Beyond the Beach: Culture and History in San Diego
Story and photos by June Russell-Chamberlin unless otherwise indicated
Who doesn’t love the chance to escape with a fun-filled week exploring Southern California’s golden beaches, local culture, history, and (of course) margaritas?
Located just north of the Mexican border, San Diego is a warm-weather playground filled with sunny beaches, palm trees, and surfing. But there’s much more to this city by the bay. World-class attractions such as the San Diego Zoo and SeaWorld, museums, and gardens galore are just a few reasons to visit. Add a rich and colorful history, lively nightlife, and fresh local seafood and you may not want to come home.
History of San Diego
The native Kumeyaay people had lived in the area for thousands of years before Spanish explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo sailed into the bay with his flagship, the San Salvador, in 1542. He didn’t stay long, and 200 years passed before the Spanish established the first European settlements in California with a fort (now the site of Presidio Park) and village, preserved as Old Town San Diego State Historic Park.
Growth was slow until the 1860s, when Alonzo Horton bought 900 acres of what is today downtown San Diego. New Town, as it came to be known, was closer to the waterfront and soon thrived with new residents and businesses. By the late 1880s, the town had become known as a seaside vacation destination.
Getting There and Getting Around
Most visitors arrive in San Diego by car or airplane. The airport is centrally located on the harbor and close to everything. As for getting around, a car makes things easy. Uber operates in San Diego, but I found a rental car more affordable for extensive exploring. The hop-on-hop-off Old Town Trolley tour is an easy way to avoid traffic and parking headaches if you’re sightseeing. The city’s public transit system, San Diego Metropolitan Transit System, serves the area, as does the San Diego Trolley.
Things To Do in San Diego
Haunted San Diego Ghost Tour
With more than 250 years of European settlement, it’s not surprising that San Diego has its fair share — or more — of ghosts. Haunted San Diego Ghost Tours offers three options, all with a mix of history, true crime, and ghostly tales. The 60-minute Old Town Walking Tour is the most kid-friendly and includes exclusive Ghost Tour access to a hidden gem, the haunted Heritage Park. The two-hour Premier Bus Tour visits Old Town too, plus the Gaslamp Quarter, and additional sites around San Diego. This tour frequently gets permission to go inside haunted buildings.
The 2-hour Gaslamp Walking Tour is a fast-paced (wear good walking shoes) tour of nearly 30 sites in the once infamous district known in the late 1800s and early 1900s as the Stingaree. Gambling dens, brothels, saloons, sailors, and even Wyatt Earp contributed to a colorful history and more than a few ghost tales. This lively tour often gets permission to enter the haunted Horton Grand Hotel and Davis-Horton House (where two members of our tour group swore they felt ghosts tug at their shirt hems in the kitchen).
World Famous San Diego Zoo
Lions, tigers, and polar bears are just a few of the 12,000 creatures at the world-class San Diego Zoo. Plan to spend at least a day, maybe more, at the zoo to see it all. The 100-acre park is crisscrossed with paths leading to sections representing other parts of the world, from Asia to the Arctic. Skyfari, the zoo’s aerial tram, and the Kangaroo Bus shuttle visitors around the park so you don’t have to walk everywhere (mobility scooters and wheelchairs are also available for rent). You’ll also want to wear good walking shoes and sun protection. Your best strategy? Get there early, take the free bus tour for an overview, and use the map or the zoo app (Android and Apple ios) to plan your day.
Maritime Museum of San Diego
The only thing on dry land at the Maritime Museum of San Diego is the admission booth — the entire museum is afloat. The historic steam ferry Berkeley is the centerpiece of the museum. Its decks are filled with exhibits on navigation, steam, sail, the local naval presence, fishing, cartography, maritime history, and much more. The exhibits provide context for the museum’s nine ships — six originals and three replicas — floating nearby. The ships are open for exploration and filled with exhibits about how the ships were used and what life was like onboard. But the best way to experience maritime history is to get on the water, either with sailing adventures on the tall ship Californian or the San Salvador, or by cruising the bay on the historic Pilot boat or Swift boat.
More Things to Do in San Diego
Admire the architecture and gardens of Balboa Park, where you’ll also find 17 museums on everything from art to miniature trains.
Go birdwatching at the San Diego Botanic Garden, host to plants from around the world.
Learn about naval history on the aircraft carrier USS Midway, where you can roam from the flight deck to the captain’s quarters.
Find tranquility and beauty at the Japanese Friendship Garden in Balboa Park.
Spend a day on the rides and see the animals from orcas to otters at SeaWorld.
Grab a meal or the perfect souvenir in historic Old Town, now a mix of shops, restaurants, and museum buildings.
Enjoy panoramic views of San Diego and a bit of history at the Cabrillo National Monument and Old Point Loma Lighthouse.
Where to Stay in San Diego
Hotel Del Coronado
Opened in 1888 as a luxury seaside resort, the classic Victorian-era Hotel Del Coronado still offers some of the classiest accommodations in town. Known for its Sunday brunch and as the setting for Marilyn Monroe’s Some Like It Hot, the hotel is just seven miles from downtown San Diego. The number of rooms and activities has expanded since the hotel first opened, and today guests can enjoy the spa, pool, shops, restaurants, and a bevy of beach activities.
Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa
The Polynesian-themed Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa surrounds guests with lush vegetation, tiki torches, palm trees, and plenty of opportunities to play in the water, whether at the pool or the beach. Located between Mission Bay and the Pacific Ocean, the Catamaran’s activities include paddleboarding, kayaking, sailing, and bicycling.
Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club & Bungalows
Retro charm, a laid-back atmosphere, and a pool designed by former Tarzan (and five-time Olympic gold medal winner) Johnny Weissmuller set the stage for a relaxing stay at the Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club & Bungalows. The boutique hotel opened in 1946 and became a favorite of celebrities such as Bob Hope and Ava Gardner. Today the 313 rooms, suites, and bungalows in the renovated hotel blend modern amenities with retro-chic style.
Where to Eat in San Diego
Casa Guadalajara
Located on the edge of Old Town San Diego, Casa Guadalajara dishes up fresh, flavorful Mexican food, such as spicy-sweet mango chipotle chicken. The restaurant is also known for its seafood, like its tequila lime shrimp. Guests can choose to eat on the patio (heated in winter) by the fountain or amid the colorful folk art indoors.
Blue Water Seafood
At Blue Water Seafood, all they do is fish, freshly caught by local fishermen. Choose from among 13 varieties of seafood ranging from shrimp to mahi-mahi or salmon. Then decide if you want it in a sandwich, on a salad, in a taco, or plated with rice and a side salad. Eight marinades enhance the flavor. At the Ocean Beach location, the picnic tables on the deck outside offer a great view of the sunset over the ocean
Oceana Coastal Kitchen
The chef-driven menu at Oceana Coastal Kitchen creates classic dishes with California produce and flavors. As the signature restaurant at the Catamaran Resort Hotel, Oceana’s guests can eat indoors or on the covered patio with outstanding views of Mission Bay.
Final Thoughts
Stroll the gardens. Engage your curiosity at the museums. Imagine how life used to be in Old Town or listen to ghost tales about San Diego’s wild past. Whatever adventures you choose, San Diego is a sunny destination brimming with extraordinary places to play, stay and eat.
Although some experiences were generously hosted, all opinions are my own.