Part One: From the Capital to the Coast
Story and photos by Elsa Dixon
Windhoek, A Tale Of Two Cities in Namibia
“Guten Morgen. Wie geht’s?”
We looked up from the menu, surprised to find the Nama gentleman greeting us in fluent German. We were sitting in a restaurant in Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia. I switched to Afrikaans, and he answered me fluently in that language. We discovered that, although the government uses only English, people commonly speak Afrikaans and German, and of course, the indigenous languages. Many ethnic groups, such as Nama, Damara, Okavango, Herero, and Himba, still live traditional lives today.
The Germans had established Namibia, situated in Southwest Africa, as a colony from 1884 until 1915. At the end of World War 1, Germany gave South Africa the country, then called South-West Africa, as a Protectorate. A resistance movement, the South-West African People’s Liberation Organization (SWAPO) of Namibia was instrumental in the fight to win freedom for its people. Namibia gained its independence in 1990.
Today, this bustling, noisy town is a remarkable mix of German colonial heritage, architecture, and indigenous African culture. Modern buildings co-exist with old historic structures, indeed, a tale of two cities.
Christuskirche
The parking area at the ‘Church of Christ’ is conveniently located opposite the Independence Museum. If you have a rental car, remember to tip the guard a dollar or two for looking after your vehicle. It is common practice in Namibia and South Africa to tip car guards. Christuskirche, built in 1907 and renovated during 1967 – 72, is one of the German colonial landmarks.
Situated on a hill, this Lutheran church, with its beautiful stained glass windows, is visible from a long distance. The church is still operational, with services in German on Sundays. Although it is supposed to be open to the public on weekdays till 6 pm, it is sometimes difficult to locate a person to open the church for visitors.
The Independence Memorial Museum of Namibia
A statue of Sam Nujoma holding a copy of the Constituency Book dominates the Independence Memorial Museum entrance on Robert Mugabe Avenue.
Nujoma was an anti-apartheid activist who served three terms as the first President of Namibia. The different floors exhibit Namibia’s dark and bloody struggle for independence, first from the colonial repression, then the South African rule and subsequent Border War.
Finally, it depicts the People’s Liberation Army of Namibia’s role in obtaining freedom for its people. The exhibits were stark and disturbing. However, viewing the Panoramic Hall from a platform on the third floor gave one a feeling of hope for the country’s future.
For stunning views of Windhoek and the surrounding mountains, take the glass-paneled elevator up the five-story building. The museum is open seven days a week, and entry is free.
Alte Feste, the “Old Fortress”
On the other side of the Memorial is the ‘Old Fortress”, now a historical museum showcasing a range of colonial items such as wagons and domestic objects. Originally built as headquarters for the German colonial military force (Shutztruppe), it served as military headquarters for the South African Army in 1915 when the Germans surrendered in Windhoek after World War 1. In the foreground is a statue reading “Whose blood waters our freedom.” This line is from Namibia’s National Anthem, paying tribute to the heroes and heroines of the liberation struggle.
Tintenpalast, the “Ink Palace”
Next door to the Christuskirche is the Tintenpalast, which opened in 1913. The name ‘Ink Palace’ referred to the large quantities of ink used by the workers in the building. It functions as the seat of the National Assembly today.
The Tintenpalast is situated in the very popular Parliament Gardens. Three Namibian nationalists are honored with bronze statues at the building entrance in the gardens: Hendrik Witbooi, Theophilus Hamutumbangela, and the Herero chief, Hosea Kutako. The gardens used to be an olive plantation and still contains an olive grove today.
Joe’s Beerhouse – A Great Place to Eat in Windhoek, Namibia
Joe’s Beerhouse is an iconic landmark in Windhoek. One cannot miss the Mini car parked on a bridge spanning the entrance. It belonged to two Portuguese travelers who drove the little car from Maputo, Mozambique, across Africa from the east to the west coast. They were so impressed with the hospitality of Joe’s Beerhouse and the warm reception they received after telling the tales of their adventures that they abandoned the vehicle right there.
The memorabilia filling every available nook and cranny is mindboggling. A discarded toilet, stuffed animal heads, signposts, clothing, metal objects, and implements of all sorts all compete for space. The bars serve a variety of local, South African, and German beers and liquors, among other things.
We heartily tucked into selecting dishes, each with a distinct German, Portuguese, South African, or local cuisine influence. Game dishes, like Oryx Carpaccio, Smoked Kudu steak, loin cuts of crocodile, zebra, or springbuck, spiked the interest. Names such as Eisbein, Namibian-style lamb curry, Portuguese spices, and Cactusblitz whet the appetite.
Swakopmund, “Little Germany”
Swakopmund, sometimes called Little Germany, is a small coastal city surrounded by the Namib Desert. It is an enjoyable stroll through town, taking in the half-timbered houses and buildings erected during the 19th century. International cuisine and business inhabit the buildings, proudly displaying their German colonial heritage. Although the new government renamed some German and Afrikaans street names for Freedom fighters after Independence, the town has retained a distinctly German feel.
Swakopmund is a popular holiday destination for Namibians and tourists alike. It offers beaches, fishing, bars, coffee shops, and excellent restaurants. Its other claim to fame is having one of only five desert all grass golf courses in the world. There are various activities, such as sand duning, quad bike riding on the dunes, and fishing on offer.
The Information Center is well worth a visit. The center is beautifully set up, with great examples of different crafts and products that Swakopmund has to offer. Take a copy of your passport along when buying curios in the stores.
Welwitschia, a Living Plant Fossil
One can only look in awe at the Welwitschia, dating back to more than 1000 years ago. It is advisable to book a tour to see this marvel. The road leads through Moon Valley, formed about 500 million years ago. Ox wagon tracks dating back to nearly a century ago are fixed in the sand. Before reaching the Welwitschia Plains, there are a few isolated farms in the Swakop River Valley.
Welwitschia plants originated in the Jurassic period and survived in only a few isolated places in this barren landscape. They are actually trees that grow underground, consisting of a stem, two leaves, and a long taproot, and can be either male or female. The two leaves look frayed since they have been growing continuously along the ground for centuries, exposed to weather conditions and erosion. These leaves have unique structures that catch the dew during the night. Welwitschias, of course, are a protected species.
Walvis Bay, Home of Flamingos and other Wildlife
From Swakopmund, it is a short distance along the Coastal Highway to Walvis Bay, the second-largest city in Namibia. South Africa and Namibia jointly administered Walvis Bay until 1994, when South Africa officially transferred the town to Namibia.
Like other coastal towns in this land, the surrounding hot air of the desert clashes with the cold air from the Atlantic ocean, producing a heavy fog that settles over the area. Life depends on this moisture.
Pelican Point Peninsula shelters the active harbor, while the tidal lagoon is home to abundant birdlife. Flocks of flamingos, pelicans, and Damara terns inhabit the area, while dolphins, whales, and Cape fur seals frequent the waters around the Pelican Point Lighthouse.
A Sandy Golfing Range
On the outskirts of town, there is a unique golf driving range consisting of sandbanks. We watched as a Namibian assistant trudged through the sand, collecting the golf balls in a bucket to return them to the golfer.
Dune 7, the Tallest Sand Dune in the World
Dune 7, at 1256 feet high, is the tallest in the world. It owes its name to the fact that it is the 7th one past the Tsauchab River. It is quite an experience to veer off the main sandy tarred road and drive through even deeper dune sands to reach this monster. It is a favorite place for sand duners to practice their craft!
Joe’s Beerhouse, Windhoek
Address: 160 Nelson Mandela Ave, Windhoek, Namibia
Phone: +264 61 232 457
Aha Beach Hotel, Swakopmund
http://www.beach-hotel-swakopmund.com/
Address: Suedstrand St. 1, Swakopmund, Namibia
Phone: +264 64 417 7000
Kallisto Tours and Services
