Story and photos by Dan Ciufo
The Intriguing Diversity of the Balkans
Varied and diverse in topography, history, scenery and culture, travel to the Balkans offers a surprising and eye-opening sensory overload! Your imagination will shift into overdrive as you experience some of the most beautiful, interesting and complicated places on the continent. There are plenty of options for both on and off the beaten path travel. The western Balkans boast modern major cities like Ljubljana and Zagreb, jaw dropping romantic hill towns in the Istrian Peninsula of Croatia, stunning national parks like Plitvice, and even isolated villages that see very few westerners or visitors for that matter for those ready to slip a little outside their comfort zones.
Slovenia, Croatia, and Bosnia
The region known as the Balkans is highly diverse, sharing a nearly Austrian feel in Slovenia in the north, a laid back Mediterranean vibe in Croatia along the emerald green Adriatic coast. Greek influences inspire Macedonia to the south and an eastern European feel in former communist Romania and Bulgaria. And in the middle of all that are Bosnia and Serbia which defy comparison but have soaked up a combination of both western European and eastern influences from the long occupation of the Ottoman Empire as well as the complicated interplay of Islam and Orthodox Christianity. Since one trip is clearly not enough to get a taste of the entire region, we will focus our lens on the western Balkan countries of Slovenia, Bosnia and Croatia with a wide view, then with more detail in the future.
Slovenia
The Balkans can be visualized as a fulcrum tipping now towards the west and Europe, and then towards the east, being heavily influenced by Ottoman Empire which controlled this area after taking Constantinople in 1453.
Slovenia in the north typifies the western orientation, sharing much of its culture with its northern neighbor, Austria–clean, stunning Julian Alps in the north (fun to get lost in!), and over 70% Catholic population. Slovenia even arm wrestles Austria as the “original” breeder of Lipizzan horses which you can take in with a nice half-day tour to Lipica and the Lipizzaner Stud Farm less than two hours driving from the beautiful capitol, Ljubljana. Along the way it would be nearly criminal to miss the Predjama Castle, a 13th century castle built into the side of a mountain and the self-acclaimed largest Renaissance castle in the world.
An amazing circular drive takes you from Ljubljana, Predjama, Lipica and then on northward to Lake Bled, a gorgeous lake with a tiny island church, worthy of a couple days respite. Men, do not pass up the opportunity to prove your worthiness as a current or future husband by sharing in the tradition of carrying your wife or fiancé’ up the 99 steps to the church! Lake Bled also serves as a perfect departure point for the Julian Alps. Many jewels await you in northern Slovenia, most of which are easy driving distance from Ljubljana. And that makes a great launching pad to explore what is arguably the most culturally interesting, or at least different location, Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Bosnia
If the thought of travel to formerly war-torn and predominantly Muslim Bosnia gives you pause, put your worries behind you. An easy flight from Ljubljana to Sarajevo lands you in a rather different world from what many western travelers experience.
This country may have an “exotic” feel as you navigate the old Turkish Market area with its Hookah lounges, narrow cobbled streets, mosques and the five times daily call to prayer. Evidence of the wars of the 1990s is abundant and we found the local population all too ready to talk about it. It’s still a relatively raw topic with many.
From Sarajevo to Remote Lukomir
A fairly short but challenging drive southwest from Sarajevo can take you off-the-beaten-path to Lukomir, the highest and most remote village in Bosnia, a once in a lifetime experience that transports you back a couple centuries to a shepherd lifestyle. Except this one is authentic, is not reenacted and is largely void of any tourists! Heading west on the way to Croatia is the historic gem of Mostar, Bosnia. With the photogenic Stari Most bridge dividing the city, dizzying streets and the beautiful nighttime lighting, this historic town is worthy of at least one overnight stay in the Ottoman styled residence, the Muslibegovic House, which is also a national monument and museum. Bosnia is a deeply fascinating country, still raw from the wars of the 1990s.
Getting Lost in Dubrovnik
A public bus trip of about four hours to the southwest takes you through the countryside as well as many towns, both small and large, nearly each of which reveals evidence of the devastating wars of the early ‘90’s.
The bus trip, avoiding cross-border car rental fees points towards the Adriatic and eventually lands you in southern Croatia, and particularly in the stunning jewel of medieval Dubrovnik. The town center is festooned with a labyrinth of twisty, narrow, steep old world streets. Getting lost in Dubrovnik is a must-a delight which always lands you back at a recognizable landmark.
Mount Srd and Games of Thrones
The fortress and town walls are essential to your visit and the town has capitalized on the “Game of Thrones” phenomena with plenty of places that cater to that theme for devotees. Not to be missed is a trip up Mount Srd with the cable car though hiking is an option for the hearty. Mount Srd offers a restaurant and incredible views of the old town, as well as the best sunset in the region. For the history buffs, walking through the battle-damaged buildings and the trenches from the siege of Dubrovnik is a hands-on interesting experience. Two to three days in Dubrovnik satisfies, and is a worthy launching point for a gorgeous driving trip up the Adriatic coast. Croatia has a well-developed highway system that is easily navigable with a rental and good GPS.
Islands in the Emerald Waters of the Adriatic
Along the way, an array of islands, like Korcula, Brac’, or Hvar are accessible by ferry and all of them offer great overnight side trip opportunities. Korcula is a delightful island with a laid-back feel, emerald water along Adriatic beaches, and is a nice spot to cool your heels and enjoy a couple day island respite before you motor north towards the major town of Split. North and west of Split, the Istrian Peninsula should be considered among the most beautiful and romantic regions in all of Europe. Charming Rovinj with an easily walkable Old Town section is the jewel in this constellation of Adriatic seacoast towns. Rovinj is a perfect way to finish your touring, as you’ll enjoy pasta and seafood dishes that rival Italy, and share in some of the most romantic and beautiful sunsets to be found anywhere. Rovinj and the hill towns of the Istrian Peninsula are simply stunning and several days there will leave you still wanting!
The Perfect Travel Circle
Describing a giant traveling circle, starting in Ljubljana, Slovenia then heading south to Bosnia, west to Croatia, north along the Adriatic coast leaves you perfectly positioned for a short trip back to Ljubljana for your trip home. Beautiful, mountainous and clean Slovenia, Ottoman influenced and perplexing Bosnia, old world and Mediterranean feeling Croatia–any one of these countries merits at least a week on their own. The countries of the western Balkans may not have yet leaped onto your radar, but they should—you won’t regret the investment!
