Stories and photos by Jim Thomas (unless otherwise indicated)
Hello Friends,
Saturday, our last full day in Havana, Cuba, began with our usual buffet breakfast at our hotel. We boarded the bus earlier than normal, around 08:30 AM, because there was another full day planned for us. September 24 was my birthday. Realizing this, the tour group sang “Happy Birthday” to me. I truly appreciated their thoughtfulness. Little did I know that this would not be the last of it.
Our first stop was a visit to the Cuban food distribution point where the locals could use ration cards to pick up certain food items. It wasn’t that extraordinary. However, our next stop was a Cuban Food CO-OP. This was unique in several ways.
In 2012, the Cuban Government, under Raul Castro, authorized a wide range of CO-OPS that allowed workers to collectively open new businesses or to take over state-operated businesses in several different industries. Agriculture was one of these. This initiative began as an experiment to promote economic growth and productivity. These CO-OPS were operated independent of the usual government control. The result was the beginning of a gradual shift of Cuba’s economy toward free-market capitalism and away from the socialistic economy that had dominated Cuba for decades. The shift had been gradual, but slow. The CO-OPS we visited, as well as the various paladar restaurants that we frequented during our tour, were prime examples of this shift of economic systems and philosophies. Like many other places around the world, capitalism was making some progress over socialism.
The food CO-OP we visited was an open-air market that sold vegetables, baked goods, and meats. It was very much like the farmers’ markets in the United States. Being Saturday morning, the market was jam packed with people buying food for the weekend or the whole week. One noticeable difference between this market and the ones in the U. S. was the apparent lack of Food and Health Administration regulations. Note in the attached picture of the meat CO-OP. The floors appear to made of dirt. The cat could roam freely pondering a way to pilfer its own choice of meat. The butcher was selling meat with cigar in hand and blowing cigar smoke on the products. I was sure that provided a unique smoked flavor to the meat. While these gross violations would have caused an American inspector to have apoplexy, the Cuban customers seemed totally unconcerned. Business was very good.
Another Favorite Hemingway Bar in Havana
Leaving the food CO-OP, our bus took us back to Old Town Havana for a walking tour that passed souvenir shops, small shopping districts, and other points of interest. It was a great place to get little gifts, post cards, and the mandatory T-shirt that proved that I had been to Havana, Cuba.
Our walk took us past the Floridita Bar and Restaurant. This was another favorite bar of Ernest Hemingway. It was a bit classier than La Bodequito del Medio, the bar mentioned in an earlier segment. While La Bodequito del Medio was known for the Mojito, the Floridita was best known for its daiquiri. Hemingway enjoyed both. Both places boasted that they were Hemingway’s favorite bar and had numerous memorabilia that supported their claims.
The Plaza De San Francisco and Plaza De Vieja
The walking tour took us to The Plaza De San Francisco and Plaza De Vieja. These were huge areas several blocks in size. They were surrounded by shops, cafés, restaurants, and museums. It seemed to be the focal point for several tour groups that made the area quite crowded. At one end of the square was a Cuban music combo and 6 dancers on stilts! Yes, I said stilts! These colorfully dressed entertainers put on a street show that was captivating. What made their performance even more impressive was that the pavement in the entire square was made of cobblestones! For me, walking, even a few feet, on stilts would have been challenging. Doing their impressively choreographed dance routine on stilts with a treacherous, uneven cobblestone street for a stage was extremely impressive! Note the attached photo with these talented dancers, their musical accompaniment, and their cobblestone “Stage.” You will see why I was so impressed with their performance.
A short distance from the Plaza De San Francisco was The Paladar Los Mercaderes. This was formerly a home with a colonial facade in the historic old town region. The restaurant was up one flight of stairs and was in two pink rooms that were formerly the living room and bedroom of the converted home. While the pink walls and Picasso like art work made for an interesting ambiance, the food was excellent and plentiful, served family style. It was another wonderful meal at a Havana Paladar.
Leaving the restaurant, we found our bus and were grateful for its air conditioning. Before our next scheduled cultural experience, we made a side excursion to Morro Castle which was at the mouth of Havana Harbor. The view from the Castle’s ramparts and grounds provided an excellent view of the city of Havana and the harbor. Our guide directed our attention to the approximate area where the U. S. S. Maine was anchored the night it sank due to a massive, unexplained explosion. The loss of the Maine was one of the major catalysts that propelled the United States into the Spanish American War. Our victory gave us Cuba as a territory for a period. Remembering the Maine was an important part of both Cuban and American history.
Santa Amelia Dance Project
Our next destination was the Santa Amalia Dance Project. This was the last component of our cultural exchange program. In some respects, I would say they saved the best for last. Climbing up a flight of stairs to a large, non-air-conditioned dance hall, we were greeted by an unusual cadre of professional dancers. Except for the two tap dancers in their twenties, the remainder of the troupe easily qualified as senior citizens. The youngest being 70 and the oldest being 90! However, their ages were very misleading. These people were in excellent physical condition and we were about to see why.
The Santa Amelia Dance Project provided visitors with a demonstration of the various jazz dances found in Cuba, including the Cha Cha and the Salsa. Each dancer eagerly took to the floor to demonstrate their intricate dance steps with an energy that was nowhere indicative of their years. Wow! These old people could dance! Most impressive was the 90-year young gentleman that did a high-speed jazz dance and didn’t even appear to break into a sweat! Remember, there was no air conditioning, either! All of us were totally impressed with their dance expertise and their stamina!
Then, the fun began! Each member of the dance troupe grabbed a partner from our tour group and began to teach us Cuban dance steps. Everyone, especially the ladies in our tour group, got with the program! This was one place where we left our inhibitions back on the bus. It was a great opportunity to get some real exercise and to work off those great meals we had been enjoying for the past few days. We danced everything from Salsa to the Twist! Everyone participated and everyone, including our hosts, seemed to have a tremendous time. Many of us agreed that this was one of the high points of the tour. If the overall goal of our visit to Cuba was to promote an exchange between Cuban and American cultures, I would say that our wonderful experience at the Santa Amelia Dance Project achieved that goal.
The last meal, together, in Havana was going to be at the Paladar Casa Miglis. This was a unique restaurant that specializes in Cuban-Swedish-European Cuisine. Furthermore, it was located on the ground floor…no stairs to climb! And, it was air conditioned! Talk about saving the best for last! However, every meal we had during our stay in Havana was outstanding. At Casa Miglis, I had the souvlaki, a chicken and lamb shish-ka-bob. The meal took on a bitter sweet tone because we realized that this was our last meal together. It was a fun evening as we talked about the recent experiences we enjoyed and the memories we had created.
A Very Happy Birthday, Cuban Style
As I savored my meal, I realized that I was dining with 17 good friends who were total strangers 5 days earlier. If I allowed myself, I could have become quite melancholy. However, before I could pursue that line of thinking, dessert was served. Along with the wonderful dessert that came with our order, two huge birthday cakes arrived at our table with a lit candle on each of them. I was totally surprised! After all, they had acknowledged my special day earlier that morning on the bus. After singing “Happy Birthday” one more time and blowing out the candles, we gave each person a huge slice of the most delicious chocolate and whipped cream cake. It was truly divine!
Yet, my good friends felt that this was not enough. Unbeknownst to me, they had covertly purchased a beautifully painted, original card that depicted several of Havana’s landmarks which we had visited during the tour. They had secretly passed it around for each tour member’s signature on the back of the card. Receiving the lovely gift, I was truly touched. As one of our tour members noted, for once I was speechless! However, I quickly recovered and expressed how grateful I was for their sincere thoughtfulness. It was the best birthday that I have had in years! After I returned home, I went to an art store to purchase a frame that was clear on both sides. Thus, I could see the beautiful work of art on the front side as well as the lovely sentiments on the back of it. When I returned home from Cuba, I placed the card in a prominent spot on the bookcase in my living room. It was my favorite memento of my Happenings in Havana.
Our Last Night in Havana
As we prepared to return to the hotel, the waitress offered to pack up the remainder of the cake. Frankly, I already had eaten too much that evening. I didn’t need to eat any more of that delicious cake, nor consume the thousands of calories that went with each piece. Instead of accepting her gracious offer, I asked if she had any little children at home. She said she had 3 children. I suggested that she take the cake for them, her husband, and herself. The big smile on her face reflected her gratitude. I also received the nods of approval from several members of our tour group. It was a lovely way to end this wonderful evening.
The ride back to the hotel gave us one last look at the throngs of people on the Malecon sea wall. They were still enjoying the cool ocean breezes that provided a brief respite from the oppressive heat in their non-air-conditioned dwellings. The sight served to punctuate the fact that life in Havana was going to continue even after we left. Since we had to be ready to go to the airport early in the morning, most of us immediately retired to our rooms upon returning to the hotel. There was packing and preparing for travel to be done. I wanted to carefully wrap and pack my new prized possession, my lovely birthday card signed by my 17 new friends.
My next and last segment of my Happenings in Havana series will cover our departure from Havana. It will also provide final thoughts of this wonderful trip. Additionaly, I will discuss lessons learned and suggestions for future visitors to Havana.
