Paris: The Final 3 Days of Our European Adventure
The final leg of our 17-day European adventure ended with three days in Paris after two weeks in Amsterdam, Germany, Reims, and Epernay. We left Epernay early on the train and arrived at Gare du Nord by 10 am. We dropped off our luggage at our bnb on Rue La Fayette, A Room in Paris, about five minutes from the train station. Our friendly host, Peet, allowed us to leave our luggage and come back later to check in. We headed immediately to Montmartre, where we had briefly visited on prior trips, but planned to spend more time on this trip. Also on our itinerary for this trip was Notre Dame, Orsay Museum, Laduree, and Champs de Elysees.
We did a lot of walking and exploring on our own, but also went on a Food Tour of Paris’ Montmartre District with The Tour Guy and a walking tour with Guru Tours. Here’s a look at our time in Montmartre, Notre Dame, Orsay Museum, and Champs de Elysees.
Montmartre: Artistic Vibes and Timeless Views
There’s no better place to start our three days in Montmartre, the hilltop district long beloved by artists, poets, and dreamers. Picasso, Van Gogh, Degas, Suzanne Valadon, and Toulouse-Letrec were among the many artists drawn to these winding streets, which seemed to fuel their artistic pursuits. On any given day, Place du Tertre is crowded with dozens of talented, licensed artists who are busy plying their trade sketching and painting portraits, landscapes, and even family pets.
The other huge attraction here at the top of the Montmartre hills is the Basilica of Sacré-Coeur. I never tire of this iconic Paris landmark. This is my third visit to the basilica, and each time I marvel at its majestic presence overlooking the City of Light. It’s free to visit and enjoy, or you can pay a few euros to climb the dome for one of the best panoramic views of Paris – rooftops, spires, and that unmistakable Eiffel Tower silhouette in the distance.
Don’t miss a visit to the Musée de Montmartre, tucked inside a 17th-century house once home to Renoir. The museum gives insight into the local art history, and helps visitors understand the area’s diverse, artistic spirit. Relax in the charming garden, and learn about some of the creative, unique people who made Montmartre their home.
Keep your eyes open for numerous photo ops near Sacre Couer. In addition to the amazing basilica, some of my favorites include the very French cafés Le Consulat, La Maison Rose, Au Lapin Agile Alpin, Le Coq & Fils, and Le Moulin de la Galette with its iconic windmill. There is also a hidden vineyard high up in the hills, Vigne du Clos Montmartre, a working vineyard nestled among quaint streets like Rue Saint-Vincent and Rue des Saules.
Food Tour of Paris’ Montmartre District with The Tour Guy
Our four-hour walking and food tour with The Tour Guy was fun, informative, and full of a diversity of French pastries, cheeses, meats, wine, and other special treats. Our first stop was at a bakery for fresh croissants just past the world famous Moulin Rouge. The flaky buttery layers and chocolate chunks made for a delightful combination to enjoy as we watched skilled bakers making baguettes in the kitchen. At our next stop, we watched crepes being created, with toppings of Cinnamon, Nutella, Fresh Strawberries and Bananas, and other flavorful choices. I tried the Cinnamon and Sugar for mine – hot and delicious!
Next, we walked up the hill to Le Bateau-Lavoir, where a young artist named Picasso lived for a while to join other artists in trendy Montmartre. Our guide explained the history of the area, and our group sat at a table outside on the terrace with wonderful views of Montmartre overlooking the city of Paris. We enjoyed small bites of a cod spread with toast, salad, and snails for the more adventurous eaters served along with our Pierres Blanches Chardonnay. I tried one snail – my first. It was tasty, a bit like a chewy shrimp, and I washed it down with my Chardonnay. I’m glad I tried it, but am in no hurry to have my second snail.
Other stops included getting a box of colorful macarons from Pierre Herme, which we bagged and took with us for a later snack. Our last stop was a wonderful meat and cheese platter with an excellent Gerard Bertrand red blend. It was fun to eat, drink, and chat about our day with our newfound friends in our tour group on the terrace of this cozy Montmartre cafe.
Notre-Dame de Paris: Risen from the Ashes
No trip to Paris is complete without seeing Notre-Dame, the Gothic masterpiece sitting high on the Île de la Cité. Repairs are finally complete from the 2019 fire that destroyed parts of the cathedral, and its grandeur remains breathtaking. Notre Dame is known for its flying buttresses, intricate sculptures, and stained-glass windows throughout its beautiful interior. We were fortunate to attend a performance of Salve Regina by the talented choir at night – be sure to buy tickets in advance if you want to attend this popular event.
Before the performance at Notre Dame, we visited some nearby shops and bookstores. There was a short line at Shakespeare and Company, but we only had to wait about ten minutes to get inside this historic bookstore. We spent about thirty minutes inside exploring the cozy, maze‑like interior crammed with new, used, and antiquarian books, dim reading spaces, and a quiet, creative vibe.
I was intrigued learning about the free Tumbleweed program where aspiring writers can stay overnight in one of the narrow beds tucked amid shelves in exchange for a few hours of bookstore help, reading a book a day, and writing a one‑page autobiography. Where do I sign up?
Musée d’Orsay: A Train Station Turned Art Haven
The Musée d’Orsay houses one of the finest collections of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art in the world, and the setting is as stunning as the paintings and other artwork. We were hosted for a guided tour with The Tour Guy, which helped us understand the history and content of this magnificent train station turned art museum.
The open and grand museum is housed in a former railway station, with its iconic clock windows offering views from the second floor over the Seine River to the Louvre, the city, and Sacre Couer. Inside, you’ll find masterpieces by Van Gogh, Monet, Degas, Renoir, Manet, Cézanne, and other famous artists. Some of the highlights for me included Van Gogh’s Starry Night Over the Rhône, Monet’s dreamy water lilies, and Whistler’s Mother. I was also mesmerized by the realism of Auguste Clésinger’s dramatic marble sculpture Femme piquée par un serpent (1847), better known as Woman Bitten by a Snake.
Brasserie Bellanger: Chic, Affordable French Dining
We were fortunate to find highly rated Brasserie Bellanger a short five-minute walk from our bnb. This popular eatery provides an authentic French dining experience at an affordable price and is friendly, cozy, and hopping. It’s also fairly close to the train station Gare du Nord and to our bnb, so we were pleased to find this culinary gem.
Julie and I both started with the French Onion Soup. The caramelized onions were simmered in rich beef broth with a touch of white wine and topped with a toasted crouton and a very generous portion of bubbling, golden-gratinée cheese. For mains I ordered the excellent Duck with mixed veggies while Julie had the seabass and creamed potatoes. To complete our delicious meal, we shared the Paris Brest, a local favorite. A Paris-Brest is a ring-shaped choux pastry filled with a luscious praline hazelnut-almond cream, topped with slivered almonds and powdered sugar. This tasty pastry was created to celebrate the Paris–Brest–Paris bicycle race, one of the oldest long-distance cycling events in France, first held in 1891.
The Bellanger menu is seasonal and proudly French. Other great menu options include comforting classics like Beef Bourguignon with creamy mashed potatoes, house-made duck pâté and pickles, and a decadent chocolate mousse served in a silver bowl. The large number of happy locals at this neighborhood favorite is a good indication of Bellanger’s reputation for high quality, affordable French cuisine is a friendly, casual atmosphere.
Ladurée: The Sweetest Icon
For a moment of pure indulgence, we decided to stop at Ladurée, the legendary Parisian pâtisserie on Champs de Elysees. When we made reservations at lunchtime, we were pleasantly surprised to find out Laduree, known worldwide for its macarons and decadent desserts, also serves a limited menu of other breakfast items, sandwiches, and salads. The main dining area on the second floor is elegant and impressive, a fitting setting to enjoy their flavorful treats.
Julie ordered the avocado toast and a side salad, and I had the club sandwich with sweet potato fries. It was the perfect lunch to refuel and relax before shopping a bit at Lous Vuitton, Dior, and other shops on the Champs de Elysees. We were also treated to a great view of the Arc de Triomphe just up the street from Laduree. If you want to take a break from sightseeing and shopping, Laduree is a great option for a tasty treat in an elegant setting.
Paris is Waiting for You
Whether you’re people-watching in Montmartre, marveling at Van Gogh’s artwork at the Orsay, or savoring French comfort food at Bellanger, Paris delights on every level.
Thanks to Brasserie Bellanger and The Tour Guy for hosting us during our stay. All opinions are my own.
