Stories and photos by Elsa Dixon (unless otherwise indicated)
Colorful Namaqualand in Coastal South Africa
Between August and October, Namaqualand, on the West Coast of South Africa, transforms its semi-desert landscape into a brightly colored mosaic of wildflowers. Namaqualand rolls out a riotous mix of colors, covering the fields, filling every nook and cranny, stretching as far as the eye can see. Allow at least five to six days to revel in this wonder of nature, as well as explore what the West Coast has to offer.
Rock Paintings at Citrusdal
Take the N7 from Cape Town to see the wildflowers, driving through wheatfields and orange orchards and rural towns like Malmesbury, Moorreesburg, and Piketberg. Stop at Citrusdal, an easy two-hour drive on the N7 from Cape Town. Citrusdal, with its thriving citrus fruit farming industry, lies at the foot of the Cederberg mountains in the Olifants River Valley in the Western Cape province of South Africa. Ask at the Information Center for information on Rock art sites in the area.
Ramskop Wildflower Garden At Clanwilliam
The N7 is in excellent condition, and as we progressed, the fields along the road turned into carpets of wildflowers. We stopped at Ramskop Wildflower Garden near another small town, Clanwilliam, in the Olifants River valley of the Western Cape. We wandered up and down the hill along the winding paths, admiring the vivid, colorful displays of a wide variety of flora and enjoying the birds and small creatures in the bushes and among the plants.
As we rounded yet another corner of the Garden, the Cederberg mountains and the Clanwilliam dam came into view. The bright blue stretch of water made an excellent backdrop for the profusion of wildflowers.
Clanwilliam
Clanwilliam is one of the ten oldest towns in the country, rich in cultural and historical heritage. The Dutch Reformed Church, completed about 1864 and situated on Main Street, is a stunning, whitewashed building with a beautiful Cape Dutch gable. Carl Otto Hager, a well-known architect, designed and supervised this neo-Gothic style church. The majority of Afrikaans-speaking people in South Africa belong to the Dutch Reformed Church. During the Flower Season, visitors enjoy the displays of local flowers in this historic building.
Rooibos Tea Factory, Clanwilliam
Clanwilliam is also the heart of the Rooibos tea area, the only place in the world where it grows. Rooibos (Aspalathus linearis) means ‘red bush,’ and it flourishes in a ‘fynbos’ (fine-leaved bush) environment. ‘Fynbos’ is a distinctive type of vegetation found only on the southern tip of Africa. South Africans have prepared herbal tea from the leaves of this plant for many years. During the last decade, people from other parts of the world have become aware of its beneficial properties and Clanwilliam now processes, pack and market the redbush tea.
Van Rhyn Guest House
We chose to stay at the Van Rhyn Guest House, an old Victorian house built in 1902, where Herbert and Terence warmly welcomed us. Vanrhynsdorp is close to a few small towns, floral routes, and other attractions. Our hosts provided a delicious home-cooked dinner around a big table where we mixed with other guests and shared our wildflower experiences.
ZAR (Zuid-Afrikaanse Republiek) Restaurant
We had heard about the nearby ZAR (Zuid-Afrikaanse Republiek) restaurant with an Anglo-Boer war theme, situated in the caravan park on the border of the town. We were a little skeptical but decided to be adventurous. We were pleasantly surprised. The extensive menu consisted of exotic and unusual but very palatable dishes, such as rump steak covered with snails and cheese sauce. The manager poured each of us a very generous glass of Pinotage, a uniquely South African grape variety. In this case, the red wine came from the Klawer winery on the West coast.
A tip: Since the demand for accommodation is high during the flower season, it is necessary to book in advance. Although these small towns seem somewhat neglected, there are excellent guesthouses, farm stays, and self-catering places.
Knersvlakte, a Barren, Desolate Region of South Africa
A local friend directed us to a good location for having a close look at the barren Knersvlakte, a desolate region of hilly terrain covered with quartz gravel. The word ‘Knersvlakte’ literally means ‘grinding flat area’ and refers to the quartz gravel’s grinding sound when walked upon. We were amazed to see this desolate land, comprised of white pebbles thrown up from the ocean floor many, many years ago.
A tip: The local people who are proud of their wildflowers will happily share recommendations of excellent viewing spots, often off the beaten track.
The Knersvlakte, which falls within the Succulent Karoo region, is considered one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots. We tread carefully on the ground because, at intervals, delicate, small succulents suddenly appeared in the cracks. These rare dwarf plants have adapted to survive in this hot arid climate.
Quiver-Tree Forest – A World Of Ancient Aloes
We were keen to see the sizeable quiver-tree forest. We drove to Loeriesfontein via the Van Rhyn’s Pass and Nieuwoudtville to see this stunning sight. On the way, we saw a pair of ostriches and flocks of blue cranes (South Africa’s National Bird) and sacred ibises.
Quiver trees are a kind of aloe (Aloe Dichotoma) with branches that split into smaller sections. The spiky leaves have adapted to the extreme heat. In former years, hunter-gatherers hollowed these branches and made quivers from them, hence the name quiver-trees.
We enjoyed a quiet cup of tea from our flask while we sat on a wall around a massive old windpump in the solitude of the barren landscape.
Matjiesfontein Flower Farm and Farm Stall
We paid a small entrance fee to drive the stunning flower route at Matjiesfontein Flower Farm and Farm Stall. We bought a few souvenirs at the gift shop in the old stone building and enjoyed a refreshing drink at the restaurant renowned for its traditional ‘boerekos’ (farmers’ food), like tripe and stews.
Nieuwoudtville, the Bulb Capital of the World
Nieuwoudtville, known as the ‘Bulb Capital of the World’, boasts a profusion of flowering bulbs and the country’s largest succulent nursery. We turned off on a country road to view the beautiful cascading waterfall.
Feeling a little peckish, we stopped at the stalls of local products at the exit. Supporting local enterprise like this is a fun way of getting a real taste of regional food and delicacies. We opted for a fresh, warm ‘skuinskoek’ (diagonal cake,) a cross between a donut and a vetkoek (fat cake), and a curried vetkoek.
Kamieskroon and Namaqua National Park
We turned off on a gravel road towards Hondeklipbaai, and following the Wallekraal Road, we headed back towards Kamieskroon. Two mountain passes lay ahead: the Killian and Grootvlei, each with dirt roads winding round increasingly steep curves, ascending and then descending. We saw beautiful rocky mountains and extended open vistas covered with wildflowers.
We finally came upon the little town of Kamieskroon, close to the Namaqua National Park, with more than 620 square miles of vivid carpets of color.
Skilpad Flower Reserve
Namaqua National Park incorporates the Skilpad Flower Reserve, open only during August and September. We followed the circular drive, pulling off the road to explore a short walking trail, hoping to see the elusive tortoise (skilpad) for which the Reserve is named. We admired the way the flowers turned towards the sun. We learned that die-hard wildflower watchers and photographers plan their route according to the path of the sun.
Namaqua Speckled Padloper Tortoise
The Park is home to the world’s smallest tortoise, the Namaqua Speckled Padloper or the Speckled Cape tortoise (family Testudinidae), endemic to South Africa. We did not see it while in the Reserve, but we could look at it in the reception area.
Springbok, The Flower Capital Of Namaqualand
Next, we aimed for Springbok, the flower capital of Namaqualand. Springbok is also an ideal stopover en route to Namibia. The attractive town lies around a central hill, known by locals as ‘Klipkoppie’ (Stone Hill.) During the Second Boer War, the Boers used the mountain as a fort for its excellent vantage point. It isn’t easy to describe the feeling of wonder when one drives through miles and miles of fields of bright orange and yellow wildflowers.
The Goegap (Guchab) Nature Reserve and Hester Malan Wild Flower Garden
The Goegap (Guchab) Nature Reserve contains the Hester Malan Wild Flower Garden displaying a rock garden and Namakwa succulent plants, neatly organized and labeled in eye-level exhibits.
We drove the 11-mile scenic loop through the Goegap Nature Reserve and were amazed to see at least 20 gemsbuck (South African oryx), a few springbuck, and zebra cavorting amongst the wildflowers.
Useful Information If You Go
Citrusdal Tourism Office (information Rock Paintings)
Telephone: 022 921 3210
E-mail: info@citrusdal.info
Van Rhyn Guest House
Van Riebeeck Straat, 8170, Vanrhynsdorp, South Africa
Ramskop Wildflower Garden
Address: 14 Ou Kaapse Rd, Clanwilliam, 8135, South Africa
Rooibos Tea Factory (Rooibos Limited)
Address: Rooitee St, Clanwilliam, 8135, South Africa
Phone: +27 27 482 2155
ZAR (Zuid-Afrikaanse Republiek) Restaurant
http://www.vanrhynsdorpcaravanpark.co.za/
Caravanspark 8170, Vanrhynsdorp, South Africa
Phone: +27 27 219 128
Matjiesfontein Flower Farm and Farm Stall
Matjiesfontein Farm Stall
Phone: +27 27 218 133
E-mail: info@nieuwoudtville.com
Namaqua National Park
Phone: +27 27 672 1948
Hantam National Botanical Gardens
E-mail: Hantam@sanbi.org.za
