Story and photos by Julie Diebolt Price (unless otherwise indicated)
Anderson Valley, nestled between Hwy 101 and the Mendocino Coast, is home to artists, winemakers, chefs, and independent thinkers. This region in Northern California keeps calling me back. Otherwise known as Mendoland, the following is what I experienced on my fall trip this year. See what I wrote about the beautiful Mendocino coastal area last year.
While I was hosted at some of these destinations, all opinions are my own.
Where is Mendocino County?
A few hours north of San Francisco, the closest airport is Santa Rosa. Little River Airport, a small municipal airport about five miles away, also serves the Mendocino area.
You’ll be able to enjoy the magnificent Northern California coast if you drive from San Francisco north on Highway 1 or south from Leggett.
Pro Tip:
Traffic can be slow along Highway 1. Bring your patience or go inland for a faster but less scenic route.
There are two ways to reach Anderson Valley on Highway 128–from the coast or Highway 101. Both routes include many curving roads. I recommend that you take them during the daylight hours.
Driving through the redwood forest along Highway 128 is awe-inspiring on the way to the Mendocino Coast from Anderson Valley. There are few places to park along the road, so when you see one, take advantage of it. Traffic is sparse and goes slowly so you shouldn’t have a problem.
PLAY
Lula Cellars, Philo
A trip through Anderson Valley wouldn’t be complete without at least one winery tour. We enjoyed an exceptional experience at Lula Cellars, a boutique winery in the “Deep End” of the Anderson Valley. Specializing in Pinot Noirs, Lula Cellars produces about 4,000 cases annually.
Winemaker, Matt Parish, says, “…Anderson Valley is one of the few places in the world where I feel [the Pinot Noir] truly expresses itself”.
On the day we were there, Lula Cellars rolled out the red carpet for their guests with all hands on deck, including the dog. The dog (name unknown) greeted all guests and ushered them into the tasting room, where Ken Avery, the Proprietor, took over. Joni, Ken’s wife, made the snacks for the day’s event–The 1st Annual Harvest Tidrick Celebration.
Our wine tasting, served by Dan Reed, Pushy Salesman, regaled us with tales of the region. We were supposed to learn Boontling, the local language created around the turn of the century. Less than 100 living Americans know how to speak it.
“The frattey (wine) of Anderson Valley is bahler (exceptional). Welcome to the Harvest Tidrick weekend (harvest celebration) and fill a horn (drinking vessel), gorm some amazing chiggle (eat some food) and yell bahl hornin’ (cheers) to harvest 2022!”
We did enjoy the frattey and chiggle!
After our wine tasting, Chris Lanier, the General Manager, took us on a four-wheeler ride through the vineyards and shared his extensive knowledge of vines and grapes. Each section was labeled with the planting year and the variety. It was exhilarating looking over the hills and seeing the leaves turning golden yellow in the bright fall sun.
Rebecca Johnson Art, Navarro
I always stop at Rebecca Johnson’s Art Studio when I’m in Anderson Valley. I enjoy following her career and learn about what influenced her work.
Ms. Johnson wasn’t at the studio again this time (see my article from 2021), but I toured the grounds, saw her new work, and studied the last pieces closer. Her studio is on Highway 128, is easy to find, and you can see many of her stone sculptures from the road.
I’m fascinated with Rebecca Johnson’s work in stone at her outdoor sculpture garden. The newest pieces were round boulders in crescent shapes.
Catch A Canoe & Bicycles, Too! in Mendocino
During our stay at The Stanford Inn, we paddled in the ultra-stable outrigger canoe in the Big River Estuary of Mendocino Bay. This water experience helped me overcome my fear of water. I look forward to doing this type of paddling again.
You can rent kayaks, canoes, SUP, and bicycles at Catch A Canoe. The water was calm and allowed us to enjoy the harbor seals lounging on the shore, the birds, the scenery, and the quiet. They cater to families, pets and their owners, singles, couples, and groups.
STAY
The Madrones, Philo
While we didn’t stay at The Madrones, it’s a convenient place to dine late in the week or on the weekend and make your headquarters in Anderson Valley.
An eclectic collection of guest quarters and cabins are in a lumber production area with nature trails that preserve history. Some of the rooms are pet friendly, too. Three ADA-accessible rooms and parking are available for disabled guests. A walk through the unique and exciting herbal apothecary shop leads you into Wickson Restaurant. See below.
Three wine-tasting rooms feature Anderson Valley winemakers and Madrone’s label. The curiosity shop is a gift shop with the Front Desk and a collection of unique and thoughtful items, including books, bowls, games, and toys for children.
The Stanford Inn, Mendocino
The Stanford Inn is a fun, healthy, and educational luxury health-and-wellness retreat. With the pent-up demand from the pandemic and the health consciousness of travelers today, The Stanford Inn is a must-visit on your health journey.
The resort overlooks Mendocino Bay and the historic farm where they tend their on-site certified organic gardens. The Stanford Inn resort is North America’s only truly sustainable destination. I experienced their nationally acclaimed gourmet plant-based cuisine, the recycling and composting program (they use no pesticides in their garden), the cleaning supplies, and bio-diesel-fueled trucks.
Jeff and Joan Stanford have elevated plant-based dining to art in The Ravens restaurant, which is open to the public. Every dish is colorful and full of texture and flavor. Jeff and Sid (see Sid’s role below) share the responsibility of taste testing every evening to ensure the quality that made them famous.
The Stanford Inn offers joyful living strategies led by Sid Garza-Hillman, including yoga classes, creative playshops, cooking classes, complimentary mountain bikes, and water vessels for paddling in the Big River Estuary. I attended an engaging cooking class with Sid, shared an outrigger canoe with my husband, and toured the grounds where Jeff told me that growing things here is their most important work.
Elk Cove Inn, Elk
The stunning view at Elk Cove Inn and luxurious accommodations on this rugged section of the Mendocino Coast is unparalleled. With sea stacks dotting the coves, the sunlight-filled cozy room greeted us and afforded a magnificent view. This favorite romantic getaway is perfect for honeymoons and anniversaries, families with pets, singles, couples, and those seeking a spa retreat.
The Innkeepers are veterans in hospitality. Chef Victor brings years of experience working in multiple countries and an illustrious career at the Miami Culinary Institute. Sommelier Melissa earned several WSET degrees and knows her wines. I challenged her to pair my favorite wine variety (white) with my rabbit order (usually paired with red wine). We savored the meal, from the soup to the dessert and plum wine produced on the grounds.
Spoiled with the champagne breakfasts delivered to our room each morning, we had difficulty taking our eyes off the scene outside the picture windows. They genuinely have the best ocean views on the Mendocino Coast. We ordered from the sophisticated, appealing breakfast menu the evening before.
Outdoor dining and in-room dining are options for dinner time. We had the best seat in the restaurant with a made-to-order sunset. Sibo at Elk Cove Inn, the Inn’s in-house restaurant, which is open to the public, offers farm-to-table dining with produce and other menu items directly from their property.
We were delighted with our tour of the Elk Cove Inn grounds. Melissa and Victor are so proud that they grow and raise so many menu offerings. In two short years under their care, the Inn is primarily self-sustaining.
EAT
The Bewildered Pig, Philo
I waited three years to experience The Bewildered Pig. When Daniel, the co-owner, with spikey hair and outfitted in blue jean overalls, lovingly placed the end-of-season juicy, succulent tomatoes on the table before me, I knew it was worth the wait.
Chef Janelle creates aesthetically pleasing designs on the plate. Not only is it a feast for the eyes, but the flavors and textures are a dream on one’s palate.
Offering one menu on the days they welcome guests, you know the food is the freshest it can be. We strolled through the garden outside the door and discovered tomato vines with plump juicy fruit begging to be picked.
I discovered a new favorite Grenache wine produced by Weatherborne Wines from the wine pairing with our meal. The founder and winemaker, Cris Carter, produces 100 cases a year. The wine pairing from local vintners perfectly accompanied the meal.
Wickson Restaurant, Philo
The recently revitalized Wickson Restaurant at The Madrones Mediterranean compound is the new home to Executive Chef Jason Azevedo who likes to cook with fire. A long-time resident of Mendocino County, he favors the Iberian Peninsula (Spain, Portugal, France) influenced cuisine.
The wood-burning oven, with a peak temperature of 600 degrees Fahrenheit, is the center of the small kitchen. This hive of activity also includes a small prep room and a long counter that holds the dinnerware on shelves for ease of use and separates the kitchen from the guests. It’s the ideal seat to watch the magic of meal preparation.
My husband and I enjoyed a hand-tossed wood-fired pizza for lunch while watching Chef Azevedo prepare giant shrimp and Romesco sauce for the evening meals.
Final Thoughts
Anderson Valley is a slow travel destination with its rolling hills, nurturing grapevines, innovative and dedicated chefs, and proximity to the Mendocino Coast. It offers great places to play, stay, and eat.
