and tight passageways.
Closes are named after a notable resident, a nearby landmark, or an associated historical event. Walking through a close is like entering a time capsule of original cobblestone paving and ancient multi-level architectural features. These passageways were vital in daily life. They were (and still are) access routes to homes, businesses, and hidden courtyards. While some closes remain bustling with shops and home dwellings, others lead to tucked-away squares, historic sites, or architectural glimpses into the city’s past.
The Real Mary King’s Close
The Real Mary King’s Close tourist attraction was an intriguing excursion into an underground history. Costumed tour guides led us through a network of chambers while explaining the city’s past. Some tour stops explained the social hardships endured by those who lived underground, while other chamber rooms addressed the economic evolution of merchant shops at the street level.
The Real Mary King’s Close is a popular destination to uncover mysteries beneath Edinburgh’s surface or as an immersive and interactive history experience for the entire family.
St. Giles’ Cathedral
St. Giles’ Cathedral, founded in the 1140s, is a spiritual anchor on the Royal Mile. It’s about halfway along the path between the mile’s endpoints and entices tourists with elaborate architecture and intricate stained-glass windows. The pedestrian boulevard near the cathedral has performers who entertain tourists with bagpipes, magic tricks, juggling, and comedy routines.
The People’s Story Museum
For a journey into Edinburgh’s collective history, The People’s Story Museum provided a captivating narrative about social and cultural evolution. These exhibits and artifacts gave us many insights into the lives of the city’s residents across different eras and lifestyle statuses. It is a compelling exhibition center that reveals thought-provoking human stories.
The John Knox House
The John Knox House reflects the architectural style prevalent during its construction, with thick stone walls and crow-stepped gables. Step through its doorways to enter the spaces where Knox, a fiery preacher and influential theologian, lived and worked during the mid-16th century as a central figure in the Scottish Reformation.
As a Protestant leader, Knox’s ideas and influence challenged the authority of the Catholic Church in Scotland. Although this museum is small, each room and every nook hold significant information to build knowledge about a deeply troubled time in Edinburgh’s history.
The Palace of Holyroodhouse
At the end of the Royal Mile, I toured the Palace of Holyroodhouse. This palace is the official residence when His Majesty King Charles III is in Scotland. A tour with individual audio recordings guides visitors through the palace to the opulent State Apartments. You’ll also see Mary, Queen of Scots’ chambers, where she lived between 1561 and 1567. Learn about the Order of the Thistle in the Great Gallery and see the Abby Ruins and Gardens at the tour’s conclusion.
This tour is well worth the time, but it’s important to check the visitor schedule. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday, as well as December 25th -26th, and during any Royal visits.
What Lies Beyond the Royal Mile?
As the Royal Mile ends, the cityscape unfolds into the lush landscapes of Holyrood Park, a sanctuary for both hikers and nature lovers. My exploration of Edinburgh’s iconic Royal Mile revealed its role in Scotland’s rich history and vibrant culture. From the majestic Edinburgh Castle to the stately Palace of Holyroodhouse, each step along this historic street has exposed interesting stories, architectural wonders, and deep insights into Scottish heritage.
The Royal Mile, with its significant landmarks, and cultural gems, was an immersive experience. It’s a path where history buffs, literary aficionados, and inquisitive travelers alike can witness a blend of past and present, to establish a memorable adventure.
So, lace up your walking shoes, bring your camera, and let the essence of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile enchant you.
More Information If You Go
Edinburgh Castle – https://www.edinburghcastle.scot/
Gladstone’s Land – https://www.nts.org.uk/visit/places/gladstones-land
The Writer’s Museum and Makar’s Court at Lady Stairs’ Close – https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/the-writers-museum-and-makars-court-p246801
The Real Mary King’s Close – https://www.realmarykingsclose.com/
St. Giles’ Cathedral – https://www.stgilescathedral.org.uk/visitor-information
The People’s Story Museum – https://www.visitscotland.com/info/see-do/the-peoples-story-p254941
The John Knox House – https://www.scottishstorytellingcentre.com/john-knox-house/
The Palace of Holyroodhouse – https://www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse
