Stories and photos by Gail Clifford (unless otherwise indicated)
Dublin’s History
“Irish history is an argument without end”
– Tommy Graham
Dublin, the capital and largest city of Ireland, established on the banks of the River Liffey and the lesser known River Puddle, more than 1000 years ago, spans both centuries and miles of history. It’s bordered by the Irish Sea and the Wicklow Mountains range.
The name, itself, derives from the Irish words Dubh and linn, meaning “black pool,” referring to the dark tidal pool that was the River Puddle.
The Celts and St. Patrick
More than 10% of the total U.S. population self-identifies as having Irish ancestry. So, the American fascination with the Emerald Isle comes as no surprise.
The Celts were not the original inhabitants of Ireland. Human occupation of this area has been traced back nearly 12,000 years to the Mesolithic period era, the small band of the stone age that included the hunter-gatherers. The Celts didn’t arrive until the Iron Age, about 500B.C. Tommy Graham, Editor of Ireland’s HISTORY magazine and the fastest walking and fastest talking guide you’ll find explains, “At that stage, the whole of western Europe was Celtic.”
Christianity came to Ireland in the middle of the 5th century by St. Patrick, a Romanized Celtic Briton kidnapped twice from his home in England prior to returning voluntarily to convert the masses. Despite legend, there’s no evidence that there were ever snakes in Ireland. But he is given credit for having “driven them out.” The three most famous symbols of Ireland, the green Shamrock, the harp, and the Celtic cross all have a St. Patrick affiliation.
Ireland and Great Britain
According to Tommy, Dublin was labeled “Hibernia” by the Romans, meaning “land of winter.” Ireland was never conquered by the Romans, who, “having visited once, took one look at the weather, and assuming it was always this bad, left forever.”
For the past 800 years, Ireland had been under conquest from Great Britain. Begun under King Henry II in the 1170s, the British soldiers became native, inter-marrying and learning the local language. “We’ve always had this tendency to absorb or subvert outsiders,” Tommy explains.
King Henry VIII began the second conquest of Ireland with colonization that ultimately allowed Oliver Cromwell to pay off his army. When Henry VIII broke with the Roman Catholic Church, the two Cathedrals in Dublin, Christ Church and St. Patrick’s, became Church of England. Thus began 500 years of Catholic oppression. No Catholic churches in Ireland are more than 250 years old, because of penal laws, anti-Catholic laws enacted from this time, the last of these penal, anti-Catholic laws were abolished in 1829. The Catholic Emancipation resulted from the agitation of Daniel O’Connell, referred to as “the Great Liberator,” and namesake of the wide thoroughfare in Dublin 1.
After several failed rebellions, Ireland finally became independent with the Revolution of 1922. In the south, 26 counties formed the Republic of Ireland whilst the six northeast counties remain under U.K. jurisdiction (more to come with Brexit).
Dublin Today
Dublin is a vibrant, active, growing city under constant construction, six days a week.
Ireland’s economy remains strong, with a 5.8% GDP increase from 2018, making us the fastest growing economy in the EU. Agriculture, pharmaceuticals (Viagra is 3% GDP), Dublin ports, Ireland’s public companies, educational institutions and hospitals contribute to this. This combination has led the push towards Dublin as a “smart city.”
Dublin has become home to several multi-national corporations, including high-tech sectors, Facebook, Google and financial services. And tourism remains a big draw. This past year, rents in Dublin exceeded those for similar properties in Paris for the first time in history.
Getting Around
Dublin is separated into 24 “postal codes.” Odd numbers are to the north of the River Liffey. Even numbers are to the south. Dublin 1 and Dublin 2, the two “downtown” districts have a long-standing competitive spirit. Dublin 2 is considered “posh.” The real estate is certainly the most expensive in the city.
The simplest way to get around Dublin traffic is public transit. Lyft and Uber aren’t available here. Private taxis are (download My Taxi’s new app FREE NOW before you go).
From the airport, if you’re traveling with just a carry on, take the AirLink (under €15 round trip) to your accommodations. If you travel with your family or a lot of luggage, it will cost you about €40 to take a taxi one way to center city. Once in town, take the bus, the Luas (tram), or DART (train). The Dublin GO card, available from train and bus offices, is valid for 1-day, 3-day and 7-day visits. The Luas requires a separate green card for tap on tap off ease of use and discount for the tram. It’s a very walk-able city as well.
Weather in Dublin
Dublin’s climate is mild and changeable with abundant rainfall. January and February are the coldest months of the year, average 40F, and July and August are the warmest months of the year, average 60sF.
“In Ireland, many are cold, but few are frozen.”
– Tommy Graham
15 Top Things to Do in Dublin
Definitions of play in Dublin can vary widely. Whether you walk around, sit at a pub in Temple Bar people watching, catch a game (check out hurling), visit museums, churches, historical attractions, or one of the local tours, or attend a play, comedy show, or symphony, the options continue.
Trinity College Dublin
Book of Kells
Guinness Storehouse
Jameson Distillery Bow St.
Hop On / Hop Off Bus
EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum
GPO Witness History Visitor Centre
Glasnevin Cemetery Museum & Guided Tour
Christ Church Cathedral
St. Patrick’s Cathedral
Dublinia
Dublin Writer’s Museum
Jeannie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum
Little Museum of Dublin
Dublin Castle
Dublin’s Surprising Nature
Dublin is blessed with an abundance of parks and nature space that allows year-round active adventures. Whether it’s the expected space of St. Stephen’s Green, the “Central Park” of Dublin, or the hidden space as the garden behind Dublin Castle with entrance to the Chester Beatty Library (premiere religious artifacts museum in the world), you’ll be amazed.
Several central gardens belong only to the owners of the homes around the square, so take advantage of those you can enter.
In St. Stephen’s Green, visit the swans whose ancestors were the cause of a halt in fighting for an hour a day during the 1917 Rebellion. They needed to be fed. Or head over to Merrion Square, visit the bejeweled statue of Oscar Wilde and the War Memorial.
Over in Dublin 1, in front of the Hugh Lane Gallery and Writer’s Museum, visit the fountain and statues in memorial of those that lost their lives during the rebellions and revolution.
The Dublin Castle space is, perhaps, the most surprising as high, protective walls completely block the view of this wide open oval that includes the Garda Memorial, an exhibit hall and the entrance to the Chester Beatty Library. Take a book or a picnic while the sun shines. Or get out in the brief rain for a breath of fresh air. It helps settle the brain and heal the soul.
Most people don’t realize that Dublin has five beaches. While few sunbathe with the cooler temperatures, they are beautiful places to walk and hike. When you have the chance to take a cruise of Northern Europe or Russia, try to start or finish in Dublin and add a few days in this wonderful city.
Trinity College – Dublin
Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university, was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I of England for two main reasons. To train administrators for expanding colony in Ireland and to train religious ministers for newly established protestant faith Church of Ireland. Trinity College, with Oxford and Cambridge, remains the “Ivy League” of Europe.
The Book of Kells, a luminous illustrated manuscript of the Gospels of Matthew, Mark, Luke and John is the most visited attraction on campus and a primary reason for many tourists to make the journey.
Dublin Breweries and Distilleries
Famous Irish breweries include Guinness, Smithwicks and Harp Lager. Distilleries include:
Roe & Co. (family that saved Christ Church Cathedral), Teeling Whiskey Distillery, Dublin Liberties Distillery, Jameson Distillery Bow St. and Pearse Lyons Distillery.
Museums and the Arts in Dublin
Dublin’s national museums are free to enter. The National Museum of Ireland, The Science Gallery (in Trinity College), the National Gallery of Art, the Hugh Lane Gallery, and the Irish Museum of Modern Art offer modern and historic art. The Hugh Lane even moved an artist’s studio en toto as part of their exhibit.
EPIC, The Irish Emigration Museum, voted Europe’s Leading Tourist Attraction explores the emigration that occurred around the potato famine and beyond.
Sports
Sports play an important role in Irish life. Ask a Dubliner about what team s/he supports can turn into a disagreement, so be cautious. Everyone has a team they root for on the weekend.
Dublin boasts five of Ireland’s top Gaelic football clubs. The Irish national soccer team also trains in Dublin. Other sports include hurling, camogie, horse racing, show jumping, greyhound racing, basketball, motorsport, boxing, hockey, cricket, rowing and rugby.
Dublin Zoo, Botanic Gardens and Grafton Street
The Dublin Zoo, in Phoenix Park, is one of Dublin’s most popular attractions. Established and designed by Decimus Burton, it opened in 1831. The zoo describes its role as “conservation, study, and education.” Admission prices are lower if purchased online in advance. You can reach it by Dublin bus.
The National Botanic Gardens of Ireland, a premier scientific institution located in Glasnevin, are famous for the restored glasshouses and large collection. Entry is free.
Grafton Street is a pedestrian street filled with street performers, shops, flower stalls, and people watching.
STAY: Hotels in Dublin
Hotel prices are so high, many people opt to use AirBnB or Home Away. Consider it, especially if you’re traveling with more than two people. Having access to kitchen facilities helps, though the food has improved so much from the days of “fried fish and mushy peas” you’ll do well either way.
If budget is not a concern, the highest recommendations must go to the luxury 5-star Shelbourne Hotel. Their two-bedroom, two-bath, living room, dining room, Princess Grace suite goes for €6k/night, off season, and, with private butler, you will be treated like a queen, or princess. Several suites are named for famous personalities that have stayed at the hotel. Their other guest rooms and well-appointed suites keep you in the center of the Dublin action, overlooking St. Stephen’s Green. They have an outstanding spa with fitness center as well as restaurant and lounge. Their timeless elegance and style befit a 200-year old establishment. They host sports teams before local games which makes the area even more festive.
The 5-star Merrion Hotel prides itself on more understated elegance. The doorman still has top hat and tails, but the cozy fires that welcome you and the lounge where you start your Art Tea feel more familial. The art collection at this hotel remains the largest private one of any hotel. Their pastry chef uses the art as inspiration for decadent desserts. The art influence carries over to their 123 guest rooms and 19 suites. They are decorated in the same color palette as the Front Hall’s Irish Landscapes painted by Paul Henry.
For more budget-friendly options, consider the Dublin City Hotel, just north of Trinity College but south of the River Liffey. Its 27 guest rooms may be available for an off-season rate as low as $61/night before taxes and fees. During high season, it’s more likely to be $200/night.
If you choose an AirBnB, staying in the Dublin 1 or Dublin 2 sections allows for easiest access to local attractions and restaurants.
Great Food and Drinks in Dublin
Gone are the days where the only food available is fried fish and mushy peas. Award winning restaurants abound.
Art Tea at the 5-star Merrion Hotel is a sumptuous delight. From the sandwiches to the cakes and scones, the clotted cream, raspberry jam and yummy lemon curd, each was carefully balanced by our choice of teas from black and woodsy (the Pu Erh tastes like it’s good for you) to white with silver tips that “smells like a bride.”
The Ivy of Dawson Street, located in Dublin 2 north of St. Stephen’s Green, has a menu that covers everything from Irish classics to continental cuisine. Locally inspired dishes, like Dublin Bay prawns and Dungarvan oysters, remain popular with those who love shellfish, while meat-lovers find steak tartare with Dubliner whiskey, and chicken Milanese. Ideally situated to feast before or after a show, The Ivy’s art deco décor is sure to make you smile.
For excellent bar food, try The River Bar in Dublin 2, just south of the River Liffey. Ask your server for best picks or choose your own. Go for the burger or a Guinness pie, or the server favored club sandwich. Their crispy bacon potato skin are delicious served with a sweet chili sauce. The meringue dessert with cream goes really well with the chocolate brownie. You’re unlikely to go home hungry.
Kilkenny Shop and Restaurant is a popular stop for all tourists their first time in Dublin. Shop, browse, then go upstairs, pick up a tray and move cafeteria style to pick up your protein, salad and veg. Reasonable prices for good food leaves that much more to shop with.
Thai Orchid across from Trinity College offers good meals fast. The chicken and rice dish can be spiced to your specifications. The curry and rice combination is the perfect mid-day break to give you the energy to continue your exploration.
Conclusion
Whether you’re in Dublin for a reason, a season, or a lifetime, there’s so much to see and do. And when you’re ready for a break from the city, go and visit Skerries Mills or Dalkey, an easy day trip by DART, with more history and friendly people to meet.
Dublin has been named Europe’s friendliest city for good reason. Grab a pint, strike up a conversation and settle in for the experience of a lifetime.
