Story and photos by Gwyn Goodrow
Welcome to the heart of Scotland, where secrets murmer through ancient stone walls and the air teems with tales of kings and queens, wars and scandals. Edinburgh, a city steeped in grandeur and grit, beckons travelers to explore its cobbled streets and towering medieval structures. At the heart of it all, the Royal Mile persists as a testament to the city’s rich history.
In this mesmerizing adventure, stories come alive as I explore the landmarks. However, the unscripted moments – the unexpected conversations, the hidden gardens, and panoramic views that suddenly appear – leave a poignant mark on my journey through Scotland’s capital.
Where is Scotland?
Scotland is located in the northernmost part of the United Kingdom. Its strategic location in the British Isles makes it a significant player in the Europe’s chronicles. From the Highlands’ wild and untamed beauty to the Lowlands’ genteel charm, Scotland has always been more than just a place. It’s a tapestry of human culture and folklore, renowned for its historic cities and innovations.
Alexander Graham Bell’s invention of the first practical telephone in 1876 revolutionized communication. Likewise, Dr. Alexander Fleming made a groundbreaking discovery in 1928 when he found penicillin to be an effective antibiotic. Additionally, James Watt’s steam engine in 1769 was another significant contribution to Scotland’s scientific legacy.
These discoveries and the many others from Edinburgh impacted the world far beyond the city borders.
Where is Edinburgh?
Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, is on the Firth of Forth’s southern shore. It’s approximately 400 miles north of London and easily accessible via various transportation modes, including flights, cruise ships, trains, and roads. Comfortable in the embrace of Scotland’s awe-inspiring landscapes, Edinburgh sits majestically atop a striking volcanic hill range. Look to the south, and the Pentland Hills reveal a panoramic masterpiece of nature. These hills, with gentle slopes, are harmonious transitions from the cityscape to sprawling countrysides.
In the east, Arthur’s Seat watches over the city as a sage philosopher clad in a botanical patchwork of heather, thistle, and grasses. It paints a poetic portrait against the canvas of the Scottish sky. For energetic hikers who make the steep trek, the summit views are impressive. Today’s city is divided into two distinct parts. The Old Town’s spires and rooftops, with their medieval charm, reveal a labyrinthine pattern that was established more than 500 years ago. Here, you’ll find Edinburgh Castle and the famed Royal Mile.
The Georgian New Town is characterized by neoclassical architecture and beautifully manicured gardens. This fusion of history and modernity is part of what makes Edinburgh so endearing to travelers from around the globe.
Climate: Seasons in the Scottish Capital
Edinburgh’s climate is as diverse as its landscape.
Edinburgh experiences a temperate maritime climate with mild temperatures and moderate precipitation. Summers, from June to August, are relatively cool, with daytime temperatures ranging up to 68 degrees Fahrenheit. A lightweight, hooded jacket will be suitable for the breezy winds and to protect you during the sudden light rains in the summer months.
Winters span from December to February, and daytime temperatures typically range from 34 to 46 degrees Fahrenheit, requiring extra clothing layers, a warmer jacket, or full-length coat.
Terrain: From Cobblestones to Peaks
Edinburgh’s topography is a captivating blend of urban and natural elements. The terrain has a mosaic of cobblestone alleys and streets that weave through a cityscape. Man-made nature trails highlight the beauty of this unique landscape. The formidable Arthur’s Seat at 823 feet above sea level and the majestic Edinburgh Castle, both with ties to extinct volcano formations, dominate the skyline.
The flourishing city, however, combines urban energy with the tranquility of historical perspectives. The contrast between the Old Town’s cobblestone streets and the leafy boulevards in New Town mirrors the city’s ability to blend the old with the new as centuries unfold.
Getting Around in Edinburgh, Scotland
Edinburgh offers many efficient transportation options. Touch down at Edinburgh Airport (EDI), just 8 miles west of the city center, and the curbside taxi stand staff schedule instant transportation to your destination. The taxi service kiosk was immediately visible from the airport terminal exit. My husband and I were impressed with the helpful luggage service, clean taxi, and efficient routing to our hotel in the city center.
Some tourists prefer pre-arranged rides with Uber or Viator. Those drivers wait in a nearby lot, ready to assist with luggage and a comfortable ride. Once in the city footprint, Edinburgh’s compact size unfolded as a pedestrian’s dream. Iconic landmarks, such as the Royal Mile, are accessible on foot for leisure explorations.
For longer jaunts, the Lothian Buses connect the city and its outskirts with a user-friendly ticket system that facilitates effortless movement. An unlimited day pass provided excellent value for multiple stops throughout the day.
For me, the open-top red Edinburgh CitySightseeing buses were convenient and timely. These vehicles do not travel on the pedestrian-only sections of the Royal Mile but stop at nearby museums and attractions. I appreciated having a city audio tour to get my bearings and then used the multi-day bus ticket for transportation to daily activities.
Whether you choose trains, buses, or taxi services, transportation in Edinburgh is easy to navigate. Just remember to carry an umbrella to be prepared for the unpredictable weather changes.
In this geographic backdrop, Edinburgh’s most iconic street—the Royal Mile—unfurls its majestic tales.
The Royal Mile: Promenade of Fame and Infamy
From the majestic Edinburgh Castle perched on one end to the graceful Palace of Holyroodhouse on the other, the Royal Mile encapsulates centuries of Scottish life. This ancient street has been the soul of Scotland’s vibrant culture for over 500 years.
The iconic Edinburgh Castle, perched atop the dormant Castle Rock volcano, is a sight to behold, with its towering spires and centuries-old stone walls. After the castle tour, we exited through Portcullis Gate’s pointy overhead spikes and moved onto the Edinburgh Castle Esplanade.
The esplanade is a spacious, cobbled courtyard at Edinburgh Castle’s main entrance. This 1.2-acre space hosts the annual Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo and other ceremonial events. At the edge of the esplanade, The Royal Mile lies ahead, stretching from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
The 1.13-mile walk from Edinburgh Castle to Holyroodhouse Palace is a downhill stroll through Scottish history. The Scots Mile, initially established as Scotland’s traditional measurement, was legally abolished on three occasions. First, in 1685 by a Scottish Parliament act, then in 1707 through the Treaty of Union with England, and finally, in 1824 by the Weights and Measures Act. It’s interesting that the Scots mile was obsolete by the time of its ultimate abolition when the English mile was enforced.
Tip: Start your Royal Mile walk at the castle entrance, even if you don’t tour the castle, for a downhill stroll.
Points of Interest: Things to Do Along the Royal Mile
The Royal Mile begins at the Edinburgh Castle fortress and the pinnacle of Castle Rock. Tour the castle grounds to view the regal Honours of Scotland in the Crown Room and witness the firing of the famed One O’clock Gun.
Near the castle entrance, you can spot the spires of St. Giles’ Cathedral, just a short walk away. As you move towards the cathedral, inspect the nearby architecture, and observe the intricate network of “closes.” These narrow passageways were vital arteries in Edinburgh’s past, leading to homes, businesses, and hidden courtyards. The Real Mary King’s Close tourist attraction delivers an immersive underground journey and thought-provoking perspectives on more than 400 years of the city’s past.
Shops along the Royal Mile sell products ranging from traditional kilts and tartans to clan souvenirs and handmade crafts.
For literary enthusiasts, go to The Writers’ Museum. Located in Lady Stair’s House (at Lady Stair’s Close), this museum honors three of Scotland’s most famous writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.
Halfway along the Royal Mile, the St. Giles’ Cathedral, founded in the 1140s, anchors the city with elaborate architecture, stained-glass windows, and spiritual comfort.
Continue a historical odyssey at The People’s Museum to learn about Edinburgh’s social and cultural evolution through captivating exhibits and artifacts. In this museum I learned about life in Edinburgh through the eyes of a bookbinder, a prisoner, and ladies in a social tearoom.
Next, I visited the John Knox House, a well-preserved medieval building and museum where the influential leader of the Scottish Reformation lived and worked.
The Netherbow Port fortification wall once marked the end of the known world for those who could not afford the fees for passage beyond the walled city gates. The Netherbow Bell signaled nightly curfews for residents and travelers, announced public hangings, and warned the community about fires or other dangers. The restored bell is mounted in the bell tower above the John Knox House building. It’s not visible when standing adjacent to the museum but move away by a half-block in any direction and you’ll have an easy sightline to this 17th century bell.
At the Royal Mile’s end awaits the regal Palace of Holyroodhouse, the official residence of King Charles III when he is in Scotland. The guided audio tour leads through the opulent State Apartments, the Mary, Queen of Scots’ chambers, and the Great Gallery adorned with portraits. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, December 25th-26th, and during Royal visits.
Whether you explore inside the closes, marvel at historic landmarks, or fixate on political secrets, the Royal Mile promises an exciting experience.
Stay: A Regal Rest in Edinburgh’s Finest Accommodations Near the Royal Mile
Indulge in the distinctive charm and luxury of Edinburgh’s premier accommodations after a day on the historic Royal Mile.
The Hilton Edinburgh Carlton Hotel stands as a beacon of modern grandeur and historical style less than a block from the Royal Mile. Constructed in 1899, this architectural masterpiece showcases its Renaissance-Revival design.
The onsite Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill serves delectable evening meals and offers 24-hour room service for hotel guests. With contemporary elegance, impeccable service, and many amenities, this hotel delivers a refined, comfortable stay.
Just a short stroll away (.2 miles) lies The Balmoral, formerly known as the British Royal Hotel. This five-star retreat sits at the intersection of Princes Street and the North Bridge. With timeless architecture, onsite spa rooms, and exquisite guest rooms, it’s a well-refined oasis.
The strategic location allows easy exploration of outdoor attractions such as the Royal Mile, Prince’s Street Gardens, or Calton Hill. This hotel, adjacent to Waverly Station, is ideal for train passengers.
On Princes Street, also near Waverly Station, Hotel Indigo provides a contemporary and stylish sanctuary. This boutique hotel pays tribute to Edinburgh’s legacy as a hangout for thinkers, poets, and authors. Guest rooms and common areas reflect the city’s literary heritage. Some guest rooms have captivating views that include the Old Town’s skyline.
In the heart of the historic Old Town, The Inn on the Mile exudes a unique charm. Directly on the Royal Mile, a meticulously renovated 19th-century bank building houses this quaint inn, with only nine guest bedrooms. This accommodation blends period features and contemporary comforts, plus daily live entertainment. The restaurant and pub provide locally sourced foods for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Outdoor dining is perfect for people-watching along the Royal Mile.
Whether you’re drawn to timeless elegance or sleek sophistication, Edinburgh’s accommodations offer unparalleled luxury and comfort. No matter where you choose to rest your head at night, you’ll be surrounded by Edinburgh’s culture and hospitality.
Eat: A Feast for the Senses
Foodies find plenty of indulgences along the Royal Mile. As we embarked on a culinary journey through Edinburgh’s Old Town, each restaurant revealed a unique dining experience.
At The Witchery by the Castle, gothic charm and Middle Age history converge with sumptuous Scottish fare like haggis. This restaurant is housed in a 16th-century building only steps from the entry to Edinburgh Castle.
The Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill at Hilton Edinburgh Carlton served up a cosmopolitan ambiance and a memorable dining experience. Wedgwood the Restaurant provides a curated tasting menu with vegetarian-friendly options in a friendly atmosphere.
Angels with Bagpipes and The Piper’s Rest Public House offered memorable dining experiences and are located within a block of St. Giles Cathedral.
The End of the World Restaurant, at the site of the ancient Flodden Wall, is the place to experience authentic Scottish cuisine in a cozy, rustic, old-world atmosphere.
At Cafe Edinburgh, we indulged in a hearty breakfast. The full Scottish breakfast includes haggis, black pudding, bacon, lorne sausage, beans, egg, hash brown, potato scone, mushrooms, and sourdough toast to start the day. Wrap up any meal with a stop at their pastry counter for sweet treats.
Later, we headed to picturesque Cockburn Street to visit The Arcade Haggis and Whiskey House. We were searching for authentic haggis and discovered plates filled with modern Scottish dishes in a quirky setting. Finally, for burger enthusiasts, Bread Meats Bread at the North Bridge near Waverly Station presents more than 15 burger options.
Whether you’re looking for a bistro, cafe, or full dining service, these culinary adventures complement your historic Old Town explorations.
Come Visit Edinburg’s Royal Mile in Enchanting Scotland
Along Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, you’ll discover a city that bears its history with pride.
Wander through time, from the imposing Edinburgh Castle to the regal halls of Holyroodhouse Palace. You’ll be enchanted as the city unfolds like a living, breathing novel—a tale that invites you to join its ongoing story.
