Story and photos by Lisa Evans (unless otherwise indicated)
Antebellum homes with Spanish moss falling gently from the boughs of beautiful oak trees. Staggering history from hundreds of years ago. The Mighty Mississippi River meandering below as you perch on the bluffs above. Is this how you envision Natchez when you hear its name?
I have always loved Southern charm, elegance, and grace. Throw in some history, and I’m obsessed even more. Natchez has all the qualities noted here and much more. It is a city that exudes hospitality yet pays homage to its history.
Everywhere I visited and spoke with people, I was readily offered two or three more things as a ‘must-see,’ thereby ensuring I must plan a time for a return visit. Natchez has the history I crave to learn and some fantastic food and entertainment venues. Do you enjoy shopping? No problem! Looking for a luxurious place to hold a wedding or other event? They can do that too. Walking trails and plentiful nature can be found on display all over Natchez.
Sit back as I take you on a short tour of Natchez, giving an overview of the city, and if you’re like me, instill a craving to visit and experience more.
Get the First Glimpse of the Mighty River
When you arrive in town, you are drawn to the edge. The 200 ft. bluff overlooks the river and is breathtaking. The majesty of the Mississippi River lies in front of you, and the view is staggering. Standing on the bluff, you can look right to see the endless beauty of the water or look left and see the Vidalia Bridge. Be sure to check out the local history signage as well as the gazebo in the park. Relax on the benches that line the walkway.
If you are so inclined, some steps lead down to a path to walk alongside the water. Natchez Under the Hill has a magnificent view of the river up close and personal and several areas for local food and libations.
Stay at Devereaux Shields House, a Stately Bed & Breakfast
If there is any city that is worthy of iconic Bed & Breakfast accommodations, it is Natchez. My choice was the Devereaux Shields House. This 1893 Victorian home is, in a word, gorgeous. Driving down the quiet street lined with magnificent buildings, you wonder how you could get so lucky. Walking through the gate is like taking steps back in time. Both the innkeeper and owner greeted me and offered their welcomes.
The two-story home, while grand and graceful, at the same time exuded an aura of comfort and hospitality. The antique furniture is lovingly cared for, and the room itself made you feel like you were in a fairy tale. The caretaker’s love and warmth for this home clearly show in how their guests are treated. It is truly an experience.
Learn a Bit About Natchez
When entering a new city, a trip to its Visitor’s Center is always recommended. I was thoroughly impressed with the center charged with giving out information about the area. The Natchez Visitors Center is on Canal Street and houses the Welcome Center and the Natchez National Historical Parks and Visit Natchez offices.
Within these walls, you will find brochures and maps, along with plentiful information on anything local. While the staff was accommodating, I found the various displays enthralling. The timelines bring you from the early 1700s in Colonial Natchez through the Civil War to the modern era. You learn about the varied architectural history and the cotton gin. A visit here will whet your appetite for everything available to experience while in Natchez.
Visit a Native American Ceremonial Mound
What are those, you might ask? I know that was my first thought. What I found was a fascinating culture dating back centuries. The Natchez Indians lived in the area as far back as 700 A.D. up until about 1730. The Grand Village was sacred and served as their main ceremonial grounds from 1682 – 1730.
In the Natchez Indian tradition, once a great leader died, their home was demolished, and the home of the new leader was built atop the old one. This created the mounds seen at the Grand Village.
The Great Sun’s Mound and the Temple Mound have been excavated. Some of the artifacts found within are on display inside the museum, and they are fascinating. A third mound, called Mound A, has yet to be uncovered, but you can see its outline on the grounds.
Experience a Jaw-Dropping Moment
If you’ve ever heard of Longwood, you would expect to be captivated as you come up the long, winding drive. But reality sometimes outshines imagination. This 30,000 sq. ft., six-floor octagonal home is quite literally spectacular. Longwood is the largest octagonal house in the U.S. The best part? Only the basement is finished.
Construction started on the home in 1860, and by 1862, the shell was complete. The wealthy cotton plantation owner had it built as his dream house, and the family decided to live in the basement until the remainder was finished.
Enter the Civil War. Finances were lost by the family, and while they never had the funds to finish construction, three generations did live in the home for over one hundred years. The Pilgrimage Garden Club of Natchez now owns it.
Most of the furnishings in the home are originals from the family. The entire estate, including the unfinished upper floors, is quite simply stunning. Longwood is a definite must-see.
Grab a Local Beer and a Bite to Eat at Natchez Brewing
Natchez Brewing Company is a local craft beer producer, restaurant, and city hotspot. Love for the local culture and genuine Southern hospitality radiates from the atmosphere of the place. They do make the “Best Pizza” claim for the city. After trying one of their hand-tossed varieties, I must say I think their product can stake that claim.
The tanks of craft-brewed beer are in full view of the diners, and there is no illusion of anything other than being completely casual and comfortable. They offer live music on many weekends and even every now and then for a weekday special event.
Tourists and locals alike come to enjoy the fun vibe and partake of beers you cannot get anywhere else. The beer made at Natchez Brewing is only available on-premises. Should you find a favorite that you must have again, they offer growlers that can be filled and sealed for you to take home. But once you run out, the only alternative is for a return visit!
Visit One of Many Historical Landmarks in Natchez
Do you know where the first American flag was raised in the Mississippi Territory? It was at the House on Ellicott Hill, in Natchez. With rights granted by the 1795 treaty with Spain, President Washington sent Major Andrew Ellicott to raise that flag. In 1797, Major Ellicott did so on the highest hill, in clear view of the Spanish Fort Rosalie.
The house was then built into the side of the hill and afforded its wealthy residents a fabulous view of the parks and mighty river below it. Through the years, Ellicott House was used for a wide variety of purposes. From a boy’s high school to a tavern, and a couple other incarnations, it remains Natchez’s oldest surviving building.
The Natchez Garden Club now owns and preserves the building. Most pieces inside the home are period pieces, but a few are from the original house. It is a fascinating place to visit, and the views are incredible.
Get Your Groove On at the Delta Music Museum
Just a few short minutes from downtown Natchez, drive over the Mississippi River Bridge, and you’re in Louisiana. Just across the river lies a small town called Ferriday, with a penchant for music history.
Driving up to a renovated post office and finding it houses one of the most fascinating music history collections was a great discovery for me – the Delta Music Museum. It is so bathed in history that it has its own trail marker along the Mississippi Blues Trail, called the Mississippi to Louisiana marker.
Within the museum, you will find history, stories, personalized items, and more from artists such as the famed three cousins Jerry Lee Lewis, Jimmy Lee Swaggart, and Mickey Gilley. I’m sure you’ve heard such names as Conway Twitty, Aaron Neville, and Fats Domino. The list goes on and on. Immerse yourself in this underappreciated museum, and I promise you won’t regret it.
Visit a True Cotton Plantation at Frogmore
While in Ferriday, travel another few minutes to come upon an 1800 acre working cotton plantation. When you visit Frogmore Cotton Plantation and Gins, you will see how old meets new. Frogmore pays homage to their past while moving forward into the future.
A tour of Frogmore shows structures on the plantation dating back into the 1800s. You learn the chores and duties of the slaves, the transformation to sharecropping, how cotton was picked, cleaned, and readied for shipment. The tour was utterly fascinating, especially when given by the current-day mistress of the plantation.
She runs the entire operation with the help of her sons. Her story, and that of Frogmore itself, is riveting. To witness a modern-day plantation house, acres upon acres of crops, and then to stroll through the grounds and be transported back to the 1800s was an experience I won’t soon forget.
Finish your Visit with a Meal in a Castle
To end my stay in Natchez, I checked off one more item on my travel list – I had dinner in a Castle. More accurately, the original carriage house and stable were built to resemble a castle and are part of Dunleith Historic Inn. It is known as The Castle Pub and Restaurant.
It is an 18th-century brick structure with dark wooden walls and rafters and clever lighting in the ceiling. An exceptionally well-stocked bar with a casual flair, it has a sports bar feel. The food is phenomenal, with everyone being amicable and engaging. You can arrive in casual or evening wear, whichever suits your mood.
Strolling the area after dinner, you pass by a fabulous outdoor herb garden that supplies fresh herbs to the restaurant. There is also an outdoor pool and patio area, with lighting set about it for pure ambiance. As you look up, the lights illuminate the turrets of the carriage house, and you will feel like royalty!
Visit Natchez, Mississippi
Natchez is proof that a city can preserve its history while still making strides into current times. Here you will see the graceful beauty of Antebellum and Victorian homes where history seeps from their walls. Just down the street, you will find a trendy restaurant and unique shopping adventures.
You’ll see remnants of the past and a much different way of living. Bringing it all together in the most majestic way possible is the grand Mississippi River. Standing on the bluffs overlooking the natural beauty of this charming city, realizing the strategic part it has played for centuries, is nothing short of amazing.
Past and present perfectly blended in nature’s beauty – that is Natchez.
