Story and photos by Elsa Dixon
Riding the Mokoro on a Botswana Safari
On our Botswana safari, as the fish eagle cried shrilly overhead, the oarsman in front of us stabbed wildly at the solid ground underneath the reeds in the water trying to stabilize his rocking boat. I clutched my cellphone tighter with the one hand while holding on to my camera with the other wondering if it was such a bright idea bringing my equipment along! But, these guides are experts, and soon we resumed our tranquil drifting on the mokoros through the papyrus waterways, accompanied by the rhythmic splashes of the poles.
Old Bridge Backpackers Camp on the Thamalakane River
Our lodge staff had dropped us off for an early breakfast that morning at The Old Bridge Backpackers Camp.
We boarded an open safari vehicle for a thirty-minute ride to a meeting place at the Thamalakane River in Botswana. A word of warning: even in sunny weather, one needs a windbreaker and a warm cap. The cold wind cuts right through one when driving fast on the open stretch of road. We passed small villages, stray cattle, and goats grazing on grassy patches, crossed a rickety bridge, and then turned off on a dirt road dotted with potholes leading to the launch site.
Gathering Around a Warm Fire in Botswana
The mokoros and villagers were lined up on shore ready to lower the intrepid travelers into the flat-bottomed mokoros, iconic symbols of the Okavango Delta. I looked skeptically at the four narrow hollowed-out wooden boats lying in the mud of the river bank. I need not have worried – the tall polers called ‘ngashi’ pushed the rafts a little more out of the water on to firmer land. Holding a hand for balance, we could step inside, and two to a boat, lower our bottoms onto the floor and stretch out our legs. It was remarkably comfortable.
Launching Mokoro on the Thamalakane River
Gliding silently in the water was a different experience to the flight in the small plane the day before. We could hear movement in the papyrus, smell fresh elephant dung on the nearby riverbank, and see birds dashing amongst the reeds. We were warned not to put our hands in the water since one never knew what lurked underneath! I kept on searching the waters, watching for a crocodile to come drifting by.
A Walk in the Botswana Delta
After a few hours’ paddling, we steered into a side channel and stopped at an island. Our polers helped us out of the boats, and we lined up in single file for a walking safari on the island. We circled a few tents pitched near the river edge, and continued about half a mile on foot. Suddenly, our leader held up a hand and pointed to a group of three elephants nearby. He motioned us to follow him downwind.
A little further on, sounds of voices drifted on the air. Rounding a tall termite hill, we came upon four local women slashing the grass blades with their sickels and collecting bundles for building their thatch huts. They grinned joyfully at seeing us, waved and carried on their work
Among the different tribes living in small villages spread over the Okavango Delta, there are the Banoka, a Bushman tribe, the Bayei, a Bantu tribe, the Herero and the Hambukushu. They all speak their native tribal language and survive by eking out a natural livelihood, fishing, hunting and farming as the seasons allow.
It was time for a break. We half-circled back to the river, found a scraggly bush that provided some shade, and stretched out on the ground. Keeping an eye open for more wildlife, we enjoyed the picnic that the polers brought along. It was bliss to lie on the grass, chatting quietly on an island in the Okavango. Alas, it was time to go back.
Hippos in the Thamalakane River in Botswana
On the way back to the mokoros, we noticed that the elephants had gained ground, causing us to take a precautionary detour of about half a mile. As we trod carefully, we spotted a few wild buck and zebras. Sure enough, on reaching the shore, we saw the elephants crash through the trees and, fortunately, continue on the path alongside the tents, ignoring us.
Exhausted, but very pleased with our adventure, we lowered ourselves back into the mokoros. I leaned back, watching the white clouds float against the blue sky. A feathery leaf from one of the papyrus plants lightly brushed my arm and the hair on my skin bristled when a few hippos grunted and splashed nearby. Drifting silently, a feeling of timelessness, happiness, and peace came over me. All too soon, we were back at our point of departure.
Back at the Lodge
The road to our Lodge surprised us with the sight of the odd baboon and the indigenous antelope, the red lechwe, grazing on the banks of the river. The economic Enviro Villa Lodge, locally run, has a lovely garden overlooking the water. It features an outdoor pool and a restaurant. Our day was complete when our hostess served us a three-course meal by candlelight on the terrace outdoors. We raised a glass to another glorious adventure and settled in for a good night’s sleep.
Flight over the Delta
We made an impromptu visit to the local flight booking offices upstairs in the airport terminal and were fortunate enough to get a flight over the Delta that very afternoon. Maun is the tourism capital of Botswana and gateway to the Okavango Delta, recently declared a World Heritage Site. A word of advice: there are no ATM’s at the airport, but there are a few in the town itself. The currency is ‘pula.’ There was no problem paying by credit card.
After going through security checks again, we could board our plane. As it roared and became airborne, we marveled at the expanse of the Delta waterways below us. Swampy grasslands, lakes, lagoons, and islands came into sight. In winter, 2.6 cubic miles of water flow from Angola submerging most of this area.
We all exclaimed at the sight of our first herd of elephants but then became silent as each of us focused on the scenes unfolding. The waterways in the Moremi Game Reserve created interesting patterns from above, and the groups of elephants, zebras, and buck dotted on pockets of land transformed the flight into an unforgettable experience.
Wild Botswana Safaris on Horseback
Wild Botswana Safaris recommended the Royal Tree Lodge for a safari on horseback. This four-star private game reserve is located twenty minutes from Maun, widely recognized as an ‘iconic safari town’ and ‘gateway to the Okavango Delta.’ The Lodge welcomed all levels of riders. It was a thrill to mount the horses early in the .morning after waking up at sunrise and enjoying a good breakfast. The cold air stung, one’s breath turned into puffs of smoke, but the horses were ready for the open spaces and the shallow water of the Thamalakane River.
From the saddle, one could admire the tall giraffe ambling alongside, or keep up the pace of zebras sprinting. The abundant wildlife and a great variety of birds made each excursion a joyful experience. The iridescent lilac-breasted roller was a firm favorite while coming across springbok, eland, gemsbok, kudu, and ostriches up close never failed to surprise and amaze.
Inner Delta Boat Safari
It was up early in the morning again for another exhilarating adventure: exploring the Moremi Game Reserve and the inner Delta by motorboat. We waved at the occupants of the luxury lodges along the banks of the Thamalakane River as we set off, making an occasional stop to offload supplies. As we neared the small village at the border post of the Reserve, the river traffic increased, since the local population use mokoros for transporting people and goods, even animals.
With the paperwork done, we opened the throttle and negotiated the channel at quite a speed, startling some zebras into a quick gallop. We were forced to slow down when the boat became entangled with the long grass, but soon enough, we were on our way again. Rounding the bends, we would be surprised by the odd crocodile basking motionless, with jaws open wide, and buffalo grazing in the long grass. A shy bushbuck gazed at us from under a tree. Once, to our delight, we managed to take videos of a crash of hippos chasing each other in the shallow waters of the river.
At lunchtime, we found ourselves once again disembarking on the muddy bank of a small island. This time, however, we had a fold-up chair each and a table set up with an array of snacks. As we munched away, we gazed in awe at a remarkable sight. Not too far away, a row of buffalo, followed by a parade of elephants, trudged single file along a game path.
On our way back, we had a last look at the lechwe silhouetted against the blue sky. We waved at the mokoros and the other river traffic going by and laughed at the antics of monkeys in the trees on the river bank. Too soon, we were back in Maun. We enjoyed a last dinner under the stars before bidding the Delta a final goodbye.
Road trip from Maun to Zimbabwe
It was a seven and a half hour road trip from Maun to Zimbabwe. We left on the A3 heading east, bumping through the potholes created by recent heavy rains. As we drove alongside the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, the monotony of the thorn trees was broken by the odd zebra and even an ostrich crossing the road.
After three and a half hours, we turned left on the A33 road at Nata. We stopped at a clearing in the bush for a light picnic lunch. We drove alongside Hwange National Park, seeing a lovely stripe of zebras in the long grass. Finally, we arrived at the border with Zimbabwe at Pandamatenga. Before we could do the paperwork, a rogue elephant prevented passengers from exiting their cars. At last, we turned left onto the A8 to reach the Victoria Falls Village, 40 miles away. We had left Botswana behind, but the country remained deeply etched in our hearts and minds.
Resources for Planning Your Wild Botswana Safari
Tour planning: Wild Botswana Safaris
Address: Maun, Okavango/Moremi, Botswana, Botswana
Email: info@wildbotswanasafaris.com
Contact James or Gaba
Phone: +267 750 999 82
Enviro Villa
Address: Boseja Kubung, Maun, Botswana
http://www.envirovillamaun.com/
Email: reservationsenvirovilla@gmail.com
Phone: +267 735 5952 33
Old Bridge Backpackers/Camping
Address: Maun, Okavango/Moremi, Botswana, Botswana
Email: info@maun-backpackers.com
Phone: +267 686 2406
Royal Tree Lodge on the Thamalakane River
Address: Maun, Botswana
Phone: +267 7679 9883
Kavango Air
http://www.kavangoair.com/gallery/index.htm
Address: Airport Terminal at Maun International Airport, Botswana
Email: aggie@kavangoair.com
Phone: +267 686 0323
Unlimited Tours and Safaris Pty. Ltd
Web: www.unlimitedsafari.com
Contact Adress: PO BOX 20604, Maun Botswana
Email: booking@unlimitedsafari.com
Phone: +267 686 2638
Mobile: +267 71112141
