Stories by Kerrie-Anne Riles and photos by Kerrie-Anne and Alan Riles (unless otherwise indicated)
Hotel B in Lima
If you are wanting to experience the bohemian side of Barranco in Lima but still want the luxury of a fine hotel, then Hotel B is definitely a good choice. Situated two blocks from the Pacific Coast and 5 minutes by taxi from Mirafores it is in a protected heritage area filled with historic houses.
Both the doorman and receptionist greeted us with a friendly smile and seemed oblivious to the fact that it was after midnight due to our plane’s late arrival. Invited to sit in the carved antique armchairs with a glass of bubbly as we checked in, we felt very welcome in these luxury surroundings.
History of Hotel B
In the 19th-century Barranco was a fashionable seaside retreat for Limeño aristocracy. The original two-story house was constructed in 1914 with traditional local materials complemented by Italian marbles and imported woods. The Belle Époque style mansion reflects the glamour of the 20’s. Built for the Garcia Bedoya family, it was designed by Clause Sahut who designed the Golden Hall in Palacio de Gobierno –the Government Palace, in Lima. It included an ornate façade, high ceilings, teatinas (local styled skylights), open balconies and marbled terraces for ample ventilation.
In 2010 the building underwent a major three-year renovation turning the original residence into a luxury hotel following the heritage guidelines of the National Institute of Culture of Peru. The reconstruction team included sculptors from the Fine Arts Academy and a team of carpenters led by an Italian master woodcrafter. Consisting of only 13 restored suites and 7 contemporary suites the hotel is a maze of corridors leading to the suites and public rooms. There are no adjoining suites; instead there are “combination” rooms with a short private hall leading to them.
Extraordinary Food
An extravagant breakfast buffet is served in La Biblioteca–the library. Spoilt for choice, you can also order from the extensive breakfast menu. No boring eggs and bacon here. Every dish is a tasty example of breakfast Peruvian style. We had Desayuno Criola–fried pork pieces, green tomale, sweet potato puré and a criola sauce and Huevos Soltero– poached eggs with paprika hollandaise sauce and a cold salsa served with artisanal bread. All served on fine china of course!
La Biblioteca can also be booked for meetings. Adjoining La Biblioteca is the Patio, an internal courtyard dominated by an ancient fig tree and a two storey vertical “green wall”. This al fresco area is used for catered lunches for meeting groups and is available for casual seating at other times.
Peruvian Afternoon Tea
La Lonche–Peruvian afternoon tea, is served every afternoon in the bar. Reminiscent of British afternoon tea, this has been a tradition in Lima since early republican times when society would meet to discuss the events of the day. The gathering became important within the political, social and culinary circles. Being offered coffee, hot chocolate and herbal infusions, it is hard to resist the delectable cakes, biscuits, sandwiches, mini tarts and éclairs on offer.
The Bald Singer
There is a large restaurant and bar with a huge painting of The Bald Singer by renowned Peruvian contemporary artist José Tola. The hotel displays over 3000 works of art and has been described as an arts-boutique Hotel in the heart of a bohemian revival neighborhood. The collection is an eclectic mix of modern and ancient. You can arrange to have a guided tour of the hotel with explanations of the origins and significance of the many artworks on display.
La Terraza/Sundowner Lounge
Climbing the spiral staircase you will find a tranquil rooftop garden terrace; La Terraza/Sundowner Lounge. It is perfect for sunset drinks overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Although there is no waiter in attendance you won’t go hungry or thirsty. Just use the intercom on each table and whatever you order will soon be brought to you.
Hotel B is currently extending into the art gallery next door creating another, more casual, dining area with an open kitchen and live music. This will be known as Plan B and will be available for functions.
Scenic Walks Around Hotel B
Hotel B is perfectly situated for a stroll along the Malecón–boardwalk, that runs between the ocean cliffs and acres of different manicured parklands. It almost never rains in Lima but the parks are always green and full of flowers. You can dar un paseo–take a leisurely walk, or relax and enjoy watching the paragliders floating tranquilly over the ocean. You can even visit the children’s playground in Parque Alfredo Salazar where you will find a statue of Paddington Bear who, as everyone knows, came from “darkest Peru”. Evening is the perfect time to visit Lacomar shopping center hidden on the cliffs beneath the Malecón in Miraflores with its international shopping and dozens of places to indulge in Peruvian food. It is always busy but it really comes to life after dark.
Great Restaurants in Lima are Nearby
You are within walking distance of many restaurants from haute cuisine to tiny family café bars. Some examples:–
Central is one of Lima’s most famous restaurants. With a strong emphasis on using little know traditional Peruvian ingredients in themed tasting menus, it consistently ranks in the top 10 restaurants in the world.
Isolina specializes in recreating traditional home cooking dishes. Be prepared to join the queue to eat here!
Javiers– dine in the middle of the artistic Bohemian center of Barranco with views of the Pacific Ocean from this multi level restaurant.
Rustica– as the name implies, this is a less formal restaurant that serves à la carte and an evening buffet.
Ayahuasca–Another of Barranco’s mansions which has been converted into a lively bar and restaurant, popular for social gatherings with a mainly tapa style menu.
Cocktail Mixing Class
The highlight of our stay at Hotel B was our hands on cocktail mixing class. Our knowledgeable bar tender, Jhoan, guided us through the making of three cocktails. Everything we needed for the cocktails was neatly laid out ready for us. We started with the history of Peru’s national drink, Pisco Sours, invented by an American bar tender Victor Vaughen Morris in Lima in the early 1920’s when he ran out of whisky for whisky sours. Slightly modified since then, Pisco Sours have become so popular they are almost compulsory drinking in Peru. The wine for these is grown in the Ica region about 300 km south of Lima. The other two cocktails we learnt were Bascilicos and Dirty Daquaris. We learned how to measure the ingredients, muddle herbs, the correct way to shake our cocktails and most importantly how to secure the double shakers so we didn’t pour the contents all over ourselves. Our cocktails were easily as good as you would buy in a bar (at least we thought so!). Between each cocktail we had plain crackers and water and a serving of tapas. I enjoyed two of the tapas so much that the chef made me a special off-menu meal with them for dinner in the restaurant that night.
Attention to Detail
Have you ever accidentally hung the “do not disturb” sign the wrong way round and without warning had the maid in your room? Not so at Hotel B. This is another example of their attention to detail for the comfort of guests. When you arrive you will find a black tie on the bed. Hang this on the doorknob outside your room and you will never be disturbed. A bit quirky but totally effective!
Guest comfort is clearly a priority at Hotel B. Some of the staff are bilingual and interpretation and translation services are available on request as are secretarial services. There is a gift store selling Peruvian art and handcraft.
Hotel B Deserves Its Spot in the Top Ten
Walking through Barranco you can’t help feeling relaxed and enjoy the artistic atmosphere that surrounds you, making Hotel B the perfect base to explore the many art galleries and restaurants. Described by Forbes Travel Guide as “among the city’s most coveted locations for those seeking a luxurious boutique hotel” it is easy to see why Hotel B is always in the top 10 hotels lists for accommodation in Lima.
Address: Sáenz Peña 204, Barranco Peru
http://www.hotelb.pe/barranco
