Story and photos by Julie Diebolt-Price
Joshua Tree, home to Joshua Tree National Park in Southern California, spans a transition zone overlapping two deserts and biological diversity that excites the senses and piques outdoor enthusiasts’ and conservationists’ interests.
Many opportunities to experience other desert communities and outdoor activities surround Joshua Tree National Park in the Morongo Basin. Military families call Twentynine Palms home. Artists have found space for their unique artwork, yoga, sound baths, and music retreats are popular, orchids have a prolific foothold, and alien believers even have their place in this harsh environment.
With so much to see and do in this desert playground, it’s hard to know where to start. Drawn to this unique wilderness, three times a year, I craft my solo expedition and always find something new and exciting to share.
We begin this tour in Southern California, heading east from US 10 at Highway 62 near Palm Springs. Allow several days to explore or return more often to encounter new adventures.
A Little History
Morongo Valley
Gneiss and schist are granite rocks almost two billion years old in Big Morongo Canyon. Nomadic tribes used the canyon as an accessible route from the low to high deserts for centuries.
The Morongo was a powerful but peaceful clan of Serrano Indians who lived there until the 1800s when white settlers brought smallpox that wiped out more than half of the tribe.
Big Morongo Canyon is a year-round water source that nourishes migrating birds, mammals, amphibians, insects, and reptiles. The Nature Conservancy purchased acreage in 1968 and 1974 to make a Wildlife Preserve of 240 acres. It became part of the Sand to Snow National Monument, managed by the Bureau of Land Management, which now comprises 31,000 acres connecting it to Joshua Tree National Park. The wilderness is a wildlife corridor for Mule Deer, Big Horn Sheep, Mountain Lions, and the California Black Bear.
Yucca Valley
Yucca Valley opened up to ranching in 1881 after a hand-dug well on leased land allowed grazing there. Homesteaders arrived in the early 1900s, and feuds between ranchers and the new homeowners began over land usage.
After World War II, veterans with health problems were allowed small homesteading plots. Highway improvements brought tourists and movie making companies.
Pioneertown
Most famous for the Western movie sets, Pioneertown still attracts top music performers and filmmakers. Gene Autry made many movies here, along with Edgar Buchanan in the Judge Roy Bean movies in the 1940s, 50s, and 60s. Robert Redford, Katherine Ross, and Barbara Stanwick were also starring on the sets. Rick Springfield produced a music video here as recently as 2018.
The area’s terrain is prone to wildfires, such as the Pioneertown fire in July 2006, because of the excessive plant growth during the rainy seasons and flash floods. The plants within the town and the scrub in the mountains outside of the San Bernardino National Forest wilt and die from the summer heat, providing lots of fuel during a fire. The elevation also enjoys occasional snow accumulation during the winter months.
Landers
A powerful earthquake shook much of Southern California on June 28, 1992, at 4:57 am. The shaking lasted for two to three minutes and measured a 7.3 magnitude. Because Landers is so sparsely populated, there was little damage and loss of life. While Landers may enjoy a low population, it is a destination for sound baths, orchids, aliens, and giant rocks.
Joshua Tree National Park
President Franklin D. Roosevelt proclaimed what we now know as Joshua Tree National Park, a national monument in 1936. The California Desert Protection Act renamed the area in 1994 to the National Park. More than 80 percent of the land is managed as wilderness and protects 792,510 acres where the Colorado and Mojave Deserts converge.
Twentynine Palms
The Marine Corps Air Ground Combat Center (MCAGCC), also known as 29 Palms, is the largest United States Marine Corps base. Used during World War II by the US Army Airforce, in 1952, the U.S. Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton created the training center and established the Marine Corps Training Center, Twentynine Palms.
Joshua Tree National Park is used regularly for the Marine’s rock-climbing training. I had a ring-side seat for these training exercises on a solo camping trip to Indian Cove Campground.
The streets of Twentynine Palms are the open-air art gallery of the Oasis of Murals. Started by the Merchants Committee in 1994, there are 26 murals to enjoy right now. The murals are all representations of the history and influencers of Twentynine Palms, flora, and fauna of the Mojave Desert and Joshua Tree National Park.
Desert Hot Springs
After hiking, camping, and adventuring, a layover in neighboring Coachella Valley on your way back to US 10 will restore you with its famous natural hot and cold mineral waters.
Curative mineral waters discovered hundreds of years ago by the Cahuilla Indians were unearthed again in 1914 by Cabot Yerxa. A businessman, artist, and human rights activist with a particular focus on Native American tribes, Yerxa drilled wells and tapped into the Mission Aquifer.
Park Geography, Geology, and Other Living Things
The east half of the Park is up to 3,000 feet above sea level and lies within the Colorado Desert, which is part of the Sonoran Desert extending to southern Arizona and northwest Mexico and is considered the low desert.
The west half of the Park, elevation from 3,000 feet and above with the highest peak Quail Mountain, is 5,816 feet above sea level in the Little San Bernardino Mountains and is where the Joshua trees grow and is considered the high desert.
Joshua trees really aren’t trees. They are succulents and a species of the yucca. They conserve moisture with their waxy, spiny leaves that expose little surface area. Joshua trees can grow to over 40 feet tall at about one inch per year. They bloom in February through April and are home to many birds, snakes, bugs, and rabbits.
The unique rock formations are awe-inspiring as you drive into the Park. It’s like a city of skyscrapers created by a mighty hand, stacking boulders into unlikely shapes. What began underground eons ago, volcanic activity pushed magma up to form granite blocks that have been weathered to leave heaps of blocks for rock climbers and boulderers to play on and challenge their skills.
Weather in Joshua Tree
The climate is arid desert in the Morongo Basin. That means hot, dry summers and cool winters with cold mornings and occasional snow and rain. Flash flooding occurs sometimes. Snow falls in areas above 1,500 feet in elevation. The skies are usually clear, though, with 25% humidity.
The best seasons to visit are spring and fall, with an average high of 85 degrees and low of 50 degrees.
Winter highs are about 60 degrees during the day and freezing at night. Summer temperatures range from 75 degrees at night and up to 100 plus degrees during the day.
How to Get to Joshua Tree
FLY
Fly to any of these destination airports. Plan your fly/drive vacation and prepare ahead of time for an enjoyable experience. Plentiful big chain stores fill the Morongo Basin, so you won’t have any trouble finding everything you need for camping (including wood for campfires and making S’ mores) and other food, sundries, and personal necessities.
Los Angeles
Ontario
Orange County
Palm Springs (the closest airport)
Phoenix
DRIVE
Joshua Tree National Park lies within a few hours’ drive of several major metropolitan areas. The Park is located about:
140 miles east of Los Angeles
175 miles northeast of San Diego
215 miles southwest of Las Vegas, Nevada
222 miles west of Phoenix, Arizona
From Los Angeles and Ontario
Take US 10 East through Ontario to North Palm Springs.
Head north on Highway 62.
A right turn at the traffic light at Pierson Blvd will take you to Desert Hot Springs. (Save this destination for your outbound trip.)
Continue east on Highway 62 to Morongo Valley, Yucca Valley, Joshua Tree, and Twentynine Palms.
From Orange County
Take the 91 Freeway to the 60 East.
Connect with the 10 Freeway East at the Beaumont/Banning exit.
Continue as above from Los Angeles and Ontario.
From Phoenix
Take US 10 West to the Cottonwood exit.From Palm Springs
Head west on US 10.
Head north on Highway 62, then same as above from Los Angeles, Ontario, and Orange County.
PLAY
From outdoor activities like hiking, dirt biking, bouldering, scrambling, and rock climbing, you can expect exciting shopping, art exhibits and outdoor art, golf outings, spa and water experiences, theater performances and Native American rituals—all within a few miles of Joshua Tree National Park.
For more great things to do see Joshua Tree PLAY.
In Joshua Tree National Park
If you plan to camp or hike in Joshua Tree National Park, be prepared with water (minimum of one gallon of water per person per day).
Avoid strenuous activity in times of extreme heat. Use protection from the sun, like a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses.
Night Sky Watching/Astrotourism
Joshua Tree National Park is the last pool of natural darkness in Southern California. Between Los Angeles and the Inland Empire, the Morongo Basin and Palm Springs city lights significantly impact the west half of the Park. It is difficult to stargaze under a relatively dark sky. If you venture into the eastern part of the Park wilderness, you will be rewarded with the darkest night skies remaining in the region.
Tip: Park at any of the roadside pullouts and set up chairs to watch the stars overhead. Stay awake and alert within 20 feet (6 meters) of your vehicle. The Pinto Basin Road between Cholla Cactus Garden and Cottonwood has the least traffic and darkest skies.
Tip: Watch your step in the darkness (use a red-light flashlight or headlamp; wear closed-toed shoes).
Tip: There is no cell service throughout the Park. There is coverage at Black Rock Campground, which is close to Yucca Valley and Indian Cove Campground is close to Twentynine Palms. Light pollution afflicts these campgrounds.
STAY in Joshua Tree
While JTNP has the market cornered on the camping and glamping scene, many chain hotels with pools offer accommodations to meet personal needs.
There are other options besides camping and chain hotels. You can stay in a yurt, in an RV park, or other accommodations like an Airstream trailer in the desert. See the PlayStayEat STAY section for more detailed information.
EAT in Joshua Tree
S’ mores have priority at campfires in JTNP, and many fast food restaurant chains offer meals to families with hungry children in the surrounding towns. There are a few unique eateries that offer something out of the ordinary. See PlayStayEat EAT for more details – Joshua Tree.
20 Top Things to Do in and around Joshua Tree
- Stroll on the Morongo Basin Boardwalk in the Sand to Mountain National Monument
- Play golf at Hawks Landing in Yucca Valley
- Shop at Moonwind in Flamingo Heights
- Watch goat hair spinning at Soap ‘n Goats in Pioneertown
- Take a studio tour of Pioneertown
- Enjoy a meal and music at Pappy and Harriet’s
- Look for aliens at Giant Rock in Landers
- Enjoy a sound bath at the Integratron
- Take a tour of Gubler’s Orchid Nursery
- Stargaze in the Official Dark Sky of Joshua Tree National Park
- Hike the many desert trails in Joshua Tree National Park
- Try rock climbing, scrambling, or bouldering with guides
- Camp under the stars and make s’ mores on a campfire
- Take the waters in Desert Hot Springs
- Play golf at Mission Lakes Country Club in Desert Hot Springs
- Join ranger-led programs on astronomy
- Climb boulders at Skull Rock in Jumbo Rocks campground
- Be awed at Keys View and look for the San Andreas Fault
- Explore art studios throughout the valley
- Take a windmill farm tour
Joshua Tree National Park – International Dark Sky Park (IDSP)
The biggest draw for visitors to the Morongo Basin is Joshua Tree National Park, an Official Dark Sky park. That means reduced light pollution, and you have some of the best dark skies to view the stars and planets.
Outside of the Park
Art, Shopping, and Theater
Art installations and galleries fill the valley. Artists open their studios on select weekends during the year for self-guided art tours. If you need shopping therapy, many unique shops will draw your attention throughout the region. Groves Cabin Theatre, the small, intimate theater (only 23 seats) tucked away in Morongo Valley, hosts impressive stage productions.
Pioneertown
Music, food, lodging, and shopping in Pioneertown will make you feel like you are in an old western movie.
Golf, Yoga, or Taking the Waters
Play a round or two of golf in Yucca Valley or take the waters in Desert Hot Springs if you want something a little more refined.
Notable yoga, sacred music, Native American ceremonies, and music festivals are held during the year at Joshua Tree RV & Campground, Miracle Hot Springs Resort, and other regional locations.
Orchids and Aliens
Landers is home to Gubler Orchid Farm, where you can tour the spectacular flower growing operation. Just down the road is the Integratron, where you can enjoy a sound bath and learn about the geomagnetic forces that amplify the earth’s magnetic field and why the structure was built.
A little further down, a dirt road leads to Giant Rock, where, in 1953, aeronautical engineer George Van Tassel had a close encounter with alien beings who commissioned him to build the Integratron.
No matter what you believe, this is a most interesting place to visit when you are out in this desert.
Conclusion
A variety of entertainment, lodging, and dining options are easily accessible and only a short distance apart in the Morongo Basin. Outdoor activities for all skill levels and all ages make the Mojave and the Colorado Desert a fascinating destination.
As a perfect casual getaway weekend or multi-generation vacation, this corner of Southern California is budget-friendly and family appealing.
What is your favorite outdoor adventure?
