Epernay in the Heart of Champagne
After a wonderful time in Amsterdam, Germany, and four fun days in Reims, we took the 20-minute train ride south to Epernay. Like Reims, Epernay is home to some of the top Champagne Houses in the region. Many of these houses line the Avenue de Champagne with several others scattered about. Beneath these streets of Epernay lie over 100 km of chalk cellars holding over 200 million bottles. The Avenue de Champagne has been dubbed the “Champs‑Élysées of Champagne,” and is the city’s most iconic street and major visitor draw.
During our three days in Epernay, we did tours and tastings at five iconic Champagne Houses: Mercier, Alfred Gratien, Jacquinot, Moet & Chandon, and Perrier-Jouet. We also had great food at Chill N Grill and other local cafes and bakeries and walked the streets exploring around every corner of this treasure just an hour from Paris.
Mercier Champagne House
As Julie and I walked into the front doors of Mercier Champagne House, we were greeted by an intricately carved giant oak vat. Once exhibited at the 1889 Exposition Universelle, this highlight of Mercier can hold around 213,000 bottles. We checked in with our guide, who directed us to the back elevators for a ride down to the 18 km of chalk tunnels below. Much to our delight, the elevator ride was much more than just an elevator ride. We were treated to an animated introduction to Mercier, a huge name in the Champagne world.
Eugene Mercier founded the Champagne House in 1858 on Avenue de Champagne. A brilliant businessman, Mercier is credited with pioneering modern champagne operations and marketing innovations. Some of his unique methods include early Champagne films with the Lumière brothers, floating champagne bars in hot-air balloons, and public tastings at World’s Fairs.
One thing that sets Mercier apart is the cellar tour by train. Yes, a miniature train takes visitors through a portion of the vast cellars. It was so cool to relax on the slowly moving train as our wonderful guide narrated information about the bas reliefs and other artwork, machinery, bottling process, and intriguing history of Mercier. The bas reliefs carved by Gustave Navlet were especially impressive.
Mercier offers several curated cellar tours – each includes a descent by panoramic lift, a ride on an automated miniature train through the underground galleries, and a tasting session. We even had a brief tour of the vineyards growing on the grounds, with a view of scenic landscapes and the Champagne Castellane Tower overlooking the town. Now part of LVMH since 1987, Mercier is one of France’s top domestic-selling champagnes, with 576 hectares of vineyards.
We both loved the Mercier tour. The engaging video, the fun train ride, the vineyard visit, the educational exhibits, and the knowledgeable tour guide were all thoroughly entertaining – perfect if you’re curious about Champagne’s production heritage and love immersive tastings.
Alfred Gratien Champagne House
Alfred Gratien Champagne House was founded in 1864 by Alfred Gratien, and was family run for decades before being acquired by Henkell & Co around 2000. Only first-press must is used for its limited production of 300,000 bottles annually. Alfred Gratien does not use steel tanks. Instead, Gratien is one of the few major houses that exclusively use oak barrels, without the malolactic fermentation, to preserve vibrancy.
Our excellent host and guide was Melissa, who was very knowledgeable, friendly, and engaging. We were lucky to have a small group so were able to interact extensively with Melissa, listening to her outstanding description of the history of Gratien, its products, and the process of making these world class champagnes. She answered our many questions, and we loved her honesty, humor, and insight to make this one of our favorite tours in Champagne.
We tried several outstanding champagnes during our tastings. My favorite was the Blanc de Blanc, which was crisp, precise, mineral-driven, and layered with delicate toasty nuances from its long aging in oak barrels. I could see why Alfred Gratien is served in many Michelin-starred establishments and was named among The World’s Most Admired Champagne Brands in 2022.
Jacquinot Champagne House
Jean‑Manuel Jacquinot, son of Jean‑Guy, has served as both cellar master and oenologist for Jacquinot Champagne House since 1998, overseeing winemaking and production. He is assisted by François Nicolet, Jacques’s son-in-law, who handles sales, marketing, and distribution. Julie and I met with Jean-Manuel for a few hours for an intimate tour and tasting at Jacquinot. He is an extremely knowledgeable and friendly man, and we enjoyed learning about the intriguing history and operations of Jacquinot.
The estate traces its roots to the late 18th century, with Pierre Jacquinot establishing the modern operation post-WWI in 1929, followed by the launch of Champagne Jacquinot et Fils with his sons Jacques and Jean‑Guy in 1947. Located at 36 Rue Maurice Cerveaux, the domain moved into Épernay in 1949, and today spans 17 hectares of predominantly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Grapes are still harvested by hand over 10 days in September, and pressing is done using the original 1929 pneumatic press. We explored vats, cellars, and the production process, finishing with tastings that included outstanding Private Cuvée, Blanc de Blancs, and Blanc de Noirs.
It’s good we were wearing comfortable shoes, as there are 106 chalk steps that descend about 20 meters into the cellar – among the deepest in Epernay. Jacquinot is a great example of a smaller boutique Champagne House with a unique history and a devotion and passion for making great Champagne. Thanks to Jean-Manuel for a fabulous tour and tasting.
Moet & Chandon Champagne House
Founded in 1743 by Claude Moët in Épernay, it became Moët & Chandon over the 19th century under Claude-Louis and Jean‑Rémy Moët. Moët & Chandon is the largest Champagne house in the world, with around 28 million bottles annually. About 28 km of tunnels are carved up to 30 meters deep in the cellars below 20 Avenue de Champagne, holding processing facilities and millions of bottles of champagne.
Moet & Chandon owns about 1,190 hectares of vineyards, including extensive holdings across five major Champagne zones: Montagne de Reims, Côte des Blancs, Vallée de la Marne, Sézanne, and Aube. It’s part of the LVMH group since merging with Hennessy (1971) and Louis Vuitton (1987).
We thoroughly enjoyed our tour of Moet & Chandon. Everything was first class, from our wonderful guide to beautiful artwork, miles of tunnels, an intriguing insight into the history and operations, and finishing with a fun and educational tasting. Moet & Chandon Champagne is the centerpiece of Avenue de Champagne, and a must see for anyone visiting Epernay and the Champagne Region.
Perrier-Jouet Champagne House
Perrier‑Jouët is a prestigious Champagne house founded in 1811 in Épernay by Pierre‑Nicolas Perrier and his wife Rose‑Adélaïde Jouët. The couple’s shared passion for nature and the arts shaped the House’s elegant, floral-driven style – especially its focus on Chardonnay. The very popular Japanese anemone motif is a widely recognized symbol of this highly regarded Champagne House. In addition to fine Champagne, Perrier-Jouet maintains a strong bond with the arts, housing one of Europe’s largest private Art Nouveau collections within Maison Belle Époque.
Perrier-Jouet produces about three million bottles annually, drawing from 65 hectares of vineyards, including Grand Crus in Cramant, Avize (Chardonnay) and Montagne de Reims (Pinot Noir). There have only been eight Cellar Masters in two centuries, with Séverine Frerson serving as the first female Cellar Master since 2020. In addition to great champagne, Perrier-Jouet is know for its extensive artwork. Over 200 pieces by Art Nouveau masters—Gallé, Lalique, Majorelle, Guimard—are on display, making it a must-visit for art and Champagne lovers
We stopped at Cellier Belle Époque for a glass of bubbly to relax and enjoy the artwork and ambience. Julie had a glass of Rose Champagne while I opted for a Blanc de Blanc. We enjoyed the hanging bottles above the impressive bar, the colorful jeweled tree, and other artwork throughout the tasting area. They also offer a small menu for lunch or snacks, and the gift shop is fun to browse and shop.
Grill N Chill Restaurant
Grill N Chill is a highly rated restaurant in the heart of Epernay at 35 Rue du Général Leclerc. David Djuric and his family have been involved with a variety of restaurants through the years, and bring their collective talents to Grill N Chill, specializing in a contemporary French menu. Popular dishes include grilled meats, seafood, burgers, and seasonal dishes with specialties like lamb chops, sea bream, steaks, tenderloin, risottos, and desserts like Crème Brulé and profiteroles.
We sat by the window in this casual but elegant restaurant. David, who runs the restaurant with his family, was very pleasant and efficient. The restaurant was quickly filling up at this early hour just after 7:00, and they were already getting busy. Despite being busy, David invited us to go back to the kitchen to meet his family, who are all very friendly and gracious.
Julie started with a Château du Donjon Rosé while I selected a Do Ferreiro Albarino from the excellent wine list. For our mains, Julie enjoyed the sea bream while I ordered the sea bass with risotto. The seafood was fresh and tasty and cooked just right, and the risotto complemented my fish perfectly. For dessert we shared a delicious profiterole, puff pastry served with ice cream and covered with slivered almonds, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream. It was delicious, and a great ending to a wonderful meal.
If you’re in Épernay looking for a relaxed yet refined evening with excellent grilled dishes, fresh seafood, and a good wine/champagne list, Grill ’n Chill is a solid pick – especially if you’re traveling with a dog. Because of its popularity, we suggest you book ahead and go early for dinner to ensure a table.
Sacre Bistro, Stelvio, and Bakeries
In addition to Grill N Chill, we enjoyed several of the other fine restaurants and bakeries in Epernay. We had fabulous dinners at Sacre Bistro and Stelvio’s, both short walks from our bnb. Several outstanding bakeries are open daily, with fresh baked breads, croissants, and other confectionaries.
Great Champagne, Food, and History in Epernay
Along with Reims, Epernay is in the heart of the wonderful Champagne Region and a great base to explore and learn more about this amazing area of France. With so many great Champagne Houses, restaurants, and museums within easy reach by foot or a short car ride, Epernay is a must for lovers of great food and Champagne.
