Arrival At Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
A choir of Zimbabweans in traditional attire welcomed us as we exited the small airport at Victoria Falls. The performance heightened our excitement to be visiting Zimbabwe. We were looking forward to seeing the Falls, considered one of the seven wonders of the world in its full glory.
The local people call it “Mosi-oa-Tunya” — the smoke that thunders, referring to the considerable noise the water makes as it falls and the resultant column of spray that arises.
Victoria Falls and the surrounding area have been declared a National Park and a World Heritage Site. At over a mile wide and 351 feet high, the Falls are one-and-a-half times as wide and twice as high as the Niagara Falls. An average of nearly 20,000 cubic feet of water plunge over the edge into the Zambezi Gorge every minute.
Guided Tour of Victoria Falls
One can visit Victoria Falls all year round. From September to November, visibility is high, offering the finest views of the spectacular Falls. To experience the full impact of the Falls, one should go between February to May when the river is full. Remember to bring waterproof clothing since you will most certainly get wet with the spray. Plastic ponchos are available at the entrance.
After paying the admittance fee, one could easily do the Falls tour alone since there is a well-marked, paved path with several viewpoints. We decided on the guided tour since it would include transport to the Park, and it was a way of supporting the local community. It was also fun to talk to one of the locals and hear his stories.
We made a stop at the Big Tree, sometimes called Livingstone’s Tree. It is a colossal baobab or upside-down tree, 79 feet tall with a circumference of 74 feet. After buying one or two curios, we had to firmly fend off enthusiastic craftsmen pushing their wares under our noses, intent on getting more highly sought after American dollars.
David Livingstone Statue
We stood awhile at David Livingstone’s statue, the Victorian explorer, leaning on his walking stick, looking towards Devil’s Cataract before entering the magnificent rain forest. It was a real pleasure to see the impressive variety of plants and hear the bird calls as they darted from branch to branch.
We learned that geological upheavals caused a shift in the river systems. The rivers’ path changed, and the vast volume of water continually falling over rocks during millions of years formed the Falls.
A Walk Along the Falls
There were no fences at the clearings, providing unobstructed views of the Falls. I edged gingerly towards the precipes, careful not to go too near. We marveled how the Falls’ contours changed every time we rounded a different bend on the path. As we stood at one point, a huge rainbow appeared through the misty sunshine. The trail finally led to a point where we could see the Victoria Falls Bridge demarcating Zimbabwe and Zambia’s border. We were thoroughly drenched by now. We laughed as we shook off the droplets, still awed by the power of those falling waters. The spray only added to its impact.
A few tips: It is dangerous to go too near the edge of the Falls at the lookout points.
Always keep your passport handy when you are at or want to cross the border into Zambia for activities on the other side. You will have to pay for a special day visa. Have your Zimbabwe visa handy too.
Flight of the Angels
When David Livingstone came upon the Victoria Falls in the 1960s, he exclaimed, “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” It is worth every dollar to take the flight over the Falls. The views are breathtaking. One cannot grasp the magnitude of the Zambezi river and the full extent of the Falls and Gorges until one sees it from above. It is also a thrilling experience to have an aerial view of the plains of Africa, some wild animals, settlements of people, and tourist developments.
There are usually two flights to choose from, either 12 – 13 or 25 – 27 minutes duration. Once again, remember your passport, and bring American dollars for the conservation fee. On demand, the company will sell you a video of your flight. There is also a very nice boutique/curio shop on the premises.
Sundowner Cruise On The Zambezi
The mighty Zambezi River, symbol of Africa, has always held a fascination for me. Herds of buffalo and elephants frequent its streams while hippos lurk in its tranquil lagoons. There are plenty of exciting activities at Victoria Falls for the more adventurous, such as bungee jumping and paragliding or white water rafting in the Zambezi. We chose to partake in a gentler pursuit and signed up for a sunset cruise.
It felt as if we were going to sail into darkest Africa when a joyful black choir sang, stomped their feet, and clapped hands as we set off from the slipway. The sky was a late afternoon deep orange, silhouetting the few other boats already in the water. We sampled the appetizers set out on small tables scattered across the deck and sipped our invigorating ‘sundowners.’
Now and then, a cry would go up: “Baboon!” “Heron!” and we would all jerk our heads in the pointed direction. The boat took us on a leisurely journey along sandbanks, and to our joy, we saw a big crocodile, mouth held wide open, basking in the last rays of the sun. We headed back to the deeper waters, and a wave of excitement rippled through the passengers. An elephant was swimming towards us! That was such an unusual sight that it took my breath away. We delighted in its antics until it was too dark to see him. We headed back, enjoying the lapping of the water, the setting sun, our sundowners, and the subdued chatter of the other guests—what a wonderful way to conclude the day.
Devil’s Pool at the Falls
If you want to test your limit, opt for a leap into Devil’s Pool at the top of the Falls. This activity is only possible on the Zambian side from October to November when the water is low. Guides take a small group to Livingston Island, then swim across the Zambezi, followed by a leap into the natural rock pool. The current takes you to the edge of the Falls.
The Wild Horizons Elephant Sanctuary and Orphanage
It is always a joy to see African elephants close-up, and visiting The Wild Horizons Elephant Sanctuary and Orphanage provided us with such an intimate opportunity. The Sanctuary is not only home to the animals used in previous years for elephant rides, but also a haven for orphaned elephants. It aims to rescue the little ones, rehabilitate them, and then release them in the wild.
The guides were friendly, welcoming, and knowledgeable. After an informative talk, they took us on a mini-game drive to find the elephants. On the way, we were lucky enough to see a herd of wild African Buffalo. We had the opportunity to meet the giants, touch them, and even feed them treats. This was an unforgettable experience.
The highlight, however, was the walk in the bush with these magnificent pachyderms. Only then could one truly grasp their massive size and see how the animals communicate with their keepers. At the end of the encounter, we sat down and enjoyed a great breakfast at The Wallow, overlooking the Masuwe River and the expanse beyond.
There are three tours to choose from, with pickups scheduled for 6:30 am, 9 am, or 3:30 pm with drop-offs three hours later. Bring sunscreen and remember to wear walking shoes and a sunhat.
The Three Monkeys Restaurant
Situated in the middle of Victoria Falls Town, the Three Monkeys is a unique restaurant and cocktail bar built around a refurbished railway carriage dating back to 1935. We immediately felt at home when we received a warm welcome and heard that the motto was ‘Fun dining!’ We relaxed with a round of the best strawberry daiquiris we had ever tasted and enjoyed some starters served in a bowl in the shape of a crocodile. As an accompaniment, we chose an outstanding South African Nederburg Lyric wine, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and Chardonnay. I laughed at my friend’s expression when the server placed an impressive game meat skewer on a hanging kebab stand in front of her. Here you can enjoy fine dining and more casual meals, ranging from wood-fired pizzas to burgers.
The Boma Dinner and Drum Show
We had a vibrant and fun-filled evening at The Boma, a little out of town. As we entered, a few charming ladies and gentlemen slipped a ‘chitenge’ (sarong with African print) over our shoulders. I could not help but join in when the traditional dancers welcomed us. The ceremonial greeting set the tone for a traditional African experience.
The Restaurant in the Boma
The steward settled us at a table for six people in the huge restaurant, decorated to resemble a Zimbabwean cooking hut. The kitchen provided a four-course feast, first presenting a shared starter platter, soup from the campfire, a selection of salads and vegetarian dishes, a braai (barbecue) buffet featuring game meats and stews, and an array of desserts.
African Extravaganza
In between dining, we enjoyed riveting traditional dance performances and an interactive drumming show when the performers handed members of the audience a djembe drum. Acapella singers came to serenade us at our table while a few ladies painted our faces. The evening ended on a high note when the crowd joined the traditional dancers on the floor. We thoroughly enjoyed this fun-filled African extravaganza.
Tip: Take some extra cash to support the curio-sellers after the event.
Victoria Falls Hotel
For a taste of bygone days, visit the Victoria Falls Hotel for tea, drinks, or a meal or even better, stay over for a night or two. This grand Edwardian-style hotel is a little more than a mile from the Falls and the Victoria Falls Bridge. Cecil John Rhodes had a dream of a railroad from the Cape to Cairo, and the builders constructed the hotel in 1904 as accommodation for the railway workers. As we approached the entrance, we drove underneath a splendid arch proudly announcing its name.
One can book an old fashioned sunset steam train journey from the Victoria Falls Train Station near the hotel to the impressive Victoria Falls Bridge and back, enjoying luxurious service and an extravagant three-course meal.
Reception at The Victoria Falls Hotel
Friendly staff in dress reminiscent of the Colonial days greeted us at the door. We marveled at the stunning reception area with its rich teak wood paneling, the opulent lounge areas, and a beautiful spiral staircase. Studying the century-old art on the walls, one could trace the British influence, especially in the unique collection of framed British cartoons.
The Sculpture Garden
There are various restaurant areas in lovely courtyards outside and beautiful venues inside, all with impeccable service and excellent menus. We enjoyed having lunch and a gin and tonic on a large patio. While looking at the spray of the Falls in the distance, we followed the private pathway along the green terraces leading to the Falls. At the bottom of the laid-out lawns, we turned right to explore the sculpture garden.
Accommodation at the Victoria Falls Hotel
The accommodation at the hotel features luxurious five-star rooms and suites. If you are looking for exceptional, personalized service, look no further than the deluxe Stables Signature Wing Rooms with private check-in at the Stables lounge. Besides complimentary teas and pastries, each guest has a massage voucher as well. Recently, the hotel achieved a Green Tourism silver award for its commitment to environmental concerns.
The Wild Horizons Elephant Sanctuary and Orphanage
https://www.victoriafallselephantsanctuary.com/
Address: The Elephant Camp, Victoria Falls National Park, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Phones +263 83 2844571 / 6213
email: info@wildhorizons.co.za
The Boma Dinner and Drum Show
http://www.theboma.co.zw/
Contact boma@saflodge.co.zw
Victoria Falls Hotel
https://www.matriarchafrica.com/destinations/zimbabwe/victoria-falls/victoria-falls-accommodation/victoria-falls-hotel/
Address: Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Agent for all bookings: Flame of Africa
https://flameofafrica.com/
Address: Shop 22 Hunters Africa Mall, President Ave, Kasane, Botswana
Phone: +267 625 2248 / +27 31 762 2424
web@flameofafrica.com
