After our first day exploring Stueben County, our second day in the Finger Lakes brought us to Chemung County. We soared over the countryside at Harris Hill at the National Soaring Museum and visited the amazing Woodlawn National Cemetery and the John W. Jones Museum. We also learned about Mark Twain’s connection to the area, and had wonderful meal at the Hilltop Inn.
Mark Twain’s Elmira
Elmira is known for being the home and final resting place of Mark Twain. Twain wrote The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, The Adventures of Tom Sawyer, and several other classics in his study overlooking the Chemung River. His octagonal study pictured below was moved from its original location at the nearby Quarry Farm to its current location on the Elmira College campus. There is also a small Mark Twain exhibit located in adjacent Cowles Hall on campus. The gravesites for Mark Twain and his family are located in the Woodlawn Cemetery.
National Soaring Museum near Elmira
After a rainy morning canceled our plans, the skies cleared in the afternoon, giving us the opportunity to soar above the hills around Elmira at Harris Hill. Learning about the history of motorless flight, I was amazed at the extent and depth of the story presented at the National Soaring Museum. This museum offers full-sized and scaled-down models of dozens of gliders used in the past, including an extensive representation of gliders that performed monumental transportation tasks in war situations.
For my 20-minute soaring adventure, I was given a safety brief and a description of what I was about to experience. The lead motorized plane would tow the glider I was in off Harris Hill, and up to an altitude of 2,000 feet. Then I would disengage the rope, and the pilot and I would rely on updrafts to remain airborne. The unique geography of this area made for updrafts as the winds hit the ridges and rose, enabling the glider to remain aloft for hours.
We flew over the area past the Elmira Airport, passing open fields, forests, rivers, a drive-in theater, farmland, and the scenic countryside. The skilled pilot kept us aloft for 20 minutes, and could have continued to soar for much longer, relying on the updrafts. The calm sense of flying without an engine, the surrounding quiet, and the thrill of flight was an experience I will always remember. Check out my short video of my soaring flight at the National Soaring Museum.
Woodlawn National Cemetery in Elmira
The Woodlawn National Cemetery is located within the grounds of the Woodlawn Cemetery in Elmira, New York. This distinct section of the cemetery is dedicated to the memory of soldiers who died in and around the time of the Civil War. Included is a section of almost 3,000 Confederate soldiers who died while interred at the Elmira Prison. Over 12,000 Confederate prisoners were kept at Elmira Prison, and many of the 3,000 who perished are buried here at Woodlawn National Cemetery.
Fortunately, the sexton of the cemetery, John W. Jones, an escaped slave, kept a meticulous record of each Confederate burial. When the federal government authorized marble headstones for these soldiers, it was possible to inscribe them with the soldier’s name, company regiment, and grave number. Therefore, the pointed headstones above each Confederate grave include valuable information identifying each soldier.
John W. Jones Museum
The John W. Jones Museum chronicles the life of an amazing American. John W. Jones was a slave in Virginia who escaped to Elmira. He worked as an Underground Railroad Station Master and assisted about 800 slaves to freedom in the north. He also supervised the dignified burial of 3,000 Confederate soldiers who died in the Elmira Prison. This small but impressive museum and statue of Jones shine a light on this remarkable person and his accomplishments. The photo below shows some escape routes used by slaves to leave the south to Elmira and points north.
Hill Top Inn in Elmira
Since 1933, the magnificent Hill Top Inn has served the people of Elmira. A Chemung County landmark, the restaurant features spectacular views of the Chemung Valley. In fact, the site of the Hill Top Inn is near the site on the same hill where Mark Twain wrote many of his classics. It is often referred to as, “The view that inspired Mark Twain.”
The food is as spectacular as the view. I had some of the best seafood I’ve ever tasted. My mouth waters when I think of the amazing Baked Stuffed Haddock topped with a shrimp and scallop stuffing, and finished with a lemon Beurre-Blanc. One of our group ordered the Slow-Roasted Prime Rib, USDA Choice Prime Rib, slow-roasted overnight for 16 hours, served au jus. She said it was delicious. Note the Prime Rib special is good on Saturday nights.
The extensive menu includes a wide choice of salads, seafood, steaks, burgers, and sides. For dessert, at the suggestion of our waiter, we shared the Bread Pudding Bites. This popular bread pudding served in bite-sized pieces with vanilla ice cream, bourbon sauce, and whipped cream was amazing. With the beautiful view, outstanding food, friendly service, and classy ambience, dinner at the Hill Top Inn is a special experience.
Hampton Inn in Horseheads
After our wonderful time in Chemung County, we laid our heads on the soft pillows of the Hampton Inn. Just off I-86 in the scenic Finger Lakes region, this newer hotel is just seven minutes from the Elmira–Corning Airport. Within walking distance are shops, restaurants, and movies at the Arnot Mall. The Hampton Inn is also a 12-minute drive from the National Soaring Museum and Mark Twain Golf Course. The Hampton Inn was perfect for our night’s stay in Elmira.
Chemung County Invites You Today
Come to New York’s beautiful Chemung Valley in the wonderful Finger Lakes.
Thanks to the folks at Chemung Tourism for hosting us.
Read more about special places in the Finger Lakes: Steuben County (Corning Glass), Schuyler County (Watkins Glen State Park), Yates County (Fox Run Vineyards), and Livingston County (Letchworth State Park).
