Stories and photos by Jim Thomas (unless otherwise indicated)
Hello Friends,
My trip to Havana, Cuba continued. Our tour group arrived at Terminal 3 of The Jose’ Marti International Airport in Havana. After retrieving our luggage, clearing immigration, and customs, we boarded our tour bus and were formally introduced to our two tour guides and driver. Graham was an American expatriate who worked for Insight Cuba and Pablo was a guide who worked for the local tourist agency in Havana. Graham explained the schedule of activities for the day and the usual procedures for the tour.
Soon, we departed the terminal area in our air-conditioned bus and proceeded to the local community known as Miramar. This was in the southwestern part of Havana. As we drove through this area, I was amazed by how similar Havana was to other large cities in Central America. The buildings were not much different than the cities in Panama or Costa Rica. The large amount of traffic was similar to those countries, too. The only difference was the Havana traffic consisted mostly of cars built before 1959. Many of these cars showed their age. However, occasionally, we saw classic cars that were in pristine condition. Just outside that airport, I saw a beautiful 1959 Chevy Impala convertible that would have been the envy of any collector in America. Immediately, I realized that the stories about an abundance of classic cars in Cuba were true. Throughout the entire tour, I found numerous examples that validated those stories.
As we drove through the streets of Havana toward the El Vedado neighborhood, I was struck with several impressions. There was a total lack of military presence. I didn’t see any pictures of either Fidel or Raul Castro. There was not an abundance of political posters extolling the revolution. Frankly, people were going about their daily business as they would in Bogota or Buenos Aires. Again, my preconceived notion of a society openly oppressed by a dominant communist regime was dispelled. I was initially, pleasantly surprised. However, I was later informed of several subtle controls by the government.
The Plaza of the Revolution
We drove through the main thoroughfares of Havana until we arrived at our first destination, The Plaza of the Revolution, which was located in the Vedado neighborhood. The Plaza has been the scene of many celebrations over the years from the visit by Pope John Paul II to various May Day celebrations and numerous other gatherings. It was a huge open area surrounded by many high-end homes and government buildings. At one end of the Plaza, on a hill, was the Monument to Jose Marti. They say that this tall monument was the highest point in Havana. This revolutionary and poet was one of the main leaders of the Cuban fight for Independence against Spanish rule in the late 1800s.
Opposite from the statue of Jose Marti was the building that housed the Ministry of Interior. On the windowless side of the huge building was a gigantic etching of Che Guevara, the late communist revolutionary. Alongside this mural were the words, “Always Toward Victory.” On the Ministry of Communication, the building next to the Ministry of Interior, was an equally large etching of Commandant Camilo Cienfuegos. Cienfuegos was a general and hero during the revolution led by Fidel Castro against the Batista Regime. What was notably absent were any murals or etchings of Fidel or Raul Castro.
Cuban Classic Cars
In addition to the Plaza of Revolution being a central point for various celebrations, it was also a great place to hire a classic car for a spin around the neighborhood. I saw beautiful cars such an Oldsmobile, a Buick, a Pontiac, and a Chevy with their drivers eager to be hired for an hour or more. I was amazed how these old cars were so well maintained in a tropical, seaside environment. I could not see even a speck of rust on any of these gleaming autos. I planned not to leave Cuba before I had my own ride in one of these classic beauties.
Cuban Cigars
Boarding our bus, we were informed of our next destination, The Partagas Cigar Factory. This was a 4 story building, with a classical Spanish façade, where various cigars such as the famous Montecristo and other fine brands were made. Arriving there, we were directed to climb the stairs to the fourth floor of this old building that was not air conditioned. Once at the top level, we watched, first hand, dozens and dozens of people sitting at tables rolling different types of cigars. Unfortunately, we were not permitted to take photos. As they rolled the cigars, the finished product was placed in a template that held ten cigars. When the template was filled, a cover was placed on it and the cigar roller sat on the template while he or she rolled the next group of cigars. Other templates were placed in presses to help shape and form the cigars.
The entire floor of this huge building was filled with people sitting at tables and rolling cigars. There was one small section where new employees were being trained to do this job. Apparently, each employee had a quota. The shop’s atmosphere seemed serious with everyone intent on making their quota. There was no music and conversation seemed to be kept at a minimum. The fact that there was no air conditioning in the building made this a rather unpleasant place to work. In my opinion, this truly was a sweat shop. Yet, hundreds of people were working here and doing a good job. This place was extremely warm in September. I could only imagine what it was like in July! OSHA and a union’s focus on working conditions was nonexistent, at least at this factory.
At the Partagas Cigar Factory, I got my first lesson in Cuban economics. These employees made a small wage. The exact amount was irrelevant because to try to compare it with wages in America would have been like trying to compare apples and chairs. Yet, what I found interesting was that each employee was allowed to keep 5 cigars per day. Those cigars were sold to help supplement the employee’s meager income. This concept led to the discussion about an economy that allowed pilferage by employees as a common cost of doing business. Apparently, this concept was widely accepted throughout the country.
At the end of the tour, we were shown the various cigar bands and products that were made at this factory. Then, we were escorted to the factory store to purchase some really fresh cigars. U. S. Customs, permitted each person to bring back $100 of cigars and/or rum duty free. We were allowed to bring back a total of $400 of duty-free goods such as art and souvenirs. While I didn’t smoke and hoped never to start again, I had enough orders from friends and neighbors to easily fill my $100 cigar limit. This was when I wished I had converted more money at the airport. My cigar purchases depleted most of my supply of Cuban currency until I reached the hotel. Oh well, lesson learned.
La Moneda Cubana
After visiting the cigar factory, it was time for lunch. We boarded the bus and drove to the Cathedral Square, which was located in Old Town Havana. This area was declared a World’s Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO in 1982 based on its historical and architectural values. Within this neighborhood was La Moneda Cubana, our destination for lunch.
It should be noted that most businesses in Cuba are state owned. However, the relaxing of ownership restrictions have occurred since Raul Castro had succeeded his brother, Fidel. Privately owned restaurants known as paladars were immerging with more frequency. La Moneda Cubana was one of those paladars. The owners were definitely proud of what they had accomplished.
La Moneda Cubana was located in a former 4 story house that was built in 1862. The first floor was used for offices and storage areas. The remaining upper floors were used for various dinning rooms. Of course, we had the rooftop restaurant which meant walking up about 5 flights of stairs. There were no elevators and, again, no air conditioning. That being said, the view from the restaurant was well worth the climb. Also, being on the rooftop, we were able to enjoy a gentle breeze that substituted for the air conditioning. Our tour group had the rooftop to ourselves. This made a delightful venue for dinning and for getting to know the other members of our tour group. This was my first meal in Havana and I didn’t know what to expect. However, my concerns and fears were easily dismissed when they took our orders. I had the chicken with rice and a salad. It was truly delicious. We couldn’t get Pepsi, Coke, or Budweiser due to the embargo from America, but Heinekens was available. A Cuban diet cola that tasted similar to Tab was also available. I stuck with bottled water.
To complement the meal, musical entertainment was provided by Trio Los Astros, a combo that provided a broad spectrum of Cuban and Latin Music. The female singer really enjoyed entertaining us and encouraged audience participation. What could have been a quiet half hour lunch turned into a 90-minute dinner show that was really fun and totally entertaining! A Cultural Exchange
Remember, our “purpose” for being in Cuba was for a cultural exchange. To be allowed a visit to Cuba, one had to have such a purpose. The final part of the dining experience was a presentation by students who were enrolled in the La Moneda Cubana Training Program for Young Entrepreneurs. This was an internationally recognized, award winning program that trained young students in their late teens and early twenties, who had finished their formal schooling. The 3-year program offered training in nearly all aspects of catering and culinary endeavors. In addition to the professional career training, the program included training in general knowledge subjects such as writing, spelling, Cuban culture and history, marketing, accounting, and practical application of English and French. Graduates of this program were prepared to be self-employed in the catering, culinary, or the hospitality industry. This program had already graduated hundreds of new entrepreneurs. It appeared that the basic roots of capitalism were being developed and grown in Communist Cuba.
At the end of our meal, the five students who had been waiting on our table gave a presentation about their program and themselves. The presentation was in English and very understandable. I was truly impressed by the students’ enthusiasm for the program and their bright outlook for their future. They knew it was a real chance and they were taking it. Our entire tour group was impressed by these young ladies and gentlemen and the fact that Cuba was emerging with such a forward thinking program. I couldn’t have thought of a better way to enjoy my first meal in Cuba.
Cathedral Square in Havana
We spent the afternoon walking off the full meal through the streets of Old Havana toward the Cathedral Square. There, we admired the architecture of the various buildings, especially the Cathedral, which for political reasons over its history, became a combination of Baroque and Neo-Classical architecture. The warm afternoon sun and cloudless sky made it a perfect day for a walk along the cobblestone streets and for visiting the various shops and vendors around the square.
Birthplace of the Mojito
Walking down one of the side streets off the Cathedral Square, I came across La Bodeguita Del Medio. It was a bar, and I use that term loosely, that was frequented by Ernest Hemmingway. The owners claimed that this was the birthplace of the Mojito, one of Hemmingway’s favorite drinks. The bar, more like a dive, was a colorful place that had three solid walls and a wide entrance where the fourth wall should have been. Inside were numerous items, supposedly signed by Hemmingway, that served to support the claim that this once was one of his haunts. At any rate, the tourists seemed to believe that claim as evidenced by the way they were flocking to the bar and ordering mojitos.
By the time we returned to the bus, it was time to go to our hotel, The Melia Cohiba. This was an excellent 4-star hotel that was located off the Malecon Highway, which was the scenic drive along the ocean. It was a beautiful hotel that was good enough for the Prime Minister of Japan, who was staying there the at the same time as our group. Also, the hotel was located next to the former Riviera Hotel. Although, it currently wasn’t in service, the Riviera had an infamous history. Remember in the movie Godfather II, when Myer Lansky met with all the mob bosses in Havana? The real meeting took place at this same Riviera Hotel. The cover story was that they all came down to Havana to see a Frank Sinatra Concert at the Riviera. Anyway, we certainly couldn’t complain about the hotel’s location.
Learning to Light a Cuban Cigar
After checking into the hotel, we were given an opportunity to unpack, freshen-up, and change for dinner. At 7 PM we boarded the bus for a delightful dinner at El Figaro in Barber’s Alley. Again, we enjoyed another excellent meal. The evening’s entertainment or “cultural experience” was an exhibition on the proper way to light a cigar. The procedure was almost a ritual when done properly. Almost everyone in the group took the opportunity to practice what they had learned. However, since I quit smoking and drinking 31 years ago, I chose not to participate. The last thing I ever wanted to do was take up THAT habit again! I was concerned that a couple of puffs on a cigar would send me back down that road. I respectfully declined the offer to light-up. However, the remainder of the group, both men and women, really seemed to enjoy a good Havana cigar!
We returned to the hotel around 10 PM. Since we had begun the day in Miami at 4:00 AM, most people were really tired, including me. We had seen and done a lot this day. It didn’t take much convincing for any of us to call it a night. After all, we had a full day ahead of us in the morning.
I am eager to tell you about our interesting, informative, and fun-filled Friday in Havana. That will be in my next segment.
