Story and photos by Julie Diebolt Price (unless otherwise indicated)
The stunning Northern California coast of Mendocino County draws travelers from far and wide. The rugged coastline, breathtaking scenery, and friendly locals make this destination memorable.
Famous for the filming location of Murder, She Wrote, a television show in the 80s and 90s starring Angela Lansbury, Mendocino became the fictional Cabot Cove, Maine and many local residents played parts in the show.
Glass Beach in Fort Bragg, just up the road from Mendocino, was a former city trash dump from 1906 to 1967. The Pacific Ocean transformed this trash over the years and deposited beautiful sea glass in a rainbow of colors on the beach.
While I was hosted for some of these activities, the opinions are my own.
Where is Mendocino County?
A few hours north of San Francisco, the closest airport is Santa Rosa. Little River Airport, a small municipal airport about five miles away, also serves the area. Enjoy the magnificent coast if you drive from San Francisco north on Highway 1 or south from Leggett. From Highway 101, two curvy roads will deposit you on the main road through town.
Click on any of the photos below to go to the Mendocino PhotoJournal slideshow.
Places to Play
Willits
In the heart of Mendocino County, Willits is the Gateway to the Redwoods. The Skunk Train operates a round trip scenic journey into the Noyo River Canyon. Learn the history of redwood forest harvesting between Fort Bragg and Willits on the Wolf Tree Turn.
Anderson Valley
Known for Alsatian varietals, Pinot Noir, and sparkling wines, this sparsely populated valley sports a vibrant art scene. Artists and artisans open their studios annually for their signature art tour. Call ahead to schedule your visit at other times of year.
Rebecca Johnson, a distinguished artist who carves stone, paints, and sculpts, can be found at her Anderson Valley restored barn in Navarro.
Fort Bragg Skunk Train
The Skunk Train has been carrying passengers since 1885 through the ancient redwood forest. It transported families and workers to logging camps in the groves. The Skunk Train earned the moniker because “you could smell them before you could see them.” The pungent odor was created because they used gasoline to power the engines and pot-bellied stoves burning crude oil to warm the passengers.
A 75-minute, 7-mile, train ride on the historic Pudding Creek Express, takes you to the Glen Blair Junction and returns. Board the train at Fort Bragg Depot for morning and afternoon trips.
Fort Bragg Rail Bikes
A new (about two years old) and expanding excursion, Skunk Train Rail Bikes, is the ultimate in entertainment. You can peddle or use the on-board electric power. The custom-built bikes, designed for two, ride on four train wheels and whisk you silently along the tracks. We took the Pudding Creek excursion between the Skunk Train scheduled runs. Tents and tables at Glen Blair Junction, and a moderate hiking trail allow for picnics and a little exercise before heading back to the Fort Bragg station.
Forest Bathing
Shinshin, the forest bathing service that I booked from Brewery Gulch Inn, is an integrated mind and body experience. It’s the basis for Japanese medicine, preventive health care, and healing.
We began the experience on the Pygmy Forest Discovery Trail, in the Van Damme State Park. A ¼ mile wheelchair-accessible platform gets you up close to the stunted cypress trees. Several displays teach about the rare environment and soil. Giving way to the mighty redwood forest with easy-to-navigate trails, we spent a pleasant hour using our five senses to experience the forest.
Point Cabrillo Light Station
Like many people, I have a fascination with lighthouses. The Point Cabrillo Light Station lives up to all expectations. The Lighthouse Museum is open daily to visitors, as well as the Assistant Lightkeeper’s House Museum and Marine Science Exhibit.
Farmer’s Market
I like to visit local farmer’s markets when I travel. While getting the best of fresh produce, meeting the vendors and trying their products or services is a great way to get to know the area. The Mendocino Farmer’s Market, held May through October on Fridays, has plants, handmade chocolates, a knife sharpening expert, and more. They are certified and proud to support local food and farms.
Botanical Garden
A sizeable lily pond, reminiscent of Monet’s Garden in Giverny, France, greets visitors at Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens. This 47-acre garden includes canyons, wetlands, coastal bluffs, and a closed-cone pine forest. Open all year, be sure to check the open hours and obtain advanced tickets.
Places to Stay
Little River Inn
Staying at Little River Inn is like visiting your grandparent’s cottage. Serving the Mendocino Coast for the last 80 years, this family-owned inn welcomes families and their pets and offers rooms for all budgets. Cally Dym, the Fifth Generation Innkeeper, and her husband Marc Dym, the Executive Chef, carry on the family tradition as stewards of the land. Their hospitality is unmatched.
The Victorian-style inn, originally built in 1853 by Silas Coombs, was a two-story motel. Several Hollywood stars stayed here while filming movies in Mendocino. The Inn saw the likes of Jane Wyman and Ronald Reagan, James Dean, and Jonathan Winters in the 40s, 50s, and 60s.
The grounds include an Audubon-certified golf course with a stunning ocean view, lighted championship tennis courts, as well as day spa services, and a dining room for your food and beverage pleasure. I could hardly leave the rocking chairs on our balcony. The sweeping ocean view, the incredibly comfortable bed, deep soaking tub in the bathroom, the fireplace with sitting area, and other amenities in the room made a quiet respite that I didn’t want to leave.
Brewery Gulch Inn
Overlooking Smuggler’s Cove on the rugged Mendocino Coast, Brewery Gulch Inn has the front door thrown open to welcome their guests. The Inn is part of the original 10-acre farmstead of a Mendocino pioneer in the lumber industry, Homer Barton. Rich, dark redwood paneling adorning the walls is the first thing you see in the Lobby. Eco-salvaged from the muddy Big River almost 150 years ago, it is guiltless virgin redwood.
The Great Room is a gathering place for meals, art, entertainment, and refreshments. A four-sided glass and steel fireplace with a large basket of chopped wood was fabricated by a local ship builder.
All but one of the 14 rooms features an ocean view. The amenities in our corner room, Raven, included a private balcony with French doors, a writing desk, a king feather bed, club chairs in front of the fireplace, and a well-appointed bathroom.
The proprietors, Guy and Sarah Pacurar, work hard to protect the environment. The Inn earned the Green Hotels Association certification. The ponds and grounds are conducive to plant and animal life with natural rock filters and wetlands restoration. Brewery Gulch Inn has also earned awards from Travel + Leisure, TripAdvisor, AAA, and Condé Nast.
Places to Eat
While we were in Mendocino, the highlights of our dining experiences centered around the inns where we stayed.
Little River Inn
Dinner is available seven days a week from 5 to 8 pm at Little River Inn. A fairytale covered, tented, and heated courtyard make dinnertime special. Meals at Little River Inn are lovingly provisioned and prepared from local suppliers of fresh fish and seafood.
Our reserved table was nestled in a cozy corner of the tent. Our dinner began with handmade charcuterie freshly cured by the Chef de Cuisine, Jason Azevedo. My husband and I enjoyed delectable braised beef and fresh fish for dinner.
Breakfast is available seven days a week from 8 to 9:30 am and is delivered to your door or can be picked up at the front desk if you stay in off-property rooms.
A glass table for two in our spacious accommodations made the meal that was delivered to our room a delightful experience.
Brewery Gulch Inn
Unique to the Brewery Gulch Inn, the Executive Chef, Stephen Smith, prepares a selection of appetizers delivered in room-specific Mendo Boxes at the Evening Wine Hour. Dietary restrictions are considered for this light dinner. Morning and evening offerings for the guests feature local farmers and vendors’ organically grown fruit and vegetables, free-range poultry and livestock, as well as fresh-caught fish.
We arrived on Mother’s Day, and they prepared a special dinner of prime rib followed by exquisite Red Velvet Cake.
Our breakfast was remarkable. My husband, who had the Strawberry-Yuzu Cheesecake Pancakes, said it was the best breakfast he’s ever had. I had to agree after he let me have a bite of the Millionaire’s Bacon. I started breakfast with the house made Callebaut Belgian drinking chocolate. It is a rich, chocolate drink that will spoil you for any other hot chocolate you might have.
The Mango & Key Lime Lassi, made with key lime and mango coulis, yogurt, and cardamom is fresh and yummy.
Final Thoughts
This secluded coastline in Mendocino County is a gem with great places to play, stay, and eat. While this was not my first visit to Mendocino, it was certainly the most memorable. And I will unquestionably go again.
