Stories and photos by Roxie LaFever (unless otherwise indicated)
If asked to describe the Washington, DC Metro Area, most would say things like “the Nation’s Capital,” “Seat of our U.S. Government,” “The White House – Home of the President,” or “The Capitol Building Where Laws are Made,” and while true, they don’t reflect the true personality or ambiance of this city. You might also mention the Smithsonian Museums, Monuments to Wars and Great Men, The National Zoo, Georgetown or George Washington University; again, those are made of brick and mortar and while important – miss the mark. There is an underlying energy to this city, and by “city” I mean the original 100 miles of the District of Columbia plus all the surrounding neighborhoods, towns, and cities: both inside and outside the beltway.
To truly know it, you must live here, but I will share with you some of the wonderful things you can see whether this is your first visit or your tenth. Join over 20 million tourists annually to explore our Nation’s Capital!
The Creation of a Nation’s Capital
The energetic vibe of DC starts with how and when it came to be….and evolved over the past 220 years. Originally authorized as part of the U.S. Constitution; as a district (not exceeding a 10-mile square); no guidance was given as to where it would be located. In the Compromise of 1790, Statesmen Madison, Hamilton and Jefferson agreed that it would be in the South; in exchange for paying off each State’s outstanding debts from the Revolutionary War.
US Capitol
But all was not peaceful during the restoration. Years prior to the start of the Civil War, the District was already being divided. The City of Alexandria was a major market for slave trade and citizens worried that Congress (though mixed) would likely vote against slave trade (and eventually slave ownership) as tensions were increasing. In 1846, upon request, Congress returned the City of Alexandria to the State of Virginia through a process called retrocession. The original 100 square miles were reduced to just over 68 square miles of which 61 is land and 7 is water.
The States of Maryland and Virginia were also split in their views as they approached the Civil War. Maryland would not secede from the Union; largely influenced by its close ties to Pennsylvania and the inability to maintain a border between their states. Virginia, being a southern slave-holding state, initially voted against succession in early April 1861 but changed their mind after President Abraham Lincoln, on April 15, 1861, called for all states “still in the Union” to provide troops “to put down the rebellion.” Their succession also led to the creation of West Virginia by 50 counties in the western part deciding to go it alone. The City of Alexandria, while technically part of the Southern Confederacy now, was captured by the U.S. Army in May 1861 leading to many battles between the South’s capital in Richmond, VA and the North claimed areas in the upper part of the State.
We will not repeat the Civil War…. but rather just restate that the North won, slavery was abolished, and Congress granted the District’s African American men the right to vote in municipal elections in 1868. As you tour the area, you will see monuments, statues and dedications to all sides.
The New Deal of the 1930s brought new government buildings, memorials and museums to fill the newly laid out street map. World War II lead to the increase in federal employees and by 1950, DC was home to over 800,000 residents. As our strength as a nation grew, the United States of America became a leader in international affairs. DC now has the honor of hosting 177 foreign embassies and other prestigious groups like the World Bank Group, the International Monetary Fund, and the American Red Cross.
It is still a city divided since inception, but that’s just part of the nature of this city where laws are debated, budgets negotiated, and political parties choose sides. As a tourist, you don’t need to concern yourself. Let the Lobbyist, the Associations, the Political Action Committees, Cabinet Members, Congressmen, Supreme Court Justices, Agency and Congressional Staffers support “the inner workings of government,” while you enjoy the beautiful sites, explore eclectic neighborhoods, and imbibe the abundant selection of international food.
Walking the Mall and the World’s Largest Museum
On your first trip to DC, most head to the National Mall area – with the Lincoln Memorial on one end and the Capital Building on the other; museums and monuments in between.
Easily accessible by metro – notice some marked metro stops on the map – or taxi, Uber and Lyft too. If you have your own car, download the posted parking app to pay by credit card in 2-hour blocks of time (no feeding meters). There are also companies offering hop on, hop off tourist bus services, Segway tours, or you can rent a bicycle or scooter. The map here is from the DC Circulator – DC’s bus system whose red numbers mark their stops.
One of our national treasures is the Smithsonian Institute, founded in 1846 and funded by and based on the wishes of Englishman James Smithson. It has now grown to 19 Museums and 1 Zoo (mostly in the DC Area) and includes over 155 million objects and specimens. Admissions are free, but before coming, I suggest you peruse their website www.si.edu and identify current exhibits, events, and locations; special activities are designed for children.
Many of the museums are on the mall, but not all. The Air and Space Museum has two buildings: one on the mall and the other about 30 minutes outside the city close to Dulles Airport. The National Zoo is in the district but still a good 20-minute taxi ride from the mall. Towards the middle of the mall is the African American Museum, which requires an entrance ticket due to popularity. Their website typically shows tickets unavailable weeks in advance. But as an insider, I suggest checking online the same day because I have twice been able to download tickets 10 minutes ahead and walked right in.
Monuments and Memorials
Along the mall, visit memorials to great Presidents like Lincoln, Jefferson and Roosevelt – each inspiring for shaping this great nation and getting us through difficult times like the Civil War and the Emancipation of Slaves, the fight for independence, and the Great Depression. Other great men like Martin Luther King, Jr. are also honored for leadership and perseverance during the Civil Rights Movement.
The Washington Monument, a tribute to our first President, was just reopened in 2019 after years of renovation and the view from the top is amazing on a nice clear sunny day. A quick elevator ride offers views in all four directions. Tickets for reserved time slots must be picked up in advance from the shop down the hill from the entrance. The Apollo 11 launch, landing and reentry was projected onto the monument as part of the 50-year anniversary.
DC War Memorials
War memorials to the men and women who fought and gave the ultimate sacrifice for our country are somber, but we need to remember. The black granite wall of the Vietnam Memorial lists the names of more than 58,000 Americans who gave their lives. The World War II Memorial commemorates the 16 million members that served and 400,000 that died; all from the 48 states, DC and supporting territories of 1945 as listed on the 56 pillars. The memorial inspiring the most emotion is the Korean War Memorial where you walk amongst life-size statues of soldiers with all their gear while next to a wall reflecting actual faces of those who died.
And across the Memorial Bridge, on the other side of the Potomac River from the Lincoln Memorial, is Arlington National Cemetery. Walking 624 acres of veteran tombstones, it’s a memorable experience. Most notable is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier which has been perpetually guarded since 1937. Take time to honor those that served by attending the regularly scheduled and regimented changing of the guards. Tours consist of visiting gravesites of well-known individuals like President Kennedy and Supreme Court Justices, along with the eternal flame. Whenever crossing Memorial Bridge at night, always look up to see the eternal flame shining brightly as a reminder.
Initial Neighborhoods of Georgetown and Alexandria Today
No view is as peaceful as watching the rowers glide along the Potomac River in Georgetown. The Rowing Club was first established in 1859, and Georgetown University also offers men and women’s competitive teams. By heading down to the harbor area shown in the photo under the bridge, many restaurants and bars offer outdoor waterfront seating, or feel free to stroll along the shore. The gray spires at the top of the hill are from Georgetown University, a private Ivy League institution that has educated leaders in government and business since 1789.
Established in 1751, Georgetown has been home to historical men like Francis Scott Key, who resided on M Street and was inspired to write “The Star-Spangled Banner” after being held captive during the War of 1812. Alexander Graham Bell’s original switching office for the Bell System is located by the C&O Canal and is still utilized as a phone facility today. President John F. Kennedy and his wife Jackie hosted many parties at their Georgetown home in the 1950s, and Elizabeth Taylor and her then husband Senator John Warner followed suit in the 1970s.
Georgetown has also been utilized in many films, most notably for the 75-step staircase at the end of 36th Street NW which came to be known as “The Exorcist Steps!” Other notable films include St. Elmo’s Fire, which was set in Georgetown but filmed nearby in Maryland, The Man with One Red Shoe starring Tom Hanks, True Lies, Wedding Crashers, and television shows like The West Wing. Do not be surprised to see celebrities roaming – disguised as normal people. A particularly good place to “people watch” is the Café Milano – for both political and celebrity types.
Georgetown remains a university town with upper crust neighbors living in historic row homes and mansions. Many wonderful restaurants, bars and shops are located along M Street, and the center of town is crossed with Wisconsin Avenue, ending down at the harbor at Potomac’s edge. Please take a taxi to visit – the residents would not allow a metro stop.
Alexandria
The City of Alexandria is located 7 miles south of downtown Washington, DC along the Potomac River on the Virginia side. It is also the route that President George Washington would have taken on horseback to reach his home of Mount Vernon; 17 miles south of Alexandria. Visiting Old Town Alexandria is a favorite easily walkable stroll through the past. The main street, King Street, leads up from the Potomac River past the City Hall all the way to George Washington’s Masonic Temple and Museum.
Seafood is a favorite at The Chart House, Fish Market or a neighborhood favorite, The Landini Brothers. There are British pubs, Scottish pubs and Irish pubs. Two-Nineteen serves creole food and on the weekend the plaza in front of the City Hall is one of the best Farmer’s Markets in the area.
Local art and artists can be found down by the water in the Torpedo Factory Art Center, where each artist displays their wares to view or purchase. You will see the signs for ghost tours of the area and to hear the local lore from the time of the Revolutionary War. Alexandria was occupied by both sides and Robert E. Lee used to reside on Oronoco, just a couple blocks from King Street.
Down by the water’s edge, you can sit outside and enjoy lunch, dinner or drinks. You can also take a trip up the Potomac by water taxi to Georgetown, with drinks or a dinner cruise included.
It’s easy to get from Alexandria to DC via the Metro with both the Blue and Yellow Lines converging at the King Street – Old Town station at the top of King Street by the Masonic Temple. There are three other metro stations within Alexandria but not near Old Town.
Scottish and Irish events/parades happen twice a year with the Scottish Walk the first Saturday of December and the Irish Parade and dancing close to Saint Patrick’s Day in March.
And day tours are always available for booking from local hotels to DC, Alexandria, Georgetown, or down to Mount Vernon. Pick a community that feels right – metropolitan city, old university town or old colonial town – as your main stay and explore.
Relive 220 years
By worldly standards, we are a young country, and the nation’s capital, while having lived through much, has become well established and strongly represents this country. Come walk the mall and the halls of this great nation – reflected in the monuments, museums and neighborhoods – and the personalities of those that live here. And may everyone always feel welcome….!